Winterize, Pink Stuff, RV Antifreeze, Drain and Flush

[masseyfarm]

Much information is available in the different threads on winterizing, but this is specific to the Clipper and possibly others.

There are two pex lines that run behind the fridge and I assumed wrongly they were hot and cold water lines.
One is the cold water run to the ice maker option.
The other PEX line is the drain for the fridge defrost tray, and it runs and drains at the rear wheel well.

To drain the optional ice maker line requires opening the drain valve which is located just below the HOT water tank, (the lowest valve) and goes though the floor and again drains into the rear wheelwell.

Push some pink stuff thru with these valves open. Come spring, run fresh water thru and then close the drains.

Note: The ice maker option PEX line is exposed to the elements via the outside fridge access door. If it is not drained or flushed with RV antifreeze, and your unit is in severe weather, you may have a problem.
Dave

[lewster]

Dave,

Running the antifreeze thru the lines will not winterize your ice maker...... just the lines! You have to actually get a load of pink ice cubes to be sure that the mechanism has been winterized. I replace at least a half dozen frozen ice makers every season because the owners fail to run the unit to get pink ice.

[Jammer]

I thought the whole point of the pink stuff is that it isn't supposed to freeze.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by Jammer

I thought the whole point of the pink stuff is that it isn't supposed to freeze.

RIGHT!

But you have to 'try' to make ice or the ice maker will still have water in it and will freeze.

[masseyfarm]

Where is the accumulator tank on your motorhome?



On my Clipper I assume it is buried in the rear dead space between the fresh water and the grey water tank, although I have never been in there to confirm.
I was thinking of upgrading to a 2 gal size, but all the trouble to access it has me second guessing that thought.

Water System Accessories - SHURflo



I have today prepped the Clipper for the coming freezing temperatures, as I don't see us needing it again until the new year.
I did not do a pink flush on the pressure side at this time, but only used compressed air.
The only area I am concerned about is the filter at the pump as I doubt the compressed air would clear it of fresh water.

Guess I will remove the access panel and clean the filter, and I might also be able to see the accumulator tank from that position.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/where-in-the-accummulator-tank-is-it-28012.html#post299528

I pulled the Anode Rod that I had installed in the HW tank just this spring, and was surprised at the amount of consumption that had occurred to the rod. Guess they do serve a purpose, and I will order a new one for the spring.
Dave

[masseyfarm]

This Ice Maker option line can be a problem in the hot weather also.
Because the pex line runs up behind the refrigerator, and is located in the same corner as the propane flue, it is exposed to more heat than ideal.
In the high temperatures of summer, and the fridge working overtime to try to cool the contents, there is just too much heat in this area for this pex line when it is charged with water.

Where it is located on the Clipper, the only way to repair this line is to cut it at a location accessed under the fridge and pull that length of pex back thru the fridge mount floor. It can then be repaired and guided back up the same hole or remounted to another location. If you remount it in the same hole, protect it from the same damage by installing a piece of aluminum pipe over it to deflect the heat.

Dave

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

There are two pex lines that run behind the fridge and I assumed wrongly they were hot and cold water lines.
One is the cold water run to the ice maker option.
The other PEX line is the drain for the fridge defrost tray, and it runs and drains at the rear wheel well.

To drain the optional ice maker line requires opening the drain valve which is located just below the HOT water tank, (the lowest valve) and goes though the floor and again drains into the rear wheelwell.

Push some pink stuff thru with these valves open. Come spring, run fresh water thru and then close the drains.

Note: The ice maker option PEX line is exposed to the elements via the outside fridge access door. If it is not drained or flushed with RV antifreeze, and your unit is in severe weather, you may have a problem.
Dave

[masseyfarm]

In post #5 I mentioned --
"I pulled the Anode Rod that I had installed in the HW tank just this spring, and was surprised at the amount of consumption that had occurred to the rod. Guess they do serve a purpose, and I will order a new one for the spring."

Well -- this spring I reinstalled that anode rod temporarily for a trip to the south Island.

Time slipped by and I had forgotten about this little job.

Today, I pulled it and it was near end of life. I flushed the tank, and have installed the OEM Nylon Plug.

The anode rod was doing its job, but it is dangerous to leave it in an Atwood Tank, as the dissimilar metals will react, and seize the plug into the Aluminium threads if not pulled out at least twice a year and re-lubed.

My GW tells me I am going to forget to service it and I am now at the point that maybe I should simplify some of this maintenance in case I am unable to do it. (So many things need to be done that I can't sleep at night.)

I am going to locate a sacrificial zinc at some other easy access location (thinking of the Kwikee step frame)

Since I have repaired the alternator mis-wire puzzle, I am hopeful that some of the electrolysis is under control.

Dave

[Goal15]

Dave

i was hoping you weren't having to winterize in BC in July... talk about the effects of global wamring....

Dana

[masseyfarm]

Dana: We actually got blistering weather here this month. I don't think I can stand it much longer.

On Monday we went to the Alberni Valley just to test the air conditioning system on the Clipper. It got real, real hot there at 90* (32.1C).

Not much glogal warming here.

