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Old 12-12-2020, 02:18 PM   #981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post

he stops at nothing..
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Old 12-12-2020, 02:24 PM   #982
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he stops at nothing..
Except gas stations
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Old 12-12-2020, 03:44 PM   #983
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Looking good Rob. You must be going at warp speed!
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Old 12-12-2020, 09:37 PM   #984
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Looking good Rob. You must be going at warp speed!
Thanks!
Definitely faster than I've worked a project before, but I did lose most of this week on account of a 70 hr week at the day job, but getting there.

Finishing the floor trim, this efi install, and the gauges are the only things left on my punch list to hit the road. Might even hit the self imposed jan 1 deadline, but if not the only thing lost is time spent in nicer weather.
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Old 12-12-2020, 10:10 PM   #985
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The leveling valve is a check valve, at least on my dual valve system. The only other check valve needed is typically just at the compressor to prevent back leaking.
get the soap bottle out
The leveling valve is a check valve for the bags. There also wants to be a check valve / unloading valve between the tank and compressor. This keeps the air in the tank and pressure off of the compressor for a no load start. Most compressors provide the check valve and void the warrantee if not installed. Your system probably has a check valve due to the fact that the tank drained when you broke the hose, you are looking at the check valve just not realizing what it is. It's likely the fitting the hose is connected to.
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Old 12-13-2020, 11:36 PM   #986
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Made progress today
Dry fit the new TBI, spent a couple hours chasing vacuum lines and figuring out what is present and what's been yanked, ordered the required accessories (1" spacer so the dual plane intake doesn't mess with the TBI computer, and 15/16 drop base air cleaner, and fuel pump block off, and new PCV breather)

Also got most of the gauge wiring cleaned up and all the new gauges fitted except for trans temp, need to go get a hole saw. Deleted wiring for some no longer used accessories, as for the rest of the wiring back there... Yep, gauges are good enough for now.

And finished POR of the gas tank

And reinstalled the banana wraps

Questions:

1. Any clever ports on the transmission I can borrow for a temp sensor or am I stuck welding a bung into the pan?

2. Between the engine bay and the vac gauge, do any lines run off anywhere or is that line a straight shot? New gauge has a sender, but I can't pull the old line out, nor can I follow the routing, it disappears pretty good. I don't know what it would hook to, aircon is all mechanical cables.

3 i have 2 unidentified red lights on the dash. One between the turn signals next to the high beam, one next to the key. Step and door are labeled and elsewhere, anybody know what the other two do??
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Old 12-14-2020, 12:28 AM   #987
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Didn't get the last one hooked up, but it's 1:30, so I'm calling it a night anyway
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Old 12-14-2020, 11:25 AM   #988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post

1. Any clever ports on the transmission I can borrow for a temp sensor or am I stuck welding a bung into the pan?
Nevermind, ordered the derale vented pan
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Old 12-14-2020, 12:06 PM   #989
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Off topic.....
How is the wood stove working out? Are you still in northern IN?
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Old 12-14-2020, 03:58 PM   #990
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Off topic.....
How is the wood stove working out? Are you still in northern IN?
Hey Mike!

Used the woodstove pretty much daily for the first winter and it worked out great, glass stayed clear, the outdoor part of the chimney is as shiny as the day I put it on, everything very high quality. The most you'll get out of a burn is 4 hours, realistically 2, a bit annoying as a primary source of heat but a heck of a lot of fun.

Used it a couple times last fall but with the airstream inside the barn for the winter I didn't have the chimney routed outside (couldn't think of a reasonable way to do that), we didn't need it as we just used 2 space heaters and stayed warm all winter just fine, but I did miss it.

Still in northern IN for now, both employers have agreed (in my case acquiesced) to us being fully remote and we've both emptied out our in-plant offices, so I'm looking forward to getting on the road in January and using it again! I expect to be in parts of arizona cold enough to use it at night, it's fun to fire up if the night lows are at least 45 or lower and currently it's 30 in Sedona tonight, perfect stove weather.

If I was to do it over I would still get the pipe & kit from the same company for sure, but I might try out the much lighter and somewhat cheaper cubic mini.

As is I can't complain at all about this stove, it's built like a tank and will likely outlive me!
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Old 12-14-2020, 06:45 PM   #991
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Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
A quick test with the finished product, and oh yes, initial impressions exceed all expectations.

The floor of the barn outside is 45
The air outside is 40
The air inside is 70
The floor thermostat is set to 62
The floor where unheated is 62 (the temp sensor is on an unheated section between 2 mats per installation instructions)
The floor where heated is 80

Total power consumption of almost exactly 400 watts (30 ohms, 3.7amps)

This is very pleasant, a creature comfort game changer for sure. 10/10, all future projects must have a heated floor
How has the heated floor been performing? I installed electric radiant under the tile in our home's master bath, and warm toes in the morning are glorious, but I was never sure if it would be a worthwhile addition to an Airstream (because of electric consumption and exposure to cold underneath the belly).

I recently pulled all the carpet from the Diskotrek ('75 Argosy 24) trying to track down an odor (turns out it may be a small gas leak), and since catching this thread, I am considering the electric radiant before installing new flooring. Do you still recommend it? Can you post what product(s) you used (wires or matte, thermostat, etc.)?
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Old 12-14-2020, 10:35 PM   #992
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How has the heated floor been performing? I installed electric radiant under the tile in our home's master bath, and warm toes in the morning are glorious, but I was never sure if it would be a worthwhile addition to an Airstream (because of electric consumption and exposure to cold underneath the belly).

