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Old 04-22-2017, 06:14 PM   #1
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
Lafayette , Louisiana
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Door latch

My entry door key hole fell out and I have no way to lock the door to our 1988 345 classic from the outside. I am looking for a replacement entry door latch assembly. Any idea of where I can find it?
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:28 AM   #2
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1974 20' Argosy 20
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Jim,

Most likely your entry latch assembly is a Keeler brand which is no longer made. For a while you used to be able to find the tumbler assemblies but the source for those seems to have dried up. Periodically new replacement pull handle and bolt assemblies can be found at places like Vintage Trailer Supply.

Do you have a deadbolt in your coach? You might consider leaving your Keeler door latch assembly in place and just use the deadbolt for security.

If you really do have to replace your existing Keeler latch assembly you'll find other latch assemblies can be retrofitted and made to work. Here's a picture of Martin's Bella that had the Keeler latch replaced with an aftermarket assembly.
Click image for larger version

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My old 310 had a Bargman 300 latch assembly installed to replace a broken Keeler assembly.
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Bargman latches are no longer sold as well but they quite frequently show up on ebay in the $75 to $250 range. I bought a new in the box unit about 6 years ago for $75.

Brad
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:37 AM   #3
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Please take a photo (close up) and describe symptoms. I have information on deadbolt replacement if that is what you are referring to


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Old 04-24-2017, 07:45 PM   #4
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
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So my latch works but I am missing the key hole. Can u see these pics? Any suggestions
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Old 04-24-2017, 07:47 PM   #5
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
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Also my deadbolt works from inside but I don't have the key and my locksmith says I would have to open up the panels on the inside to get to the back of the lock. Click image for larger version

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Old 04-24-2017, 09:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Keaty View Post
Attachment 284069Attachment 284070

So my latch works but I am missing the key hole. Can u see these pics? Any suggestions
Jim, a few months back I bought a keeler latch assembly off of eBay for parts. It has the tumbler assembly but I don't know what condition its in. I'll see if I can get time tomorrow evening to dismantle it to check it out. I'll let you know what I find out.

Brad
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:08 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Jim Keaty View Post
Also my deadbolt works from inside but I don't have the key and my locksmith says I would have to open up the panels on the inside to get to the back of the lock. Attachment 284071
I started a thread several years ago how to access the dead bolt from the inside of a 345. I'll see if I can find the link and post it.

Brad
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:15 PM   #8
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1974 20' Argosy 20
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345 dead bolt access
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:36 PM   #9
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Not sure if this is the right part?

http://www.ervparts.com/hardware/loc...r-and-keys.htm

http://vintagecampers.com/viewpart.php?partID=2602

also this may help if you decide to replace the Keeler.

http://www.odmrv.net/KeelerLock/KeelerLock.php

I know from personal experience that the lock cylinder is a very long one, but my locksmith was somehow able to find another that fit.
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Old 04-25-2017, 06:50 AM   #10
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I have also posted on the deadbolt replacement. I managed to find a replacement schlage lock which fitted ok with minor modification.

You can only fit it from the back. I cut a larger hole in the inner skin. You need to be careful when you take it apart not to drop the mechanism between the skins.

Brad did an excellent post which precisely matched my issue. There is an Airstream modified bolt which you need to retain or get made up.

I think this was the deadlock I purchased;

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/311406925626?_mwBanner=1

However, if you do intend to buy a replacement, you should check and satisfy yourself that it is the correct part. If you search around Airstream supply and out of doors mart, you will find more info.

My lock was clearly marked as a schlage, although Airstream modified it as outlined in brad's post. I think I had to re-use the original rim and slotted the new lock into it. It wasn't a 100% perfect fit, but was good enough.

One supplier told me that it was made by Tri-mark, so models may vary.

Good luck
Nick


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Old 04-25-2017, 07:16 AM   #11
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My deadbolt is a Shlage also. I did remove the inner skin and took the lock in to have keys made. Not that big of a job really. We do not use the key lock in the Keeler assembly, it works but I don't want to risk parts failing. Deadbolt works great.

Jim, you may want to consider purchasing this part for your Keeler lock also.
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...-p/vts-463.htm
It is pretty notorious for breaking and its a good idea to have one on hand. The little "ears" on the slide tend to break leaving you locked out....pretty cheap part to have on board your rig.
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:32 AM   #12
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
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You guys are Awesome! Thanks for the help. I found a Keeler Cylinder on Vintage Trailer supply website but they are out of stock.

So if I want to fix the deadbolt I need to cut the inner skin to get to the back of the Lock? Do you just take a grinder to the skin? How do you minimize the damage and put the skin back?
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:39 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Jim Keaty View Post
You guys are Awesome! Thanks for the help. I found a Keeler Cylinder on Vintage Trailer supply website but they are out of stock.
Did you check out the other links that Tony provided?

Quote:
So if I want to fix the deadbolt I need to cut the inner skin to get to the back of the Lock? Do you just take a grinder to the skin? How do you minimize the damage and put the skin back?
After documenting the 345 deadbolt work I then did the same thing on my old 310. On the 345 I wasn't worried about damaging the skin since I was scrapping the motorhome anyway. On the 310 I think used a razor knife to cut through the skin, it's only about .040" thick. I then made a patch panel to cover the opening on the 310 that was large enough to cover the opening and provide for screw fasteners.

