New guy, price expectations

[STstudios]

Magnet 18 - you are at the right place to ask questions and do your research.

When I bought my '86 345 (back in October of 2012), I had been looking at several coaches. Back then, what I found was anything from the $15k-$20K needed work to potentially be "cross-country" ready (2000 mile+ trips). It seemed like coaches at $25k - $30K+ are "almost" cross-country ready with non to little work. Again - this was about 5-6 years ago when I was looking.

If you plan on full-time, I would certainly entertain getting the 345. It is just about the right size for 2 and yes, you do need an additional vehicle to get around.

I have driven from Michigan to Sturgis, SD for the Motorcycle Rally (approximately 3000+ mile round trip) and the first four years have broken down every year except last year. You're looking at 35-30+ years for these Classic Motorhomes and there is ALWAYS something that needs fixing or replacing. It was a love/hate relationship - at one point I just wanted to sell, now I have 3!!!

Dali ('86 345 Classic)
Monet ('81 280 Funeral Coach)
Matisse ('82 280 Funeral Coach)

Your $25k is pretty spot on, but I would certainly have another $5k+ for any repairs or replacements.

Good luck with your search!


Sam

[Keyair]

Sam, You need an intervention!

Magnet...
Watch this if you havent seen it...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gB4E_ALb3Ms&t=102s

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by STstudios

Magnet 18 - you are at the right place to ask questions and do your research.

When I bought my '86 345 (back in October of 2012), I had been looking at several coaches. Back then, what I found was anything from the $15k-$20K needed work to potentially be "cross-country" ready (2000 mile+ trips). It seemed like coaches at $25k - $30K+ are "almost" cross-country ready with non to little work. Again - this was about 5-6 years ago when I was looking.

If you plan on full-time, I would certainly entertain getting the 345. It is just about the right size for 2 and yes, you do need an additional vehicle to get around.

I have driven from Michigan to Sturgis, SD for the Motorcycle Rally (approximately 3000+ mile round trip) and the first four years have broken down every year except last year. You're looking at 35-30+ years for these Classic Motorhomes and there is ALWAYS something that needs fixing or replacing. It was a love/hate relationship - at one point I just wanted to sell, now I have 3!!!

Dali ('86 345 Classic)
Monet ('81 280 Funeral Coach)
Matisse ('82 280 Funeral Coach)

Your $25k is pretty spot on, but I would certainly have another $5k+ for any repairs or replacements.

Good luck with your search!


Sam

Thanks! that fits with what I'm seeing, the nicest one i can afford and be ready to drop at least 5k contingency. To be honest, june july august i plan to park it in my parents driveway, and if I'm not comfortable with it's roadworthy-ness, i can spend pretty much my entire paycheck on it.

Bummer about the breakdowns. Looks like one of the breakdowns was starter, didn't find the other one, what was it? Trying to get an idea of what major systems might need work and what it takes to get them done.

Pretty coaches
What's with the hearse collection?


And yep, i saw that video, watched it again though

[Jeremiwvu]

I don’t know much about the motor homes except for the fact that my wife is fascinated by them.

I do however know a lot about the plunge you are about to make... wife and I did the same thing about 2 years ago, started in a 2003 safari now in s 1981 excella. We love it.

We followed a similar path living in it and staying in our old jobs for a few months before fully committing, gave us time to figure lots of things out before totally getting out of a comfort zone. Then traveled a few hours away, now the sky is the limit.

We did own and frequently use the safari prior to moving in full time.

One thing I will say is that you can and will want to live with less than you think. We are constantly getting rid of stuff probably make a trip to goodwill every couple of weeks. It’s become refreshing to downsize but we definitely wish we had gotten rid of more to start.

One thing that no one has mentioned specifically is to look for evidence of leaks, and be aware that rot or damage may have been repaired, if they are open about repaired damage it’s probably ok, but check it out and ask questions. if they say it’s perfect and original and never had a single problem they either don’t know the history or are lying.

Look for things that are new that don’t necessarily make sense (like not the first thing you would replace, like part of the floor with new cheap carpet.

Overall I say go for it, who knows it may become much more than 6-12 months, and even if not if you buy one decently you likely won’t lose much money, we actually sold our 2003 for more than we paid and owned it for 4 years, also put in lots of sweat equity and some $, but overall other than the free labor probably broke even, and had a blast doing it.

