Backup camera where to drill

[5150mike]

I am Installing an Haloview MC7108 backup camera, I removed the teardrop light today, Not sure where I need to drill, Does anyone know how far from the light I can drop down and be safe?

I removed the teardrop marker lights by putting on some of the rubber gloves I use when dumping my black tank, so I could get a grip and PULLED AND ROCKED, AND PULLED AND ROCKED and it finally came loose, the photo shows the black tape holding it down



https://www.amazon.com/Haloview-Digi.../dp/B07GKXPKRS

[ROBERT CROSS]

I didn't drill....my rule, drill no unnecessary holes in the skin. 👍

I brought the power wire down & around the rain gutter. Under the weatherstrip, thru the opening for the lift lever and into a lighted switch next to the credenza between the beds.

The camera is secured with high strength velcro.

Bob
🇺🇸

[5150mike]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

I didn't drill....my rule, drill no unnecessary holes in the skin. [emoji106]

I brought the power wire down & around the rain gutter. Under the weatherstrip, thru the opening for the lift lever and into a lighted switch next to the credenza between the beds.

The camera is secured with high strength velcro.

Bob
[emoji631]

I am thinking about doing the same, no holes but get my power from the middle teardrop, and use vhb tape on my camera bracket. I really do NOT want to drill any holes

[ROBERT CROSS]

I went the switched route because I didn't want to have the clearance lights on all the time.🤓

Bob
🇺🇸

[rogerdog1]

Well, I installed mine about 6 inches below the light. If you use a coat hanger you can probe below the light and see if there are any obstructions, and also use it to fish your wire from the light wiring to the camera. Drilling a hole didn’t bother me.

[Mollysdad]

Just to show an option, I mounted mine INSIDE the rear window.
Drilled a hole dead center on the cabinet, inserted a threaded insert made for 1/4" x 20 and the rest were Ram parts.
Yes, I had to cut a hole in the screen, but looking out the back seems to work fine. (and no holes in the skin.)
I get power from one of the USB ports through a USB to cigar lighter adapter. (Since my camera only draws 150 mw. there's plenty of juice.)I intended this to be a temporary solution to see where to put a 12v. outlet, but it works so well I just kept it.

[ghanesdvm]

I did pretty much what you are planning to do on a 25' FC. After removing the clearance light lens (yes, the tape is tough and you will also notice two small clips that hold the lens to the base), you need to remove the base by removing the two screws. I only found insulation when I probed under the skin and chose a spot on center about 6-8" around the curve of the top to place the camera. Drilled one 3/8" hole to fish the wire. Place a rubber grommet in the hole to protect the wires. Seal the hole with silicone or adhesive. I mounted the camera bracket using double sided Gorilla tape and so far so good. You then need to cut the wires going to the light, get the correct "hot" and "ground" and wire your camera power into the circuit using solder and shrink tubing, remount the light base, use the same Gorilla tape to hold the lens, and snap it together. Running lights do have to be on to activate camera but having lights on at all times is thought to be more safe. Good luck.

[5150mike]

Originally Posted by ghanesdvm

I did pretty much what you are planning to do on a 25' FC. After removing the clearance light lens (yes, the tape is tough and you will also notice two small clips that hold the lens to the base), you need to remove the base by removing the two screws. I only found insulation when I probed under the skin and chose a spot on center about 6-8" around the curve of the top to place the camera. Drilled one 3/8" hole to fish the wire. Place a rubber grommet in the hole to protect the wires. Seal the hole with silicone or adhesive. I mounted the camera bracket using double sided Gorilla tape and so far so good. You then need to cut the wires going to the light, get the correct "hot" and "ground" and wire your camera power into the circuit using solder and shrink tubing, remount the light base, use the same Gorilla tape to hold the lens, and snap it together. Running lights do have to be on to activate camera but having lights on at all times is thought to be more safe. Good luck.

Exactly what I did, going to give it a try this weekend, Thank you to everyone for the Help

[LowKeyDude]

Hi

I just finished to install a WiFi 12V backup camera using velcro and powering it with a 12V cigarette lighter adapter on my Basecamp
It works fine and I paid less than 100 usd for everything
I hope you can find it useful
Franco

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, Like my good friend East Coast Bob, I used 3M two sided tape for many things on my trailer. I don't like drilling especially considering that I had to relocate two items on my trailer. One of those items was my back up camera.