Deja-Vu...or 3rd times the Charm Redux!

[cesalie2]

We’re visiting the grandkids this week and stumbled across a Facebook Marketplace ad for an Onan 6.5 Generator.

Restoration performed by local Onan Dealer and has 4 hours since restore...sounds too good to be true?

A couple of phone calls, some video’s and we’re on our way to Illinois. Upon arrival, physically matches the photos, starts right up and output is good (volts, frequency, ...)

A handshake, a smile and we’re headed home!







[emoji4]

[cesalie2]

Wired the generator output for 50 amps while it was on the trailer, easy access.



Removed 1 fender and slid the generator from the trailer into the compartment



Secured the genny, hooked up fuel lines wiring and battery



Primed the carb and cranked her up...started right up! [emoji4]



Put the genny thru it’s paces, fired up all the appliances for an hour.

Looking forward to our upcoming shakedown cruise!

[cesalie2]

You have to marvel at these wonderful machines!

What started out a a one week shakedown cruise has turned into a 3 month adventure. We met my best friend in Ohio and spent a month in Michigan and explored/experienced the UP.

Our trip was cut short when fell ill and was diagnosed with Stage 4 Lung Cancer. We made our way back to his home town for treatment. Two months of radaction treatment and chemo so far...it’s still touch-n-go ☹️. We may be here until the end of January if he can handle the chemo.

I guess you could say we our living a semi-Fulltime life in our Airstream Classic 310. All of my dear wife’s design ideas have paid off handsomely and we are very comfortable. All systems are functioning as designed.

I miss having a washing machine and don’t enjoy visiting laundromats. No success convincing wife to let me install a Splendide 2100 Washing Machine yet...(still working on her [emoji57]). She is concerned about losing drawer space if I remove the cabinet and install the Splendide.

Due to our extended stay, we have added a few minor mods to add storage and remove some of the clutter on kitchen & bath countertops.

[cesalie2]

Unfortunately, my best friend passed away on Thanksgiving Day 2020. It was tough losing him and I lost interest in the Airstream for a time. His wife sold their motorhome and life went on.

As my health began to decline due to ALS , I started thinking about the Airstream and performing a little preventative maintenance to minimize decay from just sitting…started by changing the oil, filters, transmission fluid. I enjoyed working on the coach and before you know it…the itch to start tinkering again hit pretty hard.

[cesalie2]

Next little project…

* Recored original radiator with 4 row, higher fin count per inch
* Replaced Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses
* Replaced Heater Hoses
* Replaced fuel lines
* Replaced Coolant Overflow Tank
* Replaced original power steering pump
* Original PS Hoses
* Wire brushed and painted Cargo Compartments

[dadstoy]

Originally Posted by cesalie2

Next little project…

* Recored original radiator with 4 row, higher fin count per inch
* Replaced Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses
* Replaced Heater Hoses
* Replaced fuel lines
* Replaced Coolant Overflow Tank
* Replaced original power steering pump
* Original PS Hoses
* Wire brushed and painted Cargo Compartments

That's definitely a good amount of work! I'm wondering if you have the verticle radiator in your '82 like I do? You mentioned you replaced the lower radiator hose. If you do have the vertical radiator, what did you find/do for the lower hose?

Thanks
Dean

[cesalie2]

Originally Posted by dadstoy

That's definitely a good amount of work! I'm wondering if you have the verticle radiator in your '82 like I do? You mentioned you replaced the lower radiator hose. If you do have the vertical radiator, what did you find/do for the lower hose?

Thanks
Dean

Dean,

Added a spacer between 2 hoses and it seems to be working.

Lower Radiator Hose (Gates 20675), a small section of radiator hose, small pipe & some hose clamps.

Radiator - hose clamp - small section of hose - hose clamp- small section of pipe, hose clamp - Gates 20675 Radiator Hose - Hose clamp - Water Pump

I hope this helps.

