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Old 10-02-2007, 05:27 PM   #21
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No problems at all. I finished replacing the carpet with wood. Got most of the wall finished this weekend and will try to complete it tomorrow. Have about fifty photos to post and will by the end of the week. I don't want to slow down my momentum. About two or three more good days and it will be all finished. I'll open a new thread with the play by play as soon as I finish.
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:43 AM   #22
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I have posted a new thread with photos and information. Go to: Repairing a delaminated MH wall from the inside Part One. Part two will follow when it is completed. I am also going to put up some photos of the carpet removal and new wooden floor.
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Old 10-05-2007, 09:50 AM   #23
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Frank,
Dont stop for us,
Post when you can
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Old 10-06-2007, 11:30 AM   #24
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I’ve been through a related experience with my ’94 LY. Last year the doors for the storage compartments became loose, and the trim band between the fiberglass and the aluminum started getting loose on both sides near the rear of the motorhome. The local Airstream dealer diagnosed it as water having gotten in and rusted out the steel framing to which all this was fastened down to. He said that the repair would require cutting the fiberglass and welding in new steel – a minimum of $8,000. I found a local repair shop who does insurance repairs to motorhomes that have been involved in accidents. His quote was $25,000 saying that the walls had to be totally dissembled.

I was quite discouraged, but I did find a truck repair shop in Sewell NJ that specialized in fiberglass work. The owner of the shop (C2it Enterprise), John Campbell, had done considerable motor home repairs for the local Hitchworld when they had rental units (and was currently the contract repair shop for Penske), so I decided to take the chance and bring the LY there. It turned out that there was no rust or rot at all, but that it was assembled using aluminum rivets that had stretched and broken. In addition, one of the previous owners of the rig had had some repairs done that were improper. John and his crew removed all the storage compartment doors and the “wainscoting” (for want of a better word). Because the holes had been enlarged and would not hold any rivets, he slipping in some new steel behind it and welded it in. He used stainless steel rivets instead of aluminum ones, and then reassembled it all. The metal bottom was repainted all around (including the rear grill) with charcoal, base coat & clear coat, and both the front and rear caps, where the gel coat was worn and cracked, were sanded, filled and painted with automotive paint. One of John’s sons is a union caulker and he went over every seam to ensure that all seals were OK (they found some I didn’t know about that were potential problems).

While some of us are capable of making these repairs on our own, at my age, lack of the technical knowledge to make this type of repair and with arthritis in my hands, I would not embark on this as a do-it-yourself project. Thus I was pleased to be able to find someone to do it, do it well and at a reasonable price.
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Old 10-07-2007, 12:46 PM   #25
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So what was the bill ?
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Old 10-07-2007, 05:47 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstrv
So what was the bill ?
$6,220
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Old 10-07-2007, 05:54 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santart
NI finished replacing the carpet with wood.
This intrigues me. I've been considering replacing most of the carpet in my '94 LY. What I was thinking of doing was putting in hardwood flooring. The only thing that really deters me is that we have and travel with a couple of dogs - Dachshunds, to be precise. Based on our experience with dogs marking on floors, I find that it does leak into the joints between the hardwood, at least it does with the urethaned floors at home. I was musing over finishing with epoxy resin, but that turns out to be a one month job, as it takes several days to cure between layers.

I noticed recently that some of the home repair stores are now selling pre-finished bamboo flooring. Is this stuff any good? Has anyone had any experience with it? I am assuming that whatever flooring I decide upon, it should be glued down with silicone rtv adhesive as well as screwed down.

I'm open to suggestions, particularly from anyone who has had experience reflooring a motorhome or trailer.

Howard
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:15 PM   #28
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I am not sure how new this product is?? but it may be useful for some of these type repairs. Has anyone any experience with this product?



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