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09-19-2011, 11:02 AM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1995 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Durham
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 7
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Replacing healiner in 1995 LY
I am starting the process of replacing the healiner in my 95 LY 35 pusher. I will be using a rigid PVC sheet instead of the foam back material. However, I am having trouble gaining access to all of screws for the cabinetry, and I was hoping to not have to remove the cabinets completely and instead use the rigidity of the new sheet vinyl to slide into place. Any thoughts? Also, I've not removed the housing of the roof AC that is inside of the coach and was hoping someone has insight. Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated. I am a newby and could use your collective expertise on this project. Thanks, Scott
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09-22-2011, 12:34 PM
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#2
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Landshark II
Currently Looking...
1992 31' Legacy 30
Decatur
, Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 24
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Replacing Headliner
What is wrong with the orginal headliner? Is it just stained or is it rotted?
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09-22-2011, 02:12 PM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member
1995 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Durham
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 7
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Original headliner foam backing deteriorated throughout with considerable shrinkage. Previous owner attempted re-gluing making a dreadful mess on 2 panels. When those panel were removed, some of the luan/wood layers came off as well. I have not found any rot, and any staining found has been from the attempted re-glue.
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09-23-2011, 05:31 AM
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#4
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Landshark II
Currently Looking...
1992 31' Legacy 30
Decatur
, Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 24
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Think about this for a min. If you remove the ceiling material (Cloth ?) Then remove any foam left on the wood. Any damaged wood can be repaired with body filler and sanded smooth. Then mask off all cabinets windows etc. Go to your local fabric store and pick up as much as you need ceiling material with a foam backing. Do some research on mastic spray or roll on. You will need to look for foam to wood. start in the front center (2 people) and work towards the back and sides with a small squeege. When you get to the point that the ceiling is not damaged stop and install a piece of wood or vinyl trim on the ceiling with glue and small screws painted to match the trim.. Hardest part is matching up the color of the ceiling material. This trims easy with a razor knife... I have done this process many times. Lot easier than removing all th cabinets.. Any questions just call 269 423 7747 ask for Doug...good luck
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09-25-2011, 12:44 PM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
1994 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Mechanocsburg
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5
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I have a 1994 35' pusher LandYacht and had significant roof leakages that caused the foam-backed headliner to separate on the entire coach. After completely stripping the roof and re-caulking, re-riveting, re-sealing and applying a liquid EPDM coating the leaks were fixed and I turned to the headliner. Like you, I quickly found that apparently the headliner (and wallpaper) is applied prior the the installation of any/all of the interior components...not just cabinets, but also walls, pocket doors, shower, etc. I also had damage to the plywood that the headliner is glued to. I tried re-gluing but the foam being deteriorated caused the contact cement not to work. The only practical way to "fix" the headliner I was able to come up with was to use wood (in my case oak stained to match the cabinetry) to fabricate a bunch of "support pieces to "hold-up" the existing headliner. I used strips around the perimeter that I screwed to the walls and cabinets. At the seams on the ceiling, where the vinyl strip is pressed into the seams of the plywood, I made a faux "beam". I used a 4" wide piece of 1/4 in oak plywood and made some strips that had a groove to overlap the plywood that were placed on each side. I drilled holes in the strips and screwed them into the ceiling (after repairing/replacing) any damaged plywood and used hole plugs to cover the screws. To help support the field of the headliner between the faux beams, I used some of those screws with the plastic cover and arranged them to form a nice pattern. I also had damage to virtually every plastic frame around the roof vents so I also made new wood frames the fit over the plastic ones. I must say that it was a lot of work (i.e., some advanced carpentry), but the result is actually quite nice and I like it better than the original effect. It has also held up very well to travel and use.
If you still want to use the rigid material you mentioned, I believe that you will end-up needing to cut them to fit around the cabinetry and, like me, fabricate some support strips to hold-up the edges. The screws with caps should do the trick for holding it to the curve of the roof. To help get a flat surface you will need to cut the vinyl seam strips where they meet the cabinets and pull the part out that is in the coach.
Good luck...it's a big job no matter what you do!
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09-26-2011, 07:12 PM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
1995 35' Land Yacht Diesel
Durham
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 7
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Thanks to you guys for your thoughts and insight. I am waiting for the rigid sheets to be shipped. Streamer94, I do believe that the trimming of material at and around the walls where both pocket doors are will have to be trimmed and not able to be slid under the roof and above the wall. But the cabinets will not have to be removed and the sheet will slide into place. Desikk, I'd like to give you a call sometime this week. I will be using the rigid sheet instead of the foam backed material and hope to have to not use any adhesive spray. Your experience and input is greatly appreciated.
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04-17-2013, 10:47 AM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member
Canal Flats
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 11
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We have a 1994 that has had minimal water damage....a couple of pieces of duct tape were found on the ceiling. BUT....bonus....duct tape now comes in that same ivory colour so you know what I'm going to do! Why didn't they think of that years ago?
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