Correct Method of blowing water out of lines

[spat61]

I have a 2003 Land Yacht (Gas). 30'. I'm seeking advice as to the proper sequence for blowing water out of the lines and subsequent pushing pink stuff thru to ensure all water is out for winterizing. . My manual states the heater by-pass should have the hot and cold lines closed, that would mean the valves are in the horizontal position. So the by pass would be open in a straight line. "Turn the water heater valves to by-pass flow position. To by-pass the water heater for winterizing, close valves A and C

and open valve B ". So, that stops any of the pink stuff from going into the water heater tank. If I'm going to blow air thru the lines, should all valves be in the straight line (open) position? Would that include the water tank valve, the hot and cold valves under the bed, the valve in back of the toilet? Plus, open all faucets and shower. Once the water is blown out, what is the procedure for pushing the pink stuff thru? Do I need to disconnect any of the water pump lines? Am I even on the right track? Comments and help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Steve

[easyride]

You don`t need antifreeze in water heater,set up vales as directed,pull plug from WH,let it drain.Connect air to fresh water inlet,set your compressor regulator to 50#,I start at the nearest fixture to the inlet,open hot & cold valves separately until only air comes out.Do this to all fixtures,then go back and do it again.Don`t forget the toilet hold down pedal until all water is out,then do it again.
To install antifreeze,you need to hook up to the inlet side of your pump,flip on pump and turn on all valves until the pink comes out.
Then if you want ,install plug in WH,open a WH valve and let a little pink go in there.
Now pour 2 cups of pink down your sinks,shower,and toilet.
You should be ready for winter. Glad I don`t have to go thru that. Dave

You do need adapters to hook up air ,and pink stuff to pump,should be able to get at any RV store or build them from
a hardware store . Dave

[Sav'h Steve]

Others will certainly reply.

I am in Ga which may not get quite as cold. I do pump out the fresh and or open the stop cocks on the bottom to let it drain. Also open the water heater relief valve and then unscrew the drain plug. Might want to flush out the sediment while it's open.

Of course turn the bypass. Then open the farthest faucet and use compressed air to blow it out. Then open the others and blow some more. I use an air tank. Blow down the drains to help clear the traps.

For me I'm done. I'll set up some lights on temp sensitive outlets (Amazon Thermocube (Amazon.com: Farm Innovators TC-3 Cold Weather Thermo Cube Thermostatically Controlled Outlet - On at 35-Degrees/Off at 45-Degrees: Home & Garden: Reviews, Prices & more ) which turn it on @ 35 and off at 43 deg.

Others will do somewhat differently.

Steve

[HowieE]

First thing to do is by pass the hot water heater and drain it by removing the drain plug. I like to slip a 18in. piece of 1/4 in. tubing into the water heater through the drain hole while the heater is draining. This hose will flow water and complete the draining once the water levele has dropped below the drain hole.

Place the water heater valves in by pass.

Remove any filter that may be under the kitchen sink and replace it with the by pass cap. If you have bought or made an air valve for the city water connection put it in the connection and while someone is in the rig have them open the faucets closest to the city connection while you apply short bursts of compressed air to the city water connection. I say short bursts to prevent bursting anything. Keep applying these short bursts until minimal spray of water is coming out of the faucet. Have them close that faucet and open the next one continuing this until you have purged all faucets.

Once the system is purged remove the input line from the pump and install a short piece of hose that will allow you to draw anti freeze into the system. Start the pump and again have your friend open each faucet, working you way away from the pump, until pink flows from the faucet.

Don't forget the toilet and the shower wand.

Pour about 10 oz. of anti freeze into each trap and a bit onto the closed toilet valve.

Come spring flush well before drinking from the system or reinstalling the filter under the sink.

[rock60]

i just drain the water heater and open the water line drains and let them drain with all faucets open. then i use a tubless tire valve with the center valve removed and hold it to the end of the faucet spout and back blow the lines clear of any water with a little air mattress pump from walmart been doing that for years. if you have used your water in fresh water tank pump it out first or drain it and leave bypass valve open and blow air thru the cold side of faucet, thats to get the water out of the pump. if you have a helper hold open tolet spray faucet and blow air back thru any cold water faucet. thats with the trailer raised high in front so all water will drain. when blowing back pressure, works best if you shut all the faucets off and back blow them one at a time. then i use windshield washer antifreeze in traps. make sure to do hot and cold sides.

allways worked for me.

