MAYCO's 1982 310 TD

[Isuzusweet]

I'm thinking of putting down a thresh
and a threshold ......just change it seasonally........no sweeping or vacuuming.......cheap.....natural looking; even the synthetic stuff............only problem is fire hazard........no smoking in the rig allowed.

Mike, I now have what you have.....two, count them, two Maxxair fans.....fantastic.

[mayco]

Set up my painters scafold and got up on the roof to service my AC unit. The coils were surprisingling clean. I sprayed them good with a garen hose nozzle, oiled the fan motor and just cleaned things up. I went to put the shroud back in place and Ill be dog goned if I cant get the bottom of the shroud to slip over the front edge of the drip pan.....I wrestled with it for a good 45 mins and Im stumped. I got three sides to slip over the drip pan but for the life of me cant figure out how to get the leading edge to slip over the drip pan..

These are the original Coleman Mach AC units as far as I can tell. Do any of you have a trick or method that Im missing here. I tried starting it from the front and couldnt get the back over the pan, then tried starting it from the back and couldnt get the front over the pan. There has got to be a trick to getting this shroud back on over the drip pan. I double checked the rear AC to make sure the shroud does indeed slip OVER the pan a nd sure nuff it is supposed to.
Trying to be a bit careful not to damage the shroud, they are expensive to replace..Any of you gotten up there and pulled and replaced the original shroud?? Any ideas are much appreciated. Ive got it secured in place with the screws but Im concerned about leaks if more water gets in the pan than the drain tube can handle. Got to get the front edge over the drip pan...... Frustrated here

Mike

[bobmiller1]

I have the same covers on my tool truck....you can do one of two things....remove the rear cover and observe how it comes off, probably the easiest or start again from the front and push all the way down, then slide back into place. Regards, Bob

[bobmiller1]

R

[mayco]

I pooped out and wiill have another go in the morning. Not sure what you mean Bob, "push all the way down then slide into place." Those are the same shrouds as mine. Thought Id start tomorrow by taking it off again, trying to get the front positioned over the lip of the pan and then move towards the rear and use the curved end of my flat bar to slip the rear over the pan. Since the rear has the slot openings, I mat have better luck with slipping my fingers or something in there to pull on the bottom of the shroud. I hate stupid stuff like this that holds up the project......thought that maybe someone had done it and found a little trick or something to getting the thing back on. Just trying to clean the coils and do a little maintenance....COME ON! Dang it

Mike

[bobmiller1]

I take mine off once a year if a low laying tree branch doesn't do it first for the same reason....I usually just shake them around and they pop on. If it still gives you grief try taking the other one off and watch closely to see how it comes off....Good luck !

[mayco]

Sometimes I struggle with the stupidest stuff I swear. The top edge of the drip pan was flaired OUT a good 1/2" to 3/4" all the way around making it impossible to slip the shroud back over it. Struggle struggle no luck. Ended up driving a few self tappers through the edge of the drip pan into the sheet metal on three sides, the coil was too close on the back side. With that and a mini flat bar I was able to get that sucker back on right. No way was it going to slip over the edge of the pan and you cant get your fingers in there to do any good. Its done, sure glad I decided to clean my coils....

Mike

[mayco]

Mine is a bit different than yours Bob. Mine doesnt have the big opening in back, it is slotted like the sides.

[Vycan]

Great ingenuity Mike!

[mayco]

Welllllllll, disregard my previous post on not wanting to replace the flooring with any "wood look" material. Ive been looking and researching options for over a month and placed my order yesterday for Nautikflor. Im a total sucker for the "teak n holley" marine flooring and thats what Im going with. This is a brand new product from Nautikflor, its the only click-lock teak n holly flor system on the market as far as I know. PVC with a thin foam backer attached to the back. Totally water proof. Each piece is 8" wide and 4' long. It only comes in a matte finish but will accept various finishes if we decide we want a semigloss. Ive got samples and the click lock edges seem to be engineered well.

