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Old 06-01-2015, 06:24 PM   #1
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1985 32.5' Airstream 325
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Side window track replace

Bobmiller1

I am doing side window track replacement on one of my side rear windows. Got every thing out and cleaned ready to go back in. Quite a time consuming job you are right.

What did you find was the best way to reinstall everything. I have replaced the front slider tracks and they were easy to reinstall, This looks like it could be a bear, Any help would be appreciated as me and glass are not very good friends.
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:10 PM   #2
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John,

The main thing I found on the side slider windows was the plastic track at the bottom needs to be removed before you can remove the last panes. From what I remember there is a small Philips head screw at each end of the track that need to be removed and then you carefully slide the track out. This allows the glass to drop down low enough to clear the top edge. Kinda of a pain in the back side to deal with.

Be careful with those plastic guide strips, they are made of unobtainium.

Hope this helps!

Brad
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:36 PM   #3
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Hi Brad

I haven't heard from you in a long time I hope everything is okay send me a email if you like.

I got the side window track sorted out it is just a bit different from the front sliders thanks for the info

Do you still need the lower mounts for that track bar, We are going to Sturgis SD in Aug and I have to drop something off for Mike in Champaign ILL I don't know how far that is from you.


How are things going on the 24 have you got the motor installed yet
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Old 06-09-2015, 08:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd57 View Post
Hi Brad

I haven't heard from you in a long time I hope everything is okay send me a email if you like.
I sent you an email quite some time ago but I figured you were to busy plowing to read it!

Quote:
I got the side window track sorted out it is just a bit different from the front sliders thanks for the info
Definitely different. I'm not really impressed with how Airstream constructed those windows.

Quote:
Do you still need the lower mounts for that track bar, We are going to Sturgis SD in Aug and I have to drop something off for Mike in Champaign ILL I don't know how far that is from you.
For the life of me I can't remember what track bar you're referring to! My guess is I probably still need them but it's been way to long since I've looked at my to do list (I'm actually afraid to look at it now!).

When you get to Sturgis look for a highly polished 345. It belongs to a photographer who is responsible for a lot of the pictures you see in the biker magazines featuring the bikes & girls. He gave me a couple of sample magazines and he does great work

Quote:
How are things going on the 24 have you got the motor installed yet
Haven't really touched the Argosy for way to long. I've been trying to get it into the shop so it's out of the weather. Believe it or not I've just about reached the point where I can move it in. The last major task before moving into the shop is to scrub the outside with soap and water to get rid of the moss that's been growing on it

Brad
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:27 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
........The last major task before moving into the shop is to scrub the outside with soap and water to get rid of the moss that's been growing on it



Brad

We have the same issue, but the moss is on the inside hahaha!



Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd57 View Post
Bobmiller1

I am doing side window track replacement on one of my side rear windows. Got every thing out and cleaned ready to go back in. Quite a time consuming job you are right.

What did you find was the best way to reinstall everything. I have replaced the front slider tracks and they were easy to reinstall, This looks like it could be a bear, Any help would be appreciated as me and glass are not very good friends.
Once again, I am redoing the Window channel inserts on my 310.
As I have posted many times, I do not use the Schlegle, Airstream dealers sell. It's expensive and starts rusting in short order and it makes the windows operate extremely hard.
I have used this for many years:
AS1268 Flexible Flocked Lining All-Rubber | Hi-Tech Glazing Supplies
It appears to be the OEM product used when these windows were assembled.
Also, use extreme care to NOT break the little screws that hold the stationary window in place. You HAVE to reuse the u-shape spacers or your window will not operate properly and/or scrape the glass with the lock. When reinstalling, I am using 4 mm 5/16 alu pop rivets. They are just the right size to not interfer with the sliding window on the inside. The next owner will thank you!!
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:42 AM   #7
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Once again, I am redoing the Window channel inserts on my 310.
Peter,

You will of course be taking detailed photos as you do the work and post a detailed description of the work along with those nice detailed photos....right?!

Brad
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Old 07-12-2015, 07:58 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Peter,

You will of course be taking detailed photos as you do the work and post a detailed description of the work along with those nice detailed photos....right?!

