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Old 02-03-2017, 09:00 AM   #781
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MAYCO's 1982 310 TD

Washing the lube off the gears and bearings can lead to damage until the new lube redcoats the surfaces. Better to leave them coated with the old lube unless there is some good reason to flush contamination out. If you have to, I'd squirt lube on the gears and bearings and turn it over by hand with the wheels off the ground. Lots of force on dry surfaces if you move it under power. In my "pinion" it's best not to disturb anything that doesn't drain out after its warmed up well and drained asap. That is unless you are going to thoroughly clean the whole system. That includes the housing all the way out to the wheel bearings. It's a judgement thing. Not saying you shouldn't persuade anything free in the bottom of the housing to drain out. The plug should also have a magnet that might look a little scary or hairy. Take a picture of it if you think its abnormally caked with particles. Some will be normal.
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Old 02-03-2017, 11:22 AM   #782
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I agree with you Kota.
My comment was to clean the housing, and not gears to clarify.
This breaks down the thick viscosity a little and allows me to get the old oil out along with the junk that sometimes accumulates at the bottom of the housing.
Gear oil is simply the smelliest, clingiest stuff on a vehicle, which is why I hate doing it more than once.
The argument for using a synthetic is very strong, as it lasts longer, lubes better, and by all accounts runs cooler. Whether is adds to MPG, on our rigs is probably debatable, but it might.... The word on the street is going full synthetic adds between 0.5% and 1.5% mpg.
Some people swear by Redline, but Mobile1, and Royal Purple is good and available even at Walmart!
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Old 02-03-2017, 01:36 PM   #783
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MAYCO's 1982 310 TD

I've been using Amsoil synthetic gear lube. I doubt if there's any statistical difference in the major brands of synthetics. My understanding is that synthetics tend to remain on surfaces and between contact surfaces better than mineral oil based lubricants which is especially important in equipment that isn't run often like our motorhomes.
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Old 02-03-2017, 01:50 PM   #784
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Great information guys, thank you. My plan was to remove the cover and just wipe out any accumulation in the bottom. Of course clean the mating surfaces of the cover and pumpkin. Replace with new gasket and oil. Use a torque wrench for the bolts. Sounds like I should seriously consider synthetic. So if I do use synthetic, can I just fill it and not worry about whatever regular oil that is still coating surfaces?
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Old 02-03-2017, 01:52 PM   #785
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I screwed this post up a bit because I posted it here and under the mechanics section. Probably should have just posted under mechanics.
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Old 02-03-2017, 01:56 PM   #786
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MAYCO's 1982 310 TD

Nothing to worry about.

Sometimes the covers are stuck pretty securely by old gasket cement. If it's not leaking I wouldn't mess with it as I mentioned earlier. You might beat it up and distort the cover and damage the surfaces. Along with getting some crap inside for very little gain. That's just my opinion.

There are a lot of things that should be opened up for inspection, flushing, and cleaning. Like brake calipers/wheel cylinders. Front hubs. Servicing the transmission, power steering...
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Old 02-03-2017, 02:36 PM   #787
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Mike if you really want to get serious about this pull the end caps on your hubs. The hubs are lubed by the diff oil. There are also theories that the proper way to clean gears and bearings and similar things is to flush with clean lube. The use of cleaners or solvents allows for the possibility that trace amounts may be left to dilute the new lube.

It may seem extreme to worry about the hubs but remember all the debris that you drain out of the diff is also in your hub bearings. Fortunately on the Dana 70HD the cover on the hub is just a plate rather than part of the axle so it is very easy to service. Just something to think about.
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Old 02-03-2017, 03:00 PM   #788
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Nothing to worry about.

Sometimes the covers are stuck pretty securely by old gasket cement. If it's not leaking I wouldn't mess with it as I mentioned earlier. You might beat it up and distort the cover and damage the surfaces. Along with getting some crap inside for very little gain. That's just my opinion.

