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Old 09-06-2007, 02:09 PM   #1
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LY fiberglass side delamination

I recently noticed a bulge in the side just to the rear of the driver's door and right below the rear of the door gutter. Evidently the seal between the edge of the fiberglass panel and the door frame had opened up so the rain was able to seep behind the panel and swell the wood. I might need to remove the door frame to spring the lamination away from the wood to clean it out and bond it back. I would like to hear from anyone who has had this problem as well, even if in another part of the LY, and any additional workable solutions/ successes/ failures/ ideas. I think I can clamp it between a couple of smooth boards and epoxy it down, but also wonder what the best sealer will be around the door frame to keep it from happening again.
TIA, Frank
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Old 09-06-2007, 04:24 PM   #2
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Hi and welcome!

What fiberglass?
What model Airstream do you have?
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Old 09-06-2007, 04:33 PM   #3
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"rear of the driver's door"

Sounds like a Land Yacht MoHo - they're fiberglass.

Shari
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Old 09-06-2007, 04:52 PM   #4
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Land Yacht

It is a 2000 model Land Yacht. The sides I assume are fiberglass. Are they not?
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Old 09-06-2007, 05:30 PM   #5
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Sorry Santart...I think the confusion lies in the fact that a lot of vintage Airstream trailers were also called Land Yachts. I believe a 2000 Land Yacht is a fiberglass motorhome whereas a '50s - '70 Land Yacht was an all aluminum trailer and "Land Yacht" refered to a an options package much like the terms "Classic" & "Safari" do today.

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Old 09-06-2007, 06:54 PM   #6
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No Problem!

I know most of the members are trailer owners and there were Land Yacht TT's as well. But I thought posting on the "LandYacht/Legacy" forum would isolate my query. I feel even more alone now that AS has dropped their line of Class A's. But then, I was a lover of the aluminum trailers long before I bought the fiberglass MH, and with the problem I'm encountering at the present moment, might be making a switch in the near future.
Thanks, Frank
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Old 09-07-2007, 03:08 PM   #7
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I have a LY Motor Home
Also have delamination,
I took it to a local shop they said 1800.00 to fix it, then before they started work they said they would not touch it, seems they did not like the way AS rivited the top rail on, so now Im going to see if AS in Jackson can repair,
Im almost to the point of bolting a AirStream Emblem right thru the side !!!
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Old 09-07-2007, 04:59 PM   #8
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Don't do it!

It will just pop out somewhere else. Where exactly is it delam'ing? If you read the previous thread you'll see that AS charges 10K per side to relaminate. I did some research on the web and have a few ideas of how to tackle it myself.
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Old 09-07-2007, 05:55 PM   #9
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Well how about if I skin it with Wood Panels now that would be different,
anyway street side rear seems rear end cap and roof transition leaked
and street side under drivers window
both places are not bad, the 10 Grand per side is not possible for me, I just got a new rear diff for a bargain price of 7500, while in VA
I'm not about to spend another 10 grand
I've read some stuff also, Please keep me posted what you come up
Hey can you send pictures of your problem, my email is rob_arth_hod@yahoo.com

Regards
Rob
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Old 09-07-2007, 08:02 PM   #10
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Santart, the problem is with the lauon plywood underneath the fiberglas, when it gets wet it separates breaking the bond, so once you peel back the fiberglas the loose plywood has to be removed and bondo back in with fiberglas filler, then recontact cemented. Also, the leak may be coming from the roof gutter edge and not the door.
I have a 1993 33' Land Yacht and have repaired mine this way. It's been a few years, but when I checked with AS they said $3000.00 for the complete side, recently contacted them & they said they would no longer do it since they don't make the Class A any longer, but said they would look at it to see for sure.
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Old 09-18-2007, 07:36 PM   #11
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I was looking at my baby today,
at the rear of the street side the delamination is about 18 inches wide about half way down from the top to the middle, is this a real problem ?
I had the roof sealed at campersworld, they seem to think just leave it if it does not get worse dont bother ? Is this a good Idea ?
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Old 09-18-2007, 11:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstrv
I was looking at my baby today,
at the rear of the street side the delamination is about 18 inches wide about half way down from the top to the middle, is this a real problem ?
I had the roof sealed at campersworld, they seem to think just leave it if it does not get worse dont bother ? Is this a good Idea ?
I thought by leaving mine alone it would remain the same which was not so terribly bad. But with all the rain we experienced in Texas this summer (it has been in drought conditions for the past five years or so, but this year it has already doubled the years average) it began to swell enough to cause me concern. I have opened the section and allowed it to dry out successfully. My plan was to use a water catalyzed polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue) to refasten the laminate under clamp pressure. Problem was the substrate was rotted through in a few places necessitating the removal of a portion of the interior paneling to properly restore it.

