Toad experience with 33' LY

[Taxman]

The search engine is my FRiend (I've read just abut every post re: "toading" with a LY), but I have not espied a post specific to a 33' LY.

I am presently having my trailer hitch reinforced and would appreciate any thoughts FRom LY owners re: their "toading" experiences.

Classic owners: Please feel FRee to jump in with your experiences, particularly those having tag axles. We share, as you know, the same chassis and powerplant.

Thanks in advance.

[str8strm]

We tow a VW thing because we love it ( and it is within our weight restrictions ), but with retirement and more travel looming we may opt for a mini cooper convertible to get an upgrade on safety and convenience features. And still provide room for our 2 bassets to hang out.

[Taxman]

Thanks for the response, str8strm.

I'll look into a Mini. I like them, anyway, and we were advised to get a convertible toad so we can see more of what we are looking at without straining so much.

Have you strengthened your trailer hitch?

Do you use a tow dolly or tow four down?

[str8strm]

Originally Posted by Taxman

Thanks for the response, str8strm.

I'll look into a Mini. I like them, anyway, and we were advised to get a convertible toad so we can see more of what we are looking at without straining so much.

Have you strengthened your trailer hitch?

Do you use a tow dolly or tow four down?

We tow without a trailer now. I am anticipating reinforcing the hitch so that we can pull a trailer or dolly soon. I would like to have the ability to pick up the odd vehicle here and there around the country. Ron

[Taxman]

Ron,

I intend to tow with a dolly, although the consensus on several RV boards is that towing 4 down is the only way to tow. I'm going to rent a dolly for my first tow and see how it goes.

Robfike had Dan's Hitches in Elkhart, IN beef his hitch to 10,000 lbs -- mine will be only reinforced to 5,000, as I will not be towing anything that heavy.

Safe Travels,

FRank

[cooperhawk]

Our hitch is re-inforced and we use a Demco tow dolly with surge brakes. I have towed 94 Taurus, 95 Exploere, 05 VW Jedda, 74 Corvette, 17 fot Fibre Glass boat.

The reason I use a dolly is that I can load up any of the vehicles that I want with out having to modify them. The surge brakes require no adjustments and work very well, and I do not have to spend the time tuning a Brake Buddy. I have watched friends using tow bars get set up to go and I can do it in half the time.

[gunner]

When you towed the 74 vette did you remove the drive shaft or had the rear on the tow dolly?

[Taxman]

Cooperhawk,

Thanks. Gonna try a dolly with surge brakes.

FReegards,

FRank

[Paul Dobbin]

Every experienced RV'er has 2 cents worth on this subject, here's mine.
We've been doing this for 18 years and have tried them all. They each
have advantages as described in the other posts. But this is what you need to know when you begin.
About any vehicle can tow another, but doing it safe and smart are more improtant than just getting it rolling. Stopping, steering and ease of use are important too.
#1. Gas powered motorhomes generally use up most of their power just
moving themselves around. (So pay attention to #2)
#2. The heavier the load, the slower you climb hills and the sooner you need
to replace the brakes. (Remember you have to merge at speed at the
top of the on ramps)
#3. Tow dollies are the cheapest way, and you can carry most anything.
(They cost about $750 and can have brakes) But you will not like the
time and dirt to get loaded and unloaded. (storage problem too)
#4. A car trailer is another way you can take anything that's not specially
equiped to be towed. (Another storage issue with trailer and loading an
unloading is a pain too)
#5. Most States require brakes on what's being towed (if over 3000 lbs,
some states less)
#6. Towing 4 down with a tow bar that stays on the RV is the quickest
for uncoupling (and you will want to do this often) My favorite is the
aluminum Blue Ox.
#7. A trailer is the only method that you can back up while still hooked to
the RV. REMEMBER THIS
#8. Which ever you choose, you'll always be looking for a better way.
When we got our first RV we bought an $1100 1966 VW and a $50 tow bar and had a ball, no brakes required anywhere at 1700 lbs, a fun toad to drive and everybody everywhere talked to us about the bug. We still have the VW and tow it sometimes. (but now it's a $5000 car). We also use a trailer for our really old cars and have an aluminum Blue Ox tow bar for our 2006 Saturn Vue. (one of us wanted A/C & automatic).
If I had to go back to one car to tow and one method it would be the old VW. In other words the lightest stick shift car I coud find, and flat tow it.

[Taxman]

Paul,

Thanks for the thoughtful response. Your points are certainly well worth considering.

Safe Travels,

FRank

[normandgrace]

i have a 2005 33' l/y and i tow a 2004 scion x/b. i have only towed it a few times, and i did not even know it was there it towed so effortlessly. my longest trip was from south florida to st augustine to attend my daughters college graduation. it was very easy and smooth to tow. i did not notice any difference in temperatures while towing, and my milage was slightly reduced. the 33 can tow easily

[cooperhawk]

Originally Posted by gunner

When you towed the 74 vette did you remove the drive shaft or had the rear on the tow dolly?

Uh, four speed in nuetral.

