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Old 05-10-2011, 04:35 PM   #1
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Moho generater door

I'm trying to repair my generator door. I know there are two horizontal spring loaded pins that hold the bottom of the door and I assume act as a hinge to open the door. Mine are gone and I'm trying to fabricate new ones.

My door has been held on by four screws and wing nuts with are tacky and a pain in the rear to access the generator.

My question is what is the bottom of the door supposed to look like? Mine has about a 1/2" flange bent down and a similar flange bent down on the edge of the compartment floor. It looks like when the two flanges hit it would keep the door from opening very far. Maybe you open the door a bit and reach in to release the pins and remove the door for access? I can build the hinge pins so that the bottom of the door sticks out a bit to allow the door to open farther but I don't know exactly how it is supposed to be.

It almost looks like the bottom of my door is bent done a bit compared to the curve of the coach. If it was curved up a little more the flange might swing up above the floor of the compartment when opened.

I've attached a couple of pics. can anyone tell me how it's supposed to work or maybe post a picture or two?

Thanks, Dan
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:55 PM   #2
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I made up some tempory hinges to see what it looks like. If I match the bottom edge of the door the way it looks like it should. The bent down flange does clear the compartment floor and the door opens nicely. The problem is the door is now 3/4" to 1" too tall. Have I got the wrong door? I can't imagine they made these in different sizes. Am I missing something here?

I'm open to ideas.

Thanks, Dan
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:31 PM   #3
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Well I don't know if i will be any help since I'm an Argosy . But my generator door doesn't have hinges the flange on the door just sits inside the body between the body and another flange it also locks at the top. If you want I can take some pics.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:46 PM   #4
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hello S. S.

I would start the fit at the top

secure the top well and then work down to the bottom forming and shaping the door.

I think a hinge at the bottom. swing down door.
with a Positive latch of some form at the Top would give you good access.
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:00 PM   #5
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Generator door
Looks like I am missing the solid piece that covers the screened area.
For what it's worth here are pics. The bottom of the door just sits inside the 2 L bracket looking things and then the lock is at the top .
Jo
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:22 PM   #6
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Thanks Gypsy Jo and John. It's interesting the little differences in these units when they all look pretty much the same. I like the idea of the whole door flange interlocking with the compartment floor. Mine is supposed to be held with 1/4" pins that are spring loaded into holes in the frame. Tin Crumpet had their door come off on the roadway. I'm working on a positive lock for the pins. The pic is the lock that I got from Inland RV. It fits the hole in the door which is now covered with a reflector. I'm a little concerned because the lock is heavier than the whole door.

I found this old pic of a creative solution for a door that decided to go it's own way.

My door is actually two pieces riveted together in the middle. I guess I can shorten it at that joint. It just drives me nuts when stuff like this doesn't fit.

Thanks again, Dan
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Old 05-11-2011, 10:45 AM   #7
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My generator door has a segmented piano hinge, front-side of the unit, and the door is one piece. I have to lift up a little on the latch side to get it to close, and the latch is horizontal when closed. My 'flanges' inside the door are not flared...m
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:14 PM   #8
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That's strange, Dan. My lower door is screwed on and I think it's factory. Ya got me!
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Old 05-11-2011, 05:33 PM   #9
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Mine is two piece too, but different to what I have seen here...
My upper is a flimsy piece of pressed Aluminum, and the lower is bolted, I think 3 placed per side... Top bolts are between the rub strips, and you can see the hole for the mid one cos its missing..

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Old 05-11-2011, 05:48 PM   #10
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Mine is two piece too, but different to what I have seen here...
What's with the Buck Rogers vents? I've never seen them before, wonder what good they did/do?
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:49 PM   #11
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What's with the Buck Rogers vents? I've never seen them before, wonder what good they did/do?
LOL, Are they not Factory?
I know they let the smoke from my oil leak out good!
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Old 05-11-2011, 08:23 PM   #12
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Mine is two piece too, but different to what I have seen here...
My upper is a flimsy piece of pressed Aluminum, and the lower is bolted, I think 3 placed per side... Top bolts are between the rub strips, and you can see the hole for the mid one cos its missing..

I have to admit I'm surprised at how many variations there are for mounting this simple door. One of the things that concerns me is how flexible the door is. With the original hinge that mine had on the bottom the door is so flexible that it would be very easy for it to flex enough that a latch at the top would simply pull past the latch tab. I think that is why some added the latches on the sides.

The piano hinge with the bottom secured and only the top half folding down solves that problem. To do that I would have to split my door and modify the inner baffle. By the way nobody else seems to have the inner baffle that is on my door.

ScrapIrony seems to have the best set up with a hinge on the leading edge and a single latch at the rear. Because of the curve the door doesn't flex in that direction and as long as the latch can support the door vertically this should solve all the problems and keep the whole thing pretty simple. Tomorrow I'm going shopping for a piano hinge.

Pretty interesting scoops there Keyair.

Thanks guys, Dan
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Old 05-11-2011, 08:46 PM   #13
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Pretty interesting scoops there Keyair.
Ahh, "scoops" rather than vents, I didn't think of that. Maybe we need to put arrows denoting fore/aft in our close-ups.
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:30 PM   #14
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LOL, for the pedantic Classic owners....
They are forward facing... so scoops..

Now I am all worried that the extra drag is why my MPG is low...

Maybe NACA Scoops are better?
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:39 PM   #15
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They are forward facing... so scoops..)
Anyone got a clue why scoops?
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:56 PM   #16
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Anyone got a clue why scoops?
Just to make you ask why Mike.
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:10 PM   #17
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Anyone got a clue why scoops?
My guess would be to keep the unit cool if you run it while driving....
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:50 PM   #18
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My guess would be to keep the unit cool if you run it while driving....
What! You guys in the 34 footers have 20kw gensets?
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:37 PM   #19
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Here is how my hinge looks...
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:50 PM   #20
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Well guys, here is the finished project. I used about a foot of aluminum hinge and used a proper compartment latch. I didn't get a picture but I did bend a piece of aluminum flat stock and riveted it to capture the lock bar and support the rear edge of the door. I may pull the bottom half of the door and shorten it a bit so it fits a little better but that will have to wait because we're going camping tomorrow.

Thanks for all the pictures and suggestions, Dan
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