Things break, be prepared not scared. Nothing is that hart to fix if you can get to it. Research good rv service places, people, etc. you’ll need one sometime. I’m sure someone on here can recommend someone in your area. Get it checked out before moving in especially everything propane related lines, hoses, valves, appliances, etc. we fought some issues in our 81 and it’s not fun trying to live in it thinking it got fixed and it didn’t. Also these issues can be intermittent and therefore difficult.

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by Jeremiwvu

I don’t know much about the motor homes except for the fact that my wife is fascinated by them.

I do however know a lot about the plunge you are about to make... wife and I did the same thing about 2 years ago, started in a 2003 safari now in s 1981 excella. We love it.

We followed a similar path living in it and staying in our old jobs for a few months before fully committing, gave us time to figure lots of things out before totally getting out of a comfort zone. Then traveled a few hours away, now the sky is the limit.

We did own and frequently use the safari prior to moving in full time.

One thing I will say is that you can and will want to live with less than you think. We are constantly getting rid of stuff probably make a trip to goodwill every couple of weeks. It’s become refreshing to downsize but we definitely wish we had gotten rid of more to start.

One thing that no one has mentioned specifically is to look for evidence of leaks, and be aware that rot or damage may have been repaired, if they are open about repaired damage it’s probably ok, but check it out and ask questions. if they say it’s perfect and original and never had a single problem they either don’t know the history or are lying.

Look for things that are new that don’t necessarily make sense (like not the first thing you would replace, like part of the floor with new cheap carpet.

Overall I say go for it, who knows it may become much more than 6-12 months, and even if not if you buy one decently you likely won’t lose much money, we actually sold our 2003 for more than we paid and owned it for 4 years, also put in lots of sweat equity and some $, but overall other than the free labor probably broke even, and had a blast doing it.

Things break, be prepared not scared. Nothing is that hart to fix if you can get to it. Research good rv service places, people, etc. you’ll need one sometime. I’m sure someone on here can recommend someone in your area. Get it checked out before moving in especially everything propane related lines, hoses, valves, appliances, etc. we fought some issues in our 81 and it’s not fun trying to live in it thinking it got fixed and it didn’t. Also these issues can be intermittent and therefore difficult.

Thanks for the insight!

I will definitely need to check all over for leaks, is there a good post anywhere detailing the most common spots on these classic motorhomes?

I was looking into the pull behinds at first, that was when I discovered the motor homes. It looks to me like the motorhome is a better choice if you're forced to winter somewhere cold (like us), because there is a lot more buffer between your feet and the cold wind.

I did want to ask about the motorhome vs pull behind tradeoff, from what i see so far:
drive vehicle/tow house vs drive house/tow vehicle, personal preference
Classic motorhome is more likely to break down than a newish truck, and when it does it's more expensive to tow
Motorhomes appear to be better suited for wintering

Other than these, is there any major benefit to living in the pull behind rather than motorhome?

[Swillv8]

I managed to get antique insurance up here in edmonton Alberta. As an item that's rarely on the road.... however even if it was a daily driver I'd still have antique plates

What does this mean? Well it cost me $22 To register it with an existing plate I had. My registration is now continuous, I save myself $89 every year.

As for insurance it's a classic I pay $328 a year currently but I need to increase coverage and make sure I have agreed upon insurance and proper coverage. I anticipate switching companies and paying for a value I want through haggerty insurance. My broker is biased against them for no particular reason with in depth conversations and is pushing intact. I'm sure they get better margins with intact..... still at the end of it I anticipate proper insurance( here's a red flag you NEED to address) $500-$600 with a high valuation.


If I did not register my motorhome as a classic I feel I would be at a disadvantage if I totalled it with State Farm giving me $1000 for a 1982 Chevy, I used them initially just to get coverage to start even though I knew they were content taking money for a fake valuation they would not honour

[Keyair]

Started this thread a while back to highlight winter or cold weather mods. The benefits actually go beyond cold weather use, and have benefits in hot weather too.

It just makes sense to me to build in some of the mods as you go, and do repairs....
Here are some of the mods I have done or have in mind, as I go thru my coach.