Brad
We all know that you are an expert in dismantling Motorhomes, but when it comes to putting it all back together, all we see is Green Moss
By request from our friend Brad:

Lets gather the tools. Noteworthy is the penetrating oil (treat a day before) and very sharp small chisel to help the screws to come out. (did i mention not to break the screws)
First lighty tap the screw with a hammer to help loosening the rust. If you can not get it to unscrew, it may be difficult to get a hold of the screw with vicegrips, a careful tap with the bigger chisel under screw head, may lift it enough to get a hold of it. The small very sharp chisel may be used to help loosening the screwhead by tapping it from the side. Be careful, expensive glass right there.
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Old 07-12-2015, 08:06 AM   #9
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You can do all of this work from the outside, NO NEED to remove curtains!!
Remove the alu spacers and gently pry the window open, just enough to reveal a gray spacer under the window, which is just a spacer during installation and does not serve any other function. Pull it out and push down on the window with both hands until you just have enough space on the top to pull the window out. Set the window aside and replace the gray slide in seal, if needed.
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Old 07-12-2015, 08:12 AM   #10
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with the stationary window out of the way, you can reach the small screws that hold the upper and lower plastic channel glides. Pull the strips out with the moving window and the screen in place. Now the screen is ready to be removed and set aside. The moving window will not come out until you dig out some of the channel seal, which is probably hardenened and will take a while to clean out.
More later on installing the new channel felt.
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Old 07-12-2015, 09:10 AM   #11
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a little more on removing the sliding window. As you can see the screen is loose after the gray upper and lower strips are pulled out. The sliding window needs ALL of the old lower channel insert removed, before it will go down enough to carefully! prey it out of the top. It will come out if your lower channel is clean.
Cleaning all the old stuff is the worse and most time consuming part of this job. And it all has to come out, or nothing will work properly. I use a wide very sharp chisel and a sharpened screw driver to beat it all out.
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:20 AM   #12
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Having fun, yet? And how many windows do I have ?
Ok, channels all nice a clean, took about an hour to beat it all out.
I am not using any weatherstripping for the new felt.
Get the sliding window first and careful put it back in its channel, without anything else in the frame. Stick the flocked rubber material in the upper channel until it comes out on the other side of the sliding window. Pull it far enough to go down appr 6-8" on the right side.
At the corners, take a sharp razor and cut a slice in the back of the rubber channel every 1/2" for about 2 inches. This will make it conform to the curve. Do that for all 4 corners.
Once you get to the bottom, carefully cut your weep holes and slide the rubber felt under the window. If you cleaned all the crap out of the channels, this will be easy. Fill the remaining gap on the right hand side with more of the rubber felt.
All done. next will be reinstalling the screen AND the upper and lower gray plastic strips, before the stationary window gets installed.
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
We all know that you are an expert in dismantling Motorhomes, but when it comes to putting it all back together, all we see is Green Moss
By request from our friend Brad:
Oh if only that wasn't so true!

Although you never know, someday I just might drive my Argosy to Texas
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Old 07-12-2015, 12:58 PM   #14
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Oh if only that wasn't so true!

Although you never know, someday I just might drive my Argosy to Texas

Good, I have full 30 amp service with sewer and water, but we don't do windows....
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:24 PM   #15
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Good, I have full 30 amp service with sewer and water, but we don't do windows....
My little 20 requires a 50 amp service
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:12 AM   #16
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As I am about to begin this undertaking I may be asking several "stupid" questions !
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Old 08-04-2015, 04:47 PM   #17
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We need to re-do the driver's and passenger side window seals on our '78 Argosy and are hoping someone can provide the part numbers for the gaskets, channels, etc needed. I recall seeing pictures done by someone of the process, but can't find those either. Any guidance would be much appreciated.
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:47 PM   #18
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We need to re-do the driver's and passenger side window seals on our '78 Argosy and are hoping someone can provide the part numbers for the gaskets, channels, etc needed. I recall seeing pictures done by someone of the process, but can't find those either. Any guidance would be much appreciated.
I have been using this for many years:
AS1268 Flexible Flocked Lining All-Rubber | Hi-Tech Glazing Supplies
Its cheaper than the Schlegle material Airstream dealers sell and makes the windows operate much easier. Just don't forget to cut the drain holes.
The other vertical seals are available from Airstream dealers
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:52 PM   #19
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Thanks Peter. I read somewhere (and now can't remember where) that one of the seals/gaskets/etc is no longer available. Maybe what you have listed is the replacement? I wish I could find that old post...it had pictures, and detailed descriptions.
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Old 08-04-2015, 06:59 PM   #20
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Thanks Peter. I read somewhere (and now can't remember where) that one of the seals/gaskets/etc is no longer available. Maybe what you have listed is the replacement? I wish I could find that old post...it had pictures, and detailed descriptions.
the vertical is available here :
VERTICAL LIP SEAL GRAY #6010-12 MOTORHOME SLIDING WINDOW
the trim piece (most worthless piece) , it barely does anything but look pretty and it shrinks:
GRAY TRIM SEAL - #6032-20FS MOTORHOME SLIDING WINDOW
the fuzzy that goes between the 2 pieces of glass:
Fuzzy Seal for windows and doors 683946 [683946] - $1.59 : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone!

I think Inlandrv.com carries them all, as well. Just don't buy the Schlegle channel stuff.
Good luck and be careful with sliding window when you pull it out
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