Fuel Issue

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Shinytoaster

Well, Im moving in the same direction.



After multiple (3) doses of Seafoam and getting better compression each time, I then replaced the spark plugs and leads. Progressively sounding at the end of that process.



After reading the notes here I also decided to change out the distributor. I brought it without looking too closely at the old one but after pulling it out noticed a reasonable amount of surface oxidation under the rotor and further down on the shaft. Hopefully the images show that. I'd be interested to hear if it's a similar level of 'fluff or fur' as noted by others.



Anyway the good news was the 1. she started right up (as in I didn't screw up the timing in the process) and 2. both my wife and son immediately said she sounded a LOT smoother running. I also did but thought I might have been wanting improvement so bad I might have been imagining it



So far so good. just need to order new air bags before a trial run. Hopefully there's plenty of Information in the forums to guide that process.



Cheers all -

Pete

Well, yours doesn't look as bad as mine did. You have a considerable amount of rust coating on the outer teeth, but none on the inner teeth.
Still, there needs to be a sharp point on both as they pass each other for an accurate spark timing cylinder by cylinder.
I might also point out that if there is any appreciable wear to the distributor gear, spark timing will be inconsistent. But that is usually at high mileage.

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[Airdelroy]

I didnt get to mine this weekend. Going camping during week this week, so will take the timing light and might get to it. Otherwise will be next weekend.


Aaron

[Airdelroy]

The adventure began early!

The Slug wouldnt start so I must have made something mad in the little poking around with the distributor that I did. So, the distributor had to come out. It was very stuck in there, but after some coaxing it was persuaded to let go.


New distributor went in fine and the Slug fired right up! I did have to replace the vacuum line ($4 a ft!!!) as it was splitting and not enough to turn the distributor.


I must have set the timing a little retarted or I have a vacuum leak as I dont have much power. Will have to put the timing light back on it to see.


Also it wants to run-on after I shut it off. Not sure whats up with that, but I didnt do plugs/wires yet so Ill start with that I guess.


At least Im out camping!


Aaron

[cmadmaxman]

Glad your out camping Aaron

That "run-on" should be a timing issue.
Remember that the vacuum line to the distributor needs to be disconnected and plugged when setting the timing.

[Airdelroy]

Oh! Thats probably it! I didnt find that in the process. Or at least I forgot it already. Let me do it right this time. Thanks!



Aaron

[Shinytoaster]

That, I did not know - thanks.

Originally Posted by cmadmaxman

Glad your out camping Aaron

That "run-on" should be a timing issue.
Remember that the vacuum line to the distributor needs to be disconnected and plugged when setting the timing.

[Airdelroy]

Corrected the timing and it drives like a champ now! Lets hope the distributor was my issue from the start. Will see if I can get it on a long road trip in the near future.


thanks for all the help!
Aaron

[cmadmaxman]

Glad to hear Aaron! Just have to keep after it sometimes![emoji106]

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[LM782]

I’ve watched this and Dean’s (dadstoy) discussions in the background.
I’ve chased a similar problem of lack of power climbing hills and engine hesitating some getting going from a stop. Before storing the Onion for the winter, I thought it might be a vacuum leak (why I was tracking Dean’s progress with his door step).

I got recommendations to replaced the coil and ignition module, which I did before winter storage, but have not checked timing yet.

My ‘85 345 has timing marks underneath, not on top of the crank pulley. Any words of wisdom on how to check timing without melting wires or getting burned on the exhaust (headers)?

Luis

[dadstoy]

Originally Posted by LM782

I’ve watched this and Dean’s (dadstoy) discussions in the background.
I’ve chased a similar problem of lack of power climbing hills and engine hesitating some getting going from a stop. Before storing the Onion for the winter, I thought it might be a vacuum leak (why I was tracking Dean’s progress with his door step).

I got recommendations to replaced the coil and ignition module, which I did before winter storage, but have not checked timing yet.

My ‘85 345 has timing marks underneath, not on top of the crank pulley. Any words of wisdom on how to check timing without melting wires or getting burned on the exhaust (headers)?

Luis

Connect timing light to plug wire 5 instead of #1.

[dadstoy]

Originally Posted by dadstoy

Connect timing light to plug wire 5 instead of #1.

You will be lying on the ground, under the front bumper to check timing. Connect to plug wire #5 from underneath. Connect +/- power cables from underneath and run them up behind the grill to a ground (chassis) and a 12volt source. I connect to the battery isolator. Shouldn't matter if you connect to engine or chassis batt. Just needs a good 12 volt source. It's a little intimidating sticking your head under there with engine running but just stay clear of moving parts!

You probably already know all this, but, yes, check to make sure you have no vacuum leaks and yup that includes the large vacuum hose running to the step and down to the heat riser on the header collector. Disconnect vacuum line at the distributor and plug the line. Distributor timing is critical and it can make all the difference in the world on engine performance.

[Airdelroy]

Exactly what Dean said. I used a bungee to pull up the timing light pickup into the cab from below. Clipping #5 near the distributor. The wire for that ran straight down near the exhaust, but not touching it. The power was just as Dean said, up the front grill.


I did have my wife adjusting the distributor while I yelled directions from down below.


While more difficult than timing a car, the system worked fairly well.


thanks,
Aaron

[LM782]

This is perfect. Thank you. Was wondering where to get 12V and hadn’t thought of the isolator. A bungee cord is a great idea to keep cables off the exhaust. Will do a dry run with everything cold, but that’s still a ways off. Everything is still covered in snow and then there will be 2-3” of saturated soil due to snow melt under the engine bay.

Luis

[2smoker]

Just set the motor on the timing mark, loosen distributor turn ignition on (do NOT start) rotate dizzy till you hear a click or put a loose spark plug (grounded) in #1 wire rotate dizzy till it sparks, it’s the way they did old vw’s
You’ll be turning the distributor from advanced towards retarded to do this.
Oh and don’t get anywhere near the loose plug! HEI will shock the livin c#@p out of you

[Airdelroy]

Made the same journey yesterday without issue. The distributor was definitely my problem.


I have now also changed the plugs, wires, and flushed the coolant. The Slug drove great and even ran cooler than normal. It was sitting around 200 most of the trip and would only run up to 210 on super long hills. Think that happened 2-3 times in the 5 hour trip.



Aaron