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Old 05-14-2012, 08:24 PM   #561
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2005 25' International CCD
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Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
I installed my brake controller, ran some wire and wired up a seven pin connector at the rear. The hitch is welded to C cross member that is attached directly to the main frame rails (no extensions on the frame to hitch like on the longer chassis). I figured I'll be about 2500 lbs. my dad towed a 3000 car for years. I'll let you know if the hitch is still attached after my trip to Coos Bay next month!
Wiring in a brake controller is the final piece of my hitch upgrade. The brake controller for my 345 tag is of the old hydraulic kind. Not sure whether to buy another one of the same from ebay, or go with a newer electronic one, so left it as is to ruminate on. Your install looks neat, any snafus to look out for Dean?
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:35 PM   #562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elbundi

Wiring in a brake controller is the final piece of my hitch upgrade. The brake controller for my 345 tag is of the old hydraulic kind. Not sure whether to buy another one of the same from ebay, or go with a newer electronic one, so left it as is to ruminate on. Your install looks neat, any snafus to look out for Dean?
It's fairly straight forward. The elect controllers have four wires; 12v, ground, brake switch and brake wire. I ran the 12 v and ground up to the firewall and connected 12 v to my engine battery main connection that I have on the firewall and ran the ground to the firewall frame. I connected the brake switch wire to the brake switch at the top of the brake pedal. I used a 12v tester to see which of the two wires on the brake switch was only hot once the brake pedal is pressed. I ran a 12 gauge wire from the blue controller wire all the way back along the frame to the 7 pin connector on the rear bumper. I just routed it along other wiring running to the rear and secured with lots of zip ties (I use lots of them). Then I ran a 12 gauge wire from the engine battery under the entry door to the 7 pin connector on the rear bumper.

The MH was originally wired with a round five pin connector. These are now obsolete. I also had a flat four pin connector at the rear bumper, but it was not wired as a standard four pin connector. The four pin was wired for the Honda my dad towed. I believe the Honda requires four wires for tail, turn and brake lights where as most American cars and trailer use a three wire system. The standard four and seven pin connector wiring is very standard and straight forward. I cut off the old four pin connector and wrapped up those wires so they would not ground out on anything. I cut off the obsolete five pin connector and used a 12v tester to see which wire was activated when turning on left and right turn signals and tail lights. The blue wire on the seven pin connector is wired to the brake wire I ran from the controller. The black on the connector is wired to the 12 volt wire I ran from the engine battery (with a automatic resettable fuse). The white on the connector is wired to the frame.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:50 PM   #563
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I also worked on making all the turn signals and running lights work correctly. A couple were wired very strangely and I think that was to make the turn, tail and brake lights work on the Honda my dad towed. For example, the right lower ramming light blinked when the left turn signal was turned on. The outer tail light also was intermittent with a bad socket, so I replaced the can with one of the extras I have. It's nice to have all the lights working correctly...at least for now!
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:57 PM   #564
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I'm really hoping I fixed my rain leak. I've laid the bath tile
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:52 AM   #565
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Looking GOOD Dean!

If anyone plans to do any electrical work, I cannot speak highly enough of the PowerProbe 3 I bought last year.
It has earned its $100 price tag 5 times over since December, and I have not even used it on the Airstream yet!
It connects to the battery, and the probe tells you as soon as you touch anything, whether its live or earth, with a LED and Tone... That way, also with its 20'+ of cable, as will often be the case, you can hear it too, if you are say wiggling wires or turning on switches at the other end of the rig.
After that, by way of the rocker switch on the handle, you can supply power or earth to the componant.
I too have some odd wiring on my rear marker lamps... some work with the LED's and some won't and as you know LED's are polarity sensative, so I assume thats the prob. The Powerprobe will get that figured out in a moment!
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:30 PM   #566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair
Looking GOOD Dean!