I recently pulled all the carpet from the Diskotrek ('75 Argosy 24) trying to track down an odor (turns out it may be a small gas leak), and since catching this thread, I am considering the electric radiant before installing new flooring. Do you still recommend it? Can you post what product(s) you used (wires or matte, thermostat, etc.)?
It's been fantastic. Wife and I agree, 10/10 second best addition to the airstream after the washer dryer (your use case may vary)

Here is what I used for the 310, ignore the second thermostat, only needed one, the second was returned
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Old 12-15-2020, 01:17 PM   #993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
It's been fantastic. Wife and I agree, 10/10 second best addition to the airstream after the washer dryer (your use case may vary)

Here is what I used for the 310, ignore the second thermostat, only needed one, the second was returned
Perfect! Thanks so much. After looking at a lot of different products online last night, I recognize that "radiant film" as the brand QuietWarmth. You can order it online from Home Depot and Lowes, but they don't stock it. It's also available from a lot of other places on line, and seems to have the advantage over others of being "ultra thin" (the heating elements are actually foil strips embedded in a film instead of thicker wires). They also claim it is more efficient than the wire-type products. That claim seems believable considering the strips cover more surface area than wires would.

I wish you could cut the product and reattach the power wires (you probably could hack it if you really wanted to), but the manufacturer says you can only trim the mats (not use the left over by reattaching power to what has been trimmed).

It also looks like you can only trim for length, not width, so you need to be sure the area in which you are installing it is wide enough for whichever size you buy, and you can't customize for irregularly shaped areas (like the diagonal in front of my mid-bath).

I plan on ordering two 18x60 mats today. That should cover the entire "walkway" run as well as the area in front of the rear bed.

This product is not approved for wet locations, so I am also going to look at combining it with another *wire* type product (made for embedding in mastic or concrete), so I can create a third zone run from the same thermostat to heat the water tanks. I'm not sure if the thermostat you posted has multiple zones, so I'll need to make sure whatever I get has that feature.

Thanks again!
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Old 12-15-2020, 01:38 PM   #994
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Originally Posted by kidjedi View Post
Perfect! Thanks so much. After looking at a lot of different products online last night, I recognize that "radiant film" as the brand QuietWarmth. You can order it online from Home Depot and Lowes, but they don't stock it. It's also available from a lot of other places on line, and seems to have the advantage over others of being "ultra thin" (the heating elements are actually foil strips embedded in a film instead of thicker wires). They also claim it is more efficient than the wire-type products. That claim seems believable considering the strips cover more surface area than wires would.

I wish you could cut the product and reattach the power wires (you probably could hack it if you really wanted to), but the manufacturer says you can only trim the mats (not use the left over by reattaching power to what has been trimmed).

It also looks like you can only trim for length, not width, so you need to be sure the area in which you are installing it is wide enough for whichever size you buy, and you can't customize for irregularly shaped areas (like the diagonal in front of my mid-bath).

I plan on ordering two 18x60 mats today. That should cover the entire "walkway" run as well as the area in front of the rear bed.

This product is not approved for wet locations, so I am also going to look at combining it with another *wire* type product (made for embedding in mastic or concrete), so I can create a third zone run from the same thermostat to heat the water tanks. I'm not sure if the thermostat you posted has multiple zones, so I'll need to make sure whatever I get has that feature.

Thanks again!
I can't speak to efficiency but I went with this because I couldn't find a wire product that the manufacturer would allow under a floating wood floor, and I didn't want carpet.

Yes, you can only trim length

One tip, I would double up the underlayment, both for more insulation, and so you can cut out a deeper recess for the connections. I can tell where they are under the floor, but probably only because i already know where they are.

For the "wet area" outside the shower I ran a thick bead of trempro under the quarter round moulding to prevent water intrusion

And I would just manage the tanks separately, you can buy pads with thermostats built right in for that purpose, a lot simpler.
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Old 12-15-2020, 08:00 PM   #995
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Anybody else find that removing the transmission pan requires removing the cross member?
Just making sure there isn't an obvious out I'm missing
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Old 12-15-2020, 08:20 PM   #996
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Anybody else find that removing the transmission pan requires removing the cross member?
Just making sure there isn't an obvious out I'm missing

Hmmm, not really, unless you drive without Yoke bolt for a while
Yours looks real tight, but just cutting access to reach the bolts should be enough to drop the pan, except the Derale needs a little more room.
These are 310/TH475 pictures
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Old 12-15-2020, 08:33 PM   #997
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Hmmm, not really, unless you drive without Yoke bolt for a while
Yours looks real tight, but just cutting access to reach the bolts should be enough to drop the pan, except the Derale needs a little more room.
These are 310/TH475 pictures

Rob, with other words, start chopping away and try to do it with the crossmember in place. Try to template the space the Derale needs.
The second picture just shows with the flathead screw driver how tight that space is. I had to use 1/4" ratchet to be able to get the smallest socket on there.
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Old 12-15-2020, 10:32 PM   #998
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Could you put a jack under the end of the transmission and raise
it a little bit, just relieve the pressure on the rubber mounts.
This might get you 1/2 inch or more to work with.
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Old 12-15-2020, 10:51 PM   #999
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Thanks Peter! Very helpful.

What I ended up doing was removing the mounting bolts and jacking the whole transmission up an inch or so, got just enough room to squeeze a 1/4" rachet in there to remove, and had to resort to a wrench for the install.

Your grinding work looks cleaner than mine... But I got the job done

That trans temp gauge just looks like it was meant to go there
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Old 12-15-2020, 10:57 PM   #1000
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Post 1000!
Mechanical pump removed
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