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Old 10-19-2020, 11:29 AM   #781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr26.html

Putting this here so I don't lose it, I think this is where to get parts for my leaking leveling system

If you like waiting for stuff, you will really like ordering from that company. My order was supposed to ship Aug 24th...its not even in production as of today.
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Old 10-19-2020, 01:11 PM   #782
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Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
If you like waiting for stuff, you will really like ordering from that company. My order was supposed to ship Aug 24th...its not even in production as of today.
Well, I was briefly hopeful I wouldn't need to replace my whole system... Maybe not if it's that slow a turnaround, not worth limping it on one part at a time.

Heard good things about the lippert systems but be prepared for the price shock
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Old 10-19-2020, 06:51 PM   #783
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Rob, the best way is to grind the welds and re-use the old ones. Do not know of replacements.
They are stout and not much to go wrong with them.

Remember the welds go along the sides, not across the springs. That will cause a stress riser that will cause the spring to possible break at the the weld points!
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Old 10-21-2020, 08:07 PM   #784
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Cleaned up what was left of my front banana wraps. The center is OK, the ends are literally disintegrating in places where the plastic is drawn thin, and in multiple pieces held together with tape.

Taped it up into it's correct shape, and put a layer or two of glass on the inside, re-forming the places where there was no plastic at all.

I also got some fiberglass impregnated waterproof bondo for cleanup of the details before painting.

It has been about 10 years since my last fiberglass project, and I quickly remembered why. Not my best talent.
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Old 10-21-2020, 08:20 PM   #785
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Teeny tiny left handed drill bits showed up, drilled out that blasted broken screw in the window, and went around all the windows installing the last 8 inches of schlegle that didn't get covered by the 96" long strips. Well worth doing, cuts down the draft immensely.

One extra 96" strip was about right for my 7 windows. Another window and I would have needed a second
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Old 10-21-2020, 09:52 PM   #786
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Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
Cleaned up what was left of my front banana wraps. The center is OK, the ends are literally disintegrating in places where the plastic is drawn thin, and in multiple pieces held together with tape.

Taped it up into it's correct shape, and put a layer or two of glass on the inside, re-forming the places where there was no plastic at all.

I also got some fiberglass impregnated waterproof bondo for cleanup of the details before painting.

It has been about 10 years since my last fiberglass project, and I quickly remembered why. Not my best talent.

How well does the fiberglass resin stick the banana wrap plastic?
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Old 10-22-2020, 07:27 AM   #787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air345Fly View Post
How well does the fiberglass resin stick the banana wrap plastic?
The banana wraps are ABS, i cleaned them up with scotch brite and lacquer thinner.

Checked this morning and the bond seems very good, I'm not worried about separation
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Old 10-22-2020, 09:43 AM   #788
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Good to hear Rob, I used the MEK slurry process, with the fiberglass, slow way too do it, but looking like it's holding up good. The fiberglass and epoxy will be much faster for sure.
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Old 10-22-2020, 10:00 AM   #789
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Originally Posted by cmadmaxman View Post
Good to hear Rob, I used the MEK slurry process, with the fiberglass, slow way too do it, but looking like it's holding up good. The fiberglass and epoxy will be much faster for sure.
Yes, MEK is a surefire way as well, I used that in my shower pan where I really didn't want leaks.

I might need to do the MEK again to rebuild cracked and broken corners on the spare tire cover. I think if I was to put bondo on the spare tire cover corners it probably wouldn't last long.

The fiberglass adhesion to ABS is good, and since these are just cosmetic fiberglass and bondo will be much faster. Plus I worried the MEK would make the very thin ABS flimsy and lose its shape.
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Old 10-22-2020, 05:35 PM   #790
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Driveshaft ready to go back in, holding off till i finish the rest of the rear end
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Old 10-23-2020, 05:07 PM   #791
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Bondo last night, sanding and cutting tonight, threw a first coat of primer on, makes the trouble spots obvious but it's coming along. I'm just happy that it's in one piece.

The P-30 turn signals from eBay are close but not exactly the right size. I recall having trouble finding even these. Might need to modify the wraps with fiberglass, since I'm here anyway...
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Old 10-24-2020, 01:50 PM   #792
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well shoot, the new springs came with 9/16" ID bushings, but the old bushings are all 5/8" ID. All other dimensions are the same.

So I think the correct part number is RB-129, rather than the included bushings which were RB-136

Anyone know if a hammer is a decent way to swap these or if I should plan on buying beer for my hydraulic press guy?
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Old 10-24-2020, 02:33 PM   #793
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I think you need to buy some beer![emoji106]
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Old 10-24-2020, 02:34 PM   #794
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I found the orginal ones, USA made at mill supply. Housing and lens.
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Old 10-24-2020, 03:41 PM   #795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmadmaxman View Post
I found the orginal ones, USA made at mill supply. Housing and lens.
Brad PMd me and let me know the right part number is GM 916558

Fortunately he's selling me some NOS units he has laying around

Searching online I didn't see that part number on mill supply, is there an alternate number?
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Old 10-24-2020, 03:53 PM   #796
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Mcmaster parts for the bolts that hold in the transverse rod pins, and the right size spring shackle bolts

The washers that were on the transverse rod pins... Well... I think they used to be flat...

They are a weird size. 1-1/8" ID, 3-1/8" OD, 1/8" thick. Can't find them online anywhere. If I had a lathe I'd just make them, but I might just hammer them flat. They shouldn't be seeing torsion loads like that, i think the only reason they did was because the bushings wore out and the bags were flat at the same time.

1 Top-Lock Distorted-Thread Locknut
Zinc-Plated High-Strength Grade C Steel, 5/8"-18 Thread Size
92501A534 1
pack of 25 10.37
pack $10.37
2 Top-Lock Distorted-Thread Locknut
Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Grade C Steel, 1/2"-20 Thread Size
99291A260 1
pack of 10 5.91
pack $5.91
3 Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Hex Head Screw
Grade 8 Steel, 5/8"-18 Thread Size, 5" Long, Partially Threaded
91257A833 4
packs of 1 2.79
pack $11.16
4 Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Hex Head Screw
Grade 8 Steel, 1/2"-20 Thread, 2-1/2" Long, Partially Threaded
91257A750 1
pack of 10 15.02
pack $15.02
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Old 10-24-2020, 05:50 PM   #797
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Ready for paint tomorrow
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Old 10-24-2020, 06:29 PM   #798
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Those washers are what came off the bushings. They will be attached to the new neoprene bushings.
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Old 10-24-2020, 06:39 PM   #799
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Here's my invoice from mill supply for the front parking/turn signal complete assembly. Click image for larger version

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Old 10-24-2020, 08:22 PM   #800
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Those washers are what came off the bushings. They will be attached to the new neoprene bushings.
Doh. Totally overlooked that. Glad you've got a good memory.

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Here's my invoice from mill supply for the front parking/turn signal complete assembly. Attachment 381685
Good find! A couple years ago I searched mill supply high and low and couldn't find them
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