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Old 10-26-2020, 09:46 PM   #821
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Thanks for the ideas Dan! That's clever. I'll get it back together and have to see how it sits, if needed I've already got a couple ideas for how to copy that
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Old 10-27-2020, 01:48 AM   #822
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Anytime.
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Old 10-27-2020, 06:16 AM   #823
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Quote:
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The bushings were indeed shot. The problem was after I replaced the bushings the bags had taken a set and didn't want to stand straight. The bags look to be fine with no cracks so after thinking about it the drag link was simple, cheap, much easier than changing bags and might be a modest improvement to the system. That was about 12 years and 80,000 miles ago and I haven't touched it since.

Ok, I got it. So the drag link will actually prolong the useful life of the bushings/pins since the movement is limited to side to side/up and down and not the destructive front to back movement. I wonder if that is the reason for the plate like base that was introduced in the later systems?
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Old 10-27-2020, 07:41 AM   #824
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Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
Ok, I got it. So the drag link will actually prolong the useful life of the bushings/pins since the movement is limited to side to side/up and down and not the destructive front to back movement. I wonder if that is the reason for the plate like base that was introduced in the later systems?
I would think so Peter. One of the drawings I received from ACS has a procedure for how to adjust that plate to get the bags straight up and down. I'll post it shortly
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Old 10-27-2020, 08:36 AM   #825
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This one
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Old 10-27-2020, 12:37 PM   #826
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I think the issue is locating the crossbar under the upper crossmember. The stirrup rides at an angle because of the arch of the spring and that changes from storage sitting on the blocks to ride height. If one were to graph the movement of the stirrup bolt it is probably more than most of us would guess. Allowing the crossbar to float fore and aft while hanging puts all the load on the traverse bushings. The differential moves a lot vertically but very little fore and aft. It's movement both fore and aft and vertically in relation to the crossbar changes very little in all conditions making it a simple and effective anchor point for a drag link.

By the way my memory failed me before. I actually found some old polyurethane rollers from a boat trailer and turned them down for bushings in my drag link ends. Bronze bushings might work but would be too harsh.
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Old 10-27-2020, 12:59 PM   #827
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While I think of it I have seen many here replace air bags and traverse bushings over the years but I don't recall anyone mentioning crooked and bulging bags as the reason. I did the 280 so long ago and nobody seemed to have the problem so I didn't post much about it. Maybe I just missed some posts. Anyway it's out now so I hope it helps.
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Old 10-27-2020, 02:39 PM   #828
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Quote:
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This one

That adjustment .pdf you posted does not apply to our system, or at least not to mine. The upper bracket for the transverse rod is welded to the cross beam, the lower is welded to the spring beam, with no adjusting nuts as shown if Fig 1 in your diagram. The stirrup is hanging on the end of the spring and has no way of changing the spring beam. It would probably best to not torque the spring beam bolts to the stirrup until some load is applied to the spring beam to allow for max self adjustment of the bushing locations.
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Old 10-27-2020, 03:15 PM   #829
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Like Peter said, no adjustment there. With your lower bag supports now, you should be fine. You can put a load on the system before you make the final torque on the saddle to spring straps to make sure they are lined up good under load. You will fine from there.
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Old 10-27-2020, 04:04 PM   #830
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Yep, that adjustment isn't for our systems, but they added it to straighten out the bags. Regardless, I'll get my system put together and hopefully it'll all sit right.
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Old 10-28-2020, 09:37 PM   #831
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Finished painting the spring beam, waiting on bushings which will hopefully show up tomorrow. It would look better with the angles cut to 45s like Chris did, I might still do that but I didn't want to spend the time grinding today.

After a long hard struggle, finally got all 4 nuts off the u bolts... Still having to grind them anyway so I can pound them out. So that's going about as expected.
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Old 10-29-2020, 10:11 PM   #832
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Had the wrong U bolts, correct part is
Leaf Spring U Bolt Kit | Square | Grade 8 | 3/4 x 2-9/16 x 12-1/2
SKU: 361-422
So ordered them again


These are definitely the right leaf springs, got some grinding to do
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Old 10-30-2020, 06:15 AM   #833
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My leaf springs (original) look like they were cut off with an acetylene torch. Less work than grinding!
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Old 10-30-2020, 07:42 AM   #834
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when you reinstall the spring bar, make sure the stirrup bolts go in from the outside and not from the inside, as my diagram shows them.

I had a heck of a time removing one side, since the airbag Rod on the bottom was stuck. I could not get the bolt out with the bag in place and I could get not the bag out with the bolt in place.

I ended up having to double nut the rod again with an impact wrench on the second nut and then fortunately was able to get the rod out
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Old 10-30-2020, 10:53 AM   #835
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Quote:
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My leaf springs (original) look like they were cut off with an acetylene torch. Less work than grinding!
yea, i got about 10 minutes in and decided I'm probably better off saving myself a couple hours and paying a visit to someone I know with a torch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
when you reinstall the spring bar, make sure the stirrup bolts go in from the outside and not from the inside, as my diagram shows them.

I had a heck of a time removing one side, since the airbag Rod on the bottom was stuck. I could not get the bolt out with the bag in place and I could get not the bag out with the bolt in place.

I ended up having to double nut the rod again with an impact wrench on the second nut and then fortunately was able to get the rod out
Good to know, noted, thanks!
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Old 10-30-2020, 11:52 AM   #836
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As I was under there, I noticed where the suspension had been bottoming out and the transverse rod making contact with the cross member. These bags held air until a few months ago, and I never drove with them empty, so I can only assume either the leveling valve is bad or the previous owner forgot to turn the compressor on and took off down the road.

In the interest of doing it right, about to order a leveling valve

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047UORD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OseNFb8J76XS2
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Old 10-30-2020, 02:24 PM   #837
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Do you think it was bottoming out or simply resting there while in storage with no air in the system?

I would also check with somebody on the delay. One of the questions has a response that indicates his refills in about two seconds. Other answers speak of a delay but I would check for sure.
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Old 10-30-2020, 03:11 PM   #838
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Quote:
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Do you think it was bottoming out or simply resting there while in storage with no air in the system?

I would also check with somebody on the delay. One of the questions has a response that indicates his refills in about two seconds. Other answers speak of a delay but I would check for sure.
Based on the big dent, I assumed bottoming out. But it could be from resting while people walk around inside.

I ordered that haldex after confirming that it does indeed have a time delay

https://www.haldex.com/en/na/suspension-controls/height-control-valve/cr-height-control-valve/90054007/

Peter did recommend a Hadley part number he used on tag systems but it was significantly different, ports on top instead of side. I'm sure it would work though, these are all the same principle
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Old 10-30-2020, 03:37 PM   #839
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Based on the big dent, I assumed bottoming out. But it could be from resting while people walk around inside.

...

It tells me that at some time the wrongs bags were installed without the internal stop like the 5412's. Aren't they supposed to stop that kind of contact?
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Old 10-30-2020, 04:01 PM   #840
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It tells me that at some time the wrongs bags were installed without the internal stop like the 5412's. Aren't they supposed to stop that kind of contact?
The firestones I received looked like a perfect match for the ones I pulled out, but if the old ones still had a part number it was long eroded away.

I would imagine they stop that contact quite a bit, but not when hitting a pothole fully loaded at speed or something
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