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Old 01-05-2020, 08:29 AM   #741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
Found this close to the tank, old secondary fuel pump remnants?
This is what it's supposed to look like

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Old 01-09-2020, 06:09 AM   #742
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Anyone may have a clue, where I could find the fuel pump relay? I have no power at the original brown wire that is supposed to be the ignition controlled feed.

Some dumb ass appears to have temporarily wired the pump power to the sending unit, melting it down and maybe blowing something on the other end. Checked fuses to no avail. Lucky that idiot didn't blow himself up.
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Old 01-09-2020, 06:50 AM   #743
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Dumb Ass, I love it.....we use that saying around here all the time, especially at work ! Glad to see it used elsewhere ! Your fuel pump relay may be combined with your oil pressure switch wiring. Youll have to poke around.....Regards, Bob
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Old 01-09-2020, 08:13 AM   #744
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Huh, someone out there is called Dumb Ass; not anyone I know in this group. Must be my American cousin as I'm a Pigheaded Brit.

Glad to have helped with the fuel. Siphoning can be messy.

Cheers
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Old 01-09-2020, 03:49 PM   #745
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If I remember the TBI wiring correctly the oil pressure switch is an input to the PCM. The fuel pump relay is an output from the PCM. I do not believe there is a direct wiring connection between the oil pressure switch and the fuel pump. But a 1992 TBI could be different than a 1994 TBI.

Normally I think the PCM determines whether the pump should be allowed to run based on oil pressure and ignition switch position. The caveat to that is when you first turn the ignition key to the On, the fuel pump relay should turn on for 2 seconds to pressurize the system. After 2 seconds if there is no oil pressure the pump will turn off, IF you are not in the ignition Start position.

I'm pretty sure the pump will run as long as you're in the Start position. If you haven't achieved oil pressure when you move back to the On position then the pump will definitely stop.

One thing you can do to test this is to remove the large battery cable at the starter so the starter can't engage. Turn the ignition switch to the Start position and listen for the pump. That is off course if you can find the relay


Clear as mud, right?!

Brad
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Old 01-10-2020, 02:03 PM   #746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
If I remember the TBI wiring correctly the oil pressure switch is an input to the PCM. The fuel pump relay is an output from the PCM. I do not believe there is a direct wiring connection between the oil pressure switch and the fuel pump. But a 1992 TBI could be different than a 1994 TBI.

Normally I think the PCM determines whether the pump should be allowed to run based on oil pressure and ignition switch position. The caveat to that is when you first turn the ignition key to the On, the fuel pump relay should turn on for 2 seconds to pressurize the system. After 2 seconds if there is no oil pressure the pump will turn off, IF you are not in the ignition Start position.

I'm pretty sure the pump will run as long as you're in the Start position. If you haven't achieved oil pressure when you move back to the On position then the pump will definitely stop.

One thing you can do to test this is to remove the large battery cable at the starter so the starter can't engage. Turn the ignition switch to the Start position and listen for the pump. That is off course if you can find the relay


Clear as mud, right?!

Brad

Yup, I got it. This would, among other things, explain why there is no power to the fuel pump wire with the key in "on" position. I just need to make it in 2 seconds from the drivers seat to the wire by the fuel pump.
Or may be I connect a horn..., right Tony?
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Old 01-10-2020, 02:14 PM   #747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
Huh, someone out there is called Dumb Ass; not anyone I know in this group. Must be my American cousin as I'm a Pigheaded Brit.

Glad to have helped with the fuel. Siphoning can be messy.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

I almost cancelled the deal, when the PO told me he hired a mobile mechanic and his "sidekick" to pull the tank and replace the fuel pump, which they claimed they did in a days work. Probably easy to do if you just skip connecting a few hoses and wires, don't clamp down the already leaky filler hose and cross thread a few mounting nuts.

As you can clearly see now, Tony, your honorary title awarded to you because of your excellent achievements makes you stand out in the crowd of failures and dumb asses
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Old 01-11-2020, 05:50 AM   #748
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Bad storm blew through last night, but we were spared with just some much needed rain.
Can anyone guess whats hiding under the covers?
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Old 01-11-2020, 11:12 AM   #749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
......

