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Old 01-21-2013, 11:19 AM   #901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post

Dean, interesting idea on the shutoff valve. Did the system come that way or is that something that you or your dad installed? I really like the idea and just might do something similar.

Brad
The valve comes with a particular model of the Safe-T-Alert propane/CO detector. The detector controls the valve.
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:16 PM   #902
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Good news on the furnace...

I emailed the vendor this morning and they replied within an hour. They have scheduled the pickup of the damaged unit and will ship a new one tomorrow. Not only do they have the best pricing but that is awesome customer service!
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:17 PM   #903
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I pulled up the carpet in the salon area today and found a small area of the floor behind the passenger seat rotted out. I had suspected that my windshield leak is coming from the front of the awning rail and i think this confirms it.

Any suggestions/advice on repairing this? Does the shell sit on top of the plywood?
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:20 AM   #904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
I pulled up the carpet in the salon area today and found a small area of the floor behind the passenger seat rotted out. I had suspected that my windshield leak is coming from the front of the awning rail and i think this confirms it.

Any suggestions/advice on repairing this? Does the shell sit on top of the plywood?
Dean, it may be time to pull the wall panels and sit there during the next big rain. I have used small funnels and drain tubes around the front seat areas before to manage small persistent leaks. I wouldn't worry too much about the small wood rot. If you fix it and seal it watertight further water intrusion may damage the new carpet/flooring
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:48 AM   #905
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Dean,

See attached PDF that lays out the construction of the floor and walls.

Along with the sketch that I made you'll find that there are a lot of phillips head screws going from aluminum channel into the wood. The red bolt in the sketch is about 2 plus inches long and has a nut and lock washer on the bottom side. On the 345 that I dismantled the wood floor was also fastened to the 1" x 2" tubing grid throughout with 1/4" flathead self tapping screws AND spiral nails. The nails were a real bear to get out. I ended up having to torch the heads of the nails before I could get the wood floor off.

typical-airstream-mh-construction.pdf

The 1" x 2" steel grid is attached to the truck frame with steel rivets. The grid was laid down on top of the truck frame and riveted in place, then the aluminum/galvanized sheet was laid on top of the frame and then the entire shell with the wood floor was laid down on top of the grid and bolted in place along the edges and then screwed and nailed to the 1" x 2" grid. This is how the 345 was constructed so I'm guessing your coach is very similar. It appears that my Argosy is built along these same lines although I'm not sure if it was a single sheet of plywood or sections. I know the 345 is one long piece of wafer board.

I'll try and post some pictures this evening showing how the 345 was constructed.

Hope this helps.

Brad
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:56 PM   #906
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Switches...

I'm replacing some 12v light switches while I have some things apart for the floor repair. Anyone find any new modern switches that they like?
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:51 AM   #907
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Switches...

I'm replacing some 12v light switches while I have some things apart for the floor repair. Anyone find any new modern switches that they like?
Heck, my Argosy just has cheap toggle switches all over the place so just about any switch would look better than that!

You might go to digikey.com and browse through their online catalog. They have a gazillion switches listed.

Brad
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:57 PM   #908
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Quote:
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Very Disappointed - New Furnace is Smashed In...

I purchased a new Suburban NT34SP from an RV company in Texas. It was shipped from some warehouse in So Calif. I just went to open the box and prepare to install it. The entire left front side is smashed in.

I guess I'll cash in my 401k and head down the mountain tomorrow and buy one from CW. ;(
I had the same experience. Suburban 30SP thrown into box like a sack of potatoes. Had dents and probably dangerous. The Company send a replacement right away and a call tag to pick up the damaged unit too.
Perhaps the same Texas Co. (PPL Motorhomes)
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:24 PM   #909
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Localized subfloor repair

On my '83 310 there was a hat-sized rotted place under the driver's side window. It looked a lot like your photo...

We poured a wood hardener (Ace Hardware) liquid onto it and then filled it with fiberglass. Most all the wood in the rest of the coach was quite solid, so we didn't want to do any tear-out.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:56 PM   #910
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Originally Posted by PeterH-87MH View Post

Dean, it may be time to pull the wall panels and sit there during the next big rain. I have used small funnels and drain tubes around the front seat areas before to manage small persistent leaks. I wouldn't worry too much about the small wood rot. If you fix it and seal it watertight further water intrusion may damage the new carpet/flooring
Peter, you may be right about needing to pull the inside panels. We had a mild rain a few nights ago and I'm definitely still leaking in that up front corner. Its leaking too much to let it go.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:57 PM   #911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Dean,

See attached PDF that lays out the construction of the floor and walls.

