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Old 06-27-2015, 04:07 PM   #61
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Peter, I'm really liking what you did. My cabinets are cracking and sagging as well.

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Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
here is a cheap and permanent fix for the sagging plastic overhead cabinets, 1 hour ea and $25.- for the alu strip, screws and rivets. L shape bracket inside the cabinet is riveted to the roof rib.
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Old 06-27-2015, 04:10 PM   #62
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How are you attaching the outside bracket to the in cabinet bracket? Any more pics?
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Old 06-27-2015, 04:51 PM   #63
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Nice fix
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Old 06-27-2015, 04:57 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
How are you attaching the outside bracket to the in cabinet bracket? Any more pics?
Yes, Dean, mine were real bad, I was afraid to load them up.
The center screw is a machine screw with a washer and a nut on the inside, attached to a strap.
The brackets have several pre drilled holes, to maximize the "lift" options.
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Old 06-27-2015, 08:42 PM   #65
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Yep, I need this too, thanks for sharing the idea.
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Old 07-05-2015, 11:35 AM   #66
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Got the heavily modified second dinette bench in place. Had to relocate the three switches, too. Yes, I am a sucker for original Airstream equipment, well, except for the couch, it will have to go eventually.
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Old 07-11-2015, 06:19 AM   #67
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Tackled the main Awning yesterday. The PO had an "accident" and it was open during a heavy downpour.
Not sure if the collapsing awning tube also caused the spring to break and the left awning arm to completely lock up, but I had a hard time getting it to extend.
I can either straighten the tube out the best I can or buy a new one.
Any ideas on how I could reinforce the straightened tube without adding to the thickness?
The tube is 18 gauge Steel, 3" OD and 2 7/8" ID.
I can get a tube that length (268") at a local metal shop for 80.-, but it is 14 gauge steel and I am not sure if the spring and end cap will fit (they require 2 3/4" min)
Ordering the tube from ZipDee is not really an option. My chances to get it to my house looking any better than then one I have are very slim. Been there, done that... Besides the cost of 10.-/foot, it costs a min of $300 to have it shipped.
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:02 AM   #68
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You can put a reinforcing tube on the inside, if
1. You can find one that is an exact fit

2. There is nothing at the end that would prevent inserting the reinforcement.

3. The damage is not so far down the tube that you can't get the inside repair to go into place.

If you can surmount all three of those obstacles, push the reinforcement into place and secure it with a few rivets.

Good luck.
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Old 07-11-2015, 12:01 PM   #69
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What about cutting out the bad section, welding in a new piece and blending it all with a grinder?


-Bill
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Old 07-11-2015, 02:33 PM   #70
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Quote:
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What about cutting out the bad section, welding in a new piece and blending it all with a grinder?


-Bill
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Yes, Bill, that would be an option. The problem is that it is 22 feet long and I would have to build a set up to have it perfectly straight. I think I will go with the 14 gauge steel tube for $70.- locally.
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Old 07-12-2015, 08:02 AM   #71
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The story of the Airstream 310 Jacket

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ga...eet-d_915.html

For what it's worth, here's a chart with dimensions for various metals. Hope it's some help!

Essentially a 3" 14ga tubing section would be 2.83" ID (which should accommodate the 2-3/4" need).

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Old 07-17-2015, 07:06 PM   #72
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the $18 fix.
Bought 8' 15 gauge Galvanized fence post. The 2 3/8 OD just barely made it past bend section of the old awning tube. I had to beat it hard to go in there. Riveted it to the old tube and now I have the strongest 22' Awning I have ever seen. Got a slight wobble, but so what. Next project
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Old 07-17-2015, 07:52 PM   #73
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Nothing like getting a little creative

Looks good!
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Old 07-19-2015, 12:01 AM   #74
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Peter... You PROMISED I could use a hammer!!!! And you didn't call!!!

Hahah. Probably very smart!!!
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:17 PM   #75
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Quote:
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Peter... You PROMISED I could use a hammer!!!! And you didn't call!!!

Hahah. Probably very smart!!!
Careful what you wish for, Channing

This is what I found under my couch, accessible by 2 doors on the outside:
4 , I repeat four leveling jacks. Thats what I suppose they are, or they even could be used as a Jack to change a tire. says max 7500 pounds.
But why 4. The most I can ever imagine to level a rig would be using 2.
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Old 07-28-2015, 08:45 PM   #76
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Air compressor installation help, please

This 310 came without an air compressor, bags are new and holding air.
I was looking the Viair 450C IG that Dan recommended, but after looking at the specs I would have to run 25 feet of 6 gauge wire from the battery.
The Viair 250C IG would only require 10 gauge wire for up to 30'. I think that unit should be sufficient.
This is all what is left from the old system:
A Fumas pressure control switch and 12 Volt wire (ignition on)
Can I use that kind of pressure control switch with the new compressor and what kind of Relay should I use?
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Old 07-28-2015, 08:55 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
This 310 came without an air compressor, bags are new and holding air.
I was looking the Viair 450C IG that Dan recommended, but after looking at the specs I would have to run 25 feet of 6 gauge wire from the battery.
The Viair 250C IG would only require 10 gauge wire for up to 30'. I think that unit should be sufficient.
This is all what is left from the old system:
A Fumas pressure control switch and 12 Volt wire (ignition on)
Can I use that kind of pressure control switch with the new compressor and what kind of Relay should I use?
There should be nothing wrong with using the existing pressure switch.

This is the style of relay I used on the 310 when I made the compressor wiring changes. Adding that 25' of 10 gauge wire from the chassis battery to the air compressor along with the relay was probably the single best and cheapest suspension improvement that I made to the 310.
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:13 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
There should be nothing wrong with using the existing pressure switch.

This is the style of relay I used on the 310 when I made the compressor wiring changes. Adding that 25' of 10 gauge wire from the chassis battery to the air compressor along with the relay was probably the single best and cheapest suspension improvement that I made to the 310.
Thanks, Brad.
Just to make sure I understand: Relay activated by ignition sends power from battery to pressure switch?
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:16 PM   #79
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Yes. The relay will carry the heavy current. The relay is controlled by the "pressure switch".

I would not hesitate running a heavier gauge wire as you will have a more reliable and durable setup. Also, if you find "need" for 12vdc in that area you will have the power there!

Get a "Blue Sea" distribution box.
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:33 PM   #80
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Quote:
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Thanks, Brad.
Just to make sure I understand: Relay activated by ignition sends power from battery to pressure switch?
You got it. What I did on the 310 was used the yellow from the fuse block to drive the relay.

I mounted the relay right next to the compressor in the electrical compartment. Made things easy.
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