Normally I think the PCM determines whether the pump should be allowed to run based on oil pressure and ignition switch position. The caveat to that is when you first turn the ignition key to the On, the fuel pump relay should turn on for 2 seconds to pressurize the system. After 2 seconds if there is no oil pressure the pump will turn off, IF you are not in the ignition Start position.

I'm pretty sure the pump will run as long as you're in the Start position. If you haven't achieved oil pressure when you move back to the On position then the pump will definitely stop.

......

Brad



Its magic and you Sir Brad are just awesome!! Original wire works just like that. The morons never had to run the new wire and lay it on the exhaust system. They measured the voltage to the fuel gauge and deemed it to be too low. The connected the original fuel pump wire to the sending unit and blew it up.
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Old 01-11-2020, 08:04 PM   #750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
Bad storm blew through last night, but we were spared with just some much needed rain.
Can anyone guess whats hiding under the covers?
I know it's not a 20' Argosy
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Old 01-11-2020, 08:09 PM   #751
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Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
Its magic and you Sir Brad are just awesome!! Original wire works just like that. The morons never had to run the new wire and lay it on the exhaust system. They measured the voltage to the fuel gauge and deemed it to be too low. The connected the original fuel pump wire to the sending unit and blew it up.
Amazing that people like that can keep a job.

Glad to hear you got the pump system sorted out. Anything to report on the gauge and sending unit?
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Old 01-11-2020, 08:49 PM   #752
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Amazing that people like that can keep a job.

Glad to hear you got the pump system sorted out. Anything to report on the gauge and sending unit?

Sending unit is working with the after market gauge, so I can wait to switch to the telpro until I dig into the dash.
I had some problems with a couple of hoses getting pinched, since I switched to external fuel pump. I had to lower the tank 2 more times on the passenger side only, to reach the top and see what was going on. The outlets on the new sending unit assembly are very tight, due to the huge emission return outlet. Hoses cross and get pinched by the extremely tight space. I finally had to add a 1/4" spacer under the front mounting bolts to remedy this problem.

Now everything is working as it should and can remove the new wire they ran from the top of the muffler.
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Old 01-18-2020, 07:48 PM   #753
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Whats the trick to remove the cab side panels?
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Old 01-18-2020, 08:05 PM   #754
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Whats the trick to remove the cab side panels?
Cab side panels, being the drivers and passengers arm rest interior side panels, beside the dash?

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Old 01-19-2020, 06:43 AM   #755
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Cab side panels, being the drivers and passengers arm rest interior side panels, beside the dash?

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
Yes, the big panels under the side cap windows, some have controls, cig sockets and map pockets.
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Old 01-19-2020, 07:04 AM   #756
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The panels on the 86 345 were screwed, glued, and stapled to the aluminum skin. I didn't exactly destroy them when I removed them but they weren't exactly pristine when I finally got them off.
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Old 01-19-2020, 07:29 AM   #757
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The panels on the 86 345 were screwed, glued, and stapled to the aluminum skin. I didn't exactly destroy them when I removed them but they weren't exactly pristine when I finally got them off.

I was afraid of that. I am really just trying to remove the padded vinyl and already destroyed several snap in plastic tabs, but it seems to be really stuck, glued or screwed to the front, inaccessible by the padded dash.
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Old 01-19-2020, 08:02 AM   #758
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I was afraid of that. I am really just trying to remove the padded vinyl and already destroyed several snap in plastic tabs, but it seems to be really stuck, glued or screwed to the front, inaccessible by the padded dash.
I do know the side panels are installed before the dash is put into place which makes it next to impossible to access the side panel fasteners.
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Old 01-19-2020, 08:13 AM   #759
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Old 01-19-2020, 11:00 AM   #760
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Thanks for pictures, Brad. Scary to look at

I checked the oil and replaced the cracked coolant reservoir and finally took the 350 for a spin today, first time ever. Runs great, shifts well and keeps the temp at 200 (at 60 outside temps...). Noisy power steering and Airbags too high. All gauges operating, even the entry and exit oil cooler aftermarket gauges.

Hardly any play in the front end (it was rebuilt) and the steer safe keeps it straight.

Onward...
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