[cooperhawk]

Originally Posted by Paul Dobbin

#3. Tow dollies are the cheapest way, and you can carry most anything.
(They cost about $750 and can have brakes) But you will not like the
time and dirt to get loaded and unloaded. (storage problem too)

I doubt you will find a tow dolly with brakes that cheap. A good one will cost over a thousand at least. You can find all kinds without surge brakes cheaper, but stay away from them.
Our new Jedda has tow hooks built into the front bumper for the safety chains and I have no need to get under the car and get dirty.
I can load the car and be on my way in fifteen minutes.

Lastly, everybody has an opinion. Get what you want!

[garry]

Big decision since there is real expense involved I worried over it for months.

I tow a Jeep Cherokee Sport at around 3200# 4 down using SOB 31ft MH with 454 engine on P-30 chassis.

I finally decided on the tow bar after talking to others at campgrounds.

Tow bar & base plates were around $700 brakes for the Jeep (required in most states) was around $1000 plus the installation.

I am happy with our decision and suggest you talk to and “observe” others as what it takes to hook-up and un-hook then make a decision.



Garry

[blkmagikca]

I first used a tow dolly to tow our 2005 VW Passat behind the '94LY Diesel pusher. I learned to dislike this for the following reasons:

1 - The rear of the car was lowered since the front is raised. Going over a speed bump at 2mph in a campground, the rear fenders touched the ground and caused the bumper to pull away. Cost to repair: almost $1,000.

2 - You cannot appreciate how wonderful it is to either get the car on or off the tow dolly in wet weather, especially since I had to pull out the ramps by getting down on my knees.

3 - Going into a rest area and finding out that the turning circle to get out is too tight - you can't back up with a tow dolly, and if you think removing the car is a hassle normally, wait until you try it when the whole rig is on a curve.

So I researched towing 4-down. I was also considering the option of using a car trailer, but that didn't address the issues of detching or removing the car in tight quarters. So the the 4-down option seemed best. However, I didn't like the idea of having the car brakes controlled electronically, as I knew from my trailer-towing days that adjusting electric brakes to match your load can be a hassle, and I didn't want the little Mazda 323 have it's brakes come on and lock while being hauled down the road behind almost 20,000 lbs of diesel pusher. So I opted for a set of tow bars with a surge brake system built into it. The ones I use are made by Night Shift Auto and are called Ready-Brake - here's their URL: RV Tow Bars and RV Surge Braking Systems for Car Towing - Night Shift Auto

Howard

[CarlGeo]

Taxman,
I am also preparing my 30ft LY for towing, and I have opted to go with a Honda CR-V to tow 4 down using a Roadmaster tow bar and an Even Brake unit. I am just now purchasing the parts and having them installed, but havent completed the process.
One thing I must do is reinforce the LY hitch. How did they reinforce yours? Did you replace the receiver or just have its attachment to the LY frame reinforced?
I will keep you appraised of my progress, and I will anxiously watch your progress also.

Regards
CarlGeo

[Paul Dobbin]

[quote=cooperhawk]I doubt you will find a tow dolly with brakes that cheap. I can load the car and be on my way in fifteen minutes.

You are correct, a dolly with brakes will cost more that $750 NEW, but most of us are USED RV buyers and can shop for good used dolly too.
When towing 4 wheels down with a real light car, all we need to do is put the
hitch on the ball and plug in the lights, 45 seconds. The advantage comes when we're tooling down the road and see something we want to stop for.
We get out, unplug the lights, take the hitch off the ball and use the saftey
chain to hold it up, and we're driving the Toad, 30 seconds.
When we use other methods, like a dolly, a trailer or heavier car with brakes, it's a bigger job. Consequently we don't stop as often! But with the light rig and no brake mechanism to unhook, we stop for garage sales, flea markets,
antique shops, used car lots, animals, tourist attractions and cute towns.
We are back road RV'ers, so finding a church or shopping center parking lot to unhook, makes seeing the side streets and real Americana much easier.
I know it's not for everybody, but if it gets to complicated, it can take the fun out of the adventure.
That's my 4 cents worth.

[gunworks]

We opted for the car hauler to take our Toyota minivan with us. It's not as easy to load, but I have it down to about ten minutes. I just drop the ramps, drive it on then tie it down to the built in hooks on the van. Two straps in back and two military cargo hooks in front which oppose each other. Ive taken it around the country and the van doesn't budge. Combined weight is just under 4000 lbs. I use a Tekonsha brake controller and breakaway box and it all works great. I have had to back it up a few times and only crunched the RV once (back up camera was on the fritz and I forgot the "turn the wheel the opposite of where you want the trailer to go". Oops! I'm happy with the system I'm using. Besides, you can't tow a Toyota minivan all four down. They recommend against it.

Hope everyone has a safe and fun New Year!

John

[gloran]

Taxman. I also have a 33 ft LY 1993. I took it to a shop that specialized in making hitches. They told me the stock hitch could easily tow 5000lb,and didn"t know why it only had a rating of 2000lb. I contacted AS factory they told me that was the pound rating from GM on their P30 chassis, it's frame is only rated to tow 2000 lb. and that is why the hitch is rated at 2000 lb.