Clipper, Alternator, Delco Remy, Land Yacht

[masseyfarm]

Tonight I have completed the update on the #3 battery bank to set it for full automatic integration with the other battery/solar systems on the Clipper. The #3 bank now includes a SurePower 1315-200 Separator, and a Cole Hersee 24200BX solenoid that when activated allows charge over 12.2V to travel either way between battery bank #3 and the Chassis System #1, and if wanted also the House #2 system. These systems can also be separated, by activating momentary switches located on the extreme left side of forward dash. This will allow the Clipper to be left unattended on Solar Power for extended periods and charge all batteries when there is adaquate solar and prevent any single system from discharge below 12.2V if there is a failure to one of the three systems.



Below is the edited detail of the Clipper as it is currently equipped .

CLIPPER. (Cummins CT300)
I have an upgraded Delco SI 22 160A alternator, charging 2 X SDS 31950 group 31 wet cell starting batteries, bank #1, and have removed the OEM ISOLATOR because of the voltage drop.
I have installed a SurePower 1315-200 SEPARATOR.(replaces the isolator) and allows charging both ways over 13.2V.
I have installed a cockpit controlled solenoid between the House batteries and the ISOLATOR so I can manually control the combined or separate charge.
I have also installed a cockpit controlled solenoid as a shut off on the chassis batteries to allow the unit to be left unattended for extended periods.

I have 4 X 6V T105's for the house bank #2.
I have one Trojan deep cycle wet cell 12V up front for the electronics. This has a charge line from the house battery circuit and another tie to the chassis circuit, which both have manual switches in the cockpit that I control as needed.
Xantrex Freedom Inverter Charger 2000 Watt 12 VDC 3 stage charger for the house #2 battery bank. (will charge all if switches and solenoid activated. AUX diesel 7000W slightly used.
All system are monitored in the cockpit with DIGITAL VOLT GAUGES.
SOLAR: 40W polycrystalline, charge controller, manual switch (to feed chassis or house depending on the need) Can be left on either, depending on solenoid setting between battery bank #1 or #2.
253W polycrystalline panels (4) run thru a MMPT controller to the #2 battery bank.
1 X 40W polycrystalline panels (no charge controller) to the #3 battery up front. Powers a 1000W Eliminator inverter for the electronics.
I have now installed another SurePower Separator and remote solenoid on the #3 battery bank to allow manual or automatic systems integration. These are controlled manually from the drivers positon with two push momentary switches located on the extreme left side of forward dash.

My experience with this setup is:
While camping, if the sun is shinning next day, I can boondocks overnight and leave the house batteries on all the SOLAR and they will completely charge. (in this case I have the solenoid between 1&2 bank connected so that any solar over capacity goes to the chassis battery. If not using the #3 inverter I will tie this panel in also to the house.

When traveling during the sunny day after boom docking, I will separate the #1, #2, #3 banks. This allows SOLAR to charge the #2 and #3 and the Delco to run the chassis load of DRL, AC, fans, etc.
In theory I should get better fuel mileage as the alternator is not running the # 2 or #3 if not necessary.
NOTE: THE SOLAR WILL NOT PRODUCE IF YOU ARE CHARGING FROM THE ALTERNATOR AT THE SAME TIME AS THE CONTROLLER WILL SIGNAL THE BATTERIES ARE AT CAPACITY.
ALWAYS DOCUMENT UPGRADES SO THAT FUTURE SERVICE WILL BE POSSIBLE WITHOUT UNNECESSARY EXPLORATION COST.


Dave

[masseyfarm]

I have a picture of the Clipper dash location of the momentary push-button switches for the solenoid control of the 3 battery banks. The buttons needed to be out of the way so not to be accidentally/inadvertently activated when not wanted. They are protected electrically when parked with a security sequence required, so that my grand-daughter can't change them when I have that power nap. The buttons are high quality, flush and require full depression (approx. 1/4") to activate so accidental contact should never be a problem.
With the digital volt gauges on the dash, it is easy to monitor/control what the requirements are for each of the 3 battery banks.
Dave

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

The #3 bank now includes a SurePower 1315-200 Separator, and a Cole Hersee 24200BX solenoid that when activated allows charge over 13.2V to travel either way between battery bank #3 and the Chassis System #1, and if wanted also the House #2 system. These systems can also be separated, by activating momentary switches located on the extreme left side of forward dash. This will allow the Clipper to be left unattended on Solar Power for extended periods and charge all batteries when there is adequate solar and prevent any single system from discharge below 12.7V if there is a failure to one of the three systems.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

This works on my Clipper, but could be done on any unit that has been modified to separate the battery charging systems.