When I replaced the old original and brittle grey water piping, with PEX, I insulated each pipe run. This has not only winter benefits, but keeps the hot water hot in the pipe, so saving precious hot water capacity. I also added a 1" piece of insulation below the water tank.
As I go, I will be adding insulation below the floor, between the grid chassis. I am thinking one layer of Reflectex/Prodex and then a layer of foam. Under the cockpit I will add a layer of fire retardant cloth.
Plan to upgrade any wall area where I remove inner or outer skin.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ds-145072.html

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Keyair

As I go, I will be adding insulation below the floor, between the grid chassis. [/url]

Trying to make your 345 into an Argosy?.....

[mayco]

We have winter camped for the last 3-4 years and it's totally doable. We usually are out west in Colorado for 2+ months each year...Dec thru Jan/Feb. we have a 310TD and it's just my wife n I plus our dog....been in sustained temps of 20 degrees and below for weeks at a time. We experienced one freeze up of our waste valve on the first trip but none since.
Getting ready right now to head west in early Dec hopefully. We absolutely love winter camping and the solitude in the state parks as we travel. Our 310 works perfect for us as far as space is concerned, rear queen center bath. The 345s are really beautiful IMHO, glad I don't have to deal with the tag though. If at all possible, I would try my best to buy a Diesel if I were you. I'm not a big Diesel guy or anything, I knew next to nothing about diesels before I bought the 310. Ive just had such good luck with this motor and there really isn't any mods you can do to it. It is what it is and it's a great motor. I think it's worth the wait and extra money to try your best to hold out for the Turbo Diesel. The systems on these rigs are are about the same, interchangeable components. But the drive train is a different story. I would sacrifice interior condition for the Diesel motor in a heart beat. As others have mentioned, try to find one that's been on the road up to the point of sale. Or at least recently. Sitting idle causes all kinds of issues and can hide many more.
Soooo for me, the two most important things to look for if I were in the market would be
Finding a (310) Turbo Diesel and one that's been recently used on a regular basis.

Be prepared to spend a couple grand right off the top for new tires. More likely than not they will have aged out past their DOT recommendations. They may have very few miles on them but still be unsafe to put on the road. My two cents.....and worth every penny

Mike

[Keyair]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Trying to make your 345 into an Argosy?.....

Low blow Brad.... below the floor in fact!

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by mayco

We have winter camped for the last 3-4 years and it's totally doable. We usually are out west in Colorado for 2+ months each year...Dec thru Jan/Feb. we have a 310TD and it's just my wife n I plus our dog....been in sustained temps of 20 degrees and below for weeks at a time. We experienced one freeze up of our waste valve on the first trip but none since.
Getting ready right now to head west in early Dec hopefully. We absolutely love winter camping and the solitude in the state parks as we travel. Our 310 works perfect for us as far as space is concerned, rear queen center bath. The 345s are really beautiful IMHO, glad I don't have to deal with the tag though. If at all possible, I would try my best to buy a Diesel if I were you. I'm not a big Diesel guy or anything, I knew next to nothing about diesels before I bought the 310. Ive just had such good luck with this motor and there really isn't any mods you can do to it. It is what it is and it's a great motor. I think it's worth the wait and extra money to try your best to hold out for the Turbo Diesel. The systems on these rigs are are about the same, interchangeable components. But the drive train is a different story. I would sacrifice interior condition for the Diesel motor in a heart beat. As others have mentioned, try to find one that's been on the road up to the point of sale. Or at least recently. Sitting idle causes all kinds of issues and can hide many more.
Soooo for me, the two most important things to look for if I were in the market would be
Finding a (310) Turbo Diesel and one that's been recently used on a regular basis.

Be prepared to spend a couple grand right off the top for new tires. More likely than not they will have aged out past their DOT recommendations. They may have very few miles on them but still be unsafe to put on the road. My two cents.....and worth every penny

Mike

Send me your paypal address and I'll get you paid up

Thank you for the input, glad to see you've winter camped without issue. I feel like I'm noticing 2 camps, the "I've never tried it but it looks like a terrible idea" and the "I tried it, it was fun" It looks like with prep it's definitely doable.

It looks like the average low where we're going in January is 11 degrees.