Thank god I dont have much sq feet to cover, its stupid expensive, about $10 a sq ft. Its all relative I suppose. Ive got some subfloor repair to do first. The Naitkflor can be installed as glue down or floating. My inclination is to install it as a floating floor. Any suggestions on that are welcome. Its really good looking stuff.

http://www.nautikflor.com/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_pzTSGQ8Wk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SS40sr-Jh98

Take a peak and see what you think. With my back it will probably take me a year to get it installed .......I hope not.

Mike

[Vycan]

Mike,

Please post pics in progress as I too stumbled across this and have it on my list of upgrades. Although I have mine scheduled for next year. I look forward to seeing how it goes.

[mayco]

Sure thing

[bobmiller1]

Looks good to go Mike, let me know which color you are choosing....I would go with the float...the glueing process might hamper future repairs. regards, Bob

[mayco]

We are going with the teak n holly color but like the cherry n holly too. I typically dont like to buy anything so new to the market, no performace records. But we shall see.

I did just find an access hatch that somebody cut years ago in the rear/center of the floor. What do you guys think, access to the top of the fuel tank or rear air suspension? Its screwed back together, I suppose Ill have to open it up or it will drive me nuts. Looks like the same spot where Tony cut his.

Hey Tony, what were accessing when you cut that hatch, Im too lazy to search your thread.

[Isuzusweet]

Mike it was access to the sender and lines at the top of the tank. If I was a smart man I'd have cut one for the top of the air bags as getting to the top bolts is nigh on impossible. In fact I would really think of replacing the bags BEFORE doing the floor as you will have stuff out of the way.

As for the flooring........I worked from the center bathroom door area out. Your first piece you will scribe along the bathroom wall so that the joint to the next piece is under the door, then work your way out. That was the only piece that I nailed in place, everything floated from there out.

Cheers
Tony

[mayco]

Tony, thats EXACTLY how I was going to do my layout! Ahhhhhhh, great minds DO think alike. . Lynn n I chalked a few rough layout lines on top of the old floor just to get an idea where my layout should start from. After looking at it a bit and thinking through the runs through the hallway and entering the bath, thats what makes the most sense. I suppose Ill run that first row all the way through the living area and then work back to the cabinets on the angle. Still need to pull that line through in front of the couch and make sure I dont end up with a sliver there.

[gaiaenviro]

I did a floating floor in mine a few months ago as a result of needling some subfloor repairs. There is a radiant heat barrier underpayment available, (Home Depot is where mine came from) and I think it's worth the expense....


-Bill
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[mayco]

Hey Bill, thanks for the info. Is it just a heat barrier or is it a heating mat? I will definitely check it out. We do a good deal of traveling in colder temps so that sounds appealing. Sounds like youre happy with the results. Any other info youd care to share is appreciated.

Mike

[mayco]

Bill, is this the one you used?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/QuietWarm...F120/205350256

[mayco]

On a side note, something Ive never understood about Airstream motorhomes and trailers is that they run the plywood sufloor the wrong direction. The strength axis of plywood runs "with the grain" or along the 8' side. Thats why you run sheeting or decking perpendicular to your framing members. Whether its a roof, subfloor, or walls, you ALWAYS run the plywood across the framing not with it. Running the plywood the wrong direction greatly reduces the strength of the sheet. Whether its exposed to the elements or not, plywood will "cup" between framing members over time if its run the wrong direction. I assume Airstream does this for the economy of using 8' plywood for a rig just under 96" but its wrong. Yes it would create a seam down the center area of the floor but there are a number of simple remedies to that such as blocking, "H" clips, etc. This problem is especially magnified when people patch in small areas of subfloor that may only span one channel between framing. Ok, Im done....been wanting to get that off my chest for a couple years now........I feel better.......thank you for listening........have good day...happy fourth......dont drink n drive.................(but its wrong, just sayin) adios

Mike