1966 Caravel Electric questions.

[LaurieB]

I took more my 1966 Caravel to Airstream to have a new a/c installed. One has never been installed before. They gave me a crazy high price of over $4000 in labor to do it. I went out yesterday and talked to the tech and have a little better understanding of what is going on. So here are a few questions i have.
The instruction sheet from Airstream says 60" from the 1st rib is where the wires for the a/c have been run by the factory. When you measure back 60 inches it butts you almost at the start of the rear vent. So essentially you would lose the use of the rear vent due to the overhang of the a/c.
On the forward part of the square for the rear vent is electrical wires. He says one is 12v and one is 110. they make a connection there and run on to the water pump and electrical outlets. He says if he hooks up to the 12v wire that when i use shore power it will fry the Fantastic fan. That makes no sense to me. If you can not connect to those wires with a 12v fan why would they be there?
They think the original Univolt is bad. I was planning to replace it anyway.
I have my electrician coming to look at the camper. Airstream is more than happy to let him do what needs to be done with the electrical. What setup do you suggest? My univolt is currently in the compartment where you store the shore power cord. Then on the inside streetside a foot away the battery is located under the seat. Then in the opposite direction wires run through the wall to the breaker box.
There is a set of 12v and 110 wires next to the breaker box not connected to anything and I assume they are the wires that are maybe the wires that hopefully are in the ceiling for the A/C.
My inside skins are in really good shape and they are fearful when removed they won't stay that way. They said you can no longer get the original skins. trying to avoid that.
My end game is to have an electrical system that can run the Fantastic Fan, The penguin 2 A/C unit, have the ability to add solar, and have a monitoring system so I know what battery bower I have and a simple way or automatic way to switch from shorepower to battery or battery to shore.
Thanks for any advice and I am set on this a/c unit.
I have some pictures but can not figure out how to attach them.

[Belegedhel]

I would install the AC in the middle of the roof. If you have to "go fishing" to find the factory run wires and then add an extension, then so be it.

What the tech told you about the 12 V wires "frying the fan when on shore power" makes no sense.

Yes, your original univolt needs to be replaced, whether it works or not.

I'm not sure I understand the discussion about the inside skins. If you have wires approximately where they are needed, I don't see why they are talking about pulling off interior skins. Besides, removal and reinstallation of the skins is not rocket science. Are they painted, or coated with vinyl? If painted, then yes, you are going to notice that they have been removed.

good luck!

[LaurieB]

Any suggestions on what to replace it with?

Originally Posted by Belegedhel

I would install the AC in the middle of the roof. If you have to "go fishing" to find the factory run wires and then add an extension, then so be it.

What the tech told you about the 12 V wires "frying the fan when on shore power" makes no sense.

Yes, your original univolt needs to be replaced, whether it works or not.

I'm not sure I understand the discussion about the inside skins. If you have wires approximately where they are needed, I don't see why they are talking about pulling off interior skins. Besides, removal and reinstallation of the skins is not rocket science. Are they painted, or coated with vinyl? If painted, then yes, you are going to notice that they have been removed.

good luck!

[Belegedhel]

Get in contact with bestconverter.com. Give them a call and see if you can speak to Randy. Since you are planning on adding solar at some point, etc., they can steer you in the direction of a system that will meet all your needs.

[DremStremer]

I would do as Belegedhel suggested and install the air conditioner more forward to avoid interference with the rear vent. It's likely the Airstream factory left enough slack in the preinstalled wires to give some leeway in AC placement. When I removed my interior skin I found a coil of wire to be used for the AC. There was also thermostat wiring and a drain line for the AC that ran down the wall and out the bottom.

[LaurieB]

What measurements from the front rib and the vent did you find those wires? Thanks for the picture!

Originally Posted by DremStremer

I would do as Belegedhel suggested and install the air conditioner more forward to avoid interference with the rear vent. It's likely the Airstream factory left enough slack in the preinstalled wires to give some leeway in AC placement. When I removed my interior skin I found a coil of wire to be used for the AC. There was also thermostat wiring and a drain line for the AC that ran down the wall and out the bottom.

[LaurieB]

I also have another question. What sort of reinforcements did you do between the roof and inside. Did you connect it to the ribs? Thanks again

Originally Posted by DremStremer

I would do as Belegedhel suggested and install the air conditioner more forward to avoid interference with the rear vent. It's likely the Airstream factory left enough slack in the preinstalled wires to give some leeway in AC placement. When I removed my interior skin I found a coil of wire to be used for the AC. There was also thermostat wiring and a drain line for the AC that ran down the wall and out the bottom.

[Belegedhel]

I am aware that some folks basically build an internal frame and attach it to other structure, etc.. But, at the time I did my AC, the prevailing wisdom was that the roof is plenty strong enough to support the AC (that is why you can walk around up there, and not worry about only stepping on the rivet lines).

With this in mind, my only reinforcement was to slip a piece of wood, roughly 1.5" thick, and 1.5" wide to the front and to the rear of the AC hole so that when you tighten down the bolts holding the AC in place, you have something to clamp down on (rather than just empty air between the inner and outer skins. I cut those pieces of wood so that they matched the curve of the shell also.

good luck!

[DremStremer]

"What measurements from the front rib and the vent did you find those wires? Thanks for the picture!"

My Airstream has 3 vents, front, middle, and rear. The wires were located between the rear and middle vents. I didn't take measurements and my trailer is longer so the measurement probably wouldn't be the same for you. I'm in the process of restoring my Airstream and have no plans to add an air conditioner.

[LaurieB]

Thanks! Are you redoing a Caravel or something different.

Originally Posted by DremStremer

"What measurements from the front rib and the vent did you find those wires? Thanks for the picture!"

My Airstream has 3 vents, front, middle, and rear. The wires were located between the rear and middle vents. I didn't take measurements and my trailer is longer so the measurement probably wouldn't be the same for you. I'm in the process of restoring my Airstream and have no plans to add an air conditioner.

[DremStremer]

Originally Posted by LaurieB

Thanks! Are you redoing a Caravel or something different.

I am restoring my 1970 Safari 23' Special Land Yacht. It never had an air conditioner. However, I was pleased to discover that the wiring was in place if I decide to add ac at a later time. Living in the North East air conditioning is not a priority for me. Our summers are short and I prefer open windows and fresh air.