On my Clipper I have installed Cole Hersee BX 24200 remote operated solenoids to separate/isolate all 3 battery banks depending on want and needs.

In the #1 Chassis 40W solar circuit I have installed a simple 3 position switch that allows solar charge to the chassis when parked, and when the engine is running, the ability to switch the solar to the house circuit.

Because of the high output of the alternator, no solar controller will stay in connection mode, but will read the high alternator voltage at the battery and shut down your solar panel. (why drive all day in the sun and not get free solar energy?)

With my SurePower 1315-200 Separators installed on all 3 battery banks, and controlled as needed with the solenoids, I can direct all my solar (386W) to the house battery circuit while traveling.

This switch is located on the side of the media cabinet in the BR and the solar is wired, complete with ground, to the chassis batteries. (this allows solar charge when the chassis batteries are disconnected, via the solenoid, for short of long term storage.)

If I position the switch (for traveling) to charge the House #2 circuit, the circuit ties into the OEM power plug installed with #12 wire to the house fuse box located at the foot of the bed. The ground return is still thru the chassis battery common ground, which is active even with the #1 and #2 systems disconnected.

If maintenance is required on the battery systems, I can position the switch to the center position to disconnect this solar panel for either circuit.

The new chassis powered power plug, on #10 wire was installed to allow easy monitoring with my portable digital voltage meter, and also to have power for my hand held spot light that is stored at the emergency exit window.

This link also has information on the other solar systems on the Clipper.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...ply-77097.html

Dave

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, you have quite the set-up with your solar panels. I may be late, but I noticed that you mounted some panels on top of your A/C shroud. My A/C shroud, same as your's, was brittle too. I ordered a new shroud from "Icon Direct" and it has a lifetime warranty. They claim that you will never have to buy another one. The plastic is thinner and of a more durable material. And the price was the same as the factory shroud.

[masseyfarm]

Well today I have accomplished something good!

Over the lifetime of my ownership of the Clipper I have always had more drain on the batteries, when parked, than what I would consider normal.

I would spend free time trying to find this draw and eventually installed switches and disconnects to combat the problem.

Understand, the engine bay is not easily accessible on a daily basis when on the road, or I may have discovered this a lot earlier in my ownership term.

With all the solar, and other measures I have taken, I was able to live with the situation. However, I had extra time this week and traced every wire and active circuit on the Clipper. Here is what I found.

The 2 wire molex plug that supplies the SI22, 3 wire alternator with the ignition excite and the battery voltage signal was actually wired wrong.

When I activated the solenoid that connects the chassis circuit, and felt
the alternator after a couple hours, the alternator was warm to the touch.
I checked with the test light the plug wires for power, and after removing the alternator, I was able to duplicate the result on the bench.
Research of the Delco wiring diagrams led me to suspect a wire mixup. I pulled back the spiral protectant rap and exposed the joint butt connectors. As you can see in the picture, I believe these are an original Freighliner factory connections.
The Molex plug #10 red wire should be the battery voltage signal, and the #14 white wire should be the ignition excite wire.
These were reversed at the in line connections, with the #10 wire connected to the #14 wire and visa versa.

My chassis was one of the first produced after Freightler took over Oshkosh and I suspect the individual doing this job was not trained for what he was doing.

I have now tested the system and have no, or very very little battery draw now and I will leave the batteries connected for the next week or so to monitor them.

Another problem solved.

Dave

[DaveFL]

With all the up wattage did you increase the belts to drive the alternator? Original would have only required one v belt while the 130 recommends two. Don't know how serpentine belts compare.

[masseyfarm]

Dave: On the Cummins CT300 the serpentine belt runs the alternator with an 8 groove pulley and spring loaded tensioner.


This is a specific pulley on the Delco Remy for this Cummins application. (Cummins PN 3918275) which has a little more length to the butting face than a standard pulley. A standard 8 groove pulley will not line up with the water pump pulley and will cause the belt to chirp as it tries to seat in the pulley. I found this out the hard way, by purchasing a pulley off the shelf for my rebuild spare. When I put it on to test it for comparison against the new Delco, I thought I had a bird cage in the back.

All this trouble/cost listed in the posts above because some one did not have the brains to join two similar gauge wires together or take time to look at the wiring schematic before doing the job.

It all works as it should now.

Dave

Originally Posted by DaveFL

Don't know how serpentine belts compare.

