Heeeellllpppp!!!!!!

[silverdream2]

I think I mentioned there is no cell service here so I went to town and called Friday Motors. The mechanic there can't travel. He gave me a name of one who could, spoke to him and he said he'd come out after lunch. No one showed. Try again today. I agree the oil issue now has to be dealt with first.

When I was reading the report from the mechanic before I bought it I saw "worn battery cables". In truth they don't look too bad to me, but I'm wondering now. It took three tries after winter storage to get it going... hmmm.

I'll definitely post when I have some real info.... meanwhile thank you for warning me about the oil and all the suggestions.

BTW, one thing that DOES work on this rig is that switch in the glove compartment; got it going once when the engine battery wasn't enough.

[IPM]

If U had a large socket and socket wrench U could try to turn the engine by hand from the front of the engine at the crankshaft. It should turn if not stuck/seized.

If U only have a standard set of sockets, then take the torque converter cover off (between engine and transmission) put a pair of gloves on, and try to roll the torque converter/flex plate, similar to a flywheel, U will see the starter ring gear teeth here.

it is possible to jump start directly to the starter motor with a loose battery and a pair of starter cables. Connect ground - terminal to solid part of engine. connect + to starter motor where U see the big thick cables connect, use a screw driver to short from the big cable terminal to the little wire terminal on starter, sparks will fly if U touch any other part of engine, this will engage the starter and roll the engine, if U want it to run leave the dash ignition in the run position or U will get no spark to the spark plugs, this is not exactly safe to do, maybe best left for the experienced

also, the starter solenoid, located on the starter, easily fails due to age and heat. the solenoid is what U connected to in the above instructions, has the big cables connected

[Keyair]

The Battery Boost switch question was based in the fact that by linking the 3 batteries together, it eliminates a bad battery or connection on the engine battery. Dont get me wrong... I have discovered that just because it worked an hour or a week ago, does not mean its ok now!
But I do think it adds weight to the problem being the starter end of things!

A little story that shows how fickle these things can be...
I had a starting problem on my Alfa last week.. it would either clink or just crank then fail.. I recharged, and then replaced the battery to start with.
If I used a Boost charger or a second battery it would spin ok..
A deeper investigation turned up a broken off connector on the starter, which I repaired... and still no dice!
I was kinda baffled, and was thinking the starter was toast, which is a $350 hit.
I was just getting ready to remove it, and went to pull the battery out, when I noticed the + terminal of the battery seemed odd...
This was the problem...
The battery post was broken and not getting a solid connection!

[vswingfield]

Also, the clamp-on portion on the far right of Keyair's photo (held on by two bolts) is also prone to corrosion where it connects to the cable. It's easy to remember to clean the battery post and the clamp where it attached to the post and be completely unaware of corrosion where the cable connects to the clamp.

Cables with the clamp molded on from the factory are not so prone to this problem, but not completely immune. Battery cables can corrode in places where it's out of sight.

[jking]

I had the exact same thing happen once a looong time ago. Went through all the machinations, used up several days, and finally found the shift lever had been bumped slightly off the "P" detent - not enough to notice or see, but enough to disengage the starter solenoid. Now I always try that first.
Good luck
Jamie

[Keyair]

Originally Posted by jking

I had the exact same thing happen once a looong time ago. Went through all the machinations, used up several days, and finally found the shift lever had been bumped slightly off the "P" detent - not enough to notice or see, but enough to disengage the starter solenoid. Now I always try that first.
Good luck
Jamie

Doh, I forgot about that one!
Or could be the Neutral Safety Switch!
Good job Jamie!

[Boom Sounds]

Have you got an HEI distributor? Might be faulty

[Keyair]

Engine is not cranking at all... so starter related.

[Keyair]

Any news?

[silverdream2]

Well, no news to speak of. It has rained enough that the drought is easing somewhat.

I found a mechanic who came out, looked at the batteries and starter and decided it needed a new starter. He came back with one just as a downpour let loose so he was supposed to return the day after but didn't show.

So I guess I'll call him again (tried yesterday it he doesn't have VM). The darn thing is that I have to travel to make phone calls, not very convenient.

What is the neutral safety switch and where do I find it?

