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Taxman · 01-15-2007, 08:43 PM

I need to recaulk the roof seams of my 33' Land Yacht. Camping World estimated it would cost roughly $900 to clean, uv protect and recaulk the roof. Is that a fair price?

I'm considering using Eternabond on the roof seams and other pass throughs.

Has anyone on the forum used Eternabond on their Land Yacht? What was your experience with it?

Specifically, I am concerned that the "pebbly" surface of the roof will result in a less than waterproof seal, and that water will "wick" under the Eternabond, thus defeating the whole purpose of the exercise.

Silvertwinkie · 01-15-2007, 08:50 PM

I don't know much about re-sealing an Airstream roof, but what I have heard, is that Camping World is not a place to take an Airstream. If they do the job, I've heard more than one person say the fee was way out of line, simply because it was an Airstream....if they accept the job at all....most Camping Words won't even touch 'em in the first place, unless it's a standard part, component that can easily be swapped out.

AZtraveler · 01-16-2007, 12:07 PM

I do not have a Land Yacht, but have used Eternabond around a roof vent on my Interstate. It consists of a putty like material covered with a white vinal like surface. You peel off a plastic liner and use a roller to push the putty into every crevice and get any bubbles out. It is actually designed for house roofs around skylights, etc. so you shouldn't have any problem with a "pebby" surface. I didn't even have to remove the old checkered caulk. Just covered everything up and haven't had a leak since.

Larry C. in AZ

Taxman · 01-16-2007, 04:31 PM

Larry,

Thanks! I think you just helped me make my caulking decision!

Janets Husband · 01-16-2007, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taxman

I need to recaulk the roof seams of my 33' Land Yacht. Camping World estimated it would cost roughly $900 to clean, uv protect and recaulk the roof. Is that a fair price?

I'm considering using Eternabond on the roof seams and other pass throughs.

Has anyone on the forum used Eternabond on their Land Yacht? What was your experience with it?

Specifically, I am concerned that the "pebbly" surface of the roof will result in a less than waterproof seal, and that water will "wick" under the Eternabond, thus defeating the whole purpose of the exercise.

Standard methods for seam sealing for an Airstream is to use Acryl-R and Vulkem or Sikiflex sealers. I would suggest that you do a search for "leaks" or "seams" on the forum. I took a look at the Eternabond web site and it appears that you do not want to use this product on seams. If you want someone to do it I would suggest that you let a Airstream dealer do it. Most know what they are doing with the unusual attributes of an Airstream trailer.

Taxman · 01-16-2007, 07:27 PM

Thanks, Gary. I unintentionally confused you -- my 33' Land Yacht is a motorhome -- I am a "newbie," and I forgot that Airstream had both a trailer and a MH "Land Yacht."

From what I can tell, the Eternabond will work nicely on the roof of my LY motorhome.

lewster · 01-16-2007, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taxman

I need to recaulk the roof seams of my 33' Land Yacht. Camping World estimated it would cost roughly $900 to clean, uv protect and recaulk the roof. Is that a fair price?

I'm considering using Eternabond on the roof seams and other pass throughs.

Has anyone on the forum used Eternabond on their Land Yacht? What was your experience with it?

Specifically, I am concerned that the "pebbly" surface of the roof will result in a less than waterproof seal, and that water will "wick" under the Eternabond, thus defeating the whole purpose of the exercise.

Hi!

Is your 33 Landyacht a trailer or motorhome? If it is the latter, I would suggest going up on the roof to see if you have a composite roof or an EPDM rubber roof. This will make HUGE difference in the materials that you use. Sealing trailers can be found in the search function and as mentioned above, SikaFlex221 and Acryl-R are the factory recommended products to use.

If the roof is EPDM and is showing cracking thru the membrane, you will have to apply a whole new sheet of EPDM rubber. This is NOT a job left to Camping World, where their install tech get under $15/hour and usually have little or no training other than in-house. I have seen horrors come out of Camping World that took more time to correct than to do it properly the first time.

If your EPDM roof is still in relatively good shape, you can re-coat it with an acryilic/EPDM bonding agent that will blend in with the existing membrane and last another 5-7 years, depending on exposure and climate.

Feel free to contact me for more detailed info.

Taxman · 01-17-2007, 07:24 PM

Lew, thanks for responding. I'm new at this, and need all the help I can get!

To answer your question, it is a 1990 Land Yacht motorhome. I have looked at the roof, and, frankly, I have no way of telling whether it is a composite or an EPDM rubber roof. I was hoping someone on the forum might be able to tell me what sort of roof Airstream put on the 1990 Land Yachts?

HST, it is one piece, is white and has a "pebbly" surface. If I had to make an SWAG on it, I'd say it is rubber. It is in good condition -- PO kept coach in a barn when it was not on the road -- no cracks, holes, worn spots, etc.

My concern re: the seams is that I am not able to keep the coach under roof -- and in Floriduh, the sun is fierce. So I want to do some preventive maintenance, now, to preclude any leaks developing.

Eternabond seems like a "good thing" to use to reseal the seams -- though none are leaking, to my knowledge, so I think I'll go ahead and do that.

While I am up there, I'll recaulk the skylight, ACs, vents, etc. What kind of caulk would you recommend for the areas I cannot use Eternabond on?

What would you recommend I do to the rest of the roof to slow down the weathering effect that will take place now that the coach is outdoors all the time?

