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Old 02-07-2016, 11:42 AM   #81
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1974 20' Argosy 20
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Originally Posted by Tap View Post
Brad, you have been hugely helpful! Man, I appreciate it so much. Especially having the direct link to the fuel pump on eBay. I clicked on it and bought it right away.

Next question, where can I buy the correct electric fuel pump? Do you have a link to that?

Also, where do you recommend I buy the 10 feet each of the fuel hoses?

Finally, are any of the belts not too hard to get at in my 280?

And if so, which ones and where can I order them from, so I can bring those down to my Airstream to replace 'em while we're in there. Obviously any old belts on there will be super old and cracked, so I'd love to replace them all if it's not too hard to get at them and install them.

I love the links to eBay, so easy to buy exactly what I need!

Thank you SO much!!!
Tap, definitely follow Peter's advice on what type of fuel hose to buy. It will make a big difference in the long run.

There has been some discussion as to whether the return line is 1/4" or 5/16". Don't buy the rubber fuel hose until you get the fuel pump in hand so you can measure the return line to be sure. Also buy a bunch of clamps for both the feed and return as frequently the hose clamps are in pretty bad shape. I've found it easier to just buy new clamps every time I replace rubber hoses. I only reuse the existing ones if they are in good shape.

Any good good auto parts store should be able to provide the fuel line, just make sure it matches the spec Peter provided.

Here's a thread showing where the fuel pump is located on some models. Post #21 is where the pictures are.

Here's a carter fuel pump that should work.

This carter pump has been used by an Airstream owner so I would think it would work as well

Here's a thread describing the belt replacement on an 84 310. Note, the belts are likely different numbers than your coach will use. You probably don't have a smog pump so you need to keep that in mind as well.

Here's some notes that I have for my 74 Argosy 454. It does not have a smog pump so the notes might be closer to what you're looking for. Just keep in mind the belt lengths are not necessarily what you're looking for. I have a different alternator installed which changed the belt length and a different AC compressor mount so that will likely affect lengths as well. It's important you follow the installation sequence that I've listed below. Also you'll have to work from above while laying on the engine and also from below at times.

1st - (7410) PS to Crank (Tension PS pump first using 1/2" ratchet connected to top of PS pump bracket)

2nd - (7603) A/C to PS to Crank to WP (Tension after PS pump has been tensioned, Tension via long screw on top of A/C pump mount)

3rd - (7470) Alt to WP to Crank (Tension Alt via top mounting bracket, Reminder: Lower alternator bolt is accessible form underneath right front wheel well)

And finally here's a thread where I'm documenting my 454 engine build. Post #19 has a picture of the front of the engine to give you an idea of what you'll be working on.


Brad
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Old 02-07-2016, 11:52 AM   #82
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....Add to the above a breaker bar and 1" socket for wheel lugs(I think).
Steve, my 84 310 needed a 1-1/16" socket whereas my 74 Argosy needs a 1" socket.

Not sure if the difference is due to the 10 lug vs 8 lug. Took me a little searching to find a 1-1/16" impact socket but ebay came to the rescue on that one

Definitely get a breaker bar, a LONG breaker bar!

Brad
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Old 02-07-2016, 12:17 PM   #83
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Ive had good luck ordering belts from V-belt Supply.
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:22 PM   #84
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To Clarify Brad...
I worked from back to front... all my return lines were 7/16"... You said your lines were 1/4... and I assumed it was just a production year thing... until I got to the front... where the Mechanical pump to chassis rail pipe was 1/4"! It is so, on the pump and on the chassis rail pipe, that is actually necked down there. I tried to use the 7/16 and was a sloppy fit on both, so went out and bought a 12" length of 1/4.
I was surprised... and began to wonder if the 1/4" pipe was there to somehow add a slight restriction... But I think the real story is that the earlier years the 454 and 350's all had 1/4" return, and so that's what the pumps are...

