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Old 02-11-2017, 08:55 PM   #21
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1995 36' Land Yacht Bus
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 24
Dave,
I spent a little bit of time today trying to figure out a little more about the mystery. Below is what I found. Some makes sense and a little bit doesn't.

The Airstream assigned serial number
1LMGTEW30SJ801593

I had previously looked at the Airstream decoder but thank you again for sending. I agree the normal first three digits should have been 1CT; however, I dug in a little deeper and looked up the SAE code for 1LM and it came up Laotto Metal Fabrication Incor in Laotta Indiana. Laotta is about 100 miles from Jackson Center, Ohio where they are supposedly all made. I am guessing the unit might have been a really early unit and that it had most of the fabrication done on behalf of Airstream. I really don't know but the unit has all the exact trimmings as most all the others. The one thing that didn't make any sense was the 8th position digit which is a 3 and that supposedly is a triple axle vehicle. Well, it only has two axles and I don't see anything where it would have been a triple or have a tag axle. When I compare it to most all the pictures other people provide, it is identical.

However, if you look at the brochure picture which you attached and I have an original, a difference I see is the size of the window over the dinette area. Mine and several I've seen have a larger/wider window than the one shown in the brochure. I would be curious what size you or anyone that reads this forum has - wider with jalousy windows at the bottom or an almost square window like the brochure.

As for the serial number above, I went through and computed the check digit (9th digit) and it comes out exactly correct with all the other digits/letters involved.

I put in the VIN number in the VIN database and it shows the body to be an Oshkosh which is consistent with everything else (including the steering wheel hub - ha).

I feel a little bad in gettign rid of the original decals/stripes/etc that is traditional on these but the paint on the top had oxidized so bad that it was ruinning the paint below. We finally made the decision to transform it to something more practical and modern. It is sort of fun to have a unit that has NO recognizable logos, etc.

Thanks again for all your posts. I have read many of them in trying to learn how things operate and that mine is "normal".

As for name superoma, you might be able to see the Superman license plates (available in Ohio) and the word OMA means grandma in my wife's native Germany. We put the unit in her name and she wanted to have it say super grandma so it has the superman logo and then UPROMA to go with it. That is the story regarding my login name.

Steve
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Old 02-12-2017, 10:52 AM   #22
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1996 35' Land Yacht Widebody
council grove , Kansas
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Hello Dave and Superoma,

The new converter seems to have solved my problems. The batteries now seem to stay up better, and they are now charging from the 110 plug in, and generator. However, I don.t believe my solar controller is working though, and I haven't installed a new inverter.
Do either of you have recommendations on the size and type of solar controller
and inverter.
BTW, Superoma, yours looks great.
Thanks again for all your info.
Merrill
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Old 02-13-2017, 08:53 AM   #23
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Solar: What size of solar panel is installed? Do you plan to increase this solar capacity? These answers will determine what controller you need.

You can check the solar panel voltage with a DVM, on the input side of the controller. If this is successful, proceed to----
Check the output side of the controller which should show battery voltage.
If you are convinced that the controller is not working, then disconnect the solar panel input, then the battery side connections. There may be a reset on the controller (depending on brand?). Reset if possible.

Then connect the "THE BATTERY CONNECTIONS FIRST!" and then the solar panel connections, and test with the DVM again for results.

Dave
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Old 02-13-2017, 08:18 PM   #24
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1995 36' Land Yacht Bus
Columbus , Ohio
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Merrill,

It is great to hear the new converter worked. I agree with Dave in the process of testing. That is basically what I did also. I had acceptable results but had no confidence in whether I really felt the batteries were being charged as the legacy controller only had three lights and the box of spare parts that came with the rv included about three old controller boxes. It made me think the previous owner wasn't confident either.

I ended up buying on Amazon a Morningstar TS45 as my solar panels are either 130 or 140 watts. They put out about 19 to 20 volts as measured on the controller input side so the controller has some work to do. I also bought a Morningstar digital readout that swaps out the one on the TS45 just purchased. I can now see the voltage and amp hours being generated and the output voltage. There are also a few lights that easily show when the batteries are charging and when they are fully charged.

Now on all batteries both coach and engine i put on knife switches bought on eBay so I quickly disconnect all power when not in use so no drain. Just be sure you are careful with the door locks to the battery bay so you don't lock the doors when open, disconnect the knife switches, then let the bay door slam shut. If you do, then you are dependent upon the key opening the lock or else you are in an unpleasant situation.

