Just bought a 1994 Land Yacht

[442 john]

Well, I hope i will be smiling after I get it to our house! It has a sagging headliner that was supposed to be caused by hail damage? What are the roofs made of, it looked good to me when I climbed up and looked from ladder, I thought they were Aluminum roofs? What are these things worth, it will have a salvage title, so I know that will affect the value. She looks loaded, but needs ?TLC. Hope to get her home By weekend IF I can get off from work early. She is a rear diesel pusher, leveling jacks, generator, washer dryer in one unit(are these any good?) I know I will have LOTS of questions and I know I need to learn how to do the search thing, BUT I AM EXITED!!!! Got to go to bed and TRY to sleep. Wife is KIND-OF in shock I think, so she better be a good one! God bless!!

[John H.]

sounds like a project. how about some good Pictures.

and congratulations to you and your wife.

[BarnacleBill]

Congratulations on your Land Yacht! An Airstream is always worth fixing. We have a 1995 LE Cutter. The sagging headliner means water has leaked in and dissolved the water-based glue they used to attach the headliner fabric to the ceiling.

FIRST! STOP THE LEAKS! Damage will continue and get worse the longer the coach leaks. The roof on our 1995 LE Cutter is fiberglass. I think you will find your roof is the same.

The best product we have found to fix leaks on the roof is Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant. It is made by Dicor Dicor Corporation | The Dicor Corporation | Official Website . You can find it at most RV shops.

I suggest you take a few minutes and read this post about using Dicor. There are some good tips on the project that is defiantly in your future. Here's the link How to Use DICOR (self-levelling EPDM sealer) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Enjoy your Airstream!

[blkmagikca]

BarnacleBill is very correct about the possibility of a roof leak. I had a '94 LY diesel and the roof was an on-going headache until I redid those seams. The final fix was to remove all the seam sealant, make sure all the rivets were intact - I had about 12 of them that were either loose or missing. I first used Dicor lap sealant and followed that up the next day (after the lap sealant had cured) with Eternabond Tape over the seams.

It is most important that the seams be properly cleaned with mineral spirits before putting on the lap sealant, and again before putting on the Eternabond Tape.

A word of caution based on my experience - other brands of roofing tape do not work well as they do not bond to the fiberglass wheras Eternabond's tape chemically bonds to the fiberglass. Putting the tape on is a 3-man job - one to hold the tape in line slightly taut, one to stick it down and the last person to use a roller to press it down to enable the bonding to take place. Be especially careful not to stretch the tape when you go over the edge of vents, as it will lift and water will get in underneath (I know, as it happened to me). After the tape is down, use the Dicor lap sealant on all leading edges so that the wind will not lift the tape.

Good luck with your project.

[DaveFL]

I found the tape looked good around the bathroom vent, but I had to take it off when I decided to put in a fantastic fan vent, on pulling off the tape found a screw that was rusty, so tape looked good but was leaking enough to have a rusty screw which in turn allowed a small amount of water under the roof fiberglass. So spend a lot of effort looking in the area of the leak, but if you know you have a leak do what was recommended above.

[Splitrock]

- Photo Gallery

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f160...ard-64035.html

[442 john]

That is a MAJOR LEAK!!!! She was in a hail storm, I looked at roof from ladder and it didn't look bad to me but I will do a better look tomorrow after I get her home. I was thinking of using the EPDM roof coating to insure all the crack, if any, were sealed.

[Paul Dobbin]

Welcome aboard the Land Yacht Forum.
We too have a 94 Diesel Pusher, but without the washer & dryer. It's been a good coach and this forum has bee lots of help. The big thing to learn is that it doesn't seem that there are two identical ones out there. Similar yes, but identical no, so all advice you get there is based on the writer's coach, not necessarily like yours.
Ours has an aluminum roof (pebble texture) that I re-coat with elastomeric rubberized roof coating every couple of years. The only seam is around the edge, but the coating seals that and around the openings. The main thing is it reflect a lot of the sun's heat.
Our headliner drooped too but not from water damage but heat. The vinyl headliner had a foam backing that dried out and separated from the ceiling board. We fixed it with several boxes of long white tacks and now have a buttoned pattern on the ceiling. (There is a thread on this if you learn the search thing).
Value? Unfortunately they aren't worth much because old motor homes are seen by many as the "Cousin Eddie" type (From the National Lampoon movie Christmas Vacation). So the value is in the enjoyment of using it.
We almost always are towing something and still get 11 mpg @ 65 mph on flat ground. We're impressed with it's pulling power and acceleration.
We do lots of Smoky Mountain trips and the "Jake Brake" is a wonderful
accessory too. The interiors are good quality and with new carpet throughout it seems like a new coach.
Enjoy yours and keep the Forum posted on your progress, we can all learn something.

[masseyfarm]

Can someone post a picture of the actual roof seams on the side of a Land Yacht Chassis? 1992 or newer. Maybe some of your roof also.
Are any of these wide body units??
Ok is this typical for these roof seams. To have a seam on the flat part of the roof as shown on the left side when you blow this shot up???


On my 96 Clipper and on the Wide Body Cutter the roof is continuous one piece f/g over the top wall and the only seam is on the vertical surface at the top of the wall, and comes with a drip rail.
It would be of interest if we could establish when this method was introduced, or if it only applied to the wide body units.
TKs
Dave

[masseyfarm]

This is a one piece roof for all the Class A, Cutter, Clipper, XC, XL, etc. from 1995 up.
It is finished over the corner to the sidewall and drip rail.
This method would eliminate almost any leak at this point. Only with a pressure washer could it be possible to force water up and into the wall/roof joint.
However, if you have a leak at the skylight, or a/c unit, or at a vent, the water is trapped in the roof structure and may actually travel the length of the unit to exit.
Dave

[gloran]

Dave, not quite sure of you request. Did you want to see a picture of where the roof wraps around down to the drip rail gutter? There were two different styles, 1990 through 1993 and maybe 94 models will have a metal cove coping running around side edge full length from front cap to rear cap, that is what is on my 93. Newer than that the fiberglas roof wraps around one piece down to drip rail, eliminating the metal coping. Wide bodies would also have this newer style.

[gloran]

Dave,
This is a photo of my roof (not the greatest picture), the fiberglass stops at the metal coping. The problem with this sytle of roof is that the metal is higher than the fiberglass on the sides and also the front and end caps are higher - creating a square dam all around the top which doesn't allow the water to completely run off the roof.

[masseyfarm]

OK == You have expained it well and I was not aware they were built that way. I can see where there is a concern on the roof to sidewall transition.
Looking at it, I would think this is a good place for ETERNABOND TAPE.
The tape, if used on a good clean surface works well, and if it does lift, it is easy to spot and repair.
Your roof looks like it is well maintained, and in good condition.
Thanks for the confirmation
Dave.

Originally Posted by gloran

Dave,
This is a photo of my roof (not the greatest picture), the fiberglass stops at the metal coping. The problem with this sytle of roof is that the metal is higher than the fiberglass on the sides and also the front and end caps are higher - creating a square dam all around the top which doesn't allow the water to completely run off the roof.