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Old 11-07-2020, 10:38 AM   #861
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Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
Pretty impressive, Rob. Hats off for sticking with it and getting it done the right way !
Thanks Peter!
I've never been accused of lacking stubbornness

Playing detective here, these gears look fine to me, and I think based on the tool marks and mismatched bolts, this axle has been serviced before.

Unless someone sees something wrong here, I'm happily going to put it back together and refill.
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Old 11-07-2020, 01:57 PM   #862
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Your heel and toe to drive and coast wear patterns look good. Good full contact wear in pattern.

You can use a gasket or only RTV, both work good if all surfaces are cleaned up good with acetone. I would lean to RTV with a stamped steel cover due to the irregular surface of the cover.

I have been using Mobil 1 75/90 full synthetic.
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Old 11-07-2020, 02:41 PM   #863
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Originally Posted by cmadmaxman View Post
Your heel and toe to drive and coast wear patterns look good. Good full contact wear in pattern.

You can use a gasket or only RTV, both work good if all surfaces are cleaned up good with acetone. I would lean to RTV with a stamped steel cover due to the irregular surface of the cover.

I have been using Mobil 1 75/90 full synthetic.
Thank you for looking! You clearly know better what you're looking at than I do.



Just installed the new valve, drop in replacement
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Old 11-07-2020, 02:44 PM   #864
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I also prefer rtv over gaskets for things like this. Just used permatex for gear-oil.
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Old 11-07-2020, 03:06 PM   #865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
...



Just installed the new valve, drop in replacement

Hey Bubba, consider using teflon tape on the brass to brass fitting. Don't take my word for it, just come by my house and redo the top airbag fittings ( I already did, no worries)
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Old 11-07-2020, 03:27 PM   #866
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Hey Bubba, consider using teflon tape on the brass to brass fitting. Don't take my word for it, just come by my house and redo the top airbag fittings ( I already did, no worries)
Was planning to for the airbag ones. Interestingly, haldex instructions said to not use tape on the fittings, but to use oil or thread locker. Or did they just mean the brass-to-housing ones? I assumed they didn't want tape shreds getting in the valve.

Definitely using tape for the rest!
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Old 11-07-2020, 03:37 PM   #867
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Was planning to for the airbag ones. Interestingly, haldex instructions said to not use tape on the fittings, but to use oil or thread locker. Or did they just mean the brass-to-housing ones? I assumed they didn't want tape shreds getting in the valve.

Definitely using tape for the rest!

Oil and thread locker pretty much do the same as teflon tape, they act like a lubricant. Of course, thread locker also has a different purpose, but thats not what we are discussing. I found that dry brass to brass just locks up prematurely without a 100% seal. I had to redo 1 Top airbag fitting and 1 valve fitting.
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Old 11-07-2020, 04:26 PM   #868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
Was planning to for the airbag ones. Interestingly, haldex instructions said to not use tape on the fittings, but to use oil or thread locker. Or did they just mean the brass-to-housing ones? I assumed they didn't want tape shreds getting in the valve.

Definitely using tape for the rest!
The problem with Teflon tape is that those thin threads that you sometimes
get will float around the system and jam up valves or orifices. If properly
used Teflon tape is great.

With Teflon tape you should never apply it to the last thread of the male
thread of the fitting. Properly applied the last thread should be visible.
Tape that extends beyond the last thread will often get cut off as you
tighten the joint. This results in the threads that will cause problems.
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Old 11-07-2020, 09:47 PM   #869
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Thanks both!

Got the air system back together, went straight forwardly, but time consuming.

I am a little surprised by how much play is still in the transverse rod system. About an eighth inch to the side of the bushings, they aren't exactly snug.
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Old 11-08-2020, 03:55 PM   #870
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Got the drum on, torqued to 80ft lbs. And a lot of painting work today.
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Old 11-08-2020, 03:56 PM   #871
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Old vs new
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Old 11-08-2020, 04:23 PM   #872
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Got the drum on, torqued to 80ft lbs. And a lot of painting work today.

coming along!! Red loctide on the bolt, yes?
Btw, I replaced the drum brake shoes and I was shocked how expensive they were, compared to regular brake shoes. I bet you are getting anxious to take her for a spin.
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Old 11-08-2020, 04:44 PM   #873
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coming along!! Red loctide on the bolt, yes?
Btw, I replaced the drum brake shoes and I was shocked how expensive they were, compared to regular brake shoes. I bet you are getting anxious to take her for a spin.
Yep, even came in the kit with the bolt so it must be important

Very anxious, hasn't been for a real spin in coming up on close to a year.

After this road test, making sure everything still works and I didnt break anything, I have a pile of boxes with everything needed for an EFI install...
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Old 11-09-2020, 06:25 PM   #874
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Hard to photograph shiny metal, but the super misselweld is working out great. Good beads, and no cracking noises as it cools.

I did end up grinding off the ones I did earlier and re-welded, i didn't trust them
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Old 11-09-2020, 06:54 PM   #875
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And done
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Old 11-09-2020, 08:49 PM   #876
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Ready for install tomorrow

Airstream only had one weld bead on the stirrups, I did 3 passes per manufacturers recommendation. They turned out a little bit porous, but I'm feeling fine about them.
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Old 11-09-2020, 09:15 PM   #877
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Great job Rob. Good welding rods make the job much easier.

Also your side to side play on your traverse rod is not an issue, really needed for the angle change on the leaf springs to air spring beam. You just need no slop from pin to pin. Hope that make sense!?
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Old 11-09-2020, 09:24 PM   #878
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On your EFI, are you going with the Holley Sniper?
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Old 11-10-2020, 05:50 AM   #879
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Great job Rob. Good welding rods make the job much easier.

Also your side to side play on your traverse rod is not an issue, really needed for the angle change on the leaf springs to air spring beam. You just need no slop from pin to pin. Hope that make sense!?
Thanks! And yes, perfect sense

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On your EFI, are you going with the Holley Sniper?
I thought long and hard about the sniper, and after loads of research steered away mostly for reliability concerns. I went with the terminator x.

The sniper just had way too many reports of spontaneous ECU failure. It makes sense, you're taking the electronics which are sensitive to heat and vibration, and putting them in the hottest and most heavily vibrating part of the engine bay. When you have an issue you're dead in the water.

The remote mounted ECUs on the rest of their lineup have been around for a long time and have a much better track record for reliability.

The terminator system also leaves an upgrade path to controlling a 4l80e in the future if I ever go that route. I would need to upgrade the ECU but the rest of the system would remain the same. The sniper is incompatible with the 4l80e
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Old 11-10-2020, 08:19 PM   #880
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Drivers side back together, and without even throwing my back out.

I've literally noticed an increase in my deadlift strength just from moving these damn things around
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