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Old 11-30-2016, 02:08 PM   #1
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
Camarillo , California
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Looking for 345 dash wire diagram

Does anyone have a wire diagram that would go with a 1988 345 ? I seem to have lost lights in gages, stereo and turn signals. Can't seem to figure out the ignition harness or wire connections.

Thanks

Ripley345
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Old 11-30-2016, 03:04 PM   #2
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Here's a link to a 1986 310 & 345 Service Manual. It should be similar to your 1988. Start looking at page G-14 for dash info.

Hope this helps.

Brad
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Old 12-01-2016, 04:39 AM   #3
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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Just through in a side of connectors and terminal plugs and you are good to go.

Realy I think everyone except for Brad or Bob have come away shaking their heads after looking in that spiderweb under the dash, or it could just be me.
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:24 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by tevake View Post
Just through in a side of connectors and terminal plugs and you are good to go.

Realy I think everyone except for Brad or Bob have come away shaking their heads after looking in that spiderweb under the dash, or it could just be me.
Hehehehehe, X2
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Old 12-01-2016, 01:42 PM   #5
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It has been eleven years now since I set out to replace the blower switch in the dash of my former 280. The nightmares have not stopped even with the aide of very competent therapists. Please do not attempt to start on your dash wiring, there are no diagrams, it was wired at the whim of some very unusual people. Those people were accustomed to building and wiring trailers not motorhomes and I am convinced that their supervisors sent them to the motorhome line as a form of punishment. Use a flashlight when you want to see a gauge, better yet forget you have gauges. If you are persistent in trying to fix the wiring do a search on my dash replacement, which ends with the fire while driving through Chicago.
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:26 PM   #6
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
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I hear you guys.... I think the electrical expert at my local RV shop is the guy (or gal) to take on this challenge. My problems seem to be related to the Ignition switch. But the funny thing is some things get power and some don't... and the "don't s" are winning.
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:44 PM   #7
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Ripley,

Airstream tended to overload the contacts of the ignition switch. They kept connecting more and more circuits to the "ignition" circuit and each one of these additions added to the total amount of current passing through the switch contacts. I'm not saying this is your problem due to the fact that some things seem to be working and others are not.

However the switch is replaceable and not that expensive. Considering the low cost it couldn't hurt to replace the switch more as a preventative measure than anything else. Who knows, it might even solve some or all of your problems

By the way, the same situation is applicable to the headlight switch as well. I've had the contacts melt on a headlight switch before due to the circuit being overloaded. Just FYI.

Brad
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent View Post
It has been eleven years now since I set out to replace the blower switch in the dash of my former 280. The nightmares have not stopped even with the aide of very competent therapists. Please do not attempt to start on your dash wiring, there are no diagrams, it was wired at the whim of some very unusual people. Those people were accustomed to building and wiring trailers not motorhomes and I am convinced that their supervisors sent them to the motorhome line as a form of punishment. Use a flashlight when you want to see a gauge, better yet forget you have gauges. If you are persistent in trying to fix the wiring do a search on my dash replacement, which ends with the fire while driving through Chicago.
Chaplain Kent, I searched for your fire thread and couldn't find it. Any chance you can post a link to it?!

Thanks,

Brad
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Old 12-01-2016, 03:07 PM   #9
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I've been under the dash of my 345 a few times, and when I saw your post the first thing that came to mind was a bowl of spaghetti
Wish I could be of more help.
my educated guess would be the lighting switch or the ignition switch, I replaced both of mine. I believe I had one wire and the lighting switch that was kind of burnt / corroded looking. I also went with LED marker lights to keep the amperage down going through the light switch
You've probably check the obvious but maybe a fuse in one fuse boxes?
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Old 12-01-2016, 03:17 PM   #10
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BKahler, thanks for the link, lots of information in there.
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:39 AM   #11
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"However the switch is replaceable and not that expensive. Considering the low cost it couldn't hurt to replace the switch more as a preventative measure than anything else. Who knows, it might even solve some or all of your problems "

Same with the headlight switch.
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:47 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Ripley345 View Post
I hear you guys.... I think the electrical expert at my local RV shop is the guy (or gal) to take on this challenge. My problems seem to be related to the Ignition switch. But the funny thing is some things get power and some don't... and the "don't s" are winning.
Can you list what items arent working? Ive repaired several items on my dash that werent working, your problems might not be the ignition switch. Depending on what it is, it could be in the headlight sw, a sending unit wire, etc...
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Old 12-02-2016, 07:33 PM   #13
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Agree with Mayco, if you post what's going on, it would help us help you.
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Old 12-03-2016, 04:41 AM   #14
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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The gauge panel of the dash can be unscrewed and tilted outward at the top to get access to the back side of the gauges.

This is the way in, that I used to replace the ignition and headlight switches, in my 345.
I was also able to reconnect some wires that were adrift. Some of the wires were being held in place with globs of hardended putty adhesive at the back of some of the gauges.

It does seem a pretty cobbled together affair in there, but it is possible to make progress even for the electrically challenged. It's hard to mess it up worse than it was originally.

Cheers Richard
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Old 12-03-2016, 08:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tevake View Post
The gauge panel of the dash can be unscrewed and tilted outward at the top to get access to the back side of the gauges.

This is the way in, that I used to replace the ignition and headlight switches, in my 345.
I was also able to reconnect some wires that were adrift. Some of the wires were being held in place with globs of hardended putty adhesive at the back of some of the gauges.

It does seem a pretty cobbled together affair in there, but it is possible to make progress even for the electrically challenged. It's hard to mess it up worse than it was originally.

Cheers Richard
The there are two things to be careful of when accessing behind the instrument cluster. The first is the speedometer cable, if pull too hard you can break the speedometer free from the panel because the cable doesn't have any slack in it.

The second is the heater valve control cable which is even more of an issue. If you pull too hard you can break the mounting tabs off of the heater control module. The only good solution for the heater control module is a replacement unit. I can vouch for both of these issues, I didn't cause the problems I just found what some PO did and had to try and fix them afterwards

Brad
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