[DKDarrow]

Seems for me, folks make it WAY to complicated.
1. Drain the fresh water tank by opening the petcock.
2. Drain the hot water tank while opening a hot water valve at a sink.
3. Close the hot water tank by-pass valve.
4. Close the fresh water tank petcock.
5. Pour in 2 to 4 gallons of RV anti-freeze into the freshwater tank.
6. Energize the pump and go around to each faucet, the toilet and shower and let them run until you get pink stuff out. Pump enough to get a lot into the drain plumbing. Dont forget the toilet wash out hose.
7 In the spring drain the fresh water tank and flush a couple of times.

Been doing this for many years and NO PROBLEMS. Yes, the filter fills with the pink stuff and rinses out in the spring very easily. Good luck and God bless.........Dennis

[masseyfarm]

Originally Posted by DKDarrow

Seems for me, folks make it WAY to complicated.
1. Drain the fresh water tank by opening the petcock.
2. Drain the hot water tank while opening a hot water valve at a sink.
3. Close the hot water tank by-pass valve.
4. Close the fresh water tank petcock.
5. Pour in 2 to 4 gallons of RV anti-freeze into the freshwater tank.
6. Energize the pump and go around to each faucet, the toilet and shower and let them run until you get pink stuff out. Pump enough to get a lot into the drain plumbing. Dont forget the toilet wash out hose.
7 In the spring drain the fresh water tank and flush a couple of times.

Been doing this for many years and NO PROBLEMS. Yes, the filter fills with the pink stuff and rinses out in the spring very easily. Good luck and God bless.........Dennis

Don't forget to blow out the external water pressure connection line as circulating antifreeze with the pump from the main tank will not enter this line as there is a check valve in there. This applies to the Clipper #137 DP and I assume most other units.
Any addons such as ice maker etc, need to be drained.

Are all these tasks a sign Xmas is near??????????????????

Dave

[Airstream12557]

Another faucet that is easy to miss is the faucet used to flush the black holding tank. The faucet is in an outside, lockable compartment about mid-coach from the dump valves. If you decide to add the pink antifreeze, I would strongly suggest installing a kit at the pump allow this to be done easily. I tried it the first time by taking the pump loose from the floor, removing the suction line, and using a piece of hose into the antifreeze jug. I made a MESS! I have done this successfully in my Airstream trailers, but had big problems doing it in the motorhome. I had a kit installed to make it easier. It has a three way valve before the pump. You connect a plastic line to the three way valve, put the valve in the correct position, and pump antifreeze from the jug. Simple and no mess!

[Robfike]

This fall I finally got smart enough to add a "T" to the pump suction line and a 3' piece of white water hose. Now I have an antifreeze suction line. I can do the winterizing by myself by placing the new hose in the jug. After doing the antifreeze, I just installed a plug in the end of the new hose.

[jdalrymple]

I go with out the pink stuff, too. After draining the fresh water tank, and letting the pump run until no water comes out the kitchen faucet I let the compressor run for 10-15 minutes during which I open an close each faucet several times.

[Silverexpress]

that's really all you need to do in the SE. No big deal. In northern climes I would do more for sure. In Florida I'm not sure if I would do anything.

[easyride]

Originally Posted by Silverexpress

that's really all you need to do in the SE. No big deal. In northern climes I would do more for sure. In Florida I'm not sure if I would do anything.

I`m getting new axles in now,plan on camping New Years weekend,hope we don`t need heat like last year. Dave

[DaveFL]

Originally Posted by Silverexpress

that's really all you need to do in the SE. No big deal. In northern climes I would do more for sure. In Florida I'm not sure if I would do anything.

I have opened the drains to let water out but if we get more cold like last winter I'm considering blowing back the galley and bathroom sink and shower. Haven't figured out how you would blow back the toilet line.
Would be interesting to have someone watch the drain lines to see if water comes out on blowing after time has been given to let gravity drain them.

[KeithC]

Hey DaveFL.... I live in the Atlanta Metro Area...I have had my water line to the toilet freeze and burst before. It was annoying, time consuming, a pain to fix, and it was completely preventable.

I now hook up a air plug to the water supply inlet. I use an air compressor to blow air into the water lines and force the water out. The toilet water supply lines clear when someone presses on the toilet step valve. This allowes air to blow all water out of the toilet water line system.

