the list

[choctawmel]

We all have our list of things to do to our Motorhomes. Mine include things like: place shower door, rebuild/replace sewer valves, get more power out of engine, tighten springs on shore line/hose reel .....

Then without warning the list get a new top idem: The power step jumps right ou there.

It hasn't been extending or re-tracking all the way for some time. Matter of fact I think about putting it on the list every time I'm in it. Well it's at the top now. Pulled it out of it's nest to get to the sewer and caught the not quite re-tracked step on the barn door.
I think I killed it.
Attachment 377428
Attachment 377429
Attachment 377430

Didn't have much success in bending it back.
It's a Kwikee model 2500-8300. Least that's what the manual for it says it is.
PPLmotorhomes.com sell them... after waiting for 25 minutes to hear them have that 'deer in headlight' sound. They gave me the Kwikee phone number. Called Kwikee and within 15 minute I have the replacement: series 32, P/N 372261; $750.95.
This is what LLP shows: https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/...ch-kit_3722616


Any other options?

[choctawmel]

They gave me the 'both first cousin' discount and with shipping it's ONLY $700.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by choctawmel

They gave me the 'both first cousin' discount and with shipping it's ONLY $700.

Wow! Ten years ago I ordered two of them and paid $700 for both delivered.

[Roby466]

check out youngfartrvparts.com
(I know, the name sounds like a joke) They are in Canada and have used parts, lots of it. They may have something for you.
Cheers
David

[choctawmel]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Wow! Ten years ago I ordered two of them and paid $700 for both delivered.

It may look like it from the news today, but we're not living in the '60's anymore.

[choctawmel]

Originally Posted by Roby466

check out youngfartrvparts.com
(I know, the name sounds like a joke) They are in Canada and have used parts, lots of it. They may have something for you.
Cheers
David

I thinks it's a cool name. but the link don't work
I added an 's' thinking maybe their was more than one fart and there it is.

Thanks

[Roby466]

Sorry about that... yep there are two young farts so the s was a must.

The proper link is:

https://youngfartsrvparts.ca

[choctawmel]

My new step arrives tomorrow..... If you can believe the tracking info. Got under and started identifying the wires for to the step. Once again another example of the fine workmanship at AS back in the day. They show a plug but then that was too much to do back then. So the look is the same as when you pull the dash back for the first time.

Identified all but 2 wires and they must the ing on and on/off swt to. The door swt wires got my dandruff up. Hope the new step is a little better on the wiring side than the old.

Got to go find a BIG Phillips bite/driver in morning. Maybe a #3 Phillips. Hope I don't have to run an SnapOn truck off the road to get one.

[bobmiller1]

You need a FPS32E, fits those truss bolts perfectly, been there, done that.....Regards, Bob

[choctawmel]

Got to the business of ripping the step out. Went to 'Steve's Tools' in OKC, OK and bought the biggest Phillips screw driver they had. With the help of vise-grips 3 bolts came out easy. The last one was ASed in right next to a 1/4" bolt that held the controller on. The 5/16' nut was on top of the 1/4" nut. Socket wouldn't go on, so out came the drive and the bolt was history. Don't think I'll use those bolts again anyway.




Didn't need the bolts of hold them in the sealer was more than up to the test. Think it took as long to get the sealer to give up as it did to get bolts out. Need some of would ever the sealer is to go back together.
I tried to identify the wires as best I could as I cut them. A couple are a mystery. I sure the big wire is ignition on but the little wire?????
Now I wait for the big UPS truck to come.
Just checked UPS and it still shows 'in transit'. So maybe Monday.

[choctawmel]

Got the wife to push the buttons and flip the switches while I checked and labeled all the wires. Here want I found:

12v battery comes down the frame rail;

From the latch side of the door come 4 wires: 2 wires go to/from the 'kill' switch. A the 3rd goes to the dash light. The 4th comes from the porch switch too the step light.

On the hang side are 2 wires. 1 goes the auto door switch and the other I don't know. It should be the ignition on 12v, but no 12v is present with the ignition on. It used to work, so guess I'll wire it up and see...... When the step get here that is.

[choctawmel]

Got the new step in and installed. Had to weld a 2X2" angle iron so the door frame bottom has support. Looks good.

Just one problem: open the door and the steps retract, close the door and the steps extend. The original auto close push swt must be common closed. Going to drill the rivets out of the swt and I'm hopping the swt has another terminal to make it common open. It not the steps came with a magnetic swt that I'll try to fish through.

