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Old 03-30-2017, 06:03 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
I dont think using the channel in this link http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MPRM90 is the best way to go for your cab windows. It is fine for the other windows For the cab the gap is too wide and the window will not fit right. That stuff also has problems buckling going around corners.
I have used this stuff for 3 vehicles. http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1302
The new version uses a stiff nylon backing not metal. It is pricier and a pain to install but the final results are better.
I guess everyone has their own experience, but if you would have read my thread, on how to properly install the flocked rubber channel liner, you would not have made the comment above.
Granted, i did not know that they quit using metal in Schlegle.
Here is Martins experience with puckered corners:


[/QUOTE]
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer
I let you decide. The one on the right is the vertical seal on Motorhome cockpit windows,
VERTICAL LIP SEAL GRAY #6010-12 MOTORHOME SLIDING WINDOW
the middle appears to be your wrap around and the one on the left is obviously the schlaegle felt replacement, which can be ordered in different sizes on the site I shared. This has a width of 3/8", if I remember correctly


The two grey seals are what I used in Bella's windows. The Schlegle was replaced by AS NE so I'm not sure where they sourced it from. I would say the seal that simply pushes into the outer channel appears to serve no function other than encourage water to say outside the channel, but even if it gets in the channel it comes out of the weep holes. I guess it also stops crud building up in the channel. One thing AS NE didn't do but I have seen others have is cut the Schlegle as it goes around the bends to stop it puckering up....I wish they had, but they are supposed to be the Airstream repair shop!
09-10-2016, 02:40 PM #31 PeterH-Airstreamer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662
The two grey seals are what I used in Bella's windows. The Schlegle was replaced by AS NE so I'm not sure where they sourced it from. I would say the seal that simply pushes into the outer channel appears to serve no function other than encourage water to say outside the channel, but even if it gets in the channel it comes out of the weep holes. I guess it also stops crud building up in the channel. One thing AS NE didn't do but I have seen others have is cut the Schlegle as it goes around the bends to stop it puckering up....I wish they had, but they are supposed to be the Airstream repair shop!


Martin,
The more expensive Schlegle pushed by Airstream dealers with the metal inside can not be cut at the corners, hence the increased difficulty operating the windows ..
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09-10-2016, 02:46 PM #32 martin300662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer
Martin,
The more expensive Schlegle pushed by Airstream dealers with the metal inside can not be cut at the corners, hence the increased difficulty operating the windows ..


I guess I will have to live with the 'puckers' then Peter!
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Old 03-30-2017, 07:24 AM   #122
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Here's links to some of the part numbers listed in the chart I posted earlier.

Fin seal (VTS-277)

Vertical lip seal (VTS-129)

Vertical lip seal (684919)

Trim seal (685044)

Fuzzy Seal between windows and screens (683946)

Fuzzy seal between windows and screens (34658)

Fuzzy schlegle - all rubber (Recommended by Peter) (AS1286)

Fuzzy schlegle - all rubber (Appears to be the same as above) (AS1286)

Fuzzy schlegle - similar to original but no metal (684910)
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Old 03-30-2017, 11:41 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Wayne, could you expand on the "pain to install" comment!
It was a while ago but when I did the cab windows in both my 77 Argosies. The rigid channel material was tight fitting into the aluminum channel, and it took some effort to scoot the channel in under the window glass. I am still waiting for better weather to do the 84 Airstream.
That said, the soft channel material may slide in the channel easier than the rigid stuff.
If you are in a cold weather zone, wait for a good warm day to do the job. Rubber and old glue will be a bit more flexible to work with.
I have cut off some sections of both types of channel material.
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Old 03-30-2017, 01:06 PM   #124
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Wayne, thanks for the pics. It's interesting at how different the profiles are because of the steel insert.

Right now I have both cockpit sliders out and from the looks of the junk in the channels it's going to take some time to get them cleaned up. Fortunately my Argosy is in the shop so no rain worries

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 03-30-2017, 01:11 PM   #125
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All fine and dandy but nobody has explained to me why they call it "fuzzy schlegle"? Why not "fuzzy woernle"?

