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Beltran · 10-08-2021, 04:42 PM

Does this view help you? Not my rig, but shared with me as part of another discussion.

Kitester · 10-12-2021, 10:54 AM

Yeeeee haaaaaa! After speaking to an Airstream repair and restoration shop and finding out that the only wat forward was to make the rusted part myself I decided to jump in with both feet. I pulled the glass with tools I got at harbor freight for 50 bucks.The offending part is actually a simple flat panel with one 90 degree brake. But the best part is that the seal actually sits on a cast aluminum bow and the center pillar is another cast aluminum piece that is welded top and bottom. It is super solid. I am going to the fab shop and have them make the panel out of stainless. The original was glued in and riveted ….and screwed. All the screws had rusted off but there was enough glue to make it a bugger to remove.

bkahler · 10-12-2021, 10:56 AM

That's great news. Post pictures if/when you can, I'd like to see the damage you've been referring too.

Kitester · 10-12-2021, 01:50 PM

Beltran, Awesome! Great! Thank you! I just got the piece in the pic that is covered with the dynamat looking stuff out of our AS. From start to finish took about 5 hours including going to harbor freight for the stuff to pull the glass setting up the ladders and taking the old rusty piece to the fab guys. I think the idea of more sound proofing and heat shielding is really good. I am gonna copy that.

martin300662 · 10-13-2021, 05:28 AM

Sounds like you are talking about the upper dash parts that Bob replaced on his 370? They dont have anything to do with the windshield.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f31...ml#post2317845

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f31...ml#post2325032

Kitester · 10-13-2021, 03:18 PM

Martin, yep! That’s it exactly. Same rusty piece that the defroster vents through. I got the old one out and to the fab shop I use here in town. I told them to make it out of stainless. Compared to the roof hatch project this will be a snap. I did find a concerning anomaly. The firewall plate above and left of the pedal area and behind the steering does not match up with the firewall plate that runs behind the instrument panel. It was bent forward so there was a large gap for engine compartment air to get into the cab in the drivers foot well. It looks like it was originally bolted in tha position. And the upper piece turns a 90 and looks like it was in the original pop riveted position. What’s up with that?

bkahler · 10-13-2021, 03:59 PM

No pictures yet?

Kitester · 10-13-2021, 06:11 PM

Trying to figure out how to post pictures….

Beltran · 10-13-2021, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kitester

Trying to figure out how to post pictures….

use the advanced option below. Then you can add pictures in a separate window function.

bkahler · 10-14-2021, 05:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kitester

Trying to figure out how to post pictures….

As Beltran mentioned you need to use the Advanced tab, this is assuming your are using a computer and not your phone. Once you're in the Advanced tab look for the paperclip above the editing window about in the middle.

Once you click the paperclip a Manage Attachment windows will pop up. From there it should be self explanatory. This does mean your pictures need to be on your computer, NOT your phone.

Hope this helps.

Kitester · 10-14-2021, 05:45 AM

Thank you for the guys for the info on posting picks. I take the picks with my phone and then I log into the forum with my iPad. I have to figure out how to get the iPad to access the google pics so I can select the file I want. I almost have it figured out I think. In the meantime I just take a few picks with the iPad.

Kitester · 10-14-2021, 05:56 AM

I have another question about the project. This probably won’t matter in my lifetime but….

There is corrosion on the surface of the aluminum windshield frame. I have removed most of it with a wire brush or sander. The surface that the window sealant will come in contact with has a good “tooth” on it. I don’t think it will have a problem sticking to it. However I come from an auto restoration background working mostly with steel. If this were a steel frame I would use a metal etch like ospho and then some form of coating. Any suggestions for treating the frame before the windshield is installed would be helpful. Thanks.

Kitester · 10-14-2021, 06:54 AM

Well in for a penny, in for a pound….. Has anyone R&Red the stationary glass next to the driver or passenger?

PeterH-350LE · 10-14-2021, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kitester

I have another question about the project. This probably won’t matter in my lifetime but….

