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Old 09-28-2018, 06:51 AM   #301
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Thanks guys, I figured it was probably a bad wire, haven't given it much thought yet. If it's a broken wire I'll fix it, of not I'm not concerned. I think one more short trip to dump and then she'll be pretty much stationary for the winter.

Over the winter I plan to re-do the dash,
-Paint the faded beige plastic an original grey
-Heater core and fans
-CNC a new faceplate
-Put in new gauges
-New radio head unit and speakers
And fix whatever wiring nightmare is back there. It'll give me something to do when cooped up inside

One option is speedhut for the gauges, customize something old school looking
https://www.speedhut.com/gauges/

This weekend bob recommend classic instruments, which has some very pretty options
https://shop.classicinstruments.com/...fit-gauge-sets

Thanks for your link Wayne, I hadn't seen those guys before, I'll shop around! As you said, they might have some good OEM looking options
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Old 09-28-2018, 02:59 PM   #302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
If it is a 83 454 as in post #1, then the coolant sensor should be in the drivers side of the engine block.
On TBI setups the ECM uses a temp sensor near the radiator thermostat port on the intake manifold.

Yes, if the wire is open or shorted the gauge will read off scale.
If it is a bad gauge, these guys may have something similar to the original.
http://www.custominstrumentpanels.com/

Oooooops, I was thinkin diesel, my bad. Been on the road too long
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Old 09-28-2018, 06:25 PM   #303
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Ok, this is probably just me overthinking everything as I do... but other than turning off the main valve, how do I remove the propane line from the stove without blowing myself up?

Just crack it and let it bleed until the pressure is gone?
Do I put a cap in as soon as I remove it while messing around sliding the old one out and new one in?
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Old 09-28-2018, 06:35 PM   #304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
Ok, this is probably just me overthinking everything as I do... but other than turning off the main valve, how do I remove the propane line from the stove without blowing myself up?

Just crack it and let it bleed until the pressure is gone?
Do I put a cap in as soon as I remove it while messing around sliding the old one out and new one in?

I just took mine out by turning off the main valve and making sure it is tightly closed. Then I lit one of the burners until the flame died out.
I turned off the burner, waited 5-10min and lit it again because sometimes residual propane rebuilds pressure. A third time does not hurt to do.
You still get some residual odor, but much less if you light it off.
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Old 09-28-2018, 06:39 PM   #305
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One good thing to do when working on gas plumbing is to run a fan.
Propane is heavier than air and can collect in confined areas. The
fan stirs it up keeps it from getting within the explosive concentration
range.


Pete.
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Old 09-28-2018, 09:44 PM   #306
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Thanks both!
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Old 09-29-2018, 08:52 AM   #307
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On the Furnace topic, I have some photos of my removal (Still no new furnace to install, still on backorder)
Eventually I will fill in the web page with some text.
http://theouterlimits.ws/projects/ai...e/furnace.html

I am curious if anyone else has a cobbed up a furnace install as this?
It looks like the furnace was installed and then the cabinets and oven around it.

Before it was mine, someone hacked out the cabinet & oven supports to pull the furnace.
Then they put in a 2x4 to prop it up after! What a hack job!

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Old 09-29-2018, 10:20 AM   #308
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Wayne, here is mine. Not hacked up, but I do have a janky wooden support prop in the back holding up the microwave
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Old 09-29-2018, 10:25 AM   #309
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Mine came right out, not having a floor is definitely the key to that. My 1/8" thick floor tiles were almost too much, I had to lift up on the cabinets a bit. It's definitely made to barely slide in with no floor in the way
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Old 09-29-2018, 11:34 AM   #310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
Mine came right out, not having a floor is definitely the key to that. My 1/8" thick floor tiles were almost too much, I had to lift up on the cabinets a bit. It's definitely made to barely slide in with no floor in the way
Yeah, AS didn't leave any extra space for R&Ring the furnace in these puppies.

Re dashboard redo, you realize due to your considerable expertise in all things electronic, up to, and including, building certain grade satellites.....we're hoping for maybe a particle beam weapon hooked up to the AS horn button would be doable; oh, and one tied to the rear back up camera, for those pesky tailgaters.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
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Old 09-29-2018, 11:58 AM   #311
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Tony is back. I hope this means you are feeling better and on the road to recovery.
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Old 09-29-2018, 02:03 PM   #312
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Good to here from ya Tony....back home yet ??? Regards, Bob
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Old 09-29-2018, 06:21 PM   #313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
Yeah, AS didn't leave any extra space for R&Ring the furnace in these puppies.

