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Old 04-22-2019, 09:01 AM   #481
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We replaced the front end on our 345 ourselves using super steer parts. The springs were the easy part. If you are doing the ball joints anyhow you already have it all opened up. I did not go back with airbags and just did stiffer springs. I recommend putting airbags back in the mix. I still get a lot of bounce, especially when getting on and off bridges where the pavement dips a bit. I got the wrong ball joints first as I didnít realize I had disk brakes all around(except the electric drums on the tag) and they were the wrong size.
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Old 04-22-2019, 11:45 AM   #482
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We replaced the front end on our 345 ourselves using super steer parts. The springs were the easy part. If you are doing the ball joints anyhow you already have it all opened up. I did not go back with airbags and just did stiffer springs. I recommend putting airbags back in the mix. I still get a lot of bounce, especially when getting on and off bridges where the pavement dips a bit. I got the wrong ball joints first as I didnít realize I had disk brakes all around(except the electric drums on the tag) and they were the wrong size.
Thanks for the input! I'll find some youtube videos on the process.
Dare I ask what the hard part was?

My steering has fortunately all been upgraded to supersteer with the steer-safe and stabilizer. I initially thought about supersteer joints and springs, but they're selling the same moog part numbers for 3x the price!! I'm fine paying for safety, but I'll pass on paying an extra $250 for the exact same ball joints.

I tried to grab the correct ball joints for 4 wheel disk.

I think these are the correct airbags, should be easy enough to install them while installing the new springs, added to my shopping list.
https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/fires...-p30-1963-1999
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Old 04-22-2019, 01:51 PM   #483
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Ball joints. Those bastards sucked...
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Old 04-22-2019, 02:21 PM   #484
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Ball joints. Those bastards sucked...
Using the correct Kent Moore ball joint separator tool really makes it easy to pop the ball joints apart.

I got lucky and found one on ebay for a measly $140.

Brad
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Old 04-22-2019, 03:25 PM   #485
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Yeah. We used a hammer... a big one...
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Old 04-22-2019, 05:58 PM   #486
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Rob, you need a WA92, Snap-On check it out, thatís what I used on the 325LE, and get the Firestone bags, theyíre blue in color. Detailed pictures of the spring replacement on my thread ďItís Never DoneĒ.....do not use an impact gun to tighten the new ball joints ! Regards, Bob
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Old 04-22-2019, 07:38 PM   #487
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Rob, you need a WA92, Snap-On check it out, thatís what I used on the 325LE, and get the Firestone bags, theyíre blue in color. Detailed pictures of the spring replacement on my thread ďItís Never DoneĒ.....do not use an impact gun to tighten the new ball joints ! Regards, Bob
Thanks Bob! Jut put an ebay offer on one. I'll go harbor freight for a lot of things, but I think a spring compressor isn't one of them


Just ordered the firestone 4100 front airbag kit (yep, they're blue)
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Old 04-22-2019, 07:50 PM   #488
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Using the correct Kent Moore ball joint separator tool really makes it easy to pop the ball joints apart.

I got lucky and found one on ebay for a measly $140.

Brad
I've got a generic ball joint puller/pusher set, that won't work? I'm not understanding that tool, it just looks like a long nut on a bolt. Don't see any of those on ebay, or anywhere

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Yeah. We used a hammer... a big one...
Glad to know that's an option!
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Old 04-22-2019, 08:23 PM   #489
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Look up a BJP1, the best, makes removal and installation a SNAP, no pun intended. Plus you wonít screw up the new ball joint installing it. Regards, Bob
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Old 04-22-2019, 08:43 PM   #490
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I saw no opposition to the MOOG ball joints so I just ordered MOOG K6511, K6174, and two bump stops

Now a different discussion, springs...
I was set to order the heavy duty from rock auto at Shepard57s suggestion, they are rated at 3788 pounds

I also just saw cmadmaxman install 5000-5300 pound ratings
those are rated per pair? Or I need to go way heavier?

I've got enough metallurgy background to be dangerous, but none of these manufacturers state why their $300 springs are worth more than the $95 springs. If they've got a different alloy or heat treat I'll buy the quality parts that will last, but if there is no known difference...
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Old 04-22-2019, 08:50 PM   #491
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Look up a BJP1, the best, makes removal and installation a SNAP, no pun intended. Plus you wonít screw up the new ball joint installing it. Regards, Bob
Dang! I believe it's the best, but I've got a cheaper version of it I'll give a try first

Wish I lived close enough to borrow your tools!
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:37 AM   #492
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Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
I've got a generic ball joint puller/pusher set, that won't work? I'm not understanding that tool, it just looks like a long nut on a bolt. Don't see any of those on ebay, or anywhere

Glad to know that's an option!
Rob,

Basically you loosen the nut from the ball joint you want to remove, place this spreader in between the two ball joints and start turning the nut to expand the spreader. The ball joint that is still tight stays in place and the spreader pops the ball joint with the loosened nut free. You then repeat the process for the other ball joint. I don't remember if I tapped the ball joint with a hammer or not. It's actually quite easy to use. You need to make sure you leave the nut on the ball joint because if you don't things are likely to come flying apart!

As far as BJP1 I'd rather save over $500 and use this ball joint installer. Although if you have access to a hydraulic press that's the best and easiest option.