There is some modest delamination on both sides of the coach behind both bedroom windows. I cannot find any signs of leaks around the windows. Since I don't want any to develop, is there an effective caulk I can use (without taking the windows out) which would ensure a weathertight seal around the bedroom windows?

I sincerely appreciate your interest and willingness to share your knowledge with me.

lewster · 01-17-2007, 08:10 PM

Frank,

Be careful what you use as all products are NOT compatible with each other. Stay with one company's products.

From your description, it sounds like you DO have an EPDM rubber roof. In that case, I would use products from Dicor. They make a great roof seam sealer that is called 'self leveling sealant' and does just what it says.....the bead levels itself after you apply it to the seams, skylight ends, vents and any other roof protrusion. I would buy at least a case of the stuff and go over EVERY seam that you have on that roof.

After that, they make an acrylic roof sealing kit that will work very well and will also last quite a while. It's a 4 step process after you seal the seams: wash the roof, apply their roof cleaner, apply their activator and then 2-3 coats of the final acrylic/EPDM liquid with a paint roller. ALL of the required products come in the kit and dit should take you about 6 hours including drying time. They sell for around $500 and I think that Camping World might carry them. If not, let me know and I'll find you a local source.

Have fun!

gloran · 01-17-2007, 09:02 PM

Frank,
Your roof is a one piece fiberglass with metal side caps, with a front and rear end cap made out of acrylic.
The modest delamination most likely is from the roof rather than the windows, it it were the windows the delam would be directly under them.
Randy

Taxman · 01-17-2007, 10:00 PM

Thanks, Randy. Roof will be Eternabonded as soon as the stuff gets here!

GlenCoombe · 01-19-2007, 06:24 AM

Frank, I've used Eternabond patch on a whole in my SOB...(don't ask) and it's held great for two years.
Camping world quoted over $700 for an exhaust system for my new Honda 6010 genset. The whole kit (included in their quote) cost $163.00!! CW is great for buying stuff off the shelf but having had a toilet installed by them I would search for an AS dealer with experience in the area of repair you need.
Be careful with the EB stuff. Once it's down it doesn't want to come back up... you get one shot.

Taxman · 01-19-2007, 10:12 AM

Glen,

Newbie question: What is a SOB? I gather it is some kind of non-Airstream vehicle, but the acronym does not compute in my newbie brain.

Thanks for the Eternabond advice. I will use it on the roof and will be very careful.

Re: CW: I am attracted to having them work on my LY because they warranty their work and have nationwide locations. Susan and I plan to travel a lot, and if we need service, it strikes me that CW might be the place.

HST, I plan to be very, very careful with what I let them do.

Best Regards,

FRank

GlenCoombe · 01-19-2007, 10:52 AM

Frank, SOB is "some other brand" to some and "square old box" to others of the Classic persuasion.
CW is o.k. for some service but an informed consumer is the wisest. Do shop around.

Geophilist · 01-19-2007, 11:12 AM

Frank,

My advice is to listen very carefully to what the folks on the forum have to say. They are the ones that have the experience that we are lacking. My advice is to always carry a laptop around and use the fourm. If you find yourself in a new location and need repairs, go on the forum and ask around. I bet you could be in the smallest burg in America, and ask for help and there would be someone on the forum that is either near there, or has just been there and can give you advice on where to get good service.

Besides, it is bad karma to always be worrying about where you might break down instead of thinking that all will go as planned. It rarely does, but, hey, good thoughts are good thoughts.

Good luck,

Steve

Taxman · 01-19-2007, 01:17 PM

Glen,

Thanks for the definition and the CW dvice. Both were sorely needed.

FReegards,

FRank

Taxman · 01-19-2007, 01:22 PM

Steve,

Roger that! I have been on the receiving end of mush good advice since I began lurking on this forum 6 months ago or so.

And it goes without saying that we always carry our laptop with us. Though we only use it sparingly. After all, isn't part of this whole Airstreaming scene "Getting away FRom it sll?"

I always expect a good outcome when I start out to do something -- why bother if you don't expect a "Win?" HST, stuff happens, and if "Be Prepared" is good enough for the Boy Scouts, it is good enough for me!

Thanks, and best regards,

FRank

Geophilist · 01-21-2007, 02:43 PM

Frank,

Be prepared is excellent advice, and one that most of us vintage AS owners have in common.

I wonder how many pounds of tools, parts, and other goodies would fall out of the typical Classic if you were to take one and shake it out?

Bet mine would get several more mph if I were to go "Bare".

Steve

Paul Dobbin · 01-30-2007, 08:12 PM

Frank,
This is the thread that I came on board with. See "Sealing preparations for Land Yacht Roofs" in the search window.
I did ours with coolseal and have been very happy with it. Applied with a brush around openings and with a roller in the big open areas, it worked very well.
It's available at Home Depot in gallon cans and in a caulking tube for far less than Camping World.
Paul

Taxman · 01-30-2007, 09:34 PM

Well, I did it! Eternabond arrived, and FRiday I was able to seal all the seams on the roof of my LY. Took about three hours, start to finish, and the Eternabond is relatively easy to apply.

Now, I'll not win any awards for "pretty," but the seams will not leak!

I have to go back and use caulk around some of the smaller fittings and such, but I am comfortable that the seams are sealed!

Thanks to all who gave me advice on sealing my roof.