Water pump

[pjude]

Where can I find the fuses for the 12V system in a 86 345. I have lost power to the switch in the bath for the water pump and the switch in the kitchen has been removed by the po. There is not an inline fuse and I cannot locate any other fuses other than the chassis fuses in the glove bosx.

[raveson]

In my 89 345 the fuse box location is in the same box that contains the 110v breakers below the kitchen drawer, easy access! They are the same as automotive fuses.

[pjude]

There is nothing below the kitchen drawer other than the converter...(I even pulled the drawer out of the cabinet)I have or say I have looked behind every possible hidding place with no luck. I know there has to be a fuse block somewhere.Pete

[345bill]

Pete, The converter on my 90 345 is located exactly where yours and raveson's (post # 2) are, and that's also where the fuses are, on mine.

We recently got rid of the univolt and installed an Xantrex converter and this one has the fuses still located there but they are covered by a panel that must be removed to access fuses. This cover is simply held on by a single phillips head screw and it's just to the right of the breakers.

Just a guess but maybe yours is similar.

[Chuckles]

We had a 345 in last year for UK Preparation and 12/120/230 volt upgrades. All the 12volt circuits were protected by Circuit Breakers, in a panel below the drawers or in the bottom of the two door cupboard under the sink unit, not fuses. Never found a single fuse!

It may be the CB's are playing up. Sorry I can't tell you which is which as the client has taken the 345 on now, but a simple continuity test across the breakers should show up an open circuit.

Either find the positive then check for 12volts after each breaker or test with continuity lamp/meter across the terminals.

CB's are small "blocks" about 3/4" x 1/2" x 1/8" very approximately (doing this from memory you understand!) You will see them all fixed to "bus-bars" - no wires.

Hope this helps.

[Chuckles]

I have some pictures now but cannot get them out of Outlook onto the forums, so I have tried the PDF approach - let me know if it works!

The pics show the compartment under the oven/cupboard where oven would have been, and a brown metal panel door. The breakers are behind this door. The next picture shows two rows of breakers all joined by a BUS-BAR with a single heavy cable on that. The other side of the breakers are terminals with single wires going to their relevant circuits. on the door is the circuit diagram showing which fuse goes to which.
Hope this helps

[345bill]

Originally Posted by Chuckles

I have some pictures now but cannot get them out of Outlook onto the forums, so I have tried the PDF approach - let me know if it works!

Chuck- pic's came through great.

[pjude]

Hi! Thanks for the pic's but the panel is labeled 120V and not 12V as I need. Also are these breakers resetable? or must they be replaced?
Pete

[Chuckles]

Pete,
If they are open circuit replace them. Generally they reset after a while if there is a cause for them to blow. There are no moving parts or buttons!

[jking]

If your circuit breakers are OEM, they are thermally operated ... get hot and open ("break"), cool off and close (circuit works again). You can make this happen with an ice cube and a heat source, to check each pone for operation. AS paint stripper heat gun works fine. Good luck.
Jamie