Tap,
You coach has a few miles on it I saw... It was a known issue of fuel supply AND vapor lock on climbs that prompted GM to suggest the addition of a rear mounted electrical pump. If your baby has one, great! If not, its something you should plan to add sometime... you have plenty of other priorities!
It needs some planning and electrical mods to install correctly, with a oil pressure switch cutoff. Mine is on a simple switch... not good, as in the event of a engine stall as a result of a accident or electrical fire, it would keep pumping fuel....
The GM chassis manual has a detailed instruction on how it should be done.
Grab a copy of the owners manual, and GM Chassis manual, and have a digital copy at home, and a printed hard copy in the motorhome.
Personally, I have 2 big ring binders in the MH... with a Owners Manual, Chassis Manual, in one. In the other I have printed copies of the Roof AC manual, Furnace Manual, Fridge manual, and everything else I could find!
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:28 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Steve, my 84 310 needed a 1-1/16" socket whereas my 74 Argosy needs a 1" socket.

Not sure if the difference is due to the 10 lug vs 8 lug. Took me a little searching to find a 1-1/16" impact socket but ebay came to the rescue on that one

Definitely get a breaker bar, a LONG breaker bar!

Brad
You maybe correct!
I guess my point was that is a LARGE socket that is at least 1/2" drive... and not a more common size, so might not be in a standard socket set!
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Old 02-07-2016, 06:10 PM   #86
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TAP,
Here is the thread about sealing the windshield HELP: Windshild leaks
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Old 02-07-2016, 06:14 PM   #87
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Quote:
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TAP,
Here is the thread about sealing the windshield HELP: Windshild leaks
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f310...ks-144002.html
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Old 02-07-2016, 06:15 PM   #88
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I guess







I guess I didn't do that right.. Try this; ohttp://www.airforums.com/forums/f310...ks-144002.html
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Old 02-10-2016, 08:44 PM   #89
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Guys, I'm thinking of replacing the gas tank because mine is probably in pretty bad shape inside.

Are they pretty standard? Or is it really expensive to replace it?
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:55 PM   #90
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Its a big tank and not easy to find...
I am sure others will chime in, but pulling it and having it cleaned and sealed is the way to go.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:17 PM   #91
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Its a big tank and not easy to find...

I am sure others will chime in, but pulling it and having it cleaned and sealed is the way to go.

Good advice. I'll do that.
Now... how does one have it cleaned and sealed? 😬
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:49 PM   #92
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Shop around... Radiator shops... They steam clean first then acid dip I think. Then the is a variety of different sealants available, and each has merits.
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:01 AM   #93
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Shop around... Radiator shops... They steam clean first then acid dip I think. Then the is a variety of different sealants available, and each has merits.
I was at the local radiator shop here in Richmond on Monday and apparently they've been forced to stop using the good stuff and whatever they're using now doesn't remove rust

I was pretty disappointed when I heard that.
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:09 PM   #94
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Still working on the darn thing. FINALLY got it to start up! Hoping to have a glass replacement company install my new, official Airstream replacement windshields that I paid good money for a month or so ago and they've just been sitting in their crates.

Question #1: What brand tube of sealant should I have them use to seal the gasket?

#2: Would the sealant go between the motorhome metal and the rubber gasket? Or between the gasket and the glass?

And #3: I'm going to replace all 6 (plus spare) tires (so 7 total) on my 1981 280. Which exact tires do you recommend that are good quality, best for this machine, and yet not too expensive?

Thanks so much!
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:12 AM   #95
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Theoretically the lock strip in the gasket is supposed to spread the gasket to make the seal. The guy who installed my windshields glued everything inside and out. His explanation was that most newer cars the glued in windshields are part of the structure especially in a wreck. For liability reasons his insurance requires him to fully glue all windshield installations whether they are structural or not. Your installer should have the proper adhesive/sealant and apply it to all surfaces.