I too had the not in Park situation earlier this year. Boy was I glad that was all it turned out to be.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Not sure exactly where it is on the MH, can be one of two places,(or both).

On the lower portion of the steering column at the linkage or at the connection right on the transmission.
Try holding the key in the start position while moving the shift lever, as the name implies, it should crank in neutral along with park.

Glad your getting wet, one important thing not to worry about.

Good luck!!!

[steveturk]

Hopefully it will start when your mechanic gets the starter installed. If not he should know how to jumper at the starter solenoid. The neutral safety switch is most likely bad if it starts with the jumper wire.

[Gene]

A guy who promises to show up and doesn't is not a guy I call back.

Gene

[GCinSC2]

I have seen starter and alternator test benches at most name brand auto parts store. Testing can be very benifical and may help avoid diagnosis by new part installation trial and error.

[silverdream2]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

A guy who promises to show up and doesn't is not a guy I call back.

Gene

Well, I agree in theory, but have few choices here. Getting it towed scares me, especially from what I have read in the Airstream literature, and then there is needing a place to stay.

If this a simple thing, I would rather have it fixed onsite. This person was recommended by the local Chevy bricks and mortar mechanic who can not travel.

One thing I know... "afternoon" today means early evening. Probably just as it is getting dark.

[Keyair]

How about a little distraction...
Post some pics of where you are!

[Mexray]

Keyair...

That kind of battery cable terminal connector shown in your pic is usually referred to as an 'emergency' terminal...

The cable almost always corrodes in a short time, where it's 'clamped' by the Cad-plated steel strap with two bolts - you have copper wire, lead casting, cad-plated steel, all connected together - a dissimilar metal corrosion problem waiting to happen...

Like I said, an Emergency terminal, meant to 'get you home' so you can install a more permanent connector for the long haul...BUT, human nature being what it is, those things almost never get changed out till they break or corrode...!

I sell lots of em' in my battery shop, and they keep coming back for more! I try to talk customers into installing a nice soldered or HD crimped-on copper terminal, but the added expense deters most - dollar wise and penny foolish, it seems to me - why ask for problems (or being stranded) at the most inopportune time when you could fix it right the first time!

As to the starter problems...just had to fix our fork lift's starter again...it was beginning to 'grind' a bit when engaged, but hey, it would start, so we ignored it - wrong decision, soon it would 'kick-in' strong, but not turn the flywheel (turn over the engine) - could get it to mesh once in a while by rapidly turning the key to the START position, but then wouldn't have enough power to turn over engine...

1. Good battery - hey we have lots of em'!
2. Cables were all in good condition - we supply those too!
3. Starter solenoid seemed in good shape as it would rapidly 'snap' the drive with a good solid 'thunk'!
4. Starter has a new armature, brushes, etc. during the last rebuild about six months earlier...didn't think that would be the problem..
5. that left us with questions about the starter drive, or Bendix as referred to by some - it was being engaged by the solenoid but not turning most of the time, acting as if it had worn parts, etc...

Sure enough - the drive was junk, history, kaput! Had a new drive installed, slapped that starter back in, and it now purrs like a kitten - best ever!

After the oil level issues are corrected, I'd sure take a long hard look at the starter, as I guess you've done by now...especially if the starter was 'abused' somewhat during your attempt to get the rig going after it's last storage - you mentioned three tries to get it started - those starters can easily get overheated and start to self destruct if not left to cool after cranking for a few seconds...

Good luck on your adventures...

[Gene]

How come you haven't contacted the mechanic Lynn Eubank recommended? I don't think Lynn would suggest someone who does not show up. Maybe you are far from Angel Fire—on the other side of Taos— and don't want to call someone there, but the one you have tried is unreliable.

The chances are this is a simple problem and even a mediocre mechanic could fix it in an hour or two if he has a selection of tools, and a new battery, starter and solenoid to try out. New ignition wires and distributer parts would be good too.

Despite all this, I hope you are enjoying New Mexico.

Gene

[eubank]

Gene, I think he's down at Sierra Village, just a couple of miles outside of town. That's still 20-something miles from Angel Fire.


Lynn

[Mike Leary]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Gene

Nice new avatar, Gene. Now if we could click to enlarge our avatars, I'd be nice.