Magnet18's 1983 310

[WayneG]

For a automated method, this is the normal method of hooking up a electric fuel pump and oil pressure switch.

Only problem is that to prime the fuel lines the starter needs to be cranking, at least until the oil pressure trips the switch. It is also intended for the pump to run continuously while the ignition is on.

One nice thing about keeping the electric pump on while running, is if you are low on fuel,sloshing around corners, the electric pump will try and keep the air out of the lines better than the mechanical pump can alone.

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by WayneG

One nice thing about keeping the electric pump on while running, is if you are low on fuel,sloshing around corners, the electric pump will try and keep the air out of the lines better than the mechanical pump can alone.

Thanks Wayne, I hadn't thought of that, I guess there is some value to letting the pump run while driving.

I do like being able to prime the lines without cranking the starter though.

I'll figure something out when I get around to re-doing my dash.

[Magnet18]

Slightly off topic

New top on the toad!
The original one disintegrated as I tried to take it off

Got 2 of those sun shades and folded in half under the top, should work as pockets to store the windows out of the way when they're not installed

Spray paint the fender flares next, then back to the moho

[Vycan]

You have a GMC MH too? AKA E200 urban assault vehicle...

[Magnet18]

Ah yes, the EM50 UAV

Thats my parents, we're keeping the 310 at their place for the time being

Those GMC palm beaches are actually really well engineered, and really high build quality. Over engineered to the point GM would never be able to profit, and hence cancelled. I love my airstream and there are trade-offs, but i would say those are built better.

[Vycan]

Magnet,

I would agree with you.

[Magnet18]

Been busy, not all with the motorhome unfortunately, got the engine out of my truck for a partial rebuild...

The motorhome has gotten a great custom desk, courtesy of the wife!
It just sits on the fold out table for now, detachable legs can be put in the corners if one person was to want to sit in the middle of it, haven't needed to yet though.

She also made a new curtian for the bedroom and kitchen sink window (which I guess i still need to take pictures of)

[Magnet18]

I've driven about 60 miles since the oil mishap, everything seems back to normal, nice and smooth

I did notice one morning after camping that trying to give it gas and get it moving before the engine is up to temp caused it to die under load, probably just normal carburetor stuff I'm not used to, letting it warm up is better anyway

Taking it up to Michigan to the UP for a week next month, lots to do in preparation!

Issues that are at the top of my to-do list:
-The dash AC fan started acting up, need to troubleshoot and probably see about finding a replacement, should do heater fan while I'm in there since it squeaks
-the AC drain is clogged, I'm getting tired of water dripping in the living room because of it, attempts to unclog from the bottom were futile, need to climb up top
-the water in the bed area, is NOT a leak, it's condensation on the fresh tank when it's filled with cold water! (And some overspray out the fill hose) Need to find a solution for that, I'm thinking a small dehumidifier or maybe insulate the tank?
-need to get around to replacing the turn signals
-need to get the temp monitoring setup up and running for the dog during the day
-50A upgrade to run both ACs (not needed before the trip, but sure would be nice

Other issues:
Genset needs a tune-up, did NOT want to run smooth or power anything last time i tried, blew a bunch of carbon. I'm just gonna limp it along until I can replace it with a lithium bank and solar... Someday...

[Magnet18]

Curtian pictures

[Magnet18]

Noticed my new 30A extension cord has a black eye already, even though it's on a 20A breaker

Think I'm about to do a 50A upgrade in the next weekend or 2

[WayneG]

Cheap brass contacts.
Maybe a little electrical grease to keep the corrosion to a minimum, and charring from wrecking your plug?

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by WayneG

Cheap brass contacts.
Maybe a little electrical grease to keep the corrosion to a minimum, and charring from wrecking your plug?

Yea, I was thinking a bit of corrosion causes voltage (power) drop across that contact

The straw that broke the camels back as well, I'm out buying stuff to put a 50A plug in the garage and upgrade the airstream to 50A


I plan to eliminate the xfer switch, run both generator outputs to 2 30A outlets in the current power bay, keep all the current airstream as one 30A plug, and a second 30A plug for the rear AC

Attached is my best guess at the airstreams current wiring (different than brads '84 310)

Also, see my breaker panel pic, any ideas what the 20A "Gen Circuit" breaker is?

The 2 top 20As are the rear AC and the front AC/micro, the 30A is the main coming in from the xfer switch, the 15 goes to the univolt to power the 12 volts (I assume)

But I'm confused about what the 20A gen circuit would do, seems al the bases are covered

(airstream owners manual was lacking)

[mayco]

Hmmmmmmmmm? These 310s came from the factory wired so that the rear air conditioner was powered from the generator only. No circuit in the main panel for the rear air. So it looks like someone has made some mods you'll need to track down, or maybe you already have? The breaker marked "gen" could be for general utility outlets??? Stab in the dark.

Of course trying to run both AC units at the same time with a 30amp main is looking for trouble if they happened to "start" at the same time while running. I added a second shore power cord to run the rear AC on shore power....it also will power additional electric heat when needed.

If indeed the rear AC is now powered through the main panel they had to interrupt that original circuit, running from the generator, somewhere. Probably in a junction box over near the generator compartment. That is where I tied in the second shore power cord.

Mike

[Magnet18]

General is a good idea, guess gen doesn't necessarily mean generator, I'll go stick a paper clip in an outlet and report back

Rear AC does run straight off the generator only, i guess I should say I *assume* the second upper breaker in the main panel is for it. If not I don't know what it would be for.

Just collected all the needed parts to execute the plan, except for the stuff I forgot, we'll see what that is soon enough

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

General is a good idea, guess gen doesn't necessarily mean generator, I'll go stick a paper clip in an outlet and report back

Rear AC does run straight off the generator only, i guess I should say I *assume* the second upper breaker in the main panel is for it. If not I don't know what it would be for.

Just collected all the needed parts to execute the plan, except for the stuff I forgot, we'll see what that is soon enough

your breaker box looks just like the one in my old 310 and you should have a double selector switch to pick which AC you want to run via the factory 30 amp. And yes, the 20 amp gen is for the rear AC .The switch was located to the left of the breaker box with these labels:

[Magnet18]

Nope, the lower 20 amp gen circuit shuts off the plugs in the kitchen, the fridge, and probably the water heater too if i had to guess

And I wish i had an AC selector, but nope, not on mine

[Magnet18]

It seems the top right breaker is a spare, the generator wiring doesn't run into this box, good, simple

I noticed the generator has resettable fuses on the side for it's outputs, one 20a one 30a

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

Nope, the lower 20 amp gen circuit shuts off the plugs in the kitchen, the fridge, and probably the water heater too if i had to guess

And I wish i had an AC selector, but nope, not on mine

I believe I was wrong, the gen circuit probably means "General circuits"
Here is the best picture I have of the switch location. the 310 is a rear twin

[Magnet18]

Junction box to from generator, one goes to roof air, one goes to transfer switch, both disappear into into the wall together

Sideways/red wire nuts to the transfer switch, up to the roof AC

I don't think I can snake wires through the wall like airstream did, probably going to run new conduit underneath

[WayneG]

On my 84 270 (with only one rooftop AC ) We have a switch that selects AC or microwave.
It is piss poor engineering to make a rear AC unit generator only. A 30 amp shore power circuit should handle both, as long as you dont try and start both at the same time.