[masseyfarm]

When we first got the Clipper we were overjoyed (to say the least) with the lack of sound or noise, while traveling at turnpike speeds. Even quieter than most autos or pickups, as the Clipper is a diesel pusher.

That said, you then tend to turn on the music, CB, Weather radio, the GPS, etc., and I still try to listen to MGW.


But the problem was, a couple times, I found myself driving down the road, in the sun, with my 4way flashers on. This did not give me that feel-good feeling that the Clipper experience should.


There are many retail options to overcome the quiet flashers, with some options costing upwards to $60.00.


On the Clipper to solve this problem I went to Radio Shack and sourced a couple low voltage buzzers that retail for under $3.00. I pulled the turn signal and 4 way flashers and soldered the buzzers onto the flasher prongs.


I will never again be caught with a flasher going accidentally.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VVaqAyqv8g

Another thing one should remember to do when you have some down time, is to search the location of your flashers. Once they quit working, they are difficult to find because you can't hear them. And of course, you should always carry a spare, as they usually fail right after you have hooked up your trailer and added that additional load to the circuit.




This item applies specifically to the Clipper which came with the UNIDEN CP1050 mobile phone option installed. The power unit of the Uniden was mounted in the center console with Velcro and a half tube of contact cement. I found this out only after removing the center console and then the Sony system power amplifier to try to access the mounting screws. This is not necessary, as you just need a pry bar to release the Uniden unit. I have left the antenna and lead, but removed the other wiring to clean the compartment up.


Dave

[masseyfarm]

On my Clipper #1 and #2 battery banks I had replaced the isolator in early 2009 with a SURE POWER 1315-200 Separator. This allows charging both ways if one system exceeds 13.2 Volts from any charging source including solar.


In late 2011 this Separator occasionally would not activate when manually switched on from the cockpit through the Cole Hersee 24200BX solenoid.
I at first thought the 24200 solenoid was the problem and installed an audible alarm so that I would know power was transmitted from the cockpit foot switch.

When the delayed activation persisted, I realized that the problem was with the Separator itself.

I removed, inspected, and remounted the unit and ground with no improvement.

The Separator would usually connect over time (couple hours) if left connected to both battery banks so I lived with it as life's other tasks were more demanding.

Today I have installed a new 1315-200 Separator and the system works like it was originally designed to.

I have contacted Cooper (Sure Power) to see if they want this unit back for testing as they did have a recall on a later production run.

I will update as time passes.

Dave
NOTE: THE SOLAR WILL NOT PRODUCE IF YOU ARE CHARGING FROM THE ALTERNATOR AT THE SAME TIME AS THE CONTROLLER WILL SIGNAL THE BATTERIES ARE AT CAPACITY.
ALWAYS DOCUMENT UPGRADES SO THAT FUTURE SERVICE WILL BE POSSIBLE WITHOUT UNNECESSARY EXPLORATION COST.

[masseyfarm]

I contacted Sure Power and they have refused my offer of exchanging the defective unit so that they can detect what may be the problem with the dual charge activation.
"The unit is not within the 1 year warranty range. You could contact the distributor that you originally purchased the unit from and see what they say, but again is was built in 2008. .
sorry.. "


I also would like to correct my previous post- " I have contacted Cooper (Sure Power) to see if they want this unit back for testing as they did have a recall on a later production run.

“The 200 amp Battery separators were never a part of the recall at all! just in the designated date range of the 100 amp version as you have seen in the letter of 2011."


Just proves Sure Power did not go to the same school of business as FANTASTIC.


Dave

[QUOTE=masseyfarm;1249471]I have contacted Cooper (Sure Power) to see if they want this unit back for testing as they did have a recall on a later production run.
Dave

[masseyfarm]

The AIRSTREAM CLIPPER was OEM equipped with a Sure Power 12012A ISOLATOR to charge and protect the OEM installed two battery banks from discharge.


I had, as explained in previous posts, a few years ago bypassed this ISOLATOR and installed Sure Power 1315-200 SEPARATORS to do the similar task after installing a third battery bank. At that time I did not remove the ISOLATOR, but just left it as insurance incase it was needed for some reason in the future.


Well --- the future is here.


On my stick house I have a small emergency solar system with good sun access, with a 7 amp controller, that I can tie the CLIPPER into when parked at home. Recently I acquired and installed an additional 160W solar panel to increase the solar capture in the short winter season days. This panel location has a much better sun access than the solar panels mounted flat on the roof of the CLIPPER parked in the shade of the trees. Now that the longer days and good weather has arrived I thought I might be able to use the original ISOLATOR on the CLIPPER as a type of controller for this new panel until I get a new 30 amp or larger controller.. (I have yet to purchase a larger solar controller as I am still doing research on the adjustable style I want. This solar panel is wired independent of the existing system)


One of my requirements was to be able to equalize batteries with a prolonged high voltage charge. My current shop charger will not do this so why not use the solar? (my old professional grade charger burnt up on my last equalizer attempt on a tractor battery that had been stored all winter and was at end of life.)