Anyone?

Cheers
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Old 03-30-2017, 03:28 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
All fine and dandy but nobody has explained to me why they call it "fuzzy schlegle"? Why not "fuzzy woernle"?

Anyone?

Cheers
Tony
I believe it is the company name that makes the "Fuzzy Schlegel"
http://www.schlegel.com/
if you enter http://woernle.com the results are not as good
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Old 05-15-2017, 08:13 AM   #127
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1991 or 92, 93 Service Manual

Hi all,

Does anyone have an electronic copy of the 1991 or 92, 93 Service Manual. I've got the Airstream owners manual, chassis, chevy service guides, but would like the Aistream service guide if available. Please PM me if you can help.
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Old 06-29-2017, 02:48 PM   #128
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Good stuff over on the Barth forums

http://truckroadservice.com/barth_at...81_GM_P-30.pdf

http://truckroadservice.com/barth_at...vice_part1.pdf
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Old 09-10-2017, 08:57 PM   #129
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Never noticed the Paint code Spreadsheet before at:
http://www.airstream.com/service/document-archive/
check it out:
https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...c78db5c5de.pdf

Also has 1990 Service manual, BoomSound
https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...9bb3cbe6fc.pdf
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:01 PM   #130
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I am attempting to put together a Word/PDF printable Motorhome inspection guide....

This will be based on my experience of buying, owning and inspecting them.

I have been playing with many formats from simple to complex.... and simple just doesn't cut it, so its maybe deep, and large to cover so much!

Here is what I did so far, and its just the start of the guide covering pre-inspection contact, and exterior visual....
Post or PM me with thoughts, comments, and ideas!
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:02 PM   #131
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Buying a Classic Airstream Motorhome!

This Guide, and checklist is intended to break down the process of inspecting a 1980 through 1990’s through 90’s Airstream Classic Motorhome.

It is intended as a general guide for potential Buyers and 3rd party inspectors. How to spot the good and bad, on an Airstream Classic Motorhome.
I/We take no responsibility for accuracy, errors or omissions from this guide. The ultimate responsibility lies with the buyer, and we suggest a professional Vehicle Inspector, RV Expert or Mechanic.

It is mainly focused on the Chevy P30 based 20’ though 36’ versions, although some of the process could be used on earlier Argosy models, the Gillig based 370, and also some of the Pusher Chassis, and later Aluminum bodied Land Yacht models.

There are 3 sections, to this guide;
1/ Visual Inspection Process of Interior and Exterior, and repair costs.
2/ Visual Inspection of Mechanical/Electrical/House systems, and repair costs.
3/ Road test, system function tests, and repair costs.

I use the $ sign for a approximate reference point on price in 2017.
Please note that this is for parts only, but where I have an idea of fitting costs I have added that as a approximate guide.

$ is up to $100
$$ is up to $200
$$$ is up to $300
And so on.

$k is up to $1000.
$$k is up to $2000
$$$k is up to $3000
Plus + is more than.
Minus - Is less than, or up to.

Make sense?

I am going to assume before looking you read the “Sticky” Post at the top of the Classic Motorhome Tread, which gives a brief overview?

I suggest you print out this checklist, put it on a clip board, and note down, or tick each section as you go:
Things to take:
Notepad, Camera with enough memory and batteries, DMM, 120v plug circuit tester, Step ladder, Movers Blanket to lay on, and one of the best is another pair of eyes.

Before you go to look, ask these questions, and get the answers.

Title, and Ownership.
Does the seller have title, and is the title in their name, and free and clear?
Is there a lien, or any impediment to sell?
NEVER buy sight unseen online. If the price is too good to be true, it normally is a scam.

How long have they owned it?
Mileage when they bought it and now?
Who did they buy if from, and do they know the history?
Do they have service history, receipts, or notes on work done, and when?
When did they last use it?
Where, and how is the Motorhome stored usually?
Any known issues, or damage?
What works, and what does not?
Why are they selling it?
Confirm the asking price?
Are there other parties coming to look, and when?
I like to ask what their timing is, and what the bottom line is!



