Dump Valve Handles... boy, do I feel stupid!

[RAG]

Hi Folks,

Sorry to bother everyone at the height of the camping season, but isn't that always the time "something" happens.

On two separate occasions during a 3 week adventure through Maine, I managed to break-off half of the "T" handles on both dump valves of my '04 Land Yacht 30 Motorhome (photo attached). Personally, I believe the Moose did it while we were sleeping..... but I digress. Ok, so now what? Are the handles easily replaced, or do continue on with half the pull and hope for the best? Sure could use some help here.

As always, any and all responses are GREATLY appreciated.

Best regards and safe travel to all,

Randy, Pam & Kobi

[wayneskid]

I think this is a common failure with older RVs. The plastic handle weakens as it ages. Google "rv waste valve handle" and you will find replacement handles are available, including metal ones that should last longer. Be sure you verify that the threads will match your valves.

[AldeanFan]

I broke the handle off my Black water dump valve with a full tank

My handle broke because the valves are so difficult to open and I pulled too hard.

My solution is to replace both valves, the new valves cost 50$ on Amazon.
This should also stop the leaking grey water valve, and give me the opportunity to inspect some of the frame while I have the belly pan off.

Wish me luck, hopefully I don't discover any frame problems once I pull the rear pan off, demo starts this weekend.

[ventport]

Those two valves are in the open and easy to replace. The handles may be breaking as said before because the valves pull so hard. Replace the valves and your problems will be solved for years to come. Plus you get new handles with the new valves.

[RickDavis]

Keep a pair of vise grips handy in case you break the other half before you can get things fixed.
Often times it helps to loosen the 4 bolts holding the valve together as they seem to swell over time and get harder to pull (at least the valterra) about 1/4 turn on each should do it

[woodytwo]

metal replacement handles are available at CW and probably other dealers. Use a thread sealer like lock tight on the threads. use vise grips to hold rod while you tighten handle. Spray some silicone on the rods. these are always needing a spray every couple of months. if this doesn't work, you're on your own.

[DaveFL]

Visegrip the shaft and unscrew the handle, install new one. With the short distance from the outside opening you should be able to clean the track and shoot some oil for lubrication, if the o-ring seals didn't shift out of place.

Empty and clean your setup looks easier to replace valve than mine.

I solved the problem with a valve not closing by putting another valve at the end of the outlet pipe, works so well left it in place as a backup valve, and just put the cap on after the new valve.

[Ahab]

WoodyToo has the best idea, spray silicone lube on the rods.

[DaveFL]

Having taken a few apart, mechanism picks up the friction from where the sliding plate of plastic slides across the opening, valve uses two rings similar to o rings but shaped in a v, they allow the plastic plate to slide in a track. Track can get stuff clogging it, the rings can displace and distort partially blocking the track. The ss shafts are a long way from the riding tracks at about the middle of the plate. Shooting a lot of silicone around the shaft might work its way to the track but with the short setup shown, silicone could be shot directly on the track that runs top and bottom of the sliding plate.
If it doesn't free up the sticking, taking it apart is the only solution, replacing valve if damaged, but as bad as the job is, price of new valve worth not having to do it again for awhile.

[AldeanFan]

Originally Posted by Ahab

WoodyToo has the best idea, spray silicone lube on the rods.

This may work to get you through the rest of the camping season, but it won't fix the real problem. Kind of like putting air in a flat tire, it may get you home but doesn't fix anything.

If the handles are breaking there is definitely a problem with the valves and they either need to be repaired or replaced.

[loreepeter]

we have exactly the same valve arrangement on our 2004 land y.

first, only use a product that will not react to the rubber seal that the valve slides into.

with empty tanks open both valves.
flash light, a # 12 or # 14 copper wire stripped about 18 inches long.
make a small bend at one end of the wire. not too small.
carefully bend the wire as you try to reach the groves in the rubber seal.
patience here...take your time and try to clean the groves good.
clean the groves where they are straight and of course the curved section.

next, I use DOW # 111 [will not react of the rubber seal].
putting a little #111 on the end of the copper wire I try to place some into the grove....a little at a time is the answer...patience.

your valves will slide with almost no effort...better than new.

yes, I know some will say the #111 will catch stuff, but I always dump a 3/4 to full tank at full opening.

this has worked for us...done it only.. maybe once every 2 or 3 years.

pff

[Kota]

I replaced my valve assembly on the road this spring. It was only about $35 and pretty easy to replace. I removed the 4 bolts from each side and used the existing flanges.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ml#post1301685

I dump a cap of Calgon water softener in both my tanks after I dump them. They say it keep valves lubricated and helps the browns swim downstream.