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Old 10-18-2021, 04:43 PM   #1181
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Sounds like you’ve replaced several over the years. My original units are still hanging in there and do a decent job of cooling. But…..I’m sure replacement is in my future at some point. I’ve battled to try and keep the drain lines open and free flowing but sometimes I think they have a mind of their own. I’ve had the interior and exterior covers off both units when I replaced the capacitors but for the life of me I couldnt find the drain line opening from the top side. From inside, I can see the end of the lines. They both attach to and lb and are gooped up with Vulkem. I’ve always been afraid to try and clean that up and separate that joint for fear of breaking the elbow and ending up worse than before. Sometimes they drain just fine but this summer we were parked a little out of level and I was getting some drips inside. I’ve tried using compressed air hooked to a flexible tube from the bottom side but I never know if I’m doing any good or not. I wish I could have found the inlet up top when I had the shrouds off but I looked and looked and couldn’t see a thing.
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Old 10-18-2021, 06:33 PM   #1182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayco View Post
Sounds like youíve replaced several over the years. My original units are still hanging in there and do a decent job of cooling. ButÖ..Iím sure replacement is in my future at some point. Iíve battled to try and keep the drain lines open and free flowing but sometimes I think they have a mind of their own. Iíve had the interior and exterior covers off both units when I replaced the capacitors but for the life of me I couldnt find the drain line opening from the top side. From inside, I can see the end of the lines. They both attach to and lb and are gooped up with Vulkem. Iíve always been afraid to try and clean that up and separate that joint for fear of breaking the elbow and ending up worse than before. Sometimes they drain just fine but this summer we were parked a little out of level and I was getting some drips inside. Iíve tried using compressed air hooked to a flexible tube from the bottom side but I never know if Iím doing any good or not. I wish I could have found the inlet up top when I had the shrouds off but I looked and looked and couldnít see a thing.

Yes, Mike being out of level can cause drips, but not really because of a bad drain, but rather because of the original pan design. It just overflows on 1 side before it can drain via the hose. That is the other drawback of the original design. If the cups of the replacement system over flow they just drain of the side, since they are located on the outside of the seal.
And yes, you are correct, you can not access the drain hose from above. You can however remove your interior cover and careful pour some chlorox in the small drain reservoir above the hose, using some syringe/hose contraption

For a visual, I enclosed 2 drain pan designs, the first being the 80's models and second torn up one was used in the early 90's
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Old 10-18-2021, 07:15 PM   #1183
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Thanks Peter, that it explains why I couldn’t find that dang drain opening.
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Old 10-19-2021, 11:34 AM   #1184
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Peter, that drain kit must fit a variety of different air conditioners. I bought the kit for my AC but haven't installed it yet (and don't plan to). I did install the same kit on the AC unit for Peanut but the instructions require a second seal to be added to the first one which causes the AC to sit considerably higher on the shell.

Without the second seal the drain housings would have rubbed against the shell. To me it was/is a p!ss poor design that was more of an afterthought than a design improvement.

What AC unit do you have?
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Old 10-19-2021, 12:20 PM   #1185
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Seems a shame that the drain pan does not utilize the fact that clearance is larger at the side with a curved roof. If the drain point was at the edge rather than the middle would allow the AC to sit much lower.
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Old 10-19-2021, 04:57 PM   #1186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Peter, that drain kit must fit a variety of different air conditioners. I bought the kit for my AC but haven't installed it yet (and don't plan to). I did install the same kit on the AC unit for Peanut but the instructions require a second seal to be added to the first one which causes the AC to sit considerably higher on the shell.

Without the second seal the drain housings would have rubbed against the shell. To me it was/is a p!ss poor design that was more of an afterthought than a design improvement.

What AC unit do you have?

Low profile penguin II 13.5 btu.
The cups are specifically made for that A/C and what you are describing is indeed an issues, but not as much with the Penguin II. The cups are recessed from the seal contact point by about 1/8 and the curve of the roof gives it even a bit more tolerance.

I looked into added a second seal, which as you said would raise the AC, but it would also cause a problem with the cup drain line not lining up with the second seal. It still would have to run through the first seal.
The factory laminated seal of the penguin II is a lot denser than replacement seals, resulting in much less seal compression when you torque it down to 40-50 inch pound. You may also remember me mentioning the use of 1/2 tube of Vulkem.





Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Seems a shame that the drain pan does not utilize the fact that clearance is larger at the side with a curved roof. If the drain point was at the edge rather than the middle would allow the AC to sit much lower.

Martin, it actually does come into play for the pre wide body MH/trailers. the drains are on the side of the Dometic penguin II's and the cups are mounted just below the drain.
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Old 10-20-2021, 06:28 AM   #1187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-350LE View Post
I looked into added a second seal, which as you said would raise the AC, but it would also cause a problem with the cup drain line not lining up with the second seal. It still would have to run through the first seal.

The instructions actually direct the installer to cut a notch in the first seal for the drain hose to route through prior to adding the second seal.

From my perspective that is a horrible design. I consider it more of a Band-Aid than anything else.
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Old 10-20-2021, 06:42 AM   #1188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
The instructions actually direct the installer to cut a notch in the first seal for the drain hose to route through prior to adding the second seal.

From my perspective that is a horrible design. I consider it more of a Band-Aid than anything else.

I do agree, that is why I called the original Airstream drain pan design brilliant. All of the draining/hose routing happened within the 14" parameter, no seal had to be penetrated.

On a flat roof/wide body a second seal would be a must. My concern with a second seal seal is the chance of it slipping upon installation and causing a leak. The second seal would have to be laminated to the first and dry, before attempting to set the AC down on the roof.
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Old 10-20-2021, 07:21 AM   #1189
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For some reason the wide bodies just don't look right to me. Kinda like a bloated whale

On Peanut I filled the gap in the seal with Trempro to prevent water ingress.
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Old 10-22-2021, 03:12 PM   #1190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
The instructions actually direct the installer to cut a notch in the first seal for the drain hose to route through prior to adding the second seal.

From my perspective that is a horrible design. I consider it more of a Band-Aid than anything else.



But it does work! I forgot to mention that the cup mounting holes need to be redrilled to move the cups as close as possible to the seal. The barb hose fitting needs be inside of the seal and not the hose. The hose by itself would most likely collapse and block the drain
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Old 10-24-2021, 05:40 PM   #1191
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Finally gave up on the original tube Monitor for the back up camera system. Replaced it all with a wireless multi camera system. I opted to mount the camera inside just at the top of the rear window. Keeps it clean and gives me a perfect wireless connection. Also installed a 3 way switch to have a manual over ride to use in route.
I used the existing cable to run power from the switched front power source to the camera in the rear, to keep it from being on all the time.
works great
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Old 11-07-2021, 11:34 AM   #1192
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300 miles after having the tank cleaned....
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Old 11-07-2021, 12:03 PM   #1193
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Did they clean it with a slurry of rust?
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Old 11-07-2021, 12:31 PM   #1194
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Whoa! Is ferric oxide the new tank flush product?
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Old 11-07-2021, 06:25 PM   #1195
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Whoa! Is ferric oxide the new tank flush product?

Not sure what it is, need to talk to the shop. Once it dried its like real fine dirt, much finer than grains of sand.
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Old 11-08-2021, 07:38 AM   #1196
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Not sure what it is, need to talk to the shop. Once it dried its like real fine dirt, much finer than grains of sand.
Is it magnetic?
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Old 11-08-2021, 10:36 AM   #1197
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WOW! That’s horrible. It will be interesting to hear what the shop has to say.
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Old 11-08-2021, 04:10 PM   #1198
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Is it magnetic?

No, just fine dust as powdery as flour
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Old 11-09-2021, 03:59 PM   #1199
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WOW! Thatís horrible. It will be interesting to hear what the shop has to say.

The shop said "tough luck, we do not give any kind of warranty on fuel tank cleaning"

The "new" guy however said that I should have been told to clean the filter after the first 50 miles. So I will keep an eye on it. The good thing is that I installed a fuel shut-off just in front of the filter, making it very fast and easy to change the cartridge.
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Old 11-10-2021, 07:09 AM   #1200
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No, just fine dust as powdery as flour
Sounds like dirt to me. So how did dirt get into your fuel system?
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