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Old 05-09-2018, 11:43 AM   #1
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How much to replace rusted brake lines?

Hey Guys,
I havenít driven the Ole Gal (1986 345 Moho) in almost 2 years. Last time the mechanic went to a lot of trouble to bleed and optimize the brakes so we could get her to Burning Man, but the brake lines were pretty rusty then.

Can anyone hazard a guess as to how much time and money would go into replacing those lines? They already replaced the master cylinder.

Thanks!
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:18 PM   #2
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Jenni,

I would think any competent shop would be able to replace the brake lines in a day without too much trouble. I don't know what shop labor rates are but brake line material might run $100 so the rest would be labor and brake fluid.
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:57 PM   #3
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Thumbs up replacing brake lines

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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Jenni,

I would think any competent shop would be able to replace the brake lines in a day without too much trouble. I don't know what shop labor rates are but brake line material might run $100 so the rest would be labor and brake fluid.
Hey, thanks, that's reassuring. Whenever I talk with the owners of this particular shop, they always sound exhausted and aggrieved, so when I ask for a price, it sounds like it's going to be a mint. My impression is that they don't like working on this coach because of the rust, that, as Californians, they are kind of stumped by it, so they're very hesitant to quote on it because it's intimidating.
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Old 05-09-2018, 01:00 PM   #4
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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Brake Options

I try to fix as much as possible & I've found these folks are very accommodating: http://www.royalbrassandhose.com/brake_hose.html

If you can remove the brake hoses yourself, they can duplicate every rubber brake hose & fitting on your 345 for less than the OE/aftermarket hoses. They replicated Rolls-Royce hoses in stainless braid for $12/hose. They also sell the Copper-nickel tubing, such as Cunifer or NiCopp which is really easy for the novice to work with, forms easily & doesn't rust like steel.

You should flush all the old fluid and specify it be replaced with Castrol LMA Dot 4 brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water), creating problems, especially when your AS sits. Castrol's LMA (Low Moisture Absorption) is the best solution I've found.
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Old 05-09-2018, 01:17 PM   #5
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Question how to replace the brake lines yourself

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Originally Posted by wimpy View Post
I try to fix as much as possible & I've found these folks are very accommodating: http://www.royalbrassandhose.com/brake_hose.html

If you can remove the brake hoses yourself, they can duplicate every rubber brake hose & fitting on your 345 for less than the OE/aftermarket hoses. They replicated Rolls-Royce hoses in stainless braid for $12/hose. They also sell the Copper-nickel tubing, such as Cunifer or NiCopp which is really easy for the novice to work with, forms easily & doesn't rust like steel.

You should flush all the old fluid and specify it be replaced with Castrol LMA Dot 4 brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water), creating problems, especially when your AS sits. Castrol's LMA (Low Moisture Absorption) is the best solution I've found.
Wow. That is so interesting. Neither I nor my husband knew that about brake fluid or hose options you mention. So these are appropriately rated for a rig like ours? Did you do this for a similar rig?

If so, for us, it comes down to: 1) can we get under it without a hoist, and 2) do we even have a place to do that near where it is in Fallon, NV? I doubt I'd drive it home to do it, over the Donner Pass, without a thorough brake inspection and probably repair.

On the other hand, what are the chances I could get a mechanic in Fallon to do what you recommend above? And while we're at it, how much waiting time is there between when you send them in and when you get back the new hoses? I'd have to plan to camp out nearby while I wait. Maybe it would be faster to just have them rebuild the lines.
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Old 05-10-2018, 02:10 PM   #6
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FYI, rubber brake hoses should be replaced after 10 years or sooner based on inspection.

If your 345 is in storage, is it on a concrete pad & do they allow work to be performed so you or your mechanic could perform the work in place.

So these are appropriately rated for a rig like ours? YES! Automotive brake hose pressures are all equivalent, I can't speak to trucks with air brakes (which don't concern us)
Did you do this for a similar rig? Yes, a 13000 lb GVW truck

1) can we get under it without a hoist? Yes, but a suitable bottle jack & jack stands would be necessary to remove the wheels. A suitable array of wrenches, tubing cutter, flaring tool and some mechanical ability. Harbor Freight would have the tools. YouTube has instructions for just about everything.
2) do we even have a place to do that near where it is in Fallon, NV? A search for Hydraulic hose, Fallon, NV should garner results, Sparks has a hoseandfittingsetc.com. These companies don't offer removal, etc. They do fabrication based on what you hand them. On the other hand, the Chavrolet P30 chassis has plenty of availability of parts from Autozone, Advance, NAPA, OReilly so brake hoses could probably be ordered on line from them.

"On the other hand, what are the chances I could get a mechanic in Fallon to do what you recommend above? And while we're at it, how much waiting time is there between when you send them in and when you get back the new hoses? I'd have to plan to camp out nearby while I wait. Maybe it would be faster to just have them rebuild the lines."

Hose fabrication, replicating your OE hoses, could be done in an hour or two at their location. Brake lines, I would not venture a guess, although, 6-8 hrs could be a ballpark number.

Assuming not enough mechanical knowledge, I'd go to my local parts house, ask to speak to someone in the wholesale area, explain the need to replace the brake lines & hoses & ask for the name of an independent mechanic or shop. I'd try to get 2 names from 2 sources and pick the one who seemed to be the most competent. Your prior experience tells me they don't have the capability of getting your 345 up in the air, so anything like brake line repairs requires rolling around on a creeper and/or crawling under the RV.
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Old 05-10-2018, 11:09 PM   #7
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Wow. I donít know where you got the name wimpy but your responses are anything but!

Youíre right, I think your suggestion about going to the local parts house and taking it from there is the way we should go. Itís tremendously helpful to understand now MUCH better what the issues are, thanks so much for this detail!
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Old 05-11-2018, 07:24 AM   #8
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Hey,
I replaced all 5 rubber brake lines on my 325. All available at autozone . It's a P30 frame four wheel disc brakes . Nothing special.
The brake line you can but in a roll. I highly recommend getting the dark green brake line. It painted and very durable. You can get it in 25 or 50 ft lengths. No piecing together 60 inch lengths. Yes you can do this yourself, if you are familiar with cars . You will need to put the ends on them. You'll need a flaring tool kit. It'll take you a day to do it. Replace brake lines from the master back. Everything new. Across the back axle too. I'll do your rake lines if you replace my windsheilds, ha ha. DJ
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Old 05-12-2018, 12:06 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by davejay View Post
highly recommend getting the dark green brake line. It painted and very durable. You can get it in 25 or 50 ft lengths. No piecing together 60 inch lengths. Yes you can do this yourself, if you are familiar with cars . You will need to put the ends on them. You'll need a flaring tool kit. It'll take you a day to do it. Replace brake lines from the master back. Everything new. Across the back axle too. I'll do your rake lines if you replace my windsheilds, ha ha. DJ
The "dark green line" I think is Poly Armor, which is steel. IMHO, you would want the 90-10 Copper-Nickel, it doesn't break down internally like steel, doesn't rust, and is infinitely easier to work with vs steel.
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