Along with the sketch that I made you'll find that there are a lot of phillips head screws going from aluminum channel into the wood. The red bolt in the sketch is about 2 plus inches long and has a nut and lock washer on the bottom side. On the 345 that I dismantled the wood floor was also fastened to the 1" x 2" tubing grid throughout with 1/4" flathead self tapping screws AND spiral nails. The nails were a real bear to get out. I ended up having to torch the heads of the nails before I could get the wood floor off.

The 1" x 2" steel grid is attached to the truck frame with steel rivets. The grid was laid down on top of the truck frame and riveted in place, then the aluminum/galvanized sheet was laid on top of the frame and then the entire shell with the wood floor was laid down on top of the grid and bolted in place along the edges and then screwed and nailed to the 1" x 2" grid. This is how the 345 was constructed so I'm guessing your coach is very similar. It appears that my Argosy is built along these same lines although I'm not sure if it was a single sheet of plywood or sections. I know the 345 is one long piece of wafer board.

I'll try and post some pictures this evening showing how the 345 was constructed.

Hope this helps.

Brad
Brad, thanks for the diagram!
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:07 PM   #912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huberto View Post

I had the same experience. Suburban 30SP thrown into box like a sack of potatoes. Had dents and probably dangerous. The Company send a replacement right away and a call tag to pick up the damaged unit too.
Perhaps the same Texas Co. (PPL Motorhomes)
Huberto, yes that's the company. They did come through with no questions asked! They delivered another unit before I was even able to get the smashed one back home and shipped out. It just means another 500 mile round trip for me between home and the mh.
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:21 PM   #913
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Originally Posted by Auretrvr View Post
On my '83 310 there was a hat-sized rotted place under the driver's side window. It looked a lot like your photo...

We poured a wood hardener (Ace Hardware) liquid onto it and then filled it with fiberglass. Most all the wood in the rest of the coach was quite solid, so we didn't want to do any tear-out.
I haven't pulled the carpet from the cab yet and I have my fingers crossed! I'm going to patch in a couple small pieces of plywood. I need to research the wood hardener and some sealer. Every time I ask about such at Home Depot, the look at me like I am completely nuts!
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:40 PM   #914
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Every time I ask about such at Home Depot, the look at me like I am completely nuts!
And your point is....

Sorry, couldn't resist
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:41 PM   #915
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Brad, thanks for the diagram!
Sorry I didn't get any pictures posted. I'll see if I can track some down that show how things are put together and get them posted.

Brad
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:24 PM   #916
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Quote:
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I haven't pulled the carpet from the cab yet and I have my fingers crossed! I'm going to patch in a couple small pieces of plywood. I need to research the wood hardener and some sealer. Every time I ask about such at Home Depot, the look at me like I am completely nuts!
Regarding wood hardner hit up your local marine supply and ask for a product called Gitrot or something equivelant. It will draw moisture out of wood and harden to the point it is difficult to sand it down. I used it plenty on my old wooden trawler and it was amazing stuff.
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:35 AM   #917
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Regarding wood hardner hit up your local marine supply and ask for a product called Gitrot or something equivelant. It will draw moisture out of wood and harden to the point it is difficult to sand it down. I used it plenty on my old wooden trawler and it was amazing stuff.
We have a West Marine down the road...I'll check them out.
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:45 AM   #918
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I pulled the plastic panel off to deal with the rain water leak and gave it is nice paint job. I'm also preparing for a new galley countertop.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:55 PM   #919
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New Galley...

First, I can't believe SF didn't even show up for the game, sad!

I got my galley back together today. New furnace is installed, but still have duct work to do. Furnace is working well however which is nice since we are going from 70 degrees during the day to about 35 at night. Plumbing and wiring in galley are squared away. Countertop and new sink are in and working. I have my much needed soap dispenser!
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:28 AM   #920
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That is one sweet looking galley!
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