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06-06-2014, 02:48 PM
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#21
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Rivet Master
1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson
, Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,724
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Can you describe the process of pulling the wires through the conduits? Just wondering what is the best way.
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06-06-2014, 11:52 PM
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#22
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
Everson
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92landyacht
Can you describe the process of pulling the wires through the conduits? Just wondering what is the best way.
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How much of the postings on this subjects have you read?
You will want to find at say Harbor Fright an inexpensive fish tape , nylon or fibor glass is good. It's a roll slick cable with a eyelet on the end for tying things like wire. Under the closet like was mentioned, is the beginning of the under the floor conduit get that fish tape from under the closet on the passenger side to under the refrigerator on the drivers side then write me again. You will see the beginning of the conduit under the closet by looking for and following the other wires that are in the same conduit.
Hope this helps.
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06-07-2014, 06:34 AM
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#23
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Rivet Master
1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson
, Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trident
How much of the postings on this subjects have you read?
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Every one.
The reason for asking was because I was hoping you had some more detailed insight on the best way to get those wire fishes through the mess of wires that AS installed. The wire conduits on my 36' 93 LY are a complete nightmare to pull wires through. AS used the smallest possible conduit and created big jumbles of wires in the middle. Guess I was wrong.
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06-15-2014, 12:09 AM
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#24
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
Everson
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92landyacht
Every one.
The reason for asking was because I was hoping you had some more detailed insight on the best way to get those wire fishes through the mess of wires that AS installed. The wire conduits on my 36' 93 LY are a complete nightmare to pull wires through. AS used the smallest possible conduit and created big jumbles of wires in the middle. Guess I was wrong.
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Did you try the that fish tape I mentioned it was a hard pull but I got it through. You may need a metal fish tape if it's that hard to get thru but you run the risk of nicking a wire so don't force it in and if it gets caught cut it off don't try pulling it out it will damage the wires. Be sure to turn everything electrical off at the source if you decide to go with the metal tape.
Did you see what I came up with to fill the hole in the dash? I would like the opinion of a cabinet maker like yourself?
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06-15-2014, 10:43 AM
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#25
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Rivet Master
1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson
, Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,724
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Pictures please!!
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06-15-2014, 12:52 PM
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#26
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
Everson
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92landyacht
pictures please!!
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06-15-2014, 06:51 PM
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#27
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3 Rivet Member
1997 31' Land Yacht
Mahone Bay
, Nova Scotia
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 116
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Now that is perfect for a Land Yacht! Very nice, Trident!
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06-16-2014, 06:37 AM
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#28
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Rivet Master
1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson
, Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,724
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Nice job.
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07-01-2014, 11:21 PM
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#29
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
Everson
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92landyacht
Every one.
The reason for asking was because I was hoping you had some more detailed insight on the best way to get those wire fishes through the mess of wires that AS installed. The wire conduits on my 36' 93 LY are a complete nightmare to pull wires through. AS used the smallest possible conduit and created big jumbles of wires in the middle. Guess I was wrong.
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Did you ever get the antenna wire to the new location ?
Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums
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07-02-2014, 12:03 PM
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#30
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3 Rivet Member
1997 31' Land Yacht
Mahone Bay
, Nova Scotia
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 116
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I don't know about Landyacht 92, but we got our antenna wire pulled - went through the floor channel as you said from passenger side to drivers side, then went through the back of the lower cabinets, behind the sofa and up the wall beside the door frame (for now). We will put a piece of channel there to cover the wire.
Unfortunately in the process of hooking up to the antenna booster we found that the switch in the booster was shot……
Sort of like the operation was a success but the patient died However that too shall be fixed!
Thank you, Trident, for your description of how this is done.
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09-03-2015, 07:05 PM
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#31
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trident
If you decide to use the drawer slide mount, I used a thin metal plate over the mounting holes on the tv for a little added strength.
I think if makes the two slides act more like one and that makes it all stronger. See the plate in the picture.
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Moving ahead on your plan, which looks excellent. Suggestions re. the plate, thickness? I imagine that dimensions are dictated by the mounting holes on the rear of the TV. Any other suggestions?
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09-03-2015, 08:17 PM
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#32
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trident
I bought a 22 inch LED I could have bought a 24 inch I think it would work without moving anything like the thermostat or outlet.
I wanted a 12 volt because I only want to crank up the antenna and reach for the remote. This one has a cd built in , Attachment 212019Attachment 212020Attachment 212021Attachment 212022can be a
computer monitor , USB and other features. The mount I came up with holds the TV only 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the wall good in that location but it still slides out to make connections or for better viewing.
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This might be a duplicate posting of one I thought I posted earlier today. Trident, I'm impressed with your design and plan to coop it. But a question: dimensions of your steel mounting plate? Assume that the holes needing to be drilled are disctated by the TV backside. Any suggestions, hints would be most appreicated.
And thanks.
Mike
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09-04-2015, 08:46 PM
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#33
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
Everson
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comprose
Moving ahead on your plan, which looks excellent. Suggestions re. the plate, thickness? I imagine that dimensions are dictated by the mounting holes on the rear of the TV. Any other suggestions?
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You are on the right track with the plate it will add strength to the back of the TV. The plate is aluminum and maybe 1/6"thick and yes the holes line up with the threaded holes on the tv. You may need to drill a hole in each of the slides to line up with the holes on the tv.
Good luck
I think there are pictures of the my installation back in the thread but I will try to send another of the plate.
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09-06-2015, 11:57 AM
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#34
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trident
You are on the right track with the plate it will add strength to the back of the TV. The plate is aluminum and maybe 1/6"thick and yes the holes line up with the threaded holes on the tv. You may need to drill a hole in each of the slides to line up with the holes on the tv.
Good luck
I think there are pictures of the my installation back in the thread but I will try to send Attachment 247284another of the plate.
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The picture is a great help. Thanks. A question: How did you fasten the slides to the wall, as I recall there is not much meat there (or am I mistaken?).
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09-07-2015, 08:47 AM
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#35
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
Everson
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comprose
The picture is a great help. Thanks. A question: How did you fasten the slides to the wall, as I recall there is not much meat there (or am I mistaken?).
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No you have it right.
I used several pre drilled wooden blocks to to give the screws more to hold on to and eliminate the scratch hazard in the closet .
Hope this helps.
Trident
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