I think I plan to convert to 50A, with a 30A/30A splitter (like this http://www.conntek.com/products.asp?id=1157), to leave the stock wiring intact off one 30A side and run new lines on the other 30A just for electric heaters. Looks very simple. That's enough for 1KW bedroom, 1KW up front, 1KW keeping water warm. Plus if it gets cold at that point, I can run the furnace, and another KW on the RV electric. I can't imagine not being able to stay warm pumping 4KW into an RV.


I also definitely plan to hold out for a diesel, especially since we plan on having a sizable toad. For vacation I would have no problem with the 310, but if my wife is working from home out of it, and I'm trying to spread out papers and work on grad school in it... I don't want to be tripping on each other. From what I've seen of video tours, the 345 is enough space up front to not feel "cooped up", not sure the 310 is the same way. Maybe if I saw it in person it would feel better. I really think we would be fine either way though. I would love to get a hands on tour of these, that will have to happen eventually.

But mmm that tag axle makes it look like a sleek bullet train on wheels

Odds are whatever comes up first in good condition, with a diesel, 310 or bigger, with rear beds, we will get and make the best of

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by Keyair

Started this thread a while back to highlight winter or cold weather mods. The benefits actually go beyond cold weather use, and have benefits in hot weather too.

It just makes sense to me to build in some of the mods as you go, and do repairs....
Here are some of the mods I have done or have in mind, as I go thru my coach.

When I replaced the old original and brittle grey water piping, with PEX, I insulated each pipe run. This has not only winter benefits, but keeps the hot water hot in the pipe, so saving precious hot water capacity. I also added a 1" piece of insulation below the water tank.
As I go, I will be adding insulation below the floor, between the grid chassis. I am thinking one layer of Reflectex/Prodex and then a layer of foam. Under the cockpit I will add a layer of fire retardant cloth.
Plan to upgrade any wall area where I remove inner or outer skin.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ds-145072.html

Thanks, I had been working through some cold weather threads, hadn't gotten to that one yet, lots of good info! It looks like i need to learn about this PEX stuff.

[Keyair]

Pex is easy compared with the other stuff!

[Waipio Rim]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

I also definitely plan to hold out for a diesel, especially since we plan on having a sizable toad. For vacation I would have no problem with the 310, but if my wife is working from home out of it, and I'm trying to spread out papers and work on grad school in it... I don't want to be tripping on each other. From what I've seen of video tours, the 345 is enough space up front to not feel "cooped up", not sure the 310 is the same way. Maybe if I saw it in person it would feel better. I really think we would be fine either way though. I would love to get a hands on tour of these, that will have to happen eventually.

I haven’t seen any 345’s with the Isuzu diesel. My guess is that they were only offered in the 280’s and 310’s. Did see one 345 with a Cummins/Allison 545 combo that the original buyer apparently custom ordered and paid a bundle for, but only one.

[Isuzusweet]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

Send me your paypal address and I'll get you paid up



I think I plan to convert to 50A, with a 30A/30A splitter


I also definitely plan to hold out for a diesel, especially since we plan on having a sizable toad. For vacation I would have no problem with the 310, but if my wife is working from home out of it, and I'm trying to spread out papers and work on grad school in it... I don't want to be tripping on each other. From what I've seen of video tours, the 345 is enough space up front to not feel "cooped up", not sure the 310 is the same way. Maybe if I saw it in person it would feel better. I really think we would be fine either way though. I would love to get a hands on tour of these, that will have to happen eventually.

Just my two cents......

To upgrade to fifty amp you will need to run 6 gauge wire from your upgraded transfer switch to a 50 amp breaker box. The wiring is inside the wall at the back. Taking off the interior sheets on my 310 was a bit time consuming as the one sheet you can only partially take off.

A rear convertible lounge may work for you in a 310 as it gives you three sofas during the day to choose from.

The 345's are nice but can be difficult to get into some parks. New tag axles are available from Inland RV but no brake drums, and be prepared to pay.

As for sizeable toads....that's a no go gas or diesel. Technically our rigs can only tow 2000 lbs. Trust me, you want the smallest, lightest vehicle you can find as our diesels (and gas motors) are only 220 hp (brand new), so get use to 25-30 mph up hill climbs. It is also the transmission that is a weak link in our rigs. Mike has the only known 310 ordered with an Allison transmission, (wipe that smug smile off your face Mike), with the rest of us having the 475. Not that the 475 is a bad transmission, it isn't, but it's still having to motivate 14,000+ lbs; add another 5000 lbs for a sizable toad, and you will have a problem. A 345 with its increased weight due to the tag and body length would be even worst.

