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Old 04-21-2015, 12:09 PM   #21
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Was the SeeLevel panel a direct swap out of the Micropulse panel? You are using the existing wires from the Micropulse system?

So you were able to mount the SeeLevel sensor to the water tank through an access hole from inside the trailer? Did you have to remove the fill hose from the water tank for more room?

Got any photos to share?

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Old 04-22-2015, 05:43 AM   #22
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Hi folks. Working on Airstreams is like building a ship in a bottle. There are a lot of tight areas needing work.

My old 86 Limited developed a leak in the fresh water system; just before my planned trip of course. I had the access panel off the tank cover as the water was dripping out of it. I discovered the leak from an old poly butyl tee that had rubbed itself thin against the frame rail. I made a temporary repair.

On my trailer, there is not a way I can see where I could stick a See Level sender circuit on the side of my fresh water tank without dropping the tank cover.

For what's it's worth to your project.

David
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:02 AM   #23
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Ok, pretty much done with the install, with one glitch. The voltmeter on the display unit read 17.2V upon initial plugin, while the TriMetric and my DVOM said 13.4V. Garnet tech support told me how to reset it to a baseline 13.0V from which it should start reading....nope....reads 13.0V all the time, whether I am at 12.5V (with converter unplugged) or 14.2V (when converter is plugged back in). Think I have a bad display unit. We're supposed to have more conversation today.

Anyway...ship in a bottle is RIGHT, David. Yes, Kelvin, I was able to install the fresh sensor through the cutout in the floor in the closet. That one was actually easier than the black and gray. I used a RotoZip to cut a 10" X 16" access hole in the pan. I made my life more difficult by making the hole as small as possible. I still have to cut some Reflectix for the area, fashion my replacement hatch panel, and button it up.

I'll get some photos this morning and post them.
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:13 AM   #24
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David, maybe some pic exchanges could help. I had plenty of room on the tank side to stick 7.5" (of the original 12" sensor) directly above the drain fitting on the FW tank. I actually like it there as I still have a bit of buffer when the gauge says 0% left. I still have 8 gallons left (by measurement) when it hits zero. That's enough to finish the dishes, finish a shower. My system sucks air with one gallon left in the tank, so I have 7 usable gallons at 0%.

I also think I have one of those units where the gray vent may stick down into the tanks too far. I was disappointed when I saw water starting to fill the shower neck at 92% full. But, as I tilted the trailer to give me more room to work under the rear, the water disappeared and as I added more, the gauge eventually showed 100% when the shower drain started to fill. I wonder how it will behave when I am using it normally, instead of running all the faucets at once.
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Old 04-22-2015, 08:26 AM   #25
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I did the conversion and really like the See Level system. Very easy once you find a place to stick on the sensor on each tank. See

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...-a-129739.html

George
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Old 04-22-2015, 09:00 AM   #26
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Here are some pics:

Panel

Click image for larger version

Name:	SeeLevel panel.jpg
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Size:	253.9 KB
ID:	236825

Gray Tank

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Name:	SeeLevel gray.jpg
Views:	236
Size:	190.7 KB
ID:	236826

Black tank

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Name:	SeeLevel Black.jpg
Views:	213
Size:	163.7 KB
ID:	236827

Access hole

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Name:	Blkgry access.jpg
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Size:	175.3 KB
ID:	236828
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Old 04-22-2015, 09:47 AM   #27
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In the last photo showing the access are you waste tank covers sheet metal? Maybe just the lighting but it doesn't look like metal. Did you center the cut over where the dump valve shafts stick out though the waste tank cover?

What is the white pipe at the top of the photo? Is it the freshwater drain pipe?

It looks like you ran new wire from the sensors. Did they connect to the existing wires from the sensor area?

Is that a custom frame around the monitor panel? Is the SeeLevel panel smaller than the Micropulse?

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 04-22-2015, 11:16 AM   #28
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Kelvin,

Yes galvanized, and a lot thicker material than I thought...tough stuff.