If you need a piece of interior skin to make a cover plate I still have some scrap interior skin from the 345 that I could send you.

Brad
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:57 AM   #14
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Post a picture of the interior area where the thumb turn is for your deadbolt. You mat not have to cut anything depending on where the seam is on your interior skin.
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:14 AM   #15
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Post a picture of the interior area where the thumb turn is for your deadbolt. You mat not have to cut anything depending on where the seam is on your interior skin.
Mike, I don't think there is a seam where the dead bolt is. I was really cursing Airstream when I was working on the 310 deadbolt because the fridge wall is right next to the door so there it was really difficult to work in that area.

I was working on the 310 deadbolt because it was hard to turn and the electric latch mechanism wouldn't work at all. After finally gaining access by cutting the hole I found that when the fridge wall was being installed at the factory they drove a screw right into the raise/lower mechanism for the latch

The only way to fix it was to remove the fridge wall which I was not prepared to do at the time. I was at least able to free it well enough to be able to use the key from the outside to turn the deadbolt, something we had never been able to do before
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:40 AM   #16
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Just goes to show the differences in year to year, coach to coach Brad....after I cut the skin next to the door jamb then drilled out the rivets to access the deadbolt, I found that the section of skin there was just tucked behind the door trim piece and the same on the refrigerator wall...DOH!!!! All I really had to do was drill out some rivets and that section of skin around the thumb turn would have slipped right out without any cutting...but mine is an '82, lots of differences between the 82 and subsequent years. (I felt like a real dummy when I realized I didn't have to cut the skin). Not the last time I'm quite sure!


Mike

(My deadbolt is manual only, no electronics)
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Old 04-25-2017, 10:51 AM   #17
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Just goes to show the differences in year to year, coach to coach Brad....after I cut the skin next to the door jamb then drilled out the rivets to access the deadbolt, I found that the section of skin there was just tucked behind the door trim piece and the same on the refrigerator wall...DOH!!!! All I really had to do was drill out some rivets and that section of skin around the thumb turn would have slipped right out without any cutting...but mine is an '82, lots of differences between the 82 and subsequent years. (I felt like a real dummy when I realized I didn't have to cut the skin). Not the last time I'm quite sure!


Mike

(My deadbolt is manual only, no electronics)
Mike, I think there are probably large differences between the same model that came down the assembly line next to each other

It's almost as if each worker did the job their way and only their way. I guess that's just part of what makes these rigs so interesting
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:28 AM   #18
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Hehehehe "interesting" , yup that's one way to say it!
It is awful cool that you had the opportunity to dismantle one for parts. That experience in itself qualifies you as "AIRSTREAM MOTORHOME GURU", sage, maestro, da man, hehehe, WHETHER YOU LIKE IT OR NOT!

It has taken me a long time to realize that I just can't ASSUME anything with these vehicles. Nothing, nada, zilch...just because someone else has the same model and year MIGHT get you pointed in the right direction but by no means rely on that info for gospel when working on my rig. Thank GOD for the people here on the forum, you in particular, that take the time to post and document your experience. I know Ive said that before but I don't think it can be said too many times...enormous gratitude to you and others. Now that Ive gotten at least a few years of experience with my 310, HOPEFULLY I'm able to give back accurate info to new comers. What goes around comes around. One of these days, on a trip south, I would love to visit you at your shop in hopes that some osmosis will take place. couldn't hurt.
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:05 PM   #19
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Hehehehe "interesting" , yup that's one way to say it!
It is awful cool that you had the opportunity to dismantle one for parts. That experience in itself qualifies you as "AIRSTREAM MOTORHOME GURU", sage, maestro, da man, hehehe, WHETHER YOU LIKE IT OR NOT!
It was definitely interesting dismantling the 345. Learned a lot from it. Unfortunately it was also a heck of a lot of work! As far as being a guru, naa, not me. I forget things as fast as I learn them anymore

Heck the main reason I document my Argosy rebuild the way I do is so I can remember what I did 5 years ago, or sometimes even last week

Quote:
It has taken me a long time to realize that I just can't ASSUME anything with these vehicles. Nothing, nada, zilch...just because someone else has the same model and year MIGHT get you pointed in the right direction but by no means rely on that info for gospel when working on my rig. Thank GOD for the people here on the forum, you in particular, that take the time to post and document your experience. I know Ive said that before but I don't think it can be said too many times...enormous gratitude to you and others. Now that Ive gotten at least a few years of experience with my 310, HOPEFULLY I'm able to give back accurate info to new comers. What goes around comes around. One of these days, on a trip south, I would love to visit you at your shop in hopes that some osmosis will take place. couldn't hurt.
There are definitely a lot of smart knowledgeable people on Airforums who aren't afraid to give advice, provide parts, etc. This definitely makes things easier for everyone
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:24 PM   #20
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...One of these days, on a trip south, I would love to visit you at your shop in hopes that some osmosis will take place. couldn't hurt.
Oh yeah, you're more than welcome to stop by if you're traveling south on I-75 thru Kentucky!

Brad
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