MAYCO's 1982 310 TD

[martin300662]

Do you have the chassis manual Mike?

http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech...ice_Manual.pdf

Section 3 is the front alignment and the tie rod inspection and replacement are around page 207-9

[mayco]

Thank you Martin. Ill see if its any different than the hard copy I have.

Mke

[mayco]

Duh! I found it. I was looking in the wrong manual, looks like its 50 lb. ft. for the tie rod ends.

[bobmiller1]

Would not worry to much about the torque spec Mike. Just use a wrench (box) and tighten down till the hole lines up with the cotter pin.

[mayco]

Thanks Bob. Ive never done tie rod assemblies before but Ive watched a bunch of videos and Im pretty good with a tape measure and can count threads so I'm gonna give it a go here. Borrowed some pickle forks and got one side all removed. Read and reread the manual a few times. Ill get it in for allignment when Im done. I was most concerned about separating those dog gone taper joints but got the first side off without too much problem.

I should be getting my parts by friday.....YAAAAAAHOOOOO!!!!! First time for everything, Im learning so so much with this rig. I love that.

Mike

[mayco]

AND! Once again I have Lynn convinced that I actually know what Im doing!! Gotta love those points scored! (this is quite amazing because the woman is so darn smart)

[mayco]

I need some advice fellas (and ladies). Im replacing my tie rod assemblies on both sides. Its going well so far until the last grease zerk on the drivers side inner tie rod end. I cant get that sucker to take grease. I tested the zerk to make sure it was open, put it in the old tie rod and it took grease just fine. I greased up the first assembly on the bench and both ends took grease just fine. The outter end on this one took grease. So I went ahead and installed the assembly, wheel off the ground still, tightened the nut just a bit on the inner and it still wont take any grease. What do you recommend I do next to get some grease in that sucker. Turn the steering wheel back n forth? Let the wheel down and put some weight on it? Not sure what to do next.

Advice from the mechanic sages here, please.


Thanks for any and all ideas, Mike

[mayco]

When I look in the grease zerk hole, I can see the poly/nylon bushing covering the bottom of the hole....is that normal? Should there be a hole there through the poly bushing?

[Gregsch]

Sounds like you have a bad part.
If you don't want to go to the trouble of taking it back, I would take a small drill bit and see if you can clear the passage. Maybe grip the drill bit with vice-grip and turn it by hand. you don't want to drill into the steel. That would leave steel shavings in a place you don't want them.

[tevake]

Just winging it here Mike, can you loosen the lock nut and rotate the piece in the joint looking for a passage?

Standing by for flaming.

Cheers Richard

[mayco]

Thanks for the response Richard, I gave that a try on the bench but couldnt get it to move in the joint. I didnt put a lot of force on it to try and get it to move around, mainly because this is my first attempt at this and dont want to damage anything.

Am wondering if there is some technique to be used with it installed but looks like Ill need to remove it to work on it. No big deal. Heck it may be a defective tie rod. I thought it was kinda strange though, when looking in the zerk hole, that I could see the poly bushing covering the hole. My thought was that maybe the grease gets forced around it. But after thinking about it more I think the grease is supposed to be on the inside of the bushing between the metal and the bushing.......oh well, was trying to get it wrapped up today but Im done, cleaned up, making dinner so Ill pull it back off in the morning. Great learning experience so far though.

[bobmiller1]

How about a picture and a brand on the tie rod ?

[mayco]

Hey Bob, thanks for chiming in here, I was hoping you would. I bought the professional grade AC DELCO inner and outer tie rods and new sleeves. Heres a picture of the inner that Im having trouble with....



It came with the boot attached. The new part number for this is 45A0090, old part number was 45A0135 I believe.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge,

Mike


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[mayco]

The grease zerk hole is on the very end of the tie rod.


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[bobmiller1]

The poly sleeve that you are referring to is actually a delron sleeve that covers the ball of the tie rod to prevent contact with the steel casing of the tie rod end. Is the grease fitting on the end or under the tie rid, take a picture when you can. If you push down on the tapered end of the tie rod and rotate it you may be able to rotate that delron sleeve to open up the Mitch for the grease to go in

[mayco]

Hey Gregsch, I see on the web that some people have drilled out the hole and put grease on the drill bit to catch the shavings. Kinda reluctant to do that.

Bob, I tried moving the tapered end around on the bench but man that thing is stiff. Ill pull it off today and try again. I ordered another last night just in case I cant get this one to cooperate. Oh, the grease zerk is on the very end of the tie rod not on the back, so on the end "side". I can shoot a pic today.

[mayco]

So this morning I removed the grease zerk from the other inner tie rod (already installed) and poked a tiny screw driver in the zerk hole to measure the depth. Sure enough it was a good 1/4" deeper than the one Im having trouble with. I cleaned up the grease from the hole and it goes THROUGH the delron bushing into the metal ball. Of course right? So either they didnt drill the hole in the problem tie rod or its misalligned. I tried moving the tapered shaft around the best I could but no sign of an opening in the bushing. Sooooo, took an 1/8" bit, dipped it in some grease to catch at least some of the shavings from the bushing and drilled through carefully till I hit metal. Cleaned the hole out real good and reinstalled the zerk. Sure enough it took grease immediately.

Ive got a new one coming so Ill look at it when here. I went ahead and installed the one I have. If the new one is the same Ill just return it. Hehehe, its always the LAST one that gets hinky isnt it? Everything was going soo smooth up till then.

So I will have new tie rods, new ball joints, and new bell cranks.....slowly making my way through the front end

Mike

[bobmiller1]

Good call....would have drilled it myself...probably missed that step in manufacturing.....also probably made in China or Mexico, no quality control. Spend the money and get it aligned properly, not that we put a million miles on these Airstreams but caster, camber and toe so it makes for a nice driving experience. The P30 chassis is subject to sag so camber is usually off when checked and very easily adjustable. Regards, Bob. What are you using for front shocks and steering stabilizer ?

[mayco]

Thanks Bob. Glad you would have done the same. Im using Bilstein shocks and I believe I installed a Monroe stabilizer. All new within the last 24 months or so. Yes Im taking it in to have it alligned. Im sure the toe is off. Sure appreciate your input here.

Mike

[bobmiller1]

I AM USING THE SAME ON THE 325LE, INCLUDING A BILSTEIN FOR THE STABILIZER, I WOULD LIKE TO USE THEM FOR THE 370LE AS WELL BUT I AM GETTING NO HELP FROM BILSTEIN OR ANYONE I CONTACTED SO FAR. tHE ORIGINAL SHOCKS ARE SHOT ON THE 370LE, SOMEONE PREVIOUSLY REPLACED THE FRONT SHOCKS WITH A MONROE...INCORRECT LENGTH AND DOES NOT COMPRESS FAR ENOUGH SO THE SHOCK BOTTOMS OUT WITH THE SUSPENSION...FELT THAT ON THE RIDE HOME FROM NORTH CAROLINA. THE ORIGINAL DRIVE AXLE HAS NEWAY SHOCKS AND THE TAG IS GABRIEL. I HAVE ONLY BEEN ABLE TO FIND A BETTER MONROE SHOCK FOR THE FRONT AND DRIVE AXLE, BUT AM HAVING NO LUCK WITH THE TAG AXLE...THE TAG AXLE IS LARGER THAN THE TAG ON THE 325LE. ANDY AT INLAND TOLD ME THE PART NUMBER FOR THE 370LE BUT I BELIEVE THAT NUMBER IS THE SAME FOR THE 325LE. IN ANY EVENT I WILL CHECK THIS WEEKEND AND SEE IF THEY ARE IN FACT THE SAME.