Exterior Checks.
I would divide the Motorhome into 9 parts mentally:
1/ Front.
2/ RH Front Quarter.
3/ RH Bodyside.
4/ Entrance Door.
5/ RH Rear Quarter.
6/ Rear.
7/ LH Rear Quarter.
8/ LH Bodyside,
9/ LH Front Quarter.

Walk the whole exterior slowly at ground level, clockwise is my choice.
Visually scan the visual bodywork from the lower edge, to above the window line.
When I say “Note”, I mean write down, and or photograph each section. You would be wise to know, or have a record of this for later.

Note:
Panel damage, or repairs such as Dents, Corrosion, missing rivets, unusual Rivets, or patches.
Panel paint condition, or hidden damage.
Damaged, missing or loose Body side Moldings, mid and lower.
Wrap damage or deterioration (plastic parts between bumper and bodywork)
Wrap Paint condition.
Windows, and Doors or compartment door condition, fit and finish.
Glass Condition. Look for cracks or fogging of the windshields, windows, and condition of seals, and tap to be sure its glass, not Lexan!
Condition of Headlights, Tail lights, side markers, and reflectors.

Roof.
Get on a step ladder and look at the roof, one section at a time, as above from both sides.
Note:
Hail, dents, or other damage.
Condition of AC units and covers.
Leaks, or stains from AC units running down shell.
Condition of vent covers.
Sealant around apertures, fans, and vents.
Condition of Running lights, Spot lamp, and Rear view camera, and mountings.

General Compartment check.
Unlock and pull out each storage compartment.
Do they lock, and are keys present?
Check for smooth opening.
Check floors for leaks, rust, and holes.

Battery Compartment.
Should be minimum of 3x batteries. 1 Chassis Battery, and 2 House batteries (DeepCycle/Marine).
Check for rust in the floor.
Check battery condition visually and with DMM. 12.6V minimum.
Check for Battery Isolators.

Genset Compartment.
Note model, and size. OEM was Kohler, and Onan
Up to 31’ normally 4000/5000w.
32.5 up is normally 6000/7000w.
Note Hour meter reading.
Check for oil leaks, gas leaks or smell, and bad wiring.
Functional tests later.

Wheels and Tires:
Note each wheel type and condition.
Steels with SS covers were Standard, and Alcoa Style alloy are an Upgrade.
Drive axle inner wheel maybe steel regardless of outers.
Note each tire for the following Size, condition, and DOT date stamp.
Look thru wheel if possible and note condition of brake rotor/caliper.
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Old 11-11-2017, 08:09 AM   #132
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Sent you some minor comments, looks like a great start, this will be very useful for me!

I use word extensively on a daily basis, including all those features normal people don't touch or know exist, so if you want to turn this into a legit small book I'd be more than happy to format it up real purdy and export as a pdf as well
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Old 11-27-2017, 10:36 AM   #133
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I have a prelim draft of the Inspection Guide done....
Anything I missed or need to add???
Attached Files
File Type: docx AIRSTREAM Checklist 1.docx (28.0 KB, 39 views)
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:24 PM   #134
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Steve said some people might be having trouble opening that, so here's the exact same thing as a pdf
Attached Files
File Type: pdf AIRSTREAM Checklist 1.pdf (279.1 KB, 51 views)
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Old 02-26-2018, 08:53 AM   #135
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Just a thought, is there any classic motorhome specific winterizing info?

I came here first to check, didn't see anything
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Old 02-26-2018, 11:56 AM   #136
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Looks like nothing really classic specific, but this thread looks like a good reference
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Old 03-02-2018, 12:21 PM   #137
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Ok, over the last few months I've learned a lot (more than I ever wanted!) about Argosy and Classic windows. Three issues have caused the most headaches.

The 1st is the Fuzzy Schlegel track, the 2nd is the Fin Seal between the two panes of glass and the 3rd is the Wool Pile used on the screens.

