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Old 09-02-2015, 12:54 PM   #141
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1994 30' Excella
1992 35' Airstream 350
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I did a little test to see what happens to the panel seam and the rivets on the inside. Click on the picture to see in detail how well the vulkem seals the rivet even on the inside. I doubt there is a chance of any leaks
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:07 PM   #142
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Peter, that's an awesome job you are doing! I think you beat us all when it comes to your skill set!
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:40 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
Peter, that's an awesome job you are doing! I think you beat us all when it comes to your skill set!

Very kind, Dean, thank you!
Like many of us, I just make up the lack of some skill with patience and determination.
Right side final:
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:08 AM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
I did a little test to see what happens to the panel seam and the rivets on the inside. Click on the picture to see in detail how well the vulkem seals the rivet even on the inside. I doubt there is a chance of any leaks
Yep, that should be a non-leaker!
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:23 AM   #145
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Peter...I have resisted, but you have made me do it...

A riveting kit (and de-riveting tool) is on the way from VTS; what have I let myself in for?

First room will be relatively easy - installing the window in the door. At least if I mess up I can replace the door!
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Old 09-03-2015, 12:51 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Peter...I have resisted, but you have made me do it...

A riveting kit (and de-riveting tool) is on the way from VTS; what have I let myself in for?
All sorts of fun and games

Quote:
First room will be relatively easy - installing the window in the door. At
least if I mess up I can replace the door!
I have the same door window task to perform. My 74 came with the same window in the door as was used on the later Classics. It was installed with Olympic rivets so it was definitely a mod that was not done on the regular assembly line. My replacement door came from a 77 or 78 Argosy that was windowless. Like you I really like having a window in the door so I'm moving the window from my old door to the new door.

Brad
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Old 09-03-2015, 01:28 PM   #147
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Austin , Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Peter...I have resisted, but you have made me do it...

A riveting kit (and de-riveting tool) is on the way from VTS; what have I let myself in for?

First room will be relatively easy - installing the window in the door. At least if I mess up I can replace the door!
Martin, I am proud of you and so will you be, once you succeed.
Just remember to dry hang first and if you don't want to buy the clecos, just use rivets in the place of clecos.
BTW, I use a Bosch jig saw with a very nice metal blade to make cut-out. its very controllable and makes very clean cuts
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Old 09-03-2015, 01:31 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
All sorts of fun and games



I have the same door window task to perform. My 74 came with the same window in the door as was used on the later Classics. It was installed with Olympic rivets so it was definitely a mod that was not done on the regular assembly line. My replacement door came from a 77 or 78 Argosy that was windowless. Like you I really like having a window in the door so I'm moving the window from my old door to the new door.

Brad
My 30 amp full service connection sounds better every day, doesn't it Brad?
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Old 09-03-2015, 06:06 PM   #149
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here is a breakdown of the cost to replace the three upper rear panels:
300 Rivets, 4 tubes of Vulkem, 3 panels shipped directly from Airstream
$ 1,700.- incl shipping
Time spent 38 hrs x $0.00=$0

Lets compare that to a written estimate from a Pro Airstream shop
Parts: 2,250.-
Labor: 4,600 ( incidentally the hours quoted are 40 !!!!!!!)
Misc Labor/Materials 180.- (replace and RR driving lights)
Total Estimate $ 7,030.-

7,030.- (shops estimate)
less 1,700 (my material cost)
=5,330 divided by 38 (the hours it took me)
=140.27 my unofficial hourly rate to have a lot of fun, share it all with you guys AND do a better job !!!!!!
something to really think about
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Old 09-03-2015, 06:16 PM   #150
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Thanks for sharing your work and what it cost as well!
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Old 09-03-2015, 06:44 PM   #151
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Nice analysis. Thanks for taking us along in the process Peter. Whether I ever have the need to do it myself or not doesnt matter, the process is really great to see. We Classic motorhome owners are a stubborn and determined bunch no doubt. Maybe a half a bubble off but thats the folks I like to hang with.