I say if CW did the work on yours, try your best to hold them to warranty it. Otherwise, there might still be water entering someplace, and not necessarily directly above the problem area. It must be stopped and dried out. I see these tiny insects smaller than the point of a pin in the vicinity of dry rotted places and they are easy to see on the shiny fiberglass panels. They are living proof of ongoing dry rot (which is a misnomer since it is really wet rot). It is all repairable but not an easy task when the rot works its way indoors. I have interior panels to replace, and wall covering to match, before this yacht is land worthy again. I am already looking at the older aluminum MoHo's or a trailer to replace it with. I will probably never own a fiberglass RV again. Everything else about the LY has been easy to fix and relatively trouble free, but this is the most discouraging project I have undertaken on a seven year old rig. If I were to design or build an RV of any kind, I would never use this cheap Luan plywood as a component in the side lamination. There is such a thing as marine plywood if wood is needed at all. Dumb choice Thor! They should recall and repair all of their boo-boos! SORRY, JUST RANTING! Best wishes with yours.
Frank
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Old 09-19-2007, 02:13 PM   #13
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Frank,
Thanks for the info,
I do plan on getting it fixed I just want the best pan of action,
Let me know how the Gorilla Glue works
Rob
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Old 09-19-2007, 11:01 PM   #14
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Will Do!

Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstrv
Frank,
Thanks for the info,
I do plan on getting it fixed I just want the best pan of action,
Let me know how the Gorilla Glue works
Rob
I have an area on top rear curbside that is similar to what you describe. Although I can use clamps on the portion behind the door, that one will have to be compressed externally by using a jack or wedged two by four against a big tree. I will take photos of the entire process on both sides and post them. I'm still a few weeks away from having the time to work on it but the wheels are turning and I'll be back in touch as soon as I make some more progress. Want to have it all fixed up for the rallies coming up in Dec. and Jan.
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Old 09-21-2007, 06:58 PM   #15
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Opened a can of worms today!

Took a day off today and got started on the section behind the driver's door. The plywood was all buckled and rotted, and still wet, so I tackled the inside. Pulled the sofa and prodded the inside wall for soft spots. I marked off an area to start demolition. Removed about three square feet of wall board, insulation and all but the outside layer of exterior plywood which was well bonded to the FG. I was not planning a redecorating job this soon, but now it is imminent. I'm okay with that--kinda looking forward to it. I also plan to lose the carpet from the entry to the cockpit riser and maybe install cork flooring since that has always been a difficult area to keep clean. I took some photos and will post them when I'm not so pressed for time. Will keep posting as I make progress so stay tuned.
Frank
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Old 09-25-2007, 03:45 PM   #16
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thanks for the update
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:27 PM   #17
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I had a good look today,
For the rear looks like I can get to the "bulge" by going from the inside in the rear closet,so the interior can be fixed fairly easy with any type wall paper. Or even use cedar like the rear wall
For under the drivers window looks like the same however I might have to find some replacement wall paper between the drivers window and slide out so the question of the day is any Ideas of a source ?
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:15 PM   #18
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It gets worse before it gets better!

I ordered some SikaFlex 221 to reaseal the fiberglass to the frame. Found some pink polyurethane insulation at Home Depot which is 3/4" thick. Two layers contact cemented together will replace the soaked white styrofoam which is 1 1/2", perfectly. My holdup is the outside wall which was 1/4" luan plywood. Contact cememting the same thing will probably not be stout enough to get the bulge to lay flat and hold it that way. Might have to beef it up. Meanwhile I found the curbside between the entrance door and the passenger seat is also damaged so I'll be tearing that out as well. And to add to the fun, I have found some damage to the underlayment under the carpet behind the passenger seat after tearing out the carpet. Tomorrow I will try to find laminated wood flooring to match that of the kitchen and replace the carpet with that. Will leave carpet in the cockpit for now. As for the wall covering, I went to Sherwin Williams and looked at their myriad sample books for a replacement. Airstream lists the inside panels in the parts book with the wall covering attached. I'm not fond of it anyway so off it will go all the way thru the kitchen and living room an be replaced with heavy vinyl wallpaper about the same color, but more to my liking. It is pricey. I'll need to use either plywood ot masonite on top of the insulation to fasten it to. My work schedule changes tomorrow so I'll be able to get busy on it at least a few hours a day from here on. Hope to have some progress and photos to show by the end of this weekend. I have about seventeen days to finish this so I can use it for a trip we have planned so wish me luck in getting materials on time.
Frank
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Old 09-27-2007, 03:41 PM   #19
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Frank,
I talked to a guy yesterday, he said I may never get the bulge completely out, for the same reason you are saying so maybe a thicker marine plywood, but will the glue adhere to it ??
This is a very aggressive schedule, I wish you all the luck and I hope the availability of materials wont hold you up,
How much of the interior are you taking down (cabinets etc), I also want to take out the carpet from the door to the drivers seat, Mine has tile in front of the kitchen / bathroom, I want to replace all this with a wood / laminate type flooring. The tile was laid down then the wall to the bathroom installed and also goes under the kitchen sink stove that is part of the slide out, I think I can get to the tile under the kitchen stuff - but the bathroom wall is another story any ideas as how to do this ? I guess I can leave the tile in the bathroom itself, and use a dremell to cut the tile and do a transition between the floorings----anyway I am going to see how this delamination thing pans out before I start this other nightmare.
I love RV'S
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Old 10-02-2007, 03:09 PM   #20
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Frank
Hows life ? Any problems?
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