So I have wired a short #8 AWG harness/plug with 30 A fuses to the ISOLATOR and tied this to both #1 and #2 battery banks so that the 160W panel can feed both the twin GP31 start batteries, and the four TROJAN T105 CLIPPER house batteries.


With all the wiring in the battery bay, I chose to wire this harness to each side of the COMBINER SOLENOID which was located within 14" of the ISOLATOR.


The ISOLATOR does not allow back feed so this serves the same purpose as a charge controller would for this. (this 160W panel does have diodes installed OEM, but some of the low priced panels have no diodes and you must have a controller to restrict the back feed at night.)


My #3 battery bank can also be tied in manually or thru the 2nd Sure Power 1325-200 Separator installed at the front of the CLIPPER.


Dave

NOTE: THE SOLAR WILL NOT PRODUCE IF YOU ARE CHARGING FROM THE ALTERNATOR AT THE SAME TIME AS THE CONTROLLER WILL SIGNAL THE BATTERIES ARE AT CAPACITY.
ALWAYS DOCUMENT UPGRADES SO THAT FUTURE SERVICE WILL BE POSSIBLE WITHOUT UNNECESSARY EXPLORATION COST.

[masseyfarm]

Today I had a chance to monitor how the ISOLATOR handled the 160Watt solar panel. Everything worked as planned but it was not clear and sunny all day to be able to give it a real test.

I took advantage of the cloudy evening to pull my chassis batteries, test, top off the acid, clean all connections, and re-install with Dielectric grease on all connections. Everything looks good on the GP31 batteries dated summer of 2011. When I get a good clear day, I will equalize these with the new solar panel to test that theory. (I have a separate harness for each battery bank so that they can be solar charged separately if wanted.)



Below is a picture of the ISOLATOR wired to both sides of the house disconnect solenoid thru 30 AMP MAXI weather proof 8AWG fuse assemblies.


I had to leave enough slack in the assemble to be able to reach in and change the fuses if ever needed.

Just to clarify - this setup is only going to be used when parked with access to a remote solar panel, whether portable or fixed. It will have no application or will not need any attention while traveling.

Dave



NOTE: THE SOLAR WILL NOT PRODUCE IF YOU ARE CHARGING FROM THE ALTERNATOR AT THE SAME TIME, AS THE SOLAR CONTROLLER WILL RECEIVE THE SIGNAL THAT THE BATTERIES ARE AT CAPACITY.
ALWAYS DOCUMENT UPGRADES SO THAT FUTURE SERVICE WILL BE POSSIBLE WITHOUT UNNECESSARY EXPLORATION COST.[/QUOTE]

[masseyfarm]

As mentioned in an earlier post, I had installed a three way switch in my chassis dedicated 40W Solar panel harness so that, while traveling on the road, I could direct the Solar production to the house batteries. I have also made changes to the other Solar runs so that they could be isolated to any single or combination of the 3 battery banks. As noted above and on other posts, if you have a charge controller in the line, once the alternator is producing, the charge controller will shut your Solar panel off as the controller receives the 'charged' signal.

This past year, for extended family reasons, my CLIPPER has spent a lot of time at home hooked up to shore power which defeats the purpose of the 'House' Solar Systems.

I have now again changed the OEM 2 X 53 Watt Solar panels so that I have an option of directing that production to the chassis batteries if on shore power. As posted previously, I can separate all three battery banks, and there is no real need for the Heart Inverter/Charger working to charge the other two battery banks if they are not being used.

In the winter months at my home base, I don't get much sun so I need to use all the Solar production so I can to try to recover some of my $ invested.

I also have now installed a new 3 way switch,( TOGGLE SWITCH HD #765034 50AMP) at the controller on this 2 x 53 Watt harness. This allows me to,
1: set in normal position,
2:shut the panel production down for any maintenance,
3: and the other side allows me to bypass the controller for maximum production in the off season. These panels are already equipped with diodes so no back feed will happen.

By bypassing the controller, I can get that last extra .5 to 1 volt of the system and also allows a little bit of equalizing on few those bright sunny days in the off season here on the west coast.

The toggle switch makes it easy rather than pulling the harness apart to accomplish the same task.

Dave