Do you have the remote keyless entry working? I had to get a retro kit from the Mfg and wire it in. It wasn't too tough but it is not completely flawless. Adequate, a little frustrating, but better than not having it.

I have no suggestion on an inverter other than the legacy freedom inverter. I don't know how hard it would be to add at this point.

Feel free to ask a ton of questions. We've been there!!!

Steve
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Old 02-14-2017, 10:45 AM   #25
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Note: If you have a battery disconnect switch, make sure your solar feed bypasses that and goes direct to the batteries.

All the new digital controllers seem to require battery power first before connection to the solar panels to operate properly. This problem (sometimes) seems to correct itself after the solar panels are inactive overnight.

Monitor your controller regularly to make sure it is working as designed. (My observations are my own experience only, on equipment I have installed on my CLIPPER. I am not a commercial installer.)

Dave
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Old 02-15-2017, 12:09 PM   #26
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1996 35' Land Yacht Widebody
council grove , Kansas
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Hello Dave and Steve,

In checking the solar controller, it is a Pace 30 Amp, it shows 20V from the panels,
and 13 v from the output. It has a light that flashes fast if the equalizer switch is
off, slow, if the equalizer switch is on, which indicates charging. This seems to be working right. But like you Steve, I'm not sure the panels are actually charging the batteries.
I guess there is no way to know, short of starting with a dead battery and charging
with the panels for a few a couple of days?

Merrill
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:42 PM   #27
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Merrill,
I don't recall the brand that came with it but the fact pattern was basically the same as yours. I could measure about 19 or 20v going in and around 13.5 to 14v coming out. To be honest, it could have been working fine but I just didn't know for sure. On mine, over the microwave is a control panel that shows the "voltage" in some bar form for the engine and coach batteries. I use/used that as sort of a global independent measure of whether the batteries were being charged. It rarely ever shows the coach batteries completely charged but sometimes it gets all the way there.

If yours has a similar "bars of progress-ha" read out, I would try to get a feel as to whether the existing arrangement is keeping the coach batteries charged. If I had it to do over, I might have trusted the original arrangement more; however, because of the box of spare parts contained at least two replaced little orange control boxes, I just didn't have a lot of confidence at the moment.

Steve
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:33 AM   #28
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I had the same frustration with the "bars of progress-ha" read out for the batteries, and installed digital volt meter displays on the lower dash, drivers side. One for the chassis circuit, one for the house circuit, and one for the third battery bank that I installed for the electronics up front. All three circuits can be linked together, or separated as wanted, by the use of solenoids and controlled from the dash.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...tml#post989785

On the floor you can see the panel I installed for the momentary switches, and also the foot control for the driving lamps.
Dave
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"LOVE and LOSS, are two of the greatest emotions one can experience. -- I went to school to learn about "WHAT GOES UP MUST COME DOWN" but I had to live my life to learn the lesson of: 'WITH LOVE THERE WILL BE SORROW'."
David Stewart. (after loosing my NAVIGATOR)
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Old 02-19-2017, 12:17 PM   #29
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1996 35' Land Yacht Widebody
council grove , Kansas
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Inverter Location

Hello Dave,

Looks like quite a set-up.

In looking around the outside of mine, I can't seem to locate the input connection for the TV cable. Might you know where it is?
thanks,
Merrill
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Old 02-19-2017, 12:26 PM   #30
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Mine is in the same compartment as the Heart Inverter, and your city water hookup. The cable box is on the rear sidwall below the inverter, and has a flip up door on it.

Looks like yours is in the same place by your picture? Bottom right side.


Dave
__________________
"LOVE and LOSS, are two of the greatest emotions one can experience. -- I went to school to learn about "WHAT GOES UP MUST COME DOWN" but I had to live my life to learn the lesson of: 'WITH LOVE THERE WILL BE SORROW'."
David Stewart. (after loosing my NAVIGATOR)
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Old 02-20-2017, 08:48 PM   #31
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1995 36' Land Yacht Bus
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Dave,
I immediately laughed when I saw the picture of the dash! I also put a cage around the rear camera to block unwanted light so I could actually see the screen.

By the way p, what are the three orange things on the lower dash and also looks like a rocker switch. Everything else looks identical to mine. Just curious.