This is my toad; at 1800 lbs with the baseplates and attachments installed, it was the lightest one we could find.

I love my 310 TD just as much as Mike does his, but it's no 396 diesel pusher with a 330 Cat motor.

Cheers
Tony

PS You may find an AS 396 diesel pusher may fit your needs better.

[Jeremiwvu]

Regarding winter camping, it’s not that big of a deal, we did it occasionally for “fun” prior to being full time for 2 full winters.

Here are my comments, upgrading to 50 amp might be useful but lots of campgrounds don’t have 50 amp service, and lots of others do not “allow” electric space heaters... I’ve used one anyway, but I guess if caught I could have been punished

You don’t really need electric heat over top of the furnace it but it does save $$$ on propane especially if the electric is free. We upgraded to a 40,000 btu gas furnace in our 1981 excella, we decided to replace the furnace anyway vs repair and the 40,000 btu wasn’t much more than the stock 30k. It’s not that cold here right now but highs have been mid 40’s and lows in the upper 30’s for a few days, in the last 3 hours I don’t think the heat has come on more than 3-4 times and runs 5 min or less per cycle and keeping it a nice 70 degrees or so.

Also worth considering is lots of campgrounds power connections are questionable, I nearly had one catch fire, which prompted the purchase of one of those over priced (but worthwhile imho) power regulator surge monitor things, protects against surge, low voltage, high voltage and a bunch of other potential issues. Before that incident I hadn’t considered that even if my wiring was perfect and cables good didn’t mean I was safe or that the shore power wasn’t going to cause something of mine to blow up. The plug on the 30 amp Cable melted and was smoking and none of the breakers inside tripped nor did the 30 amp breaker at the pole which is scary. Also I didn’t card him but the guy that replaced the melted 30 amp plug gave me no indication of being qualified to preform this type of work.

Sorry for the tangent but the point is you won’t need that many heaters, and your money and time will likely be better spent on investigating and fixing and upgrading insulation especially under the floor and checking for areas where cold air can get in, I spent lots of time our first winter finding cold drafty areas and figuring out why they were cold and working to improve those, eventually and with lots of weatherstripping, foam gaskets, bits of various types of rigid and not rigid insulation we had it pretty tight and made a huge difference in comfort and gas consumption.

Also worth noting and I know this is true for trailers not sure on the motor homes but the gas furnace generally has a couple of small ducts that go into the sub floor, this helps keep your feet from freezing but also keeps the holding tanks from freezing, so you will want your furnace to run at least some especially when it’s really cold.

Also haven’t hit winter with the new furnace yet but so far it seems to be using a fraction of the propane.

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by Waipio Rim

I haven’t seen any 345’s with the Isuzu diesel. My guess is that they were only offered in the 280’s and 310’s. Did see one 345 with a Cummins/Allison 545 combo that the original buyer apparently custom ordered and paid a bundle for, but only one.

Well shoot, that's a bummer. Sounds like the 310 is looking better.
Do the captains chairs on these spin around? I've seen very few pics with them turned, not sure if it's a mod or stock option?

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

Just my two cents......

To upgrade to fifty amp you will need to run 6 gauge wire from your upgraded transfer switch to a 50 amp breaker box. The wiring is inside the wall at the back. Taking off the interior sheets on my 310 was a bit time consuming as the one sheet you can only partially take off.

A rear convertible lounge may work for you in a 310 as it gives you three sofas during the day to choose from.

The 345's are nice but can be difficult to get into some parks. New tag axles are available from Inland RV but no brake drums, and be prepared to pay.

As for sizeable toads....that's a no go gas or diesel. Technically our rigs can only tow 2000 lbs. Trust me, you want the smallest, lightest vehicle you can find as our diesels (and gas motors) are only 220 hp (brand new), so get use to 25-30 mph up hill climbs. It is also the transmission that is a weak link in our rigs. Mike has the only known 310 ordered with an Allison transmission, (wipe that smug smile off your face Mike), with the rest of us having the 475. Not that the 475 is a bad transmission, it isn't, but it's still having to motivate 14,000+ lbs; add another 5000 lbs for a sizable toad, and you will have a problem. A 345 with its increased weight due to the tag and body length would be even worst.