[cesalie2]

Dean,
Maybe this pic will help clarify my ramblings…

[cesalie2]

Replaced Drive Tires (4 ea)

Toyo M143, 225/70/19.5

[cesalie2]

Added Manual Fuel Pump Block Off Plate
Added Holley 12-803 Fuel Pressure Regulator
Added Fuel Vapor Separator Filter, Part # 33041 Wix

[cesalie2]

Replaced failed 12v thermostatic electric fan
Spal #30102048
16” Pusher Fan 1959 CFM

[cesalie2]

Replaced OEM Alternator with DB Electric 140 Amp Alternator, HO-ADR0336 - 10SI-140 AMP. Used straight edge to determine alignment was slightly off (1/8”). Shimmed alternator forward to align.

[cesalie2]

Today’s project is to replace some of the fuel lines on top of the fuel tank.

Crawled under the coach to locate the gas lines and fuel level sender location. Went topside and determined approximate location. Pried up the glued vinyl plank flooring to access the subfloor. Used a jigsaw (blade set very shallow) to cut out a section of the plywood. Using an oscillating tool, cutout a section of the metal floor.

Now with proper access, replaced the rubber fuel lines.

Note: access panel not very pretty, but effective.

[cesalie2]

Replaced two 12 volt House batteries with Sams Club Golf Cart batteries GC2, 105 Amp Hour.

[pauluptime]

Originally Posted by cesalie2

Today’s project is to replace some of the fuel lines on top of the fuel tank.

Crawled under the coach to locate the gas lines and fuel level sender location. Went topside and determined approximate location. Pried up the glued vinyl plank flooring to access the subfloor. Used a jigsaw (blade set very shallow) to cut out a section of the plywood. Using an oscillating tool, cutout a section of the metal floor.

Now with proper access, replaced the rubber fuel lines.

Note: access panel not very pretty, but effective.

Attachment 441664

Just wondering why you would cut the floor to access it vs. just dropping the tank from below?

I recently dropped the fuel tank in my '87 345 and it was fairly easy. My objective also was to replace all fuel lines and inspect the tank. Curious to see how much corrosion there was on top of the tank, and the frame/floor area above it too. Was relieved to actually find not very much!

Dropping the tank was easier than expected. I'd already emptied it using the 345's electric fuel pump. Made a simple rigging with a remote switch and new temporary hose redirected to jerry cans. Thinking now I'll use that rigging again in the future to prevent sour gas any time it's going to sit longer than 3 months.

The tank has a drain plug on the bottom so that was the first thing I undid. I hit all the bolts the day before with some PB-B'laster and was happy to find nothing rusted or seized.

With an inexpensive motorcycle service jack supporting the tank, undid 3 bolts holding the straps, pretty much just lowered it down then undid the fuel lines on the top and pulled it out.

The sender/line flange gasket and the connections had indeed failed, as suspected from wet drips I noticed earlier from the top off the tank. Hoses were hard but not split, connections were loose and gasket shriveled. Color tagged each hose then just cut them off. I just ordered up new 1/4" and 5/16" fuel lines now. Amazon has some pretty good quality choices made by Continental and I'll be sure to use the best clamps I can. Later, with original parts in hand I'll replace the gasket filler and vent tube too.

Figuring today's ethanol is no friend to yesterday's fuel systems I'll have all fresh NBR fuel hoses to the tank, generator and engine when done. I want no part of leaks whether the unit is traveling or in storage.

Was relieved to peer inside the 85 gallon fuel tank and find its inner walls and baffles still clean and shiny. Only the tank exterior and brackets had some surface rust. Since it's out now, a quick wire brush then Tremclad paint should be all it needs. Expect I'll spray the full underside with some lanolin-based corrosion protection eventually - so before everything's all gooped up with that stuff, trying to get to everything I can under there.

[cesalie2]

Originally Posted by pauluptime

Just wondering why you would cut the floor to access it vs. just dropping the tank from below?

I recently dropped the fuel tank in my '87 345 and it was fairly easy. My objective also was to replace all fuel lines and inspect the tank. Curious to see how much corrosion there was on top of the tank, and the frame/floor area above it too. Was relieved to actually find not very much!