Dave
http://www.climate.weatheroffice.gc....12&timeframe=2

[masseyfarm]

Winter is fast approaching and its time to review how your going to protect your motorhome.

A question was posted earlier on the trailer thread about blowing out your "black tank rinse line".

I am not sure the trailers have the same style installation as the motorhomes, but this applies to the Class A units.

If you go the -
http://www.airstream.com/files/libra...653fd83d5d.pdf

and on section G page 22, there is a diagram of your black tank rinse schematic.

I would think, on most instances, this would completely drain and not need any winter prep. It has a check valve and a vacuum breaker installed at the high point in the line, and unless you installed the cap on the inlet to hold the water in on the inlet side, it should be OK. Maybe a short blast of air would ensure no water is left between the check valve and the vacuum breaker. (DO NOT PRESSURIZE THIS TANK)

This system is within the heated cargo bays so it is not an issue if traveling or while you are using the unit.

On the Clipper, the big concern is the fresh city water service bay which is located rear of the axle, and only receives minimal heat from the engine bay.

For winter, blow this city water line/hose reel out by opening the drain at the forward sewer bay. Then use your fresh water tank, which is heated, while traveling.

On my Clipper, I have a small 12V Automotive heater in this bay for emergency situations, that I can plug into the 12V power plug located in that bay. I would generally only have to use this if we got caught in the high country in a winter storm, road closure from accident, or some other unusual short term situation.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

Winter Plumbing Prep. on the CLIPPER

Time to clean out the plumbing in the Clipper for the winter. The following procedure is an attempt to avoid using the pink anti-freeze in the fresh water system to save time on the spring flush.

Open all 5 low point drains. One in the city water compartment, and three in the sewer compartment and one on the pex or PB line to the ice maker located in the same area as the HWT valves.

Open the relief valve on the top of the HWT, and all faucets to allow air into the system. This includes in/out shower hand spray wands which must be laid down to drain. Also the taps for the clothes washer, which are located on the Clipper behind the kitchen counter forward extension.

If you did this yesterday you will find, when you remove the drain on the HWT today, that the tank is now completely dry.

You now have a possibility of water laying in some low spots in the plumbing system and especially in your city hose reel.

Leave all taps and faucets' and plugs and drains open at this point.

Take your air hose, equipped with the hand nozzle, and loosely air the city water hose until the water is moved out of the low point drain located in this bay. Apply more air pressure as the water turns to vapor at this drain.

Close this low point drain in the city water bay, and now loosely blow out the rest of the system. When there is no resistance from water in the system, you can apply more air pressure. ( I never have the air hose connected to the system but only hold the air nozzle to the city water filler hose end and use a rag or paper towel to seal and create a higher pressure.)

You now have most of the water moved out. Now open your hot water faucets and repeat, and then your cold water faucets. (If you have help, open one at at time. If not, get some exercise and do it yourself. )

Remove your fresh water filter located at the pump, clean and re-install. The pump is located in the upper area of the sewer bay behind the upper panel with the black water flush mount.

When finished the fresh water blow out, close all taps and etc. to avoid an unpleasant surprise next season when you hook up the water.

Shutoff, drain and remove the drinking water filter located under the kitchen sink and drain and seal it in a ziplock bag for reuse next season if it is recent.

The fresh water system should now be protected so no pink anti-freeze flush should be required.

The waste water system in next.

Assuming you dumped and flushed the tanks at the end of your last trip, you should be able to do this without too much problem.

I just used a pail and drained the remaining gallon or two from the black and grey water tanks and dumped this on my compost pile. While you are here, use your silicone spray and lubricate the waste valve stems by working them in and out. Close the valves, but leave the waste cap off for the winter.

Use your air hose again to give a short blow on the black water tank flush line. Water should not collect at the check valve but why not be sure. I have a 8' hose connected to my black tank flush all the time so water does remain in my hose that needs to be drained. (the purpose of this short hose is to avoid flooding my sewer bay-- I can use a water thief if the facility where I am dumping has a damaged or no threaded fitting on the flush hose.)

Now to finish off, take your four gallons of pink anti-freeze, and split two gallons into the sinks and bath drains P traps, and the other two gallons into the toilet. (You have completely drained the black and grey tanks so you need two full gallons of anti-freeze in each to keep the bottom of the black tank wet and waste valves wet.)

Job done.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

Its that time again. Freezing nighttime temps forecast for the rest of this week on the ISLAND.

The Clipper is now ready for the winter. See above for winterize information for the Clipper.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

I will add one caution note here on winterizing the CLIPPER for the northern climates.

The CLIPPER, and possibly other models, have the bath/shower drain located over the rear wheel and there is a shield/duct in the upper wheelwell to allow the drain to access the grey tank located in the rear of the heated main bay. There is very limited room for any insulation within this shield and it is actually outside the perimeter of the main basement bay which is heated. It is also below the bathroom floor level so it is a cold sump.
Because this area is basically exposed to the elements it is imperative that the bath drain ptrap be protected with RV antifreeze (pink stuff) even if you have some limited heat on in the unit.

Dave