The Fuzzy Schlegel track has already been discussed in length in previous posts and I've come to the conclusion that the original style metal Fuzzy Schlegel is best for the Argosies and per Peter the newer metal-less style is better for the Classics. The real issue with the Fin Seals and Wool Pile seals is actually finding the correct ones. The Fin Seals being sold by the various Airstream suppliers are just flat wrong and won't work properly, period. I can safely say every Fin Seal and Wool Pile seal that I've ordered has been wrong. As for the Wool Pile seals I don't believe I could find any at the various Airstream suppliers.

The Fin Seal that goes between the two panes of glass seems to have been the same on both the Argosy and Classic windows. However the installation method is completely different. On the Argosy windows the Fin Seal is pushed down into a groove and held in place by being trapped in the groove. Oddly enough on the Classic windows the Fin Seal is glued into place. Of the two my preference is the groove method.

The Wool Pile seal that goes on the screens appears to be the same on both the Argosy and Classic windows. The installation method is the same on both where they seal is pushed into a groove like the Fin Seals on the Argosy windows.

After many evenings of using Google to find appropriate replacement materials I believe I've found suitable replacements.

Fin Seal suitable for between windows on Argosy and Classics
Closest to original I can find and probably best for the Classic.
Fin Seal

Should work just as well and probably easier to install on an Argosy.
Fin Seal


Pile Seal possibly suitable for screens on Argosy & Classics
Possibly .030" to short in height
Wool Pile
Wool Pile

Possibly .020" to tall
Wool Pile


Here are some pictures of the Fin Seals and Wool Pile Seals that I removed from both the Argosy and Classic windows.

Argosy Fin Seal
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Classic Fin Seal
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Argosy Pile Seal
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Classic Pile Seal
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The Classic Pile Seal appears to be a little more plush but the basic measurements are the same. There appears to be a definite difference in quality between the two and the Classic seems to be the better more modern version.

The dimensions that I came up with for the Fin Seals are .270" wide and .250" tall with a mylar type wiper in the center of the fuzzy.

For the Wool Pile Seals I came up with .270" wide and about .375" tall.

Fin Seal dimensions as supplied by various Airstream suppliers is .190" wide and .150" tall. Not even close to what's needed.

Back in 2007 or so when I was working on one of the 310 bedroom windows I remember ordering all of the Fin Seals, Wool Pile Seals and the Fuzzy Schlegel from InlandRV and everything fit just fine. Unfortunately I couldn't seem to find the correct Fin and Wool Pile seals this time around on Inland's site.

Please note, when I refer to the Classic motorhomes I'm implying up to around 88 or 89. I know the 86 345 windows are the same as the 84 310 windows that I worked on. It's hard to say what Airstream might have done to the windows as newer models were made. Don't take what I've written here as gospel because as we've all found out over the years is Airstream made many changes and I've seen no logical reason to a great many of them!

Brad
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Old 03-02-2018, 12:26 PM   #138
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Argosy window Fin Seal installation
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Classic window Fin Seal installation
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Classic and Argosy Wool Pile installation
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Old 03-02-2018, 08:13 PM   #139
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Brad, thanks for compiling all that info. It seems that you now confirmed that on the classics, the fin seal is just glued to the window and not inserted into a channel. If that is the case why would the width matter much on the classics. To me it seems it all boils down to using the right type of adhesive to make sure that the sliding action does not dislodge them. If I would be looking at doing the fin seal now (after seeing it fail with Black 3m weatherstripping/adhesive), I would use this 3M Plastic/emblem instead:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08061-Plas...decal+adhesive

I have used it many times over the years for many different and difficult applications. It dries clear, sets very fast and is extremely strong. I think I used it years ago on the 79, but may have "forgotten" to use it on the 310 and used black 3M instead, which failed shortly after.
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Old 03-03-2018, 06:34 AM   #140
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Peter,

I don't think the width of the Fin Seal will matter to much however the height certainly will. What's being sold by the Airstream suppliers is .100" to short. If it's to short it won't contact the other window pane allowing moisture, dust and bugs to get through.


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