Steve
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Old 02-20-2017, 10:20 PM   #32
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Those are three digital voltage meters for the three battery banks. That is a dual rocker switch that controls additional overhead map lights, (mounted on each side of the sunvisors, on drivers and navigators side) and the external LED light for the step and gathering area.
If you look to the left of the dash, you will see ---- my night map light mounted in the center of my pen holder, two 12Vdc power plugs for the GPS and Pharos unit behind the talking clock, and below that the switch for the cockpit night lighting in blue, and since that photo was taken there are now three momentary buttons below that switch for solenoid activation. Below that I have an aluminium assembly that covers that area that was left unfunished from OEM, that the front storage door release assembly is mounted to, and also a bottle holder, another 12v power plug, and the top serves as another bottle holder. On these long road trips, I drink lots of water.





Dave
__________________
"LOVE and LOSS, are two of the greatest emotions one can experience. -- I went to school to learn about "WHAT GOES UP MUST COME DOWN" but I had to live my life to learn the lesson of: 'WITH LOVE THERE WILL BE SORROW'."
David Stewart. (after loosing my NAVIGATOR)
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Old 02-24-2017, 08:15 PM   #33
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1995 36' Land Yacht Bus
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Dave,
I love it!!! You have really added some excellent enhancements that simply don't exist in typical units.

I do have a question about what path/route/etc you used to run wires to/from the back. I have partially used the area behind the couch,kitchen, bathroom, and into the area behind the shower. The previous owner(a relative) ran a few wires underneath and somewhat exposed. Neither paths are absolutely perfect but wondered what standard path you've used.

I have also decided to change out the font light bar and headlight shroud. Mine is badly yellowed and I plan to install LED headlights. I have 14 gauge stainless that I intend to use instead of the plastic translucent fixtures. Have you ever considered a refurb of that part of the Clipper? Any advice will be appreciated.

Steve
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Old 02-25-2017, 11:02 AM   #34
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""""
Quote:
Originally Posted by superoma View Post
Dave,
I love it!!! You have really added some excellent enhancements that simply don't exist in typical units. """""
Quote:
Originally Posted by superoma View Post
Thanks, I get lots of enjoyment and satisfaction while tinkering on the CLIPPER at home base. There is always lots to do.

"""I do have a question about what path/route/etc you used to run wires to/from the back. I have partially used the area behind the couch,kitchen, bathroom, and into the area behind the shower. The previous owner(a relative) ran a few wires underneath and somewhat exposed. Neither paths are absolutely perfect but wondered what standard path you've used.""""

I did run my wires down the boxed in corridor behind the couch, through under the kitchen, to under the shower, down into the service compartment there, and beyond to the engine and battery area. It takes some time but is doable.

"""""I have also decided to change out the font light bar and headlight shroud. Mine is badly yellowed and I plan to install LED headlights. I have 14 gauge stainless that I intend to use instead of the plastic translucent fixtures. Have you ever considered a refurb of that part of the Clipper? Any advice will be appreciated. Steve
"""""""

The front light bar is CLIPPER unique and I would not want to scrap it if you can salvage it. The PLEXI should polish up? I have a few stone chips and cracks in mine from our ALASKA HIGHWAY and high YUKON trip in 2008. (lost the d/s windshield on that trip also) I have seen one early production unit that the light bar had been removed on, and replaced with stainless, if I remember?
I have updated my internal light bar castings, with reflective silver tape, (amber reflective tape in the signals), to enhance the visual display. I also altered the center light bar so that the outside lights are now signal lamps also.
I also came across a used piece of plexi that I did a bit of heating and bending, and have mounted it over the original light bar, for protection from more stone damage. That was a couple years ago, and that needs to be polished again now.
The headlights I am happy with as you can replace them for $5 or so, and they are available anywhere.
For the dark rainy nights on the road, I have changed the driving lamps to 35W spot lamps (tried 100W aircraft landing lamps but they did not last long, were illegal as hell, and were expensive to replace,) that will shine down the road when there is light traffic. These are operated from a foot switch, which was a lot more convenient than the rocker OEM switch.



The lower lights you see here are not the "DRIVING LAMPS" but are the LED's that are mounted in the lower light bar. Each side has 3 outer yellow LED that are clearance lamps and also flash with the signals, and inboard of these are 4 LED white, used as daytime running lamps. (Daytime running lamps are mandatory in Canada)

The front mounted Class III hitch serves the bike rack mount, which drops forward for access to the front service door.

