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Old 06-04-2017, 01:07 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boom Sounds View Post
Hi Peter - a quick favour, I'm assuming this is the same as the stuff I bought about ten years ago from Vintage Trailer Supply http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...-p/vts-278.htm
I'm going to try and get this sorted this year so want to ensure that I am installing the correct product!

All the best
Nick


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
Yes Nick, thats the one. I had no idea Vintage trailer supply was selling it too, for a little premium ...
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Old 06-04-2017, 03:26 PM   #42
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... Brad just installed it on his Argosy and Peanuts, he may want to chime in with his experience.
Peanut's cockpit window is not finished yet and I haven't finished swearing either

I'm not sure what it is yet but the upper rear corner on the outside is causing a bind so the window won't close all the way. As yet I'm not sure what's causing the problem. You and I discussed via text a few weeks about about the frame possibly being an issue and I've pretty much come to the conclusion that the frame at the top is twisted which is keeping the glass from being able to seat properly at the upper trailing edge.

I plan on posting more about the issue in the next few days to week or so. I'm going to be borrowing the cockpit window assembly out of the 345 so I can set it on the work bench and play with it. I want to compare the 345 frame to Peanut's frame.

More to come on Peanut's thread......

Brad
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Old 06-05-2017, 10:06 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
I'm not sure what it is yet but the upper rear corner on the outside is causing a bind so the window won't close all the way. As yet I'm not sure what's causing the problem. You and I discussed via text a few weeks about about the frame possibly being an issue and I've pretty much come to the conclusion that the frame at the top is twisted which is keeping the glass from being able to seat properly at the upper trailing edge.

Brad
After I replaced the cockpit channels on our 310, the driver's window would not slide all the way shut. I was convinced that the frame was tweaked and was ready to start bending it back into shape. Instead, made an appointment at Jackson Center when we were passing through and a tech there somehow took a hammer and a wooden shim to the channel, a half hour later all was well. Wish I could have watched him work....
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Old 06-05-2017, 10:27 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Waipio Rim View Post
After I replaced the cockpit channels on our 310, the driver's window would not slide all the way shut. I was convinced that the frame was tweaked and was ready to start bending it back into shape. Instead, made an appointment at Jackson Center when we were passing through and a tech there somehow took a hammer and a wooden shim to the channel, a half hour later all was well. Wish I could have watched him work....
Brad - have you tried calling Jackson Centre? Maybe it is a standard fix?
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Old 06-05-2017, 10:39 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Waipio Rim View Post
After I replaced the cockpit channels on our 310, the driver's window would not slide all the way shut. I was convinced that the frame was tweaked and was ready to start bending it back into shape. Instead, made an appointment at Jackson Center when we were passing through and a tech there somehow took a hammer and a wooden shim to the channel, a half hour later all was well. Wish I could have watched him work....
Steve,

To be honest, that's the direction we've been talking about. A lot of our hesitation to performing such a task is the consequences of it possibly making it worse!

I might have something more to report after this coming weekend.

Brad
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Old 06-05-2017, 12:48 PM   #46
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Steve,

To be honest, that's the direction we've been talking about. A lot of our hesitation to performing such a task is the consequences of it possibly making it worse!

I might have something more to report after this coming weekend.

Brad
I think that the tech somehow just tweaked the fuzzy schlegel stuff that I replaced with his hammer and shim, did not bend the frame. Again, wish I could have watched.
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:06 PM   #47
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Does it not seem sensible for the channel (in which the fuzzy Schlegle sits) to have to stay 'open' (ie the walls of the channel parallel) around the bends, and also the top track to be parallel to the bottom - both of which could be verified using a a piece of timber the thickness of the channel, and the same length as the distance between top and bottom channels????
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:32 PM   #48
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Quote:
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Does it not seem sensible for the channel (in which the fuzzy Schlegle sits) to have to stay 'open' (ie the walls of the channel parallel) around the bends, and also the top track to be parallel to the bottom - both of which could be verified using a a piece of timber the thickness of the channel, and the same length as the distance between top and bottom channels????
Martin, I agree with your assessment that the walls of the channel should be parallel all the way around, as well as the top being in line with the bottom track, considering however that the piece of glass is slightly curved.
I have used a piece of wood before, the width of the channel, to careful bend the entire channel back into "trueness". The wood did bend one side the hammer help on the other side.
Why they go out of alignment is another question
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:42 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Does it not seem sensible for the channel (in which the fuzzy Schlegle sits) to have to stay 'open' (ie the walls of the channel parallel) around the bends, and also the top track to be parallel to the bottom - both of which could be verified using a a piece of timber the thickness of the channel, and the same length as the distance between top and bottom channels????
Yes it does make sense. The extension to that train of thought is the track also needs to be parallel and in the same plane. Not sure if I described that correctly but the track has match the window pane curve in both direction and angle.

Click image for larger version

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Not being parallel is part of what I think Peanut's problem is. I also think the frame might be twisted in the upper rear corner which makes the problem even worse.

If you look at the above picture, in the drawing on the left the rubber schlegel is getting pinched badly where the edge of the window is trying to squeeze the rubber due to a clearance issue.


Brad
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Old 06-05-2017, 04:18 PM   #50
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I am guessing the situation is a little more complex as there is something like this going on.....

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Old 06-05-2017, 05:22 PM   #51
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I am guessing the situation is a little more complex as there is something like this going on.....