There are a lot of things that should be opened up for inspection, flushing, and cleaning. Like brake calipers/wheel cylinders. Front hubs. Servicing the transmission, power steering...
If it had a drain plug I would probably just drain it and fill it with new. But no drain plug. Is it wise to even mess with it if its not leaking and the level is good now? I was just planning on doing this as preventative maintenance. I believe I have flushed and refreshed all other fluids at least once, oil once per year. Unless there is something I've missed. Tranny, brakes, power steering, coolant.
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Old 02-03-2017, 04:23 PM   #789
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If it had a drain plug I would probably just drain it and fill it with new. But no drain plug. Is it wise to even mess with it if its not leaking and the level is good now? I was just planning on doing this as preventative maintenance. I believe I have flushed and refreshed all other fluids at least once, oil once per year. Unless there is something I've missed. Tranny, brakes, power steering, coolant.


I assumed it had a drain plug. In that case, by all means pop the cover. Clean it out and refill it.
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Old 02-03-2017, 10:54 PM   #790
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You could suck the fluid out with a pump. I put a 3 gallon bucket inside my shop vac and run a piece of Tygon tubing from the bottom of the bucket out the inlet and seal it off. Fluid ends up inside the bucket and doesn't mess up your shop vac.

Or remove the cover...
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Old 02-06-2017, 11:32 AM   #791
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Just wondering if any of the team here has been keeping an eye out for the latest and greatest plug and play LED headlight conversions for our rigs. It has stayed on my to do list for a few years now and would like to get it done before spring. I take a look at Amazon every now and then and there are so many choices that my head gets to spinning. There are some variables that I think need to be paid attention to; DOT approved, reflector vs projector design, I am hoping to find a true plug and play set of lights.

Anybody been keeping up with the changing technology and have any recommendations on brand, supplier, most important things to look for??? I think we all want better headlights but it's been getting pushed back on my list until this last long trip west where we did more night driving than expected. A lot has to do with the time of year we were traveling, darker earlier.

Anyone care to share what they've been looking at lately?

Thanks guys n gals,

Mike
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Old 02-06-2017, 01:28 PM   #792
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Well, I can tell you about some that did not work for me. Bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

from Amazon, followed the instructions for plugging them in to my existing headlight plug, but they just blink real fast when I turn them on.
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:06 AM   #793
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I wonder what the problem is. They get pretty good reviews. Thanks for the heads up on those. Here is some information on projector vs reflector type lights.
http://bestheadlightbulbs.com/projec...which-is-best/
Those are also not DOT approved if that makes a difference, I suppose it would if you have to have the rig inspected.
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Old 02-07-2017, 03:25 PM   #794
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To be fair, I did not test the voltage at my headlight plugs and suspect that is the problem. Still have the lights, will try again next time I am where the coach is.
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Old 02-07-2017, 04:08 PM   #795
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Looks to me that the only ones listed by Amazon that are DOT approved for headlights are $125 to $150 PER LIGHT! They list only 3 or 4 that they carry that are dot approved. That's awfully expensive. Ive added a pair a decent LED driving lights to the front bumper that help a great deal but would still like to reduce amperage draw through that headlight switch. (and improve the low beam lighting, which is pretty worthless on my 310) still need to do the tail lights also, running lights are done.
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Old 02-08-2017, 04:55 AM   #796
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Looks to me that the only ones listed by Amazon that are DOT approved for headlights are $125 to $150 PER LIGHT! They list only 3 or 4 that they carry that are dot approved. That's awfully expensive. Ive added a pair a decent LED driving lights to the front bumper that help a great deal but would still like to reduce amperage draw through that headlight switch. (and improve the low beam lighting, which is pretty worthless on my 310) still need to do the tail lights also, running lights are done.


Ironic that the lights on these things are DOT approved and you can't see squat.
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Old 02-08-2017, 05:26 AM   #797
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Hehehe...good point Dave
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Old 02-25-2017, 04:32 PM   #798
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We popped out for a few days this weekend to take advantage of this beautiful weather we've been having here in central Illinois. We have grown to love winter camping so much. The parks are so empty and quiet. We are at Fox Ridge state park just about an hour drive from our home. Its become our go to spot for a quick getaway. Outstanding park with wonderful trails, a large lake and a smaller pond adjacent to the campground.
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Lovin it!!!

Mike n Lynn
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:37 PM   #799
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Old 02-25-2017, 08:44 PM   #800
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1526 days to retirement. Keep rubbing it in.
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