Re dashboard redo, you realize due to your considerable expertise in all things electronic, up to, and including, building certain grade satellites.....we're hoping for maybe a particle beam weapon hooked up to the AS horn button would be doable; oh, and one tied to the rear back up camera, for those pesky tailgaters.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
Good to hear from you Tony! Hope you're feeling better!

If you provide a particle beam weapon I'll gladly hook it up



I got the new furnace in and working! The chiuauah is pleased.

Didn't give me much trouble but here's the differences.

1. Arrived kinda bent up, suburban could do a better job packaging these. Seemed like cosmetic or easily fixed issues in the outer housing, so i straightened 'em out and pressed on

2. It's just a hair taller, I had to pull up a couple of the vinyl tiles, sit with my back against the fridge, and push it in with my legs. Slid right in then. This is probably just tolerances in the sheet metal.

3. The propane hookup is on the bottom instead of the top, this wasn't toooooo much of a pain, just carefully bent the copper line. Got closer to creasing it than I wanted, but I think I made out OK. Also, hooking up the provided elbow fitting was a PITA, but it worked.

4. The outside vent plate is significantly lower quality, they went from an aluminum casting to just a stamped piece of aluminum. Being an airstream owner, I did the logical thing; drilled out the rivets, moved the tubes to the old vent, and riveted them back on. Had to do a little drilling and cutting, but it worked fine, and looks way better.

5. The vent hose connections are different, just swap over (being thorough)


Other than that, plug and play, ran through the recommended startup sequence, and it's working great for the last hour or so!
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Old 09-29-2018, 06:25 PM   #314
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toasty
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Old 09-29-2018, 06:39 PM   #315
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Nice job! Now you can relax and not worry about an old furnace. You don't want it crapping out in the dead of winter or gassing you in your sleep. I had a couple of original furnaces that had leaks in the heat exchangers and occasionally leaked propane thru the control valve. They took their rightful place on the scrap heap.

Ditto all the comments to Tony. I'll bet you're glad to be rid of all the tubes and drains. They really cramp one's style on restroom missions. Hang in there buddy.
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Old 09-29-2018, 09:51 PM   #316
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Yeah..... the original hydro flame furnaces were death traps in the making..... they knew from the start that there were design flaws in the combustion chamber and they faced many lawsuits.....I guess thatís why they were bought out and no longer in business. The new exterior surburban furnace vent covers suck (chineseium)! The original ones are still available on eBay...about 25-35 bucks, Regards, Bob
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Old 09-29-2018, 10:51 PM   #317
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Thanks! Hopefully it won't gass me out tonight, so far the carbon monoxide and LP detectors have been silent, all seems well.


Smoke detector did go off right after I started it up, but the manual warned about that. Just manufacturing oils smoking off.

I'm not sure I fully trust the exhaust vent seal design. Seems like just a tight fit with some soft (yet not melty) metal in there to seal. But I guess that's how they're all made, so I guess it's nothing to worry about.

Regarding the old unit, i think I know someone who knows someone who rebuilds these things, maybe I'll get a couple bucks for it.
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Old 09-30-2018, 03:23 AM   #318
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Strange that you had to do some sheetmetal work for the exhaust port. I thought they were all the same specs?

Also all the NT-30's I have seen have the gas inlet on the bottom right, never seen one on the top.

One thing you may want to change on your setup, is to add a shutoff valve at the furnace in case it fails and you dont want to turn off the main shutoff. Mine has a right angle valve installed in place of the ell going into the furnace.
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Old 09-30-2018, 07:28 AM   #319
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Quote:
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Strange that you had to do some sheetmetal work for the exhaust port. I thought they were all the same specs?

Also all the NT-30's I have seen have the gas inlet on the bottom right, never seen one on the top.

One thing you may want to change on your setup, is to add a shutoff valve at the furnace in case it fails and you dont want to turn off the main shutoff. Mine has a right angle valve installed in place of the ell going into the furnace.
The sheet metal work was just drilling 2 holes because I was using the new vent tubes on the old vent covers, I think the old vent cover just has the middle two screws a tad lower

My old one definitely had the gas intake on the top right, marked NT30N or something, I can check

I might take the shut-off valve/elbow from my old one and transplant it, now that I know it works. Yesterday I just didn't want any additional variables in case it didn't work
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Old 10-03-2018, 05:45 AM   #320
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My 100' 50A extension cord arrived
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