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02-22-2012, 06:50 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1982 31' Airstream 310
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 57
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Replacement panel compatibility
My 310 has some dented panels. When looking for replacements, what panels are compatible? From my understanding, from the cab back its a standard AS shell of the period. I assume the cab's panels are interchangeable with all the classic style bodies, including the Argosy? Thanks for the help!
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02-22-2012, 07:47 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Saint Petersburg
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,702
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Dan, post some pix of your dented panels. I'm sure that someone here will be able to help.
Thanks, Derek
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02-22-2012, 07:55 PM
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#3
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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You can use new panels you can get from any Airstream dealer, and are the same between trailers and motor homes. The ones you would want are for the "narrow body", or 96" wide coaches, some of the panels for the 102" wide coaches may not fit right. Be aware, however, the new panels will have a different "finish" than what's on your motor home now.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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02-22-2012, 08:06 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1982 31' Airstream 310
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 57
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I'll post pictures tomorrow. Thanks for the Help Terry! Do you think you'd be able to tell the difference between old and new panels once they are polished?
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02-22-2012, 10:34 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Saint Petersburg
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,702
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Dan, believe that the difference in panels started in the late 70's, early 80's, so those of us with motorhomes will more than likely get the same result in polishing as the newer AS trailers. Find Keyair's thread (newbie just bought an '84 345 motorhome). He's done quite a bit of polishing on his motorhome and it looks GREAT!
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02-23-2012, 03:49 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1982 31' Airstream 310
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 57
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Here are the panels in question.
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02-23-2012, 03:49 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1982 31' Airstream 310
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 57
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The panel in the rear.
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02-23-2012, 05:11 PM
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#8
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Those are all standard Airstream panels. If the person doing the polishing knows what he's doing, the panels will polish nicely. There are a couple extra steps to polishing the "new" panels, to make them shine.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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02-23-2012, 10:36 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Silverton
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,102
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Rear panels will pose a challenge, as I believe they will probably have to be custom shaped and cut, and extreme care taken for around the rear(curved) windows...dig deep into yer pockets and eat lightly...or just get out and drive it...m
__________________
Michael & Tracy
1989 345 Motorhome
CHARTER MEMBERS: FOUR CORNERS UNIT, AND PROUD OF IT!!!
We live for the moment, 'cause when you get there, it's gone...
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02-23-2012, 11:28 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1982 31' Airstream 310
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 57
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We're actually thinking about deleting the rear window all together, for more bedroom privacy and insulation. I've noticed a few models of classic MHs with a single window in back. I assume the single window style panels would also fit?
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02-23-2012, 11:34 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
1982 31' Airstream 310
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 57
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I'm also assuming there isn't any way to repair the existing panels?
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02-24-2012, 03:06 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Saint Petersburg
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,702
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Dan, the only way I can see repairing the existing panels would be to remove the inner skin and 'roll' the outer skin back into place. Of course this could present problems as well. Seems as if I've read you have to be very careful doing something like I'm describing. Using a heat source on the aluminum while trying to roll out the dents should be done carefully. Try to do some searches about dent repair, there should be plenty on the forum.
Thanks, Derek
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02-24-2012, 08:40 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Silverton
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,102
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Dan, if you're going to remove the curved rear windows, may I be the first to request them??? mike
__________________
Michael & Tracy
1989 345 Motorhome
CHARTER MEMBERS: FOUR CORNERS UNIT, AND PROUD OF IT!!!
We live for the moment, 'cause when you get there, it's gone...
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02-24-2012, 01:39 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch
, California
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,695
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My '84 345 is an oddball, custom order, and has the single rear window.
If I were you I would leave that mod well alone.
Way too much trouble, for little gain!
It looks like the center window is different too...
Take a look at this thread in the Skins section for an idea of what can be done and it will make you feel better...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...res-64383.html
The dents you have in the rear, are not too bad, and if they bother you, I would put the work into pushing them from the inside... I bet a buck, you can get them looking pretty good for way less work than replacing.
The cracks and damage to your ABS panels can be fixed with a mixture of MEK and ABS mixed to a slurry, and I can guide you how to do that.
The front creases if I am correct maybe accessable from inside the wheel housing, and if they are a good panel guy could do wonders on them.
Personally, I would not replace any of those those panels....
My rear RH upper was damaged and someone drilled holes and tried to slide-hammer it out... needless to say it cant be rescued...
__________________
My name is Steve.... and I am an Alumaholic!
Working in my Garage is like playing TETRIS with Tools!
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02-25-2012, 07:10 PM
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#15
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Alumnati
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 41
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I've done a lot of metal work in my time, building and restoring custom cars. Aluminum is difficult because it is so soft. Any hammering or hammer and dolly work will stretch the metal. A roller will work but it will never be perfect. Use a contoured roller. A straight roller, even with rounded ends will make new marks. I don't know where you would get a roller. Maybe someone else can chime in here. You need to remove the inner panels either way so try a roller. If you don't like the results, then replace the panels.
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02-25-2012, 07:21 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch
, California
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,695
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I agree, aluminum is tougher to rework.
As you said, its worth a shot to roller them.
There is a current and ongoing discussion about rollers in the skin section.
__________________
My name is Steve.... and I am an Alumaholic!
Working in my Garage is like playing TETRIS with Tools!
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02-25-2012, 07:55 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,369
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For your safety?
Hi, removing the rear windows completely would also remove your escape hatch too, wouldn't it?
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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