Dropping the tank was easier than expected. I'd already emptied it using the 345's electric fuel pump. Made a simple rigging with a remote switch and new temporary hose redirected to jerry cans. Thinking now I'll use that rigging again in the future to prevent sour gas any time it's going to sit longer than 3 months.

The tank has a drain plug on the bottom so that was the first thing I undid. I hit all the bolts the day before with some PB-B'laster and was happy to find nothing rusted or seized.

With an inexpensive motorcycle service jack supporting the tank, undid 3 bolts holding the straps, pretty much just lowered it down then undid the fuel lines on the top and pulled it out.

The sender/line flange gasket and the connections had indeed failed, as suspected from wet drips I noticed earlier from the top off the tank. Hoses were hard but not split, connections were loose and gasket shriveled. Color tagged each hose then just cut them off. I just ordered up new 1/4" and 5/16" fuel lines now. Amazon has some pretty good quality choices made by Continental and I'll be sure to use the best clamps I can. Later, with original parts in hand I'll replace the gasket filler and vent tube too.

Figuring today's ethanol is no friend to yesterday's fuel systems I'll have all fresh NBR fuel hoses to the tank, generator and engine when done. I want no part of leaks whether the unit is traveling or in storage.

Was relieved to peer inside the 85 gallon fuel tank and find its inner walls and baffles still clean and shiny. Only the tank exterior and brackets had some surface rust. Since it's out now, a quick wire brush then Tremclad paint should be all it needs. Expect I'll spray the full underside with some lanolin-based corrosion protection eventually - so before everything's all gooped up with that stuff, trying to get to everything I can under there.

Very nice & detailed write up to drop the fuel tank, thank you.

I elected to cut a hole in the floor and create an access panel to the top of the fuel tank for future ease of maintenance. I felt it was easier and less strenuous.

[cesalie2]

Todays project entailed stripping the last of the OEM vinyl wallpaper from cockpit side panels.

I thought we removed the OEM Vinyl Wallpaper back in 2020. Removed the vinyl side pockets the previous owner installed back about 2011 and found the vinyl wallpaper underneath.

The Silent Paint Stripper System makes the job much easier.

[cesalie2]

Replacement of the 15 year old converter with a Powermax PM3-55LK.
It has 3 Stage Smart Charging and adjustable power supply modes.
Advertised as being compatible with flooded lead acid, gel, AGM and Lithium.



Replacement was pretty straightforward. Cleaned up some of the wiring while I was working in that compartment in preparation for a future battery shunt and remote inverter switch.

[cesalie2]

Installing a QWork Battery Monitor and Shunt



ANL 200 Amp Fuse between House Battery and Inverter



Used 0 Gauge battery cable between 200 amp fuse and bus bar

Added Remote Switch for the inverter (Frig Cabinet, under Battery Monitor)

[cesalie2]

Installing an replacement HEI Distributor.

Original 42 year old OEM HEI Distibutor. Replaced the ignition module about 4-5 years ago due to an intermittent issue (tach would jump to 4000 rpm for several minutes although the engine rpm didn’t).

I watched several video’s on a new electronic distributor that did not have a manual mechanic advance nor vacuum advance and could be set and monitored via my phone. Progression Ignition HEI Distributor…

https://youtu.be/HeihiAE1zJg?si=LV85kgRn5PXU1V85

Removed the original distributor and followed manufacturers instruction to install the new electronic unit. Set the initial timing to 10 degrees BTDC using cylinder #5. After initial setup and several test drives…the unit just works as advertised.







My initial settings per advice from Progression Ignition:

Idle Timing: 18

Idle Speed: 750 rpm

Max RPM Timing: 36

All in Timing RPM: 3000

Max Vacuum Advance: 12

Start Vacuum Advance at: 80 kpa

Max Vacuum Advance at: 20 kpa

Rev Limit: 5000 rpm

It idles around*650 rpm in park.
You want the bubble to sit right on the idle column (18 degrees) while in Park.