There is corrosion on the surface of the aluminum windshield frame. I have removed most of it with a wire brush or sander. The surface that the window sealant will come in contact with has a good “tooth” on it. I don’t think it will have a problem sticking to it. However I come from an auto restoration background working mostly with steel. If this were a steel frame I would use a metal etch like ospho and then some form of coating. Any suggestions for treating the frame before the windshield is installed would be helpful. Thanks.

The only real Alu protector I know of is sharkhide. I have used on an entire side of a polished trailer once and the protection was outstanding, but the application method left it a bit streaky. But that would not be of concern in your case

https://www.eastwood.com/sharkhide-a...=google&wv=3.1

bkahler · 10-14-2021, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kitester

Well in for a penny, in for a pound….. Has anyone R&Red the stationary glass next to the driver or passenger?

If you're referring to the windows right beside the passenger and drivers seats I call those cockpit windows.

Various members have removed and replaced them over the years. It's been a long time since I even looked at one of those windows but from what I remember you will need to drill out all of the rivets around the outside of window, remove the inner trim because it is riveted to the metal frame and I believe there might be some screws holding the window to the front frame member of the cockpit. I'll have to look at one of the windows I have sitting in the shop to verify that last comment.

There is also a drain tube in the bottom of the window frame that will need to be accessed by removing the inner wall skin. The tube connects to a rubber hose that extends down through the floor. It's not a trivial task to remove the aluminum panel on the Classic's. Argosies are somewhat easier in that regard.

Replacement is pretty much repeating the above steps in the reverse order. Unfortunately nothing is easy to work on, especially in the interior.

Kitester · 10-14-2021, 10:24 AM

So when I tried to post pics the first time it said that my token had expired……what does that mean? I just have a few minutes to post pics from start to finish?

Beltran · 10-15-2021, 04:15 AM

You closed the browser window too soon. You need to allow pop ups as well on this site.

Kitester · 10-26-2021, 12:47 AM

So the part made by the local fab guys fit almost perfectly. I had to “adjust” the ends a bit. I had them make it in stainless. I started covering all the firewall surfaces with sound deadening stuff too it’s turning out nicely. But the latest thing that happened was tha I noticed a gap between the seal and the frame of the static passenger side cockpit window. It was about 1/16 inch wide open to outside air. The gray seal had shrunken and pulled the glass at an angle. So I popped the slider out and found that the center frame rail was loose. I was able to gently bump the rail and it slid rearward and I was able to remove the stationary window! As it turns out this rail and glass were installed before the frame was placed into the body. The rail had a mild street screw holding it in at top and bottom. They rusted out. Who would have thought that a steel screw in a channel designed to drain water would rust! Anyone encounter this before? What was your fix and where did you find the replacement Channel Seal? Thanks in advance.

PeterH-350LE · 10-26-2021, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kitester

So the part made by the local fab guys fit almost perfectly. I had to “adjust” the ends a bit. I had them make it in stainless. I started covering all the firewall surfaces with sound deadening stuff too it’s turning out nicely. But the latest thing that happened was tha I noticed a gap between the seal and the frame of the static passenger side cockpit window. It was about 1/16 inch wide open to outside air. The gray seal had shrunken and pulled the glass at an angle. So I popped the slider out and found that the center frame rail was loose. I was able to gently bump the rail and it slid rearward and I was able to remove the stationary window! As it turns out this rail and glass were installed before the frame was placed into the body. The rail had a mild street screw holding it in at top and bottom. They rusted out. Who would have thought that a steel screw in a channel designed to drain water would rust! Anyone encounter this before? What was your fix and where did you find the replacement Channel Seal? Thanks in advance.

I used a T bracket to refasten the upper frame rail with very carefully placed rivets to not get close to the glass.
The channel seal is available at ODMRV.com , unfortunately it is shaped at different angle than the original.

Beltran · 10-27-2021, 06:34 PM

I am working with HighSkyRv on this issue. Airstream supplies this grey seal and all the suppliers resell it to us. Their product is faulty or mis-labeled. One or the other. The parts manager is trying to get through to the person responsible but she has been on vacation. I hope to hear something from him this week.

You can see my updates here. https://www.airforums.com/forums/f31...-227532-3.html

I would imagine you would have to remove the window frame completely to be able to access the spot where that screw is, and replace it.