For tires I run Goodyear G647 RSS. They are a quality tire and are mud and snow rated in case you get caught in bad weather. I find them on sale frequently at Camping World for a good price. I look through their supply and pick the newest manufacture date and take them home and mount myself. They are fairly easy to mount and CW charges so much to mount that it wipes out any savings from the purchase. I install Dyna-beads for balancing and I'm good to go.
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:03 AM   #96
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Other makes of tires to consider are Toyo M120Z (made in Japan) and Hankook AH-11 (made in Korea). You can't go wrong with either. Shop around at a local shop for best price.

MAKE SURE TO GET DATE CODES!! Try to get the newest tires you can. The date code will read like this, 1016, which is the tenth week of 2016 is when this tire was made.

If your smart and lucky PeterH- Airstreamer may still have a set of Centramatics for the front end. These can't be bought anymore, so go over to the centramatics thread in the Mechanics section of Motorhome forums.

As for windshield sealant, there was a thread that someone mentioned the type. I'm pretty sure it was PeterH-Airstreamer. If he doesn't pipe up, give him a PM to find out.

Tip....When using it, make sure you masking tape off everything and anything you DON"T want that stuff to stick too as it's difficult and messy to clean up.

Taps, are coming to Pennwood this May? There will be 15 of us Classic's there and it will allow to to put faces to names and ask a lot of questions. We would like to see you there. See last section of Classic get together.

Cheers
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:14 AM   #97
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Other makes of tires to consider are Toyo M120Z (made in Japan) and Hankook AH-11 (made in Korea). You can't go wrong with either. Shop around at a local shop for best price.

MAKE SURE TO GET DATE CODES!! Try to get the newest tires you can. The date code will read like this, 1016, which is the tenth week of 2016 is when this tire was made.

If your smart and lucky PeterH- Airstreamer may still have a set of Centramatics for the front end. These can't be bought anymore, so go over to the centramatics thread in the Mechanics section of Motorhome forums.

As for windshield sealant, there was a thread that someone mentioned the type. I'm pretty sure it was PeterH-Airstreamer. If he doesn't pipe up, give him a PM to find out.

Tip....When using it, make sure you masking tape off everything and anything you DON"T want that stuff to stick too as it's difficult and messy to clean up.

Taps, are coming to Pennwood this May? There will be 15 of us Classic's there and it will allow to to put faces to names and ask a lot of questions. We would like to see you there. See last section of Classic get together.

Cheers
Tony
There are really 2 types of windshield sealant, one is a setting polyurethane used for installing the windshield and the other is the various sealers we all have used the mixed results to seal the windshield after it is installed. I would let the windshield guy use his trusted setting type sealant and deal with other issues later if they come up. To ask a windshield installer to deal with a procedure, like Greg did on his, would way above and beyond his call of duty. I personally like the black Vulkem as a sealer after it is installed, but it is a very messy and semi-permanent product.
And, yes, I have another set of front centramatic wheel balancers that were specifically made for us. Give me a shout if you want them.
You can read about them here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f159...cs-141043.html
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:00 PM   #98
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Thanks for all the info guys!

PeterH, I'd love to get them from you. Is it bad to only have them in front? Or is it just fine?
Thanks!
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:26 PM   #99
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Taps

The back ones are still made and can be easily ordered later, it's the front ones that you want to get now before they're gone.

Are you thinking of coming to Pennwood? Just to let you know, if you're thinking your rig is not up to snuff, my exterior has yet to be done, and is a little ratty looking, so you won't be alone. Mine has "patina"

Cheers
Tony
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:19 PM   #100
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Quote:
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Taps



The back ones are still made and can be easily ordered later, it's the front ones that you want to get now before they're gone.



Are you thinking of coming to Pennwood? Just to let you know, if you're thinking your rig is not up to snuff, my exterior has yet to be done, and is a little ratty looking, so you won't be alone. Mine has "patina"



Cheers

Tony

Thanks so much for mentioning it and including me. That means a lot. But being a total newbie, I have no idea what Pennwood is.

I just googled it and see that it's an Airstream park in Pennsylvania, but I assume you're possibly referring to a rally that takes place there at some point?

Is there a website or something with all of the info and dates for that event? I didn't see any mention of it on the Pennwood park website.

Thanks so much!
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