I used Crispy's pic in post #9 as a guide for the cut, but still got into the black dump valve (flange only...no damage to function) with the rotozip....smelled the unique PVC odor and stopped.

In the bottom pic??? the thing you think is a pipe is my gray valve pull handle rod. Is that what you are looking at?

I used 2 of the four wires in each of the existing telephone wires that were there. Sensors come with the blue and black leads on them. I butt connected them to the telephone wires.

The panel is smaller than the Micropulse. I found a brushed stainless looking two gang home light switch plate and cut it with a Dremmel to fit. I kinda screwed it up a bit and didn't get the panel exactly centered. May have to fix that later.
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Old 04-22-2015, 01:56 PM   #29
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Wouldn't be easier if Airstream had just created an access panel from the factory so owners could service their waste tank valves and Micropulse sensors.

Is there not a way to adjust the depth of the cut of the Rotozip tool? I don't have one nor ever used one.

Kelvin
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:00 PM   #30
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Yes, I had it set for just enough to protrude maybe a millimeter beyond the thickness of the metal. Had to set a bit deeper, due to waves in the metal. The black valve flange is resting on the pan floor, so I got into it just a little bit. It's a big flange. No foul.

If I'd have been 1/4" forward, I'd have missed it, but you are working blind.

RotoZip is a great tool....right in between a real saw and a Dremmel.
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:31 PM   #31
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Looking at the photo showing the black waste tank, it appears there is no space between the tank and the galvanized pan. Were you able to avoid scoring the waste tank when cutting the access hole?

Can you tell if the waste tanks are supported internally or does the galvanized pan support the tanks? I'm trying to imagine how the factory mounts the tanks during manufacturing. Probably have the chassis upside down and mount the tanks.

Using a brushed stainless light switch cover is a great idea for the monitor.

Kelvin
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:39 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Looking at the photo showing the black waste tank, it appears there is no space between the tank and the galvanized pan. Were you able to avoid scoring the waste tank when cutting the access hole?

Can you tell if the waste tanks are supported internally or does the galvanized pan support the tanks? I'm trying to imagine how the factory mounts the tanks during manufacturing. Probably have the chassis upside down and mount the tanks.

Using a brushed stainless light switch cover is a great idea for the monitor.

Kelvin
The pic is deceptive. The tanks sit on about 1/4" of styrofoam. So, whatever cutting tool you use, stay shallow. And I was very careful to mark out those kind of areas for a "no screw area" for the cover I made out of Galvanized.

No straps that I could see anywhere. Indeed, they lay the tanks in while the frame is upside down and install the pans, then flip it right side up.
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Old 04-27-2015, 07:00 AM   #33
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You did a nice job on the installation. I'm glad you were able to use the existing wires which made this job much easier.

Does the micropulse system use a separate phone line for each sensor?

I was thinking that you could get a ball park measurement on the proximity of the tank valves by probing through the slot in the side of the tank cover.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:26 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Here are some pics:

Panel

Attachment 236825

Gray Tank

Attachment 236826

Black tank

Attachment 236827

Access hole

Attachment 236828
Can you tell looking in through your cut out which is the black and which is the grey? My release handles only say "Main" and "Auxiliary".
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:34 AM   #35
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Yes, main is black and aux 8s gray. It's obvious through the cutout as you can see the valves and handle rods. My Classic is front=gray, and rear = black
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Old 01-23-2016, 05:43 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Yes, main is black and aux 8s gray. It's obvious through the cutout as you can see the valves and handle rods. My Classic is front=gray, and rear = black
Oops, backward :
Front is black and rear is gray.
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Old 02-11-2016, 06:51 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Oops, backward :
Front is black and rear is gray.
I finished my install today. I used a pneumatic nibbler to cut the openings in the belly pan. The head of the nibbler just moved any wires away instead of cutting them. I should have used a grinder to smooth the edges. The backs of my hands have many cuts and scrapes from reaching up into the holes.
Your descriptions and photos helped immensely.
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Old 02-11-2016, 06:57 PM   #38
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I'm glad. That's what it's all about.
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