[DaveFL]

Originally Posted by KeithC

I now hook up a air plug to the water supply inlet. I use an air compressor to blow air into the water lines and force the water out. The toilet water supply lines clear when someone presses on the toilet step valve. This allowes air to blow all water out of the toilet water line system.

Thanks, Next project on list will be to rig up hose fitting to air compressor, and test it before cold weather gets here.
Looking at the exposed pipe behind toilet, surprises me that I didn't have blow out this last winter as I did see 32 on the thermometer in the galley.

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by DaveFL

Thanks, Next project on list will be to rig up hose fitting to air compressor, and test it before cold weather gets here.
Looking at the exposed pipe behind toilet, surprises me that I didn't have blow out this last winter as I did see 32 on the thermometer in the galley.

You don't want to a hard connection to the compressor. Use a schrader valve as your connection and give it short bursts of air. This will reduce the chances of bursting a fitting from over pressure and allows the water to settle back at low section of the plumbing awaiting the next blast of air.

If 32 is the lowest your have ever recorded it is unlikely the trailer would have frozen. Freezing requires time and temperature and 32 overnight in a big box is not enough.

[jcanavera]

Two other easily missed items in the winterizing side are the rinse hoses on the sink and toilet (if you have them). Also there is on some trailers, an outside water valve that can supply water to a hose (in my Classic it's in the compartment with the city water connection).

Jack

[masseyfarm]

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

Don't forget to blow out the external water pressure connection line as circulating antifreeze with the pump from the main tank will not enter this line as there is a check valve in there. This applies to the Clipper #137 DP and I assume most other units.
Any addons such as ice maker etc, need to be drained.

Are all these tasks a sign Xmas is near??????????????????

Dave

Note:
On my Clipper #137 the plumbing plan/installation included a reverse kitchen option that was used on the smaller Cutter. These lines would also serve the ice maker option. These lines can be seen below/behind the fridge on the Clipper, and the ends are exposed to the weather thru the outside fridge access door. This means that there are PEX lines that are capped and, because of the low runs below the shutoff valve, are not able to be drained, and are subject to freezing if left with no heat.
The shut off valves are included in the cluster of valves at the hot water tank.
Because it is impossible to tell if water is in these lines??? I suggest that when the system in drained, that these valves be opened so they are exposed to the "PINK STUFF FLUSH".
When the pink antifreeze is pushed through the system one can only hope enough would be mixed into the low spots in these lines.
In the spring just close the valves on these orphen lines to clean the system for use.
Also, the washer lines need to be drained, blown out.
THIS WILL ALSO APPLY IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A WASHER.
OPEN THE VALVES AT THE WASHER HOOKUP AND LET THEM DRAIN AS YOU WOULD THE SINK TAPS.

SOME OF THE ABOVE INFO ONLY APPLIES IF YOU ARE IN A SEVERE CLIMATE AND ARE STORING THE UNIT WITHOUT HEAT OR SHELTER.

[cosmotini]

Another easily missed item to winterize is the outside shower. Probably on 2005 and newer units.

I almost forgot it this year.

[masseyfarm]

Please read the update below as some of this initial info is incorrect.

[QUOTE=masseyfarm;917919]Note:
On my Clipper #137 the plumbing plan/installation included a reverse kitchen option that was used on the smaller Cutter. These lines would also serve the ice maker option. These lines can be seen below/behind the fridge on the Clipper, and the ends are exposed to the weather thru the outside fridge access door. This means that there are PEX lines that are capped and, because of the low runs below the shutoff valve, are not able to be drained, and are subject to freezing if left with no heat.
The shut off valves are included in the cluster of valves at the hot water tank.
Because it is impossible to tell if water is in these lines??? I suggest that when the system is drained, that these valves be opened so they are exposed to the "PINK STUFF FLUSH".
When the pink antifreeze is pushed through the system one can only hope enough would be mixed into the low spots in these lines.
CORRECTION ON ABOVE INFO!!!

Upon further investigation, I will correct the above.
There are two pex lines that run behind the fridge and I assumed they were hot and cold water lines.
One is the cold water run to the ice maker option.
The other PEX line is the drain for the fridge defrost tray, and it runs and drains at the rear wheel well.

To drain the optional ice maker line requires opening the drain valve which is located just below the water tank, (the lowest valve) and goes though the floor and again drains into the rear wheelwell.

Push some pink stuff thru with these valves open. Come spring run fresh water thru and then close the drains.

Dave