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Old 10-01-2012, 06:34 PM   #1
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Motorhome fuel problems

I was bringing home a 1988 345 today and it had been sitting a year but the PO said fuel stabilizer was added, gauge said 1/2 tank. Started and ran perfect got 4 miles and started to miss and run out of power on first hill. Fortunately gas station I was headed to was right there. Stopped and added 20 gallons and it started right up and ran smooth (flat ground) 60MPH for 10 miles till hill and popped sputtered but made it. Flat ground full speed ahead. Left it at a safe place dark and will go back for it tommorrow.
I am thinking fuel filter.
Can anyone tell me where the filters are on the stock 88 325 and if possible part numbers?
I just need to get it home where it will get the full service and love it needs and deserves.
Thanks in advance for your answers.
RichardT
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:03 PM   #2
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I don't know about the 88, but the 83, on a P30 had the fuel filter on the curb side frame rail, about half way forward. It was a simple inline 3/8 filter. Mine was always plugging up and I always carried two spares with me. I would remove it and could not even blow through it, cut it open and it would look just fine. I think it was water saturated filter material which caused the issue.

Go to NAPA or any parts place and get an inline 3/8 filter.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:04 PM   #3
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Look just in front of the fuel tank, the filter should be before the electric fuel pump. You may also have an intermittent electric fuel pump problem. It just a metal inline filter.
Carter P4070 In-Line Electric Fuel Pump - Compare prices, reviews, user opinions - Shopper.com
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:19 PM   #4
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If it's been sitting that long there could be water in the tank from condensation. I assume it has a vented cap.
Add a cup of methyl hydrate and that should help.
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:15 PM   #5
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All good info. With the ethanol in fuel today water is always a problem.
I will be getting it in the morning. Wish me luck...
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:06 PM   #6
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Check electrical, could be hill incline changing a ground point.
Good advice above about checking filter for crap, if it doesn't have any, it might be in the tank, could have a prefilter screen clogged. Others have had collapsing hose and cracked or split, search line with flashlight from tank to motor.(pushing and prodding could show up old hose.
I still think mine was intermittent electrical, rather than the old fuel or 454's fuel vapor lock problem of old. I checked my tank and it was absolutely clean.
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:56 PM   #7
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We had a 454 in our old 1978 Chevy crew cab pickup, and there was a fuel filter actually in the carburetor where the fuel line entered the front of the carb body. I'd try replacing all of the inline fuel filters and the one in the front of carburetor (if there is one).

Just to clarify, did the engine run OK at idle and slow speeds, and just have problems when under load at higher rpm? Or, was it running rough at all speeds (and perhaps worse at higher rpm)?

Without witnessing your engine running, it is difficult to say; but if runs rough at all speeds, one or both of the carburetor floats could be sticking/stuck, or one or both of the metering jets could be clogged. If either of these is the root cause, the carburetor may need to be rebuilt.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:23 AM   #8
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Just wanted to back up PeterH on this one. Check your fuel filters. On my 86 345 there are two: one on the passenger side frame rail forward of the door (metal canister style as Peter pointed out) and another in the carb itself.

Additionally, ensure that the electric boost pump just forward of the tank is working. Loss of power on hills is usually related to a failure of the pump (if you still have power on flats). Loss of power on hills or under load on flats is usually filters.

Had a long long drive to Florida once because of a bad inline filter....changed it in a parking lot near Atlanta and it was like a new motorhome.
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:33 PM   #9
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So I went and got it this morning, i picked up a filter and some fuel drier and octane booster. When I was changing the filter (wasn't bad) I noticed the power wire to the fuel pump by the tank was not connected. I hooked it up and it ran perfect with no issues. I made it home
Thanks for all the tips...
Super nice 325
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:41 PM   #10
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Aww, now that was just too easy

Congrats on solving the problem and picking up a nice Airstream!