[Smartstream]

That door switch is available as either normally open or normally closed. https://www.elecdirect.com/cole-hers...nger-7-16-long
A change from one to the other should fix the problem. The 9001 & 9002 use screw terminals and 9269 & 9270 use blade terminals.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by choctawmel

Got the new step in and installed. Had to weld a 2X2" angle iron so the door frame bottom has support. Looks good.

Just one problem: open the door and the steps retract, close the door and the steps extend. The original auto close push swt must be common closed. Going to drill the rivets out of the swt and I'm hopping the swt has another terminal to make it common open. It not the steps came with a magnetic swt that I'll try to fish through.

Had the same problem with the 310. The existing switch has +12 volts on it and the new steps are expecting to see a ground signal.

As Dan said, you'll need a different switch with one side of the switch going to ground and the other side going to the steps.

I don't remember if you need a normally closed NC or a normally open NO switch. Somewhere in the thread I posted when I changed the steps I think I mentioned what type of switch to use.

[choctawmel]

Got the 'commonly open' door switch on order. The original swt quit working anyway.



Kept checking my wiring because with the 'kill swt' off the step kept working and the dash light stayed on. Finely decided the 'kill swt work backwards too: with the swt on the step don't work... with the swt off it works..

Now the last (I hope) problem: I lost ignition 12V. Anyone have any idea where AS gets the ignition 12v?. I'm betting it's another case for a failed crimp connector. Would think the wire would run up the frame but no it goes into the wall at the door hinge side. I think every wire in this thing was run by a different person that spoke a different language.

[choctawmel]

Finished the step and started looking for a good place to get ignition 12v. Thought the secondary started solenoid was an ing on solenoid.. Don't I remember their being a ing on solenoid somewhere? I have one circuit breaker behind the grill that's switched ignition.

[choctawmel]

Got a wire pulled from the front to the step for the ignition. And it works!!!!!
It does work differen than the original:
*turn the kill swt 'on' to turn the step auto close 'off'
*with the step off it still operates when the door is opened. This is a good thing being I have done a face plant once or twice when I stepped out without turning the kill swt back 'on'
*The steps are twice as deep so your whole foot has surface area which is much better for us old farts that like to fall at the drop of a hat. Maybe worth the $$$ for that reason alone.

[choctawmel]

We're on a road trip to Arkansas. First thing to break: NO HOT WATER!!! The flame lights then goes out. I'm thinking it's the flame detector is bad. I search the internet but find nothing.
Next I go to pull the main awning out and the pull strap tears off.
So now the list is:
dump valves replacement(got one other on back order), awning replacement(been on my list for a long time), hot water tank replacement, generator fixed (by someone other than Cummins), shower door replacement, pitman arms replacement, find leak from top clearance lights.....

Then to top of that one of the kitchen draws fell apart. Seems the good folk at AS make them out of particle board and the only think that keeps them together is the plastic wood grain that covers them.
On a happy note, the wife drive for the first time and we got 11.8mpg.

[choctawmel]

Spent over an hour on hold waiting for an Atwood person. Was told I needed a p/n 93868 which I ordered from Amazon for $19.99. It was on my porch when I got home today. But it ain't what I need. Found an old diagram that show a p/n 91606 which on Amazon comes up a gas valve.

Went to Ebay and found 2 p/n 91606 one for $51.70 the other for $24.99 but the pictures don't look like what I have. Sent an email to Atwood. Maybe I'll get another person that knows better. Don't really want to repalce the water heater at $573.
Maybe I'll take my part and go to camper world and see what they have.

[choctawmel]

Went to Camper World. No help.

Did remember an RV/mobel home/hardware store in south OKC. Called and they have the 'Duel electrode spark probe $35. Still not the same connector but will try it anyway. All installed and NOT FIXED!!!!
Now I need a board. But what board? I take the board box off and it turns out to be a replacement: 'Dinosaur universal ignition board'. No wonder nothing fits that's Atwood parts.
So, do I buy another $110 plus for a board for a 34 year old water heater only to find the ($230)valve is bad or go for a new one.
But which ONE!!
I thought I'd found a new GH-4E for $730+- but now I can't find it again. Hate to call Atwood again. That takes 1 1/2 hours to do and they don't read emails very often.
Not sure they make the engine heater feature. I think the atwood 96136 has the exchanger. https://www.rvpartscountry.com/Atwoo...r-lp-gas.html# $593.48


I think it's Miller Time!