Brad
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Old 04-23-2019, 09:21 AM   #493
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Rob,

Basically you loosen the nut from the ball joint you want to remove, place this spreader in between the two ball joints and start turning the nut to expand the spreader. The ball joint that is still tight stays in place and the spreader pops the ball joint with the loosened nut free. You then repeat the process for the other ball joint. I don't remember if I tapped the ball joint with a hammer or not. It's actually quite easy to use. You need to make sure you leave the nut on the ball joint because if you don't things are likely to come flying apart!

As far as BJP1 I'd rather save over $500 and use this ball joint installer. Although if you have access to a hydraulic press that's the best and easiest option.

Brad
Thanks Brad, I'm sure it'll make more sense when I'm looking at it. (Not that it matters, I don't see any on eBay, but knowing the concept might help if I need to build one)

I think I have that exact install kit

I do have access to a hydraulic press, never needed it for ball joints before though. In my experience putting them in the freezer overnight then quickly installing helps a lot.
Do the A arms come off easy enough on the P30 that the press is an easy option?
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Old 04-23-2019, 10:07 AM   #494
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Thanks Brad, I'm sure it'll make more sense when I'm looking at it. (Not that it matters, I don't see any on eBay, but knowing the concept might help if I need to build one)

I think I have that exact install kit

I do have access to a hydraulic press, never needed it for ball joints before though. In my experience putting them in the freezer overnight then quickly installing helps a lot.
Do the A arms come off easy enough on the P30 that the press is an easy option?
Dang, I just remembered, it's been too long ago now!

I removed the ball joints with the tool shown in the link prior to removing the control arms from the chassis. After that I removed the rest of the suspension components for reconditioning. I then installed the new ball joints using the press before installing the control arms back onto the chassis.

Sorry about the confusion.

Brad
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Old 04-23-2019, 10:22 AM   #495
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Dang, I just remembered, it's been too long ago now!

I removed the ball joints with the tool shown in the link prior to removing the control arms from the chassis. After that I removed the rest of the suspension components for reconditioning. I then installed the new ball joints using the press before installing the control arms back onto the chassis.

Sorry about the confusion.

Brad
No problem, thanks for the info!

How was the rest of the suspension on that rig?
Am I going to have control arm bushings in need of replacement or anything?
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Old 04-23-2019, 10:42 AM   #496
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No problem, thanks for the info!

How was the rest of the suspension on that rig?
Am I going to have control arm bushings in need of replacement or anything?
I replaced the upper and lower control arm shafts. I probably didn't need to but I had the whole suspension apart and figured the price was cheap enough ($60 or $70 for each pair) that it wouldn't hurt to replace them.

If you look at prices for the complete control arm assemblies I think you'll be surprised at just how cheap they are. For mine it would have been around $50 for each control arm and that includes the ball joint, less the shaft.

Brad
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Old 04-23-2019, 11:18 AM   #497
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I replaced the upper and lower control arm shafts. I probably didn't need to but I had the whole suspension apart and figured the price was cheap enough ($60 or $70 for each pair) that it wouldn't hurt to replace them.

If you look at prices for the complete control arm assemblies I think you'll be surprised at just how cheap they are. For mine it would have been around $50 for each control arm and that includes the ball joint, less the shaft.

Brad
Rob,

I forgot to mention, you don't need a spring compressor. John Warden taught me this trick, place the front end on jack stands and then place a floor jack under the end of the control arm. Once the ball joints have been popped free using the Kent Moore separator tool you remove the nut from one of the ball joints and then slowly lower the floor jack until the spring tension is released.

This method also works well if you're just replacing the air bags. It's a lot easier than trying to squeeze that air bag through the small hole in the control arm.

Brad
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:00 PM   #498
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Rob,

I forgot to mention, you don't need a spring compressor. John Warden taught me this trick, place the front end on jack stands and then place a floor jack under the end of the control arm. Once the ball joints have been popped free using the Kent Moore separator tool you remove the nut from one of the ball joints and then slowly lower the floor jack until the spring tension is released.

This method also works well if you're just replacing the air bags. It's a lot easier than trying to squeeze that air bag through the small hole in the control arm.

Brad
Thanks Brad!
I found this video with some great information on the spring replacement that agrees with what you've said
https://youtu.be/QMQG1II-XK8

Guess I'll put the spring compressor money towards heavy duty jackstands
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:13 PM   #499
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So springs... I'm still on the fence between 3 different set's I've seen recommended

-$168 Dayton 350-6560SDM 4289 lbs ea. (SDM = super-duty motorhome, recommended even though the weight rating is theoretically too high on paper, I guess they work well)

-$93 MOOG 6560S 3788 lbs ea.

-$399 SuperSteer SS260 2500-2750 lbs ea. though I still don't understand why they would be worth 4x the MOOGS and 2.5x the Daytons

one way or another I'm ordering something tonight, at the moment leaning towards the Daytons though not for any reason other than they have motorhome in the part number and they're in the middle price wise

Also I can only assume SuperSteer rates based on nominal use, and the others rate based on absolute maximum?
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Old 04-23-2019, 11:27 PM   #500
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Just ordered ACDelco 45H0211 rated to 3789lbs.
Why? Because Amazon had them for $82, they will get here by Friday, and if they don't end up working out I know I can return them no hassle (never try to return things to RockAuto, you'll just end up sad and angry)
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