Dave
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"LOVE and LOSS, are two of the greatest emotions one can experience. -- I went to school to learn about "WHAT GOES UP MUST COME DOWN" but I had to live my life to learn the lesson of: 'WITH LOVE THERE WILL BE SORROW'."
David Stewart. (after loosing my NAVIGATOR)
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Old 04-09-2017, 06:28 PM   #35
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1996 35' Land Yacht Widebody
council grove , Kansas
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Hello Dave,
I can't seem to find the oil dipstick on my Cummings motor-
Could you help.?
Makes me feel like a dipstick myself to have to ask.
Merrill
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Old 04-10-2017, 11:07 AM   #36
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Standing at the rear of Airstream, lift access to back. Engine oil and transmission dip sticks are in upper right corner. Oil fill also pulls out there. There might be a rubber dust flap over the area as there is one on mine.

I have never had to add oil between service intervals. These C series are generally oil tight. Your transmission oil level can also be checked electronically from your Allison dash control.

Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by merrillv View Post
Hello Dave,
I can't seem to find the oil dipstick on my Cummings motor-
Could you help.?
Makes me feel like a dipstick myself to have to ask.
Merrill
__________________
"LOVE and LOSS, are two of the greatest emotions one can experience. -- I went to school to learn about "WHAT GOES UP MUST COME DOWN" but I had to live my life to learn the lesson of: 'WITH LOVE THERE WILL BE SORROW'."
David Stewart. (after loosing my NAVIGATOR)
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Old 04-16-2017, 04:12 PM   #37
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1995 36' Land Yacht Bus
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Well, I don't have pictures but you inspired me to clean up the plexiglass covers over the lights and the turn signals. I ended up using 3M machine polish and went over them about 10 times or so. They turned out good. I put 4 LED bar light strips in the center light bar and replaced the low and high beam lights with Maxxima LED headlights. Also, I replaced the turn signals with 4 sets each of 20 light LED fixtures in each one or 80 LED lights in each turn signal. The voltage to the headlights was only around 9.8 to 10.5 and several of us have tried to find the source of the leak - unsuccessfully. So, I used a relay for each of the low and high beam lights with a direct battery current of a full 12.8 to 13.5volts. The LED lights were NOT cheap but they are sure bright. I was getting tired of driving at night with some very substandard lighting.

I have now been looking at an upgrade to the fog lamps and was amused by your discussion. For now, I have decided to not upgrade to aircraft landing lights (ha) or anything else for now.

I have been having some issues with the vacuum heat/cooling switches and the pump runs almost constantly. I found some leaks and fixed them but I am afraid to dig into the dash from either the inside or from the front "hood". Have you ever opened up that can of worms and, if so, how did you do it, and what did you find?

Otherwise, I think we are ready to go for the season.
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Old 04-17-2017, 03:29 PM   #38
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Vacuum leaks on the Heater control.

There is only one vacuum lines to access from the outside, that being to the Hot Water feed 'shut off' going into the heater and visible from the front access. Also the main one from the pump. All other lines run behind/below the dash.

The vacuum lines are delicate and they may have been pinched, but:
LOOK up behind the dash control and you will see all the vacuum lines coming off there. MAKE SURE they are all pushed on there tight. This is where they are most likely to be disturbed.

If you think the distribution box, (your switch control) is leaking, I would take the unit out and try to seal it with a bit of caulking? But it is more likely that the lines are loose or cracked, where they push on to that manifold on the back of the distribution box.

I have a thread on the subject I will try to find to link here.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...ml#post1169912




The vacuum lines are to the far right of this distribution box.
Check first to make sure the clip is holding the assembly on securely.

Dave
__________________
"LOVE and LOSS, are two of the greatest emotions one can experience. -- I went to school to learn about "WHAT GOES UP MUST COME DOWN" but I had to live my life to learn the lesson of: 'WITH LOVE THERE WILL BE SORROW'."
David Stewart. (after loosing my NAVIGATOR)
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Old 05-03-2017, 08:20 PM   #39
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1995 36' Land Yacht Bus
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Dave,
I apologize fir my delayed response. Your advice and sharing of info re vacuum lines is very helpful!

Steve
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Old 05-23-2017, 07:18 AM   #40
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1996 35' Land Yacht Widebody
council grove , Kansas
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Hello Dave,
Thanks so much for all the help you've given me in finding my way around this beast.
I think I just about have everything fixed now, but I still need to install an inverter. I am ready to do this, and a have purchased an 8000 watt inverter- 15000 watts peak.
I'm wondering, do I connect the 110 side to the wires inside the box shown behind the converter in the above picture?
Thanks again,
Merrill
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