If anyone plans to do any electrical work, I cannot speak highly enough of the PowerProbe 3 I bought last year.
It has earned its $100 price tag 5 times over since December, and I have not even used it on the Airstream yet!
It connects to the battery, and the probe tells you as soon as you touch anything, whether its live or earth, with a LED and Tone... That way, also with its 20'+ of cable, as will often be the case, you can hear it too, if you are say wiggling wires or turning on switches at the other end of the rig.
After that, by way of the rocker switch on the handle, you can supply power or earth to the componant.
I too have some odd wiring on my rear marker lamps... some work with the LED's and some won't and as you know LED's are polarity sensative, so I assume thats the prob. The Powerprobe will get that figured out in a moment!
Thanks Steve.

I would love to have the PowerProbe.
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Old 05-16-2012, 03:07 AM   #567
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A common problem with retrofitting is that newer toads have in-line diodes that block the old wiring signals...we all know I'm not into cosmetics, so I use the standard flat four wire and magnetic taillights...had them for 6 years, had to replace the connection once when SOMEONE didn't connect them and the toad kinda just ran over the wire and removed a significant length...they will scratch the surface of the trunk, over time, but there I go with "So what?"...it's a '95 Nissan...I'm a '48 model, myself, and I have quite a few scratches, too...and, no, any offers to polish me will be denied...
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:10 AM   #568
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Originally Posted by ScrapIrony-2
A common problem with retrofitting is that newer toads have in-line diodes that block the old wiring signals...we all know I'm not into cosmetics, so I use the standard flat four wire and magnetic taillights...had them for 6 years, had to replace the connection once when SOMEONE didn't connect them and the toad kinda just ran over the wire and removed a significant length...they will scratch the surface of the trunk, over time, but there I go with "So what?"...it's a '95 Nissan...I'm a '48 model, myself, and I have quite a few scratches, too...and, no, any offers to polish me will be denied...
I definately think that is the way to go.
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:07 AM   #569
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You want to polish Mike? LOL
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:34 PM   #570
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You want to polish Mike? LOL
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:00 PM   #571
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.I'm a '48 model, myself, and I have quite a few scratches, too...and, no, any offers to polish me will be...
I thought this might be what dadstoy was referring to when he said that would be the way togo
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:57 PM   #572
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you really shouldn't polish panache, no matter how scratched I am...m
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:50 PM   #573
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A/C wiring diagram for my '82

I'm trying to figure out why the connection to 3M on the resistor when the fan switch is on high?
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:56 PM   #574
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I see 1, 3, and 4 on high. I think you forget that 3 is connected to the resister since 4 connects direct to the fan motor. The switch just adds 3 because of the internal configuration of the poles on the switch. I may have 3or 4 reversed
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:28 PM   #575
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I grouted the bath tile and installed the bedroom carpet today. I still have some trim work to do.
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:33 PM   #576
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I see 1, 3, and 4 on high. I think you forget that 3 is connected to the resister since 4 connects direct to the fan motor. The switch just adds 3 because of the internal configuration of the poles on the switch. I may have 3or 4 reversed
After the ac runs for about 15 min, the fan slows down to a slow speed. If I stop for awhile and then start up again, the fan goes back to high for another 15 min. I'm trying to figure this one out!
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:56 PM   #577
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I would jump the blower motor direct. See if it will run more than 15 min that way. If does then the motor is fine I use a power probe II to perform test like this. The PP tool plugs into a cigar lighter socket or has clips to connect direct to the battery. When you touch the tip to a wire it will tell you if it is hot or ground. There is a switch you can press and it will send 12volts to the tip to energize the circuit direct. There is a meter that will read the voltage to the tip as well. You may need to reproduce the fault and read the voltage at the motor. This tool will check the motor or switch or resistor. It can only be one of those. I would be interested in how you solve this. Please write back.
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:40 AM   #578
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It's time to paint the rest of the dash...hopefully the paint only goes where it belongs!
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:16 PM   #579
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It's time to paint the rest of the dash...hopefully the paint only goes where it belongs!
What did you use to prep the dash and what sort of paint are you using?
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Old 05-24-2012, 04:48 PM   #580
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What did you use to prep the dash and what sort of paint are you using?
I'm using the Dupli-color paints...the prep spray, the adhesion promoter and the vinyl paint...spray cans.
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