How to reseal windows

[92landyacht]

I'm in the process of restoring the inside walls in my 92 LY due to water leakage. Most of the damage could be traced back to split seams on the roof line. Before I do the interior wall replacements I'd like to pull the window frames and reseal them to ensure I have no leaks. It would also allow me to replace the wall panels much easier by running them back under the widow frames as originally done by the factory.

Has anybody removed a window for this era LY? I'd just like to know if there are any secrets that I should know about. I'm assuming that I'll have to remove all the inside frame screws that surround the window. Beyond that I have no clue.

I'm sure I will figure it out as I go, but it sure would be nice to know in advance what to expect. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[BarnacleBill]

I'm assuming that I'll have to remove all the inside frame screws that surround the window.

That's about it. But when you have removed the screws the window is free to fall out, so have someone on the out side just in case.

We did a water damage repair and I will try to find some more of the pictures we took...

[is.chowa]

I too will be doing an interior restore and the "how to remove windows" is a good question. The answer I got from A/S was to remove the trim, the rubber gasket then the screws. Not very much info.

If you have removed the windows, photos would be very usefull.

Thanks

Steve

[92landyacht]

I've removed the first window and replaced the seal. I'll post pics on the next window, but I had to work quickly since rain was on the way. Basically it's as I expected. You first remove any window treatments (window shades and whatever frame it's in). That only took 6 screws for my large front window. Once that's off you them simply remove all the inside trim ring screws. There were about 32 screws on my window. I needed a LONG Philips screwdriver to get the top screws out since the cabinets were in the way to get a clean shot at them. An electric screwdriver helps a ton. Don't remove the last screw until you either have someone on the outside or a brace to keep the window from falling out. Something as simple as a ladder leaning against the window works just fine. Once braced you can remove the last screw. In my case there was still sufficient glue holding in the window that I needed a putty knife to gently pry away the window. Even the large window was not too heavy for me to remove it on my own. Once the seal is broken, the window just comes right out. If you’ve had significant water damage it will become apparent once the window is out.

I purchased 50' of 3/4" x 1/8" butyl rubber gasket seal to go around the window frame. I just cleaned the area around the window with acetone and a scrubbing pad. Wiped the area and then put the butyl gasket around the window opening. I tried to remove the original sealer around the window frame, but it was stuck on real good. Seems that AS used a gray silicone sealer. I couldn’t get it all off, so I just left what was still solid. Once the gasket was in place I put the window back in. Held it in place and then went inside. I replaced the trim ring and screwed a couple of the screws in loosely. One thing I found out is that the hole for the window is a little larger then the window frame. From the inside I repositioned the window so that it was centered in the window cutout. I then tightened a couple screws and checked it on the outside to make sure all was right. Look at the corners to get the best idea of when the window is centered. Once I was OK with the positioning I then began to tighten all the inside screws. If everything goes right, you should see the butyl rubber seal extrude out all around the outside window frame. You then take a utility knife and trim the excess off all around the window. Then you're done. Some will add an additional bead of calk, but I didn't see the need based on the perfect seal from the butyl tape.

[is.chowa]

Do you have a source for the butyl tape? I am waiting for weather to turn warm here before the restoration project. Finally discovered how the windows are attached. As simple as removing the rubber finish inside strip starting at upper center of window to reveal the mounting screws.

As for the tape, was able to find some glazier's tape but not 3/4 " wide, so a source would be appreciated. Also a source for the 1/8" luan, the only thing I can find is door skin material locally. Your sharing of pics and experience is greatly appreciated. I have some pics to share but having difficulty posting them.

Regards,

Steve

[92landyacht]

The supplier for the butyl tape was:

3/4" x 30' Black Butyl Tape: Mobile Home Parts Store

The Luan was bought locally in Lawrenceville, GA from Cofer Adams. Their supplier was Dixie Plywood, but Dixie is a wholesaler only. Dixie is located around the country so you may be able to use ony of there buyers as well. Here's a link to Dixie Plywood:

Wholesale Plywood and Lumber | Dixie Plywood and Lumber Company

The luann ended up costing me about $20 a 4'x8' sheet.

[gloran]

I think Lowes and Home Depot generally carry lauan plywood or canget it for you.

[92landyacht]

Nope, both Lowes and Home Depot stopped carrying 1/8" luan a couple years ago. They carry the 1/4" but do not carry the 1/8". I asked both if I could order it, and both said no. Ask your local lumber store to see if they can get it.

[BarnacleBill]

I could not get the 1/8" luan from Lowe's or Home Depot last year in the Tampa area.
Found it at a plywood wholesaler and bought it through a local cabinet shop.