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Old 12-06-2009, 05:44 AM   #21
Rivet Master
 
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Jamestown , Kentucky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScrapIrony-2 View Post
A common problem with the 345 is that the cable that changes heating to ac will quit activating from the inside dash slide...it's a hassle, but if you go under the hood, behind the flap on the left(passenger) side is the cable, and you can manually switch from one mode to the other...if you hit overheat times, switching to dash heater will get you further down the road, not cool, but a serviceable remedy...m
scrapIrony, is going to , Heat Mode, helping because you are circulating MORE coolant through the system ???

from reading the above post's ! I do like the idea of wiring the Two fans off a dash switch and running them during the summer months, that does make allot of sense !!!

Thank You for all the good Post's and inputs.

I think flushing the system on a regular basis, every Two years or so ! Regardless of Miles will also extend the life of the cooling system, and make it work even better
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Old 12-06-2009, 06:11 AM   #22
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1984 28' Funeral Coach
Belleview , Florida
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I run a cooler thermostat on Airstream One in part because of the area I travel in. I switch to a higher temp for the winter/spring and then back down in summer. If you're not fuel injected it won't hurt.

I've replaced the original rad with a new one this year and added a big single electric fan up front. I run 180 on the temp gage all the time. Temp will climb when climbing but I'm not going to put that much heat...250 range on my new motor.

I drive gently for fuel economy and can't remember opening the secondaries as it's like flushing a toilet, IMO. I'm never in a hurry. I'm rarely late.

Heat is the enemy, keep yer' cool.
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Old 12-06-2009, 07:59 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScrapIrony-2 View Post
A common problem with the 345 is that the cable that changes heating to ac will quit activating from the inside dash slide...it's a hassle, but if you go under the hood, behind the flap on the left(passenger) side is the cable, and you can manually switch from one mode to the other...if you hit overheat times, switching to dash heater will get you further down the road, not cool, but a serviceable remedy...m
The dash cluster which supports the cable slider is all plastic and has a tendancy to easily break apart. I replaced mine twice and fixed the last one several times. Keep the slidng mechanism, the metal cable core and the heater valve well lubricated. By the way the heater/AC cluster is a Dodge pickup truck part available from Chrysler or an auto junk yard.
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Old 12-06-2009, 10:33 AM   #24
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Cleveland , Tennessee
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I took Howard's advice in post 15. Just took it 1 step further. I used a lighted toggle swich for the fans. The power lead that went to the fans lights up the light in the switch. This serves as a reminder to turn them on if it gets to hot. I figure if the engine will tell me it's getting hot on those days when I'm just sitting back & enjoying the ride.

Ricky
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Old 12-06-2009, 11:06 AM   #25
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Silverton , Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Haggard View Post
scrapIrony, is going to , Heat Mode, helping because you are circulating MORE coolant through the system ???
Yep, same as an old beater...you diffuse some heat by using the extra circulation...not necessarily a pleasant experience, but yer probably already sweating...m
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Old 12-25-2009, 03:24 PM   #26
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Waxahachie , Texas
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I am constantly suprised at what direction the mechanical needs of this Coach are. Since I last posted I installed a Banks Power Pack consisting of a cold air intake and new header typy exhaust system. Made the decision to remove the air pumps etc if for no other reason to make it easier to work on. Drove the beast into town (open headers) to have the exhaust connected at the local muffler shop and then went joy riding!! Amazing power difference. Really pleased. Also the temp guage never got over 200 degrees. The brake light came on and so I went home to find out the master clyinder was leaking. While replacing it I found the water temp sending unit in the drivers side head. It looked really corroded so I also changed it while I had that tire off. The electrical connector was different so I had to splice on one that work with the ned sending unit. My next joy ride the temp guage went to 240 degrees!!! Could the new sending unit be faulty? I am ready to go through the trash to find the old one!!
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Old 12-25-2009, 04:29 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987_345 View Post
I am constantly suprised at what direction the mechanical needs of this Coach are. Since I last posted I installed a Banks Power Pack consisting of a cold air intake and new header typy exhaust system. Made the decision to remove the air pumps etc if for no other reason to make it easier to work on. Drove the beast into town (open headers) to have the exhaust connected at the local muffler shop and then went joy riding!! Amazing power difference. Really pleased. Also the temp guage never got over 200 degrees. The brake light came on and so I went home to find out the master clyinder was leaking. While replacing it I found the water temp sending unit in the drivers side head. It looked really corroded so I also changed it while I had that tire off. The electrical connector was different so I had to splice on one that work with the ned sending unit. My next joy ride the temp guage went to 240 degrees!!! Could the new sending unit be faulty? I am ready to go through the trash to find the old one!!
Hi, first off, if you had to change the connector, this might be your first clue that the new sensor could be incorrect. I'm sure you like the 200 degrees better than the 240 degrees, but that alone doesn't tell you which one is right. You need a non-contact digital thermometer pointed at the thermostat housing or the hot side of the radiator. [tank] Compare this reading with your gauge, give or take a few degrees.
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Old 12-25-2009, 07:21 PM   #28
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FWIW, when I had the temp sending unit replaced on my 84 310, the first one was incorrect and gave high readings. If you have Teleflex gauges (I do) these guys: Home Page should be able to help you determine the correct sending unit.
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Old 12-26-2009, 10:58 AM   #29
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Waxahachie , Texas
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Thanks guys. That's a guud idea. I will get an infrared guage and find out what the actual temp is first, then try and find the correct sending unit.
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Old 12-29-2009, 07:41 AM   #30
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1991 25' Airstream 250
Oxford , Oxfordshire
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We had a problem with an intermittent fan clutch on our 250 Motorhome. We replaced the fan clutch with a Torqflo severe heavy duty unit Fan Clutches