Mike
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:03 PM   #152
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Thanks Dean and Mike, over the years I have seen amazing things done by the Motorhome folks and I am proud to be part of this group!
Here are my last pictures on this subject:
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:43 PM   #153
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Beautiful job!! I've enjoyed following the process. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 09-06-2015, 06:49 AM   #154
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Fantastic job!! You have some mad skills when it comes to these classic beauties!
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Old 09-06-2015, 07:50 AM   #155
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Rivet Failure is not an option!

Thanks everyone for the comments! I made an interesting observation:
One can share a project like this "live" or after you succeed, taking pictures and notes on the way.
The live sharing adds an element of elevated skill levels and a more thoughtful process, as in "ok, guys, really pay attention to this detail, it can hurt you down the road"
So, in a way, I credit you as audience in helping me succeed on a superior level.
I did not include the rivet setting/shaving process. You can view some details in an old tutorial of mine from 2002 below.
You may find it interesting that the shaved rivet in the tutorial is the rivet image used next to our names on the forum, just in gold.
REMEMBER NOT TO USE OLYMPIC RIVETS WITH WASHERS, THEY WILL FAIL!!

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...tml#post711305
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Old 09-10-2015, 03:52 AM   #156
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Riveting

Hey Peter, i just saw the old pictures you posted to explain the Olympic rivets.
CONGRATES to your skills!
It is amazing to see your knowledge about our riveted beauties!!!!
I wish, the "fools" from "Airstream4you" in Germany were at least half that helpfull, then you are!
I am for sure a "good" Airstream re-modeler inside the coaches, i rebuilded my "Bangles" (345classic) in the original colours and design, but without the (massive!) fails from the factory, but i was allways afraid to touch her from outside.
Now i bought all the tools and rivets, i found on german EBAY an old compartmentdoor from a trailer.
It was cutten out with some body panel, so i can try and learn on this piece, before i touch the bidy of "Bangles".
I want to install this door (A formaly Batterie compartment, fully flat!) in the Curbside under the awning, to create an "outside entertainment center", or backwards as an "outside shower" for the dog, after a beachday.
I am still unable to post pictures here, so i could share (proudly!), what i have done inside till today.
Have fun, keep on "Airstreaming"😃😃
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Old 09-12-2015, 03:44 PM   #157
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Just ran a foot short of the decal I still had from a previous restoration. Had to come up with something to fill the gap...
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Old 09-12-2015, 03:48 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
here is a breakdown of the cost to replace the three upper rear panels:
300 Rivets, 4 tubes of Vulkem, 3 panels shipped directly from Airstream
$ 1,700.- incl shipping
Time spent 38 hrs x $0.00=$0

Lets compare that to a written estimate from a Pro Airstream shop
Parts: 2,250.-
Labor: 4,600 ( incidentally the hours quoted are 40 !!!!!!!)
Misc Labor/Materials 180.- (replace and RR driving lights)
Total Estimate $ 7,030.-

7,030.- (shops estimate)
less 1,700 (my material cost)
=5,330 divided by 38 (the hours it took me)
=140.27 my unofficial hourly rate to have a lot of fun, share it all with you guys AND do a better job !!!!!!
something to really think about

You did a GREAT job! Looks absolutely perfect! I admire your skills. Well done!
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Old 09-19-2015, 08:44 PM   #159
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Todays challenge was:
Broken exhaust stud extraction without removing the exhaust manifold
1 broken stud
1 sleeve to guide the left handed drill bit
1 left handed drill bit (to increase the chance of the stud drilling itself out)

The idea is to drill a pilot hole using the sleeve guide to stay on center. Then run the engine until hot and start drilling with the left handed drill bit. In many cases it will pull the broken stud.
The left drill bit did not succeed in removing the broken stud, but an easy out did!! Success!
Can't post pictures ATM, but will later
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:39 PM   #160
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Well done.... I have failed at that job before, so will be interested to see your method, especially how your sleeve works.

Are you doing anything to stop the new stud from breaking? Is it the rearmost on the right side?
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