Brad
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardT View Post
So I went and got it this morning, i picked up a filter and some fuel drier and octane booster. When I was changing the filter (wasn't bad) I noticed the power wire to the fuel pump by the tank was not connected. I hooked it up and it ran perfect with no issues. I made it home
Thanks for all the tips...
Super nice 325
Now its time to pay up, you owe us pictures, lots of pictures..
And you already discovered the most favorite game we all like to play: Whilst you are trying to fix something, you will always, without fail find something else that needs to be fixed...
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:04 AM   #12
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Glad you fixed it. I had a no start problem just after I used mine for it's first trip.
I have a 310 but no electric fuel pump. Is this normal.
I found some good You Tube videos on the carb and just cleaned it out and checked the jets were in place. I also changed the carb filter on the inlet line and replaced the old rubber lines. I have one plastic filter on the frame rail near at the mid point and a mechanical pump on the engine. Check the pump seal and lines for leaks. My rubber fuel line at the tank had rubbed thru where it goes through a hole in the chassis. I will be protecting it with plastic conduit or a metal line. The chassis hole could do with a some rubber around it's circumference to help here or just fix the line securely.
Would an electric pump help my 310??? Do I keep the mechanical one as well??
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montreal View Post
Glad you fixed it. I had a no start problem just after I used mine for it's first trip.
I have a 310 but no electric fuel pump. Is this normal.
I found some good You Tube videos on the carb and just cleaned it out and checked the jets were in place. I also changed the carb filter on the inlet line and replaced the old rubber lines. I have one plastic filter on the frame rail near at the mid point and a mechanical pump on the engine. Check the pump seal and lines for leaks. My rubber fuel line at the tank had rubbed thru where it goes through a hole in the chassis. I will be protecting it with plastic conduit or a metal line. The chassis hole could do with a some rubber around it's circumference to help here or just fix the line securely.
Would an electric pump help my 310??? Do I keep the mechanical one as well??
You definitely need an electric fuel pump inline. On our 310 the electric pump is mounted along the frame rail approximately where the steps are. And yes, you need your mechanical fuel pump also.

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Old 10-08-2012, 11:10 AM   #14
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Del,
I sent you an email with a PDF of the official factory cure for vapor lock...
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:25 PM   #15
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fuel problem

Hi Richard T!! I have a 88 325 and when purchased in eastern canada 4 years ago it had been sitting for 9 years, I drove it home here to calgary alberta I had similar problems would go 4 or 5 miles the quit! I ended up changing filter at electric fuel pump also along the frame behind step and also filter in carb! helped but did not fix problem!! Then I changed electric fuel pump at tank with the best pump I could find as the fuel has 30 feet to get to carb, Changed plugs and wires and on my way back some 3000 miles changed fuel filters again! I ran premium fuel with a cleaner every tank fill the first year! I have changed filters again 3 years later and have had no problems! I found a 1963 olds fuel line filter with glass bowl and this winter will put it in, I may not need it but just want to see if any more crud is in my tank! Jonathan
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:37 PM   #16
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I agree with that statement about a glass fuel bowl/filter.
I have several of these on my vehicles bought from local autoparts stores and I love them!


You can see instantly if fuel is flowing, and the color of it, and if there is any sediment...
The chrome ends unscrew and the filter elements are easy to carry and cheap.


I put one on the Genset fuel line on the MH, but have not put one on the actual motor yet because I want to find a larger capacity unit with a fuel pressure regulator and gauge built in..
I want one like the good old Malpassi Filter King... even will save gas because it is really good at dialing the FP perfect. Had one years ago and loved it!

Looks like this...
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:51 PM   #17
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just purchased a Airstream 310 31' 454 chevy engine. Runs smooth, starts up great. When push pedal down motor backfires and loses power. Was told spary wires n plugs changed n rebuilt carb. Think maybe a wire or 2 maybe misplaced. Again thinking, Fuel Filter maybe clogged cause no such words about the filter with 80 gran miles on the coach. where is filter located? know the wiring diagram already.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:17 PM   #18
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"When push pedal down motor backfires and loses power. "

Our 310 did this when we bought it after it was warmed up. Turned out the coil was going bad.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:54 AM   #19
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I've had the same thing happen with a bad coil. Not that expensive to swap out and if it turns out to not be the problem it's always good to have a spare on hand. It's no fun breaking down in the middle of no where

Brad
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:48 PM   #20
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That is also a sign of the electric fuel pump not delivering sufficient amount of fuel. If it starts backfiring and you partially let off the accelerator and it stops backfiring and picking up speed; resulted in my replacement of the fuel pump and fixing the problem.
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