That's what I think is happening. I circled in red where the pinch point is. I think it's being caused by two things. The channel twisting and the top rear of hte frame curving inwards towards the center of the coach.
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Whichever repair method we choose to use I'd like to only do it one time without having to take it to Jackson Center to fix our screw ups!! I don't exactly run a certified repair center and all of my tech's (Myself and Ernie) are untrained amateurs
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Old 06-06-2017, 12:36 AM   #52
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Apparently you just need a hammer and a wooden shim to beat these doors and windows back into place (starts around 4:20)!

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Old 06-06-2017, 05:06 AM   #53
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I had to laugh when he said the customers wouldn't like seeing the service techs beating on their trailers with a hammer and block of wood

I'm sure I'm probably way over thinking the problem and if it was my motorhome I'd probably not have as hard a time just taking a hammer and block of wood to it. One way or another we'll get the issue resolved
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Old 06-08-2017, 04:35 PM   #54
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Peter - a couple of quick questions:

does the VERTICAL LIP SEAL GRAY #6010-12 come as a single piece per window i.e. two required to cover both cockpits?
How much of the GRAY TRIM SEAL - #6032-20FS should I order to service both front windows?

No bother if it is too much hassle answering, but I am not near my coach right now and I want to order a few parts, so if you know the answer off the top of your head, then great, If not, no bother.

all the best
Nick
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Old 06-08-2017, 05:08 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boom Sounds View Post
Peter - a couple of quick questions:

does the VERTICAL LIP SEAL GRAY #6010-12 come as a single piece per window i.e. two required to cover both cockpits?
How much of the GRAY TRIM SEAL - #6032-20FS should I order to service both front windows?

No bother if it is too much hassle answering, but I am not near my coach right now and I want to order a few parts, so if you know the answer off the top of your head, then great, If not, no bother.

all the best
Nick
Nick, both are sold by the foot, but I don't remember how much it will take, sorry.
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Old 06-09-2017, 06:12 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boom Sounds View Post
Peter - a couple of quick questions:

does the VERTICAL LIP SEAL GRAY #6010-12 come as a single piece per window i.e. two required to cover both cockpits?
How much of the GRAY TRIM SEAL - #6032-20FS should I order to service both front windows?

No bother if it is too much hassle answering, but I am not near my coach right now and I want to order a few parts, so if you know the answer off the top of your head, then great, If not, no bother.

all the best
Nick
Check out post 106 where I list the lengths. Since I compiled that list the only issue I've come up with is whether or or not the Fin seal listed for the cockpit windows is correct. The Fin Seal I ordered was thinner than what I found in Peanut.

Brad
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Old 08-23-2017, 05:18 PM   #57
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Brakes on 34.5
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:50 PM   #58
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Brakes on 34.5
Did I miss something?

On a more relevent note; I rode 200 kms on Monday to buy some Kano Labs Aerokroil penetrating oil for my tiny screws....which are very rusty.......broke a jewelers flat head screwdriver trying to VERY gently break the seal between head and aluminum to allow the oil to penetrate. Some PO I think tried to remove the screws on one window at one time and either broke the screws or lost them as two of my screws are hex head replacements.

I'm going to do multiple applications of Aerokroil before attempting to impact turn them out.

Wish me luck.

Cheers
Tony

PS Anyone have any idea on what to do if I do break a head off? John wasn't any help; he just sucked in his breath and whispered "if you break them, you're sewered, as the steel of the screw is harder than the aluminum surrounding them, and the drill will want to travel if you try to drill them out."
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Old 08-23-2017, 09:44 PM   #59
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I carbon steel, taps and drills, will dissolve in a solution of alum and water.
It will not touch the aluminum. However to make the reaction go fast
the water should be near boiling. There are a number of youtube videos
that show this process.

Another way is to use a carbide drill. Carbide is harder than any hardened
steel. However they are very brittle any if you break one off in a hole
you are really up the creek.

Some say that nitric acid works but that is really nasty stuff. Some
aluminum alloys are not OK with nitric acid however.

Pete.
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:32 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
Did I miss something?

On a more relevent note; I rode 200 kms on Monday to buy some Kano Labs Aerokroil penetrating oil for my tiny screws....which are very rusty.......broke a jewelers flat head screwdriver trying to VERY gently break the seal between head and aluminum to allow the oil to penetrate. Some PO I think tried to remove the screws on one window at one time and either broke the screws or lost them as two of my screws are hex head replacements.

I'm going to do multiple applications of Aerokroil before attempting to impact turn them out.

Wish me luck.

Cheers
Tony

PS Anyone have any idea on what to do if I do break a head off? John wasn't any help; he just sucked in his breath and whispered "if you break them, you're sewered, as the steel of the screw is harder than the aluminum surrounding them, and the drill will want to travel if you try to drill them out."
Tony,
If you break a screw, try to flatten the broken screw with a mini grinding wheel drill attachment to increase your chance for the bit to stay on center. If it breaks below the surface, you have to beat the u clip out with a flat head, which will mess up only the back side of the clip.
But...before you break it , use the different metal strength in your favor, by "working" the screw with a very sharp chisel, then use good vice grips, if the first screw driver try fails, to keep from breaking the screw head. if you go back with 1/4"-5/32 alu rivets, like I did, you do have a little wiggle room on hole size.
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