from Autozone for about 60 bucks. We now run at a steady 180. Clutch kicks in if we hit 200 on hills/traffic etc, works a treat and takes us back down to 180 in a couple of minutes.

Note that we replaced upper and lower hoses and fan clutch without removing radiator etc. It really wasn't that difficult although there was two of us. One under passenger wheel arch and the other via the dog house. You can just about reach everything. Be careful not to damage the radiator when you remove the fan.

A friend has the electric fans and is now thinking of switching back to the fan clutch. Some of the forum members kindly shipped the stuff over to the UK for us (we love you guys).

Merry Christmas

Boom Sounds
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Old 12-29-2009, 09:16 PM   #31
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Jamestown , Kentucky
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hello Boom Sounds

would it be an advantage to also chanf the OEM fan to a more efficient one made by yjr link you posted ??? just wondered if you researched, or if some one has been able to improve performance ???? with an aftermarket clutch and new fan ???
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Old 01-02-2010, 05:31 PM   #32
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
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Thanks Boom Sounds,
What is the hottest outside air temperature you could be driving your MH in?
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Old 01-03-2010, 07:20 AM   #33
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Southern France can get over 40 C (that's 105 in your speak). However, it's worth noting that I am in a 1991 250 MH which is significantly lighter than your 345.
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Old 01-03-2010, 07:30 AM   #34
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I did look at the options on the fan clutch. My conclusion was that the Torqflo gave the best bang for the buck. I haven't researched fan clutch plus electric fans (not sure if you have enough room). However, one could conclude than any drop in temp must improve MPG. Over here, the biggest MPG difference can be delivered by a propane conversion which is tried and tested on the 454. You need to rack up quite a few miles to make the payback, but I've seen a 250 run on dual gas and propane and it seems to work well. Peculiarly, it seems easier to fit the extra tank on the short 250 because we have a single exhaust running on one side of the chassis rail......which gives you space on the other side without moving anything around. LPG is half the cost of gas in Europe.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:08 AM   #35
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Hobe Sound , Florida
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Manual fan switch

I generally run at 220 or a bit higher in temps over 85 degrees. The fans are on a manual switch the previous owner installed and I have found that they do not do much when running highway speeds. In slow traffic they are worth their weight in gold. Not sure how to over ride the system, but find someone who can and add a toggle switch to the dash. Mine did not work at time of purchase, so looking at the wiring to the fans, found an inline fuse had blown. When I put on the fans, can tell by a tempory drop in the voltage guage on the dash. My guess the fans are connected to the engine air system that I do not use.
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Old 01-03-2010, 07:03 PM   #36
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Waxahachie , Texas
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Interesting. Would you say that they (fans) were apart of the A?C system or just for helping to sool the engine? I am definately going to put a manual switch on them. They have never came on by themselves.

Boom Sounds. Thanks so much for your help. I have already contacted the fan clutch folks to see if they can recommend a product for me. You have been so helpful..
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Old 03-20-2010, 03:37 PM   #37
Kenneth
 
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Waxahachie , Texas
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Well after our last trip last weekend and the temperature guage reading between 240 and 260 I finally bought an infrared temperature gauge. I found that when the coach gauge reads 220, the infrared reads 170 pointing to the thermostat housing, which is where the temp sending unit is. Now I just need to find a source that match me a sending unit with the guage in the coach
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Old 03-20-2010, 04:09 PM   #38
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1984 31' Airstream310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987_345 View Post
... Now I just need to find a source that match me a sending unit with the guage in the coach
I got mine from these folks: Home Page

The first one I got from NAPA gave really high (inaccurate) readings.
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Old 03-21-2010, 10:17 AM   #39
Kenneth
 
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
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Thanks Guy99. I'll give them a call first thing tomorrow
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Old 03-21-2010, 01:51 PM   #40
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
choctaw , Oklahoma
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oil cooler

As I set here in New Orleans for the last 3 month. This has been my home while I've been volunteering to help rebuild NO.

It you look you can see the air dam and added engine oil cooler under the front bumper I built. I had the transmission cooler in front of it, but couldn't get enough air to keep the tranny cool, so moved it back in front of the radiator. With this setup the clutch fan don't come on very often, which leaves more power to get down the road.
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