This is my toad; at 1800 lbs with the baseplates and attachments installed, it was the lightest one we could find.

I love my 310 TD just as much as Mike does his, but it's no 396 diesel pusher with a 330 Cat motor.

Cheers
Tony

PS You may find an AS 396 diesel pusher may fit your needs better.

Wiring: was gonna use 30A breakers and associated 10 gauge extension cords or wiring, but running wiring in one of these is something I obviously haven't had a chance to look at face to face, it might not be worth the hassle.

Toad: by big I meant 3000lbs, which looks like some people on here do. if we have to buy something smaller or chase car it through the mountains we can figure that out

396: hmm, I'll keep it in mind, but I really like the silver eggs more than the fiberglass rectangles

Originally Posted by Jeremiwvu

Regarding winter camping, it’s not that big of a deal, we did it occasionally for “fun” prior to being full time for 2 full winters.

Here are my comments, upgrading to 50 amp might be useful but lots of campgrounds don’t have 50 amp service, and lots of others do not “allow” electric space heaters... I’ve used one anyway, but I guess if caught I could have been punished

You don’t really need electric heat over top of the furnace it but it does save $$$ on propane especially if the electric is free. We upgraded to a 40,000 btu gas furnace in our 1981 excella, we decided to replace the furnace anyway vs repair and the 40,000 btu wasn’t much more than the stock 30k. It’s not that cold here right now but highs have been mid 40’s and lows in the upper 30’s for a few days, in the last 3 hours I don’t think the heat has come on more than 3-4 times and runs 5 min or less per cycle and keeping it a nice 70 degrees or so.

Also worth considering is lots of campgrounds power connections are questionable, I nearly had one catch fire, which prompted the purchase of one of those over priced (but worthwhile imho) power regulator surge monitor things, protects against surge, low voltage, high voltage and a bunch of other potential issues. Before that incident I hadn’t considered that even if my wiring was perfect and cables good didn’t mean I was safe or that the shore power wasn’t going to cause something of mine to blow up. The plug on the 30 amp Cable melted and was smoking and none of the breakers inside tripped nor did the 30 amp breaker at the pole which is scary. Also I didn’t card him but the guy that replaced the melted 30 amp plug gave me no indication of being qualified to preform this type of work.

Sorry for the tangent but the point is you won’t need that many heaters, and your money and time will likely be better spent on investigating and fixing and upgrading insulation especially under the floor and checking for areas where cold air can get in, I spent lots of time our first winter finding cold drafty areas and figuring out why they were cold and working to improve those, eventually and with lots of weatherstripping, foam gaskets, bits of various types of rigid and not rigid insulation we had it pretty tight and made a huge difference in comfort and gas consumption.

Also worth noting and I know this is true for trailers not sure on the motor homes but the gas furnace generally has a couple of small ducts that go into the sub floor, this helps keep your feet from freezing but also keeps the holding tanks from freezing, so you will want your furnace to run at least some especially when it’s really cold.

Also haven’t hit winter with the new furnace yet but so far it seems to be using a fraction of the propane.

Thanks for the note on the power station, I'll look into that and probably get one of those. I'm all about not catching on fire.
My plan was to use the second 30A input to also heat the tanks, but if my time and money is going to be much better spent upgrading to a more efficient furnace, I can definitely look at that

[mayco]

I also use as much electric heat as possible. It's provided for in your camping fees so why not. I got around converting to 50amp by adding a second shore power cord hooked to a dedicated 120v outlet that I use for both heat in the winter and the rear air conditioner in the summer. The stock configuration of the rear AC unit runs off the generator only on the 310s. I interrupter that circuit from the generator and installed an outlet on the rear AC line. Also added a two hole breaker box. The second shore power cord plugs into the 120v outlet on the campground electrical pole. So I can use that second cord outlet to plug the rear AC in during the summer and extra electric heat in the winter. One of my favorite and most used mods I've done to the rig.

[Keyair]

I would seriously look at the $10k 370 that was posted in the For Sale thread a couple of weeks back. If its still for sale.....

[Keyair]

Now $7900, and open to offers!
I would be on that all day long @ $5k if I was finished with mine!
Loads of headroom to fix it up withing your budget and probably have profit for